Author of the description: Anna Sadovskaya
We invite you to knit a gentle and airy girl, Chamomile. From a thin thread the girl turns out to be very tiny, but if you take thicker yarn, the doll will be taller.
Dear English-speaking friends! Free pattern in English in my group on the Facebook
For knitting you will need:
- For the body Pekhorka “Lacy” (100% mercerized cotton, 280 m/50 g) – a little flesh color No. 068, a little white, yellow and green for clothes, hook 1.25 mm.
- For hair Kamtex “Karakul stretch” (44% wool, 44% acrylic, 10% cotton, 2% lycra, 145 m/100 g) – a little white.
- For the Vita cotton “Coco” flower (100% mercerized cotton, 240 m/50 g) – 10 g white and a little green, 1.5 mm hook. For the middle “Kuzya Klubochkin” from Color City or any other similar thread, for example, Alize “Softy”, Lanoso “Puf”, etc., 6 mm hook. For stability, you will need some kind of weight, something flat and quite heavy, no more than 4 cm in diameter, I used coins, which I placed between two circles cut out of thick plastic. The pupa is attached to the flower using an elastic thread (spandex), just a little is needed.
- Filler (holofiber).
- Copper wire with a cross-section of 1 mm for the frame of the pupa (65 cm) and beading wire with a diameter of 0.3 mm for the frame of the flower petals.
- Eyes 5 mm, eyelashes, a little white felt.
- If desired, dry pastel for tinting; you can tint in any other way you are familiar with.
When using these materials, the doll is 14 cm tall
You can ask any questions regarding the description on our forum
Abbreviations
sc– single crochet
dec– decrease (2 sc knit together)
pr– increase (knit 2 sc from one)
ss– connecting post
VP- air loop
psn– half double crochet
PRpsn– increase from hdc (knit 2 hdc from one)
UBpsn– decrease from hdc (knit 2 hdc together)
s1n– single crochet
s2n– double crochet stitch
The toy is knitted in a spiral, without connecting posts and lifting loops.
The description of knitting this toy is based on the fact that the beginning of the row does not shift throughout the knitting of the entire piece and runs in an even line, but since we knit in a spiral, without lifting loops and a connecting post, the beginning of the row will shift to the right, therefore every 4- 5 rows need to be knitted at the end of the row with an additional offset stitch so that the beginning of the row is again in the same place. These additional columns are not taken into account in the description of the rows.
Thanks to this way of presenting the description, you will always know exactly where your increases or decreases should be, and your elbow/knee will always end up exactly where they should be. The offset of the beginning of a row when knitting in a spiral can differ for different yarns and at different knitting densities, so the alignment of the marker makes the description universal - from any yarn, in any hands, you will get exactly the part that it should be.
Crochet handles
The beginning of the row marker runs along the middle of the outside of the arm.
2nd row: (inc, sc) x 3 (9)
3rd row: 9 sc (9)
4th row: s2n, 8 sbn (9) – when knitting the first sbn after s2n, the double crochet stitch is folded in half, forming a bump - a thumb.
5th row: (sc, dec) x 3 (6)
6th row: 6 sc (6)
Row 7: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)
Rows 8-15 (8 rows): 8 sc (8)
Row 16: 3 sc, inc x 2, 3 sc (10)
Rows 17-22 (6 rows): 10 sc (10)
For the left handle we knit another 1 sc, for the right - 6 sc. We fasten the thread and cut it.
We measure 12 cm of wire with a cross-section of 1 mm, bend one end, and wrap it with adhesive tape. We insert it into the handle. We fill the handle with filler in the upper part.
Crochet legs
The beginning of the row marker runs through the middle inside legs.
We begin to knit with white thread.
1st row: ch 4, from the 2nd loop from the hook: inc, sc, 4 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: sc, inc (10)
2nd row: inc, 3 sc, inc x 2, 3 sc, inc (14)
3-4 rows (2 rows): 14 sc (14)
5 row: (dec, 5 sc) x 2 (12)
6th row: 12 sc (12)
RIGHT LEG OF THE PUPA
Row 7: sc, ch 4, skip 4 sc, 7 sc (12)
Row 8 (we knit the heel): dec x 6 (first sc along the foot, then 4 sc along the chain and 7 sc at the foot)
We attach the thread to the post between the heel and foot on the side of the marker and knit the LEG:
1st row: sc in the space between the heel and foot, 4 sc in the foot, sc in the gap between the foot and heel, 4 sc in the chain of the 7th row (10)
4th row: 7 sc, inc x 2, sc (12)
11th row (behind the back wall of the loop): 2 sc, inc x 2, 6 sc (12)
Row 12: 9 sc, inc x 2, sc (14)
Row 13: 14 sc (14)
1st row: (sc, inc) x 5 (15)
2nd row: (ch, ss) x 15
Row 14: 2 sc, dec x 2, 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc (14)
15-21 rows (7 rows): 14 sc (14)>
We fasten the thread and cut it. Stuff the leg with filler.
LEFT LEG OF THE PUPPE
Row 7: 7 sc, ch 4, skip 4 sc, sc (12)
8th row (we knit the heel): dec x 6 (7 sbn along the foot, then 4 sbn along the chain and sbn along the foot)
We fasten the thread, cut it, and tighten the remaining hole.
We attach the thread to the 4th chain loop of the 7th row and knit a LEG:
1st row: 4 sbn along the chain of the 7th row, sbn in the space between the heel and foot, 4 sbn along the foot, sbn in the space between the foot and heel (10)
2-3 rows (2 rows): 10 sc (10)
4th row: sc, inc x 2, 7 sc (12)
We measure 20 cm of wire with a cross-section of 1 mm, bend one end to the shape of the foot, and wrap it with adhesive tape. We insert it into the leg. Stuff the leg with filler.
5-9 rows (5 rows): 12 sc (12)
10 row: 2 sbn, dec, 4 sbn, dec, 2 sbn (10)
Change the thread to a flesh thread, do not cut the white thread yet.
11th row (behind the back wall of the loop): 6 sc, inc x 2, 2 sc (12)
Row 12: sc, inc x 2, 9 sc (14)
Row 13: 14 sc (14)
Turn the knitting leg away from you and use the remaining white thread to tie the golf shirt around the front half-loops of the 10th row:
1st row: (sc, inc) x 5 (15)
2nd row: (ch, ss) x 15
We fasten the thread, cut it, hide the tip. Fold the collar down. Stuff the leg with filler. We continue to knit the leg:
Row 14: inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, dec x 2, 2 sc (14)
Rows 15-21 (7 rows): 14 sc (14)
Stuff the leg with filler. We do not cut the thread, we continue knitting, connecting the legs into the BODY:
Row 22: ch 2, 14 sc along the right leg, sc along the chain, place a marker for the beginning of the row here, now the beginning of the row will be here (middle of the back), align the marker during the knitting process.
23rd row: sc along the chain, (13 sc, inc) along the left leg, 2 sc along the chain, inc, 12 sc, inc, sc (35)
We connect the wires from the legs together and wrap them with adhesive tape.
24 row: sbn, inc, 12 sbn, inc, 4 sbn, inc, 15 sbn (38)
Rows 25-32 (8 rows): 38 sc (38)
33rd row: 15 sbn, dec, 4 sbn, dec, 15 sbn (36)
Rows 34-35 (2 rows): 36 sc (36)
Row 36: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)
Rows 37-45 (9 rows): 30 sc (30)
We stuff the body with filler.
46 row: 5 sbn, 4 sbn together with the left handle (count 4 sbn from the last column of the handle and start knitting from the 4th column), 12 sbn, 4 sbn together with the right handle (count 4 sbn from the last column of the handle and start tying from the 4th column), 5 sc (30)
Row 47: 5 sbn, 6 sbn along the free loops of the left handle, 12 sbn, 6 sbn along the free loops of the right handle, 5 sbn (34)
We connect the wires from the handles with the wires from the legs and wrap them with adhesive tape. All 4 wires will go to the neck and then to the head.
Rows 48-49 (2 rows): 34 sc (34)
Row 50: 22 sbn, dec, 3 sbn, dec, 5 sbn (32)
51 row: 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 3, sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, sc (25)
Row 52: sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, 2 sc, dec, sc, 3 sc together, sc, dec, sc (17)
We stuff the body with filler.
Row 53: sbn, dec, sbn, 3 sbn together, (2 sbn, dec) x 2, 2 sbn (12)
Row 54: 2 sc, dec, 8 sc (11)
Row 55: 11 sc (11)
We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for sewing to the head.
We knit the doll's head
The beginning of the row marker runs along the middle of the back of the head.
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (6)
2nd row: inc x 6 (12)
3rd row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)
5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
9-15 rows (7 rows): 48 sc (48)
16th row: 15 sbn, dec, 2 sbn, dec, 6 sbn, dec, 2 sbn, dec, 15 sbn (44)
Rows 17-20 (4 rows): 44 sc (44)
21 row: 13 sbn, (inc, sbn) x 2, inc, 8 sbn, inc, (sbn, inc) x 2, 13 sbn (50)
22-24 rows (3 rows): 50 sc (50)
Now we will attach the doll's hair. The principle of hair attachment is shown on the head of another doll.
We wrap the Karakul stretch yarn from Kamtex on a book, notepad, sheet of cardboard or any other suitable template and cut it (the length of the cut thread is at your discretion - what length of hair you want to get).
We attach the hair as follows: insert the hook from the inside of the head into the beginning of the knitting (amigurumi ring) and bring it out, pick up the “hair” folded in half in the middle and bring the loop inside the head. We step back the required gap and stick the hook into the next column, again pick up the “hair” and bring it inside the head, drag it through the loop on the hook. Next, we proceed in the same way, picking up new “hairs” and pulling them inside the head, forming a chain of loops on the wrong side of the head. Each time we tighten the previous strand so that all the loops of the chain lie as close to the head as possible.
We fasten the hair up to the 8th row inclusive, starting from the beginning of knitting, each time skipping one row and one column. Keep in mind that with this method of attaching hair, the hair turns out to be quite thick.
Using any contrasting thread, we mark the location of the hair, taking into account that the marker for the beginning of the row passes through the middle of the back of the head.
We continue to fasten the hair inside this contour, skipping 2 columns and 3 rows. At the border of the contour, we attach the hair through 1 column and through 1 row. At the end, we secure the last loop on the hook by stitching it with sewing thread.
We continue knitting the head.
25 row: 3 sc, dec, 8 sc, (dec, sc) x 2, dec, 8 sc, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, 8 sc, dec, 3 sc (42)
Row 26: 42 sc (42)
Row 27: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
28 row: 2 sbn, dec, (4 sbn, dec) x 5, 2 sbn (30)
Row 29: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Row 30: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, sc (18)
We fill the head with filler.
31st row: (sc, dec) x 5, dec x 2 (grab the sc of the next row)
We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for embroidering the nose.
Decoration of the doll's face
My face design is just one of the options; you can design this doll in your own way.
We embroider the outline of the ear with a chain stitch using flesh-colored thread. Without tearing off the thread, we knit 1 row of sc along the contour, for the right ear we start knitting from the bottom, for the left - from the top.
Using the thread left after knitting the head, we embroider the nose. We visually determine the middle of the face and draw the thread between the 20th and 21st rows one column to the right of this middle. We retreat two columns to the left and make several stitches, forming a nose. The stitches lie freely, we do not tighten anything.
We cut out squirrels from felt in the form of circles, slightly larger in diameter than the eyes used. Glue the dolls to the head (the eyes are located between the 17th and 20th rows of the head). Glue on the eyelashes (I took the shortest eyelashes I had and even trimmed them a little). We embroider the mouth and eyebrows. You can slightly redden your cheeks using any tinting method that is familiar to you.
We knit shoes for amigurumi
We knit with a thread of the same thickness that was used to knit the doll itself.
1st row: 5 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (12)
2nd row: inc, 3 sc, PRdc x 4, 3 sc, inc (18)
3rd row: sbn, inc, 5 sbn, PRdsn x 4, 5 sbn, inc, sbn (24)
4th row (behind the back wall of the loop): 8 sc, 8 hdc, 8 sc (24)
5 row: 8 sbn, 8 hdc, 8 sbn (24)
6th row: 6 sbn, dec, hdc, UBpsn, 2 hdcs, UBpsn, hdc, dec, 4 sbn, dec (19)
7th row: dec, 7 sbn, dec, 8 sbn (17)
We fasten the thread and cut it. We change the hook to a smaller one (I took 1 mm) and with a thread of the finishing color we tie the shoe with one row of crab step for the remaining half-loops of the 3rd row. We fasten the thread, cut it, hide all the ends. We knit the second shoe in the same way.
We knit a sundress for amigurumi
We knit with a thread of the same thickness that was used to knit the doll itself. We start with yellow.
We cast on 32 ch, close it in a circle with a connecting column.
Rows 1-8 (8 rows): 32 sc (32)
Row 9 (behind the front wall of the loop): (ch, ss) x 32
We attach a white thread to the first column of the 8th row and knit using the remaining half-loops:
10 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc, inc (39)
11th row (behind the front wall of the loop): ss, (14 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 13 sc, further along the dress: 3 ss) x 12, 14 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 13 sc, 2 ss
Row 12 (we tie the petals): (miss ss, ss, ss, 9 hdc, 2 sb, ch 2, 2 ss, 9 hdc, ss, ss, ss skip, ss) x 13
Row 13 (for the left half loops): (3 dc along the dress, ch 18, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc) x 13
Row 14 (we tie the petals): ((miss ss, ss) x 2, sbn, 13 hdc, 2 sbn, 2 ch, 2 sbn, 13 hdc, sbn, ss) x 13
We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for sewing the petals.
The petals on the skirt will curl up, so we need to stitch them. Having retreated a few loops from the top of the skirt, we alternately pick up the upper and lower petals, connecting them to each other.
We secure the thread by slightly pulling the petals.
We attach a yellow thread to the 11th loop of the chain of the first row of the dress and knit FRONT:
1st row: dec, 8 sc, dec (10)
We cut the thread, re-attach it to the 1st column of the 1st row of the front and knit the 2nd row:
2nd row: dec, 6 sc, dec (8)
We fasten the thread and cut it.
We knit STRAPS: we attach the thread to one edge of the front and cast on a chain of 13 ch, with a connecting stitch we attach the chain to the back of the sundress, we knit another 1 dc along the back and return to the beginning of the chain, knitting 13 sc, we fasten the strap to the front of the dress. We knit the second strap in the same way. We tie the neck and armholes of the sundress as follows: (ch, ss) x in each column. We hide all the ends of the threads.
We put a sundress on the doll.
We bend the ends of the wire protruding from the body so that the resulting loop reaches at least the middle of the head, and preferably almost to the back of the head. If necessary, cut off the excess wire. Wrap the loop with adhesive tape. We hide all the threads inside the head and sew the head to the body.
Decorating an amigurumi doll
I knitted the middle of the chamomile from “Kuzya Klubochkin” from Color City, crocheted 6 mm:
1st row: 2 ch, in the first loop: 6 sc (6)
2nd row: inc x 6 (12)
Change the thread to “Soso” Vita cotton, hook 1.5 mm
3rd row: (5 sc in one column) x 12 (60)
In the next row, we begin to knit the upper tier of petals, knitting bead wire. To do this, knit the required amount air loops, apply a wire folded in half. We knit the first column, grabbing only one wire (inserting the hook between two wires). We knit the second and then all the columns to the end of the chain, grabbing both wires.
We do not cut the wire, we knit it directly from the spool, each time trying on the length of the section folded in half along the chain of ch, and at the end of the row we cut the wire. We tie wire into the lower tier of petals in the same way.
4th row (behind the front wall of the loop, we tie the wire): ss, (18 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc, further in the middle: 3 ss) x 19, 18 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc, 2 ss
Row 5 (we tie the petals): (miss ss, ss, ss, 13 hdc, 2 ss, 2 ch, 2 ss, 13 hdc, ss, ss, ss skip, ss) x 20
6th row (for the left half loops, we tie the wire): (3 ss in the middle, 22 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 21 sc) x 20
Row 7 (we tie the petals): ((miss ss, ss) x 2, sbn, 17 hdc, 2 sbn, 2 ch, 2 sbn, 17 hdc, sbn, ss) x 20
We fasten the thread and cut it. We wrap the ends of the wire with adhesive tape. We thread two pieces of spandex into the middle, securing them with knots on the wrong side. The resulting loops will hold our doll on the flower.
We knit the lower part of the flower in green.
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (6)
2nd row: inc x 6 (12)
3rd row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)
4th row: sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)
5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
6th row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)
Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
8th row: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)
Row 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)
10th row: 54 sc (54)
11th row: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60)
Row 12: 60 sc (60)
13th row (behind the front wall of the loop): (sc, (hdc, s1n, hdc) x in one column, sc) x 20
We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for sewing to the flower. Sew to the daisy using the remaining half loops. You need to put some kind of weighting material inside. I didn’t have anything suitable, so I put in the coins, taping them with adhesive tape to two circles of thick plastic.
BackAuthor of the description: Anna Sadovskaya
We invite you to knit a gentle and airy girl, Chamomile. From a thin thread the girl turns out to be very tiny, but if you take thicker yarn, the doll will be taller.
Dear English-speaking friends! Free pattern in English in my group on the Facebook
For knitting you will need:
- For the body Pekhorka “Lacy” (100% mercerized cotton, 280 m/50 g) – a little flesh color No. 068, a little white, yellow and green for clothes, hook 1.25 mm.
- For hair Kamtex “Karakul stretch” (44% wool, 44% acrylic, 10% cotton, 2% lycra, 145 m/100 g) – a little white.
- For the Vita cotton “Coco” flower (100% mercerized cotton, 240 m/50 g) – 10 g white and a little green, 1.5 mm hook. For the middle “Kuzya Klubochkin” from Color City or any other similar thread, for example, Alize “Softy”, Lanoso “Puf”, etc., 6 mm hook. For stability, you will need some kind of weight, something flat and quite heavy, no more than 4 cm in diameter, I used coins, which I placed between two circles cut out of thick plastic. The pupa is attached to the flower using an elastic thread (spandex), just a little is needed.
- Filler (holofiber).
- Copper wire with a cross-section of 1 mm for the frame of the pupa (65 cm) and beading wire with a diameter of 0.3 mm for the frame of the flower petals.
- Eyes 5 mm, eyelashes, a little white felt.
- If desired, dry pastel for tinting; you can tint in any other way you are familiar with.
When using these materials, the doll is 14 cm tall
You can ask any questions regarding the description on our forum
Abbreviations
sc– single crochet
dec– decrease (2 sc knit together)
pr– increase (knit 2 sc from one)
ss– connecting post
VP- air loop
psn– half double crochet
PRpsn– increase from hdc (knit 2 hdc from one)
UBpsn– decrease from hdc (knit 2 hdc together)
s1n– single crochet
s2n– double crochet stitch
The toy is knitted in a spiral, without connecting posts and lifting loops.
The description of knitting this toy is based on the fact that the beginning of the row does not shift throughout the knitting of the entire piece and runs in an even line, but since we knit in a spiral, without lifting loops and a connecting post, the beginning of the row will shift to the right, therefore every 4- 5 rows need to be knitted at the end of the row with an additional offset stitch so that the beginning of the row is again in the same place. These additional columns are not taken into account in the description of the rows.
Thanks to this way of presenting the description, you will always know exactly where your increases or decreases should be, and your elbow/knee will always end up exactly where they should be. The offset of the beginning of a row when knitting in a spiral can differ for different yarns and at different knitting densities, so the alignment of the marker makes the description universal - from any yarn, in any hands, you will get exactly the part that it should be.
Crochet handles
The beginning of the row marker runs along the middle of the outside of the arm.
2nd row: (inc, sc) x 3 (9)
3rd row: 9 sc (9)
4th row: s2n, 8 sbn (9) – when knitting the first sbn after s2n, the double crochet stitch is folded in half, forming a bump - a thumb.
5th row: (sc, dec) x 3 (6)
6th row: 6 sc (6)
Row 7: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)
Rows 8-15 (8 rows): 8 sc (8)
Row 16: 3 sc, inc x 2, 3 sc (10)
Rows 17-22 (6 rows): 10 sc (10)
For the left handle we knit another 1 sc, for the right - 6 sc. We fasten the thread and cut it.
We measure 12 cm of wire with a cross-section of 1 mm, bend one end, and wrap it with adhesive tape. We insert it into the handle. We fill the handle with filler in the upper part.
Crochet legs
The beginning of the row marker runs along the middle of the inside of the leg.
We begin to knit with white thread.
1st row: ch 4, from the 2nd loop from the hook: inc, sc, 4 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: sc, inc (10)
2nd row: inc, 3 sc, inc x 2, 3 sc, inc (14)
3-4 rows (2 rows): 14 sc (14)
5 row: (dec, 5 sc) x 2 (12)
6th row: 12 sc (12)
RIGHT LEG OF THE PUPA
Row 7: sc, ch 4, skip 4 sc, 7 sc (12)
Row 8 (we knit the heel): dec x 6 (first sc along the foot, then 4 sc along the chain and 7 sc at the foot)
We attach the thread to the post between the heel and foot on the side of the marker and knit the LEG:
1st row: sc in the space between the heel and foot, 4 sc in the foot, sc in the gap between the foot and heel, 4 sc in the chain of the 7th row (10)
4th row: 7 sc, inc x 2, sc (12)
11th row (behind the back wall of the loop): 2 sc, inc x 2, 6 sc (12)
Row 12: 9 sc, inc x 2, sc (14)
Row 13: 14 sc (14)
1st row: (sc, inc) x 5 (15)
2nd row: (ch, ss) x 15
Row 14: 2 sc, dec x 2, 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc (14)
15-21 rows (7 rows): 14 sc (14)>
We fasten the thread and cut it. Stuff the leg with filler.
LEFT LEG OF THE PUPPE
Row 7: 7 sc, ch 4, skip 4 sc, sc (12)
8th row (we knit the heel): dec x 6 (7 sbn along the foot, then 4 sbn along the chain and sbn along the foot)
We fasten the thread, cut it, and tighten the remaining hole.
We attach the thread to the 4th chain loop of the 7th row and knit a LEG:
1st row: 4 sbn along the chain of the 7th row, sbn in the space between the heel and foot, 4 sbn along the foot, sbn in the space between the foot and heel (10)
2-3 rows (2 rows): 10 sc (10)
4th row: sc, inc x 2, 7 sc (12)
We measure 20 cm of wire with a cross-section of 1 mm, bend one end to the shape of the foot, and wrap it with adhesive tape. We insert it into the leg. Stuff the leg with filler.
5-9 rows (5 rows): 12 sc (12)
10 row: 2 sbn, dec, 4 sbn, dec, 2 sbn (10)
Change the thread to a flesh thread, do not cut the white thread yet.
11th row (behind the back wall of the loop): 6 sc, inc x 2, 2 sc (12)
Row 12: sc, inc x 2, 9 sc (14)
Row 13: 14 sc (14)
Turn the knitting leg away from you and use the remaining white thread to tie the golf shirt around the front half-loops of the 10th row:
1st row: (sc, inc) x 5 (15)
2nd row: (ch, ss) x 15
We fasten the thread, cut it, hide the tip. Fold the collar down. Stuff the leg with filler. We continue to knit the leg:
Row 14: inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, dec x 2, 2 sc (14)
Rows 15-21 (7 rows): 14 sc (14)
Stuff the leg with filler. We do not cut the thread, we continue knitting, connecting the legs into the BODY:
Row 22: ch 2, 14 sc along the right leg, sc along the chain, place a marker for the beginning of the row here, now the beginning of the row will be here (middle of the back), align the marker during the knitting process.
23rd row: sc along the chain, (13 sc, inc) along the left leg, 2 sc along the chain, inc, 12 sc, inc, sc (35)
We connect the wires from the legs together and wrap them with adhesive tape.
24 row: sbn, inc, 12 sbn, inc, 4 sbn, inc, 15 sbn (38)
Rows 25-32 (8 rows): 38 sc (38)
33rd row: 15 sbn, dec, 4 sbn, dec, 15 sbn (36)
Rows 34-35 (2 rows): 36 sc (36)
Row 36: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)
Rows 37-45 (9 rows): 30 sc (30)
We stuff the body with filler.
46 row: 5 sbn, 4 sbn together with the left handle (count 4 sbn from the last column of the handle and start knitting from the 4th column), 12 sbn, 4 sbn together with the right handle (count 4 sbn from the last column of the handle and start tying from the 4th column), 5 sc (30)
Row 47: 5 sbn, 6 sbn along the free loops of the left handle, 12 sbn, 6 sbn along the free loops of the right handle, 5 sbn (34)
We connect the wires from the handles with the wires from the legs and wrap them with adhesive tape. All 4 wires will go to the neck and then to the head.
Rows 48-49 (2 rows): 34 sc (34)
Row 50: 22 sbn, dec, 3 sbn, dec, 5 sbn (32)
51 row: 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 3, sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, sc (25)
Row 52: sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, 2 sc, dec, sc, 3 sc together, sc, dec, sc (17)
We stuff the body with filler.
Row 53: sbn, dec, sbn, 3 sbn together, (2 sbn, dec) x 2, 2 sbn (12)
Row 54: 2 sc, dec, 8 sc (11)
Row 55: 11 sc (11)
We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for sewing to the head.
We knit the doll's head
The beginning of the row marker runs along the middle of the back of the head.
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (6)
2nd row: inc x 6 (12)
3rd row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)
5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
9-15 rows (7 rows): 48 sc (48)
16th row: 15 sbn, dec, 2 sbn, dec, 6 sbn, dec, 2 sbn, dec, 15 sbn (44)
Rows 17-20 (4 rows): 44 sc (44)
21 row: 13 sbn, (inc, sbn) x 2, inc, 8 sbn, inc, (sbn, inc) x 2, 13 sbn (50)
22-24 rows (3 rows): 50 sc (50)
Now we will attach the doll's hair. The principle of hair attachment is shown on the head of another doll.
We wrap the Karakul stretch yarn from Kamtex on a book, notepad, sheet of cardboard or any other suitable template and cut it (the length of the cut thread is at your discretion - what length of hair you want to get).
We attach the hair as follows: insert the hook from the inside of the head into the beginning of the knitting (amigurumi ring) and bring it out, pick up the “hair” folded in half in the middle and bring the loop inside the head. We step back the required gap and stick the hook into the next column, again pick up the “hair” and bring it inside the head, drag it through the loop on the hook. Next, we proceed in the same way, picking up new “hairs” and pulling them inside the head, forming a chain of loops on the wrong side of the head. Each time we tighten the previous strand so that all the loops of the chain lie as close to the head as possible.
We fasten the hair up to the 8th row inclusive, starting from the beginning of knitting, each time skipping one row and one column. Keep in mind that with this method of attaching hair, the hair turns out to be quite thick.
Using any contrasting thread, we mark the location of the hair, taking into account that the marker for the beginning of the row passes through the middle of the back of the head.
We continue to fasten the hair inside this contour, skipping 2 columns and 3 rows. At the border of the contour, we attach the hair through 1 column and through 1 row. At the end, we secure the last loop on the hook by stitching it with sewing thread.
We continue knitting the head.
25 row: 3 sc, dec, 8 sc, (dec, sc) x 2, dec, 8 sc, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, 8 sc, dec, 3 sc (42)
Row 26: 42 sc (42)
Row 27: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
28 row: 2 sbn, dec, (4 sbn, dec) x 5, 2 sbn (30)
Row 29: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Row 30: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, sc (18)
We fill the head with filler.
31st row: (sc, dec) x 5, dec x 2 (grab the sc of the next row)
We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for embroidering the nose.
Decoration of the doll's face
My face design is just one of the options; you can design this doll in your own way.
We embroider the outline of the ear with a chain stitch using flesh-colored thread. Without tearing off the thread, we knit 1 row of sc along the contour, for the right ear we start knitting from the bottom, for the left - from the top.
Using the thread left after knitting the head, we embroider the nose. We visually determine the middle of the face and draw the thread between the 20th and 21st rows one column to the right of this middle. We retreat two columns to the left and make several stitches, forming a nose. The stitches lie freely, we do not tighten anything.
We cut out squirrels from felt in the form of circles, slightly larger in diameter than the eyes used. Glue the dolls to the head (the eyes are located between the 17th and 20th rows of the head). Glue on the eyelashes (I took the shortest eyelashes I had and even trimmed them a little). We embroider the mouth and eyebrows. You can slightly redden your cheeks using any tinting method that is familiar to you.
We knit shoes for amigurumi
We knit with a thread of the same thickness that was used to knit the doll itself.
1st row: 5 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (12)
2nd row: inc, 3 sc, PRdc x 4, 3 sc, inc (18)
3rd row: sbn, inc, 5 sbn, PRdsn x 4, 5 sbn, inc, sbn (24)
4th row (behind the back wall of the loop): 8 sc, 8 hdc, 8 sc (24)
5 row: 8 sbn, 8 hdc, 8 sbn (24)
6th row: 6 sbn, dec, hdc, UBpsn, 2 hdcs, UBpsn, hdc, dec, 4 sbn, dec (19)
7th row: dec, 7 sbn, dec, 8 sbn (17)
We fasten the thread and cut it. We change the hook to a smaller one (I took 1 mm) and with a thread of the finishing color we tie the shoe with one row of crab step for the remaining half-loops of the 3rd row. We fasten the thread, cut it, hide all the ends. We knit the second shoe in the same way.
We knit a sundress for amigurumi
We knit with a thread of the same thickness that was used to knit the doll itself. We start with yellow.
We cast on 32 ch, close it in a circle with a connecting column.
Rows 1-8 (8 rows): 32 sc (32)
Row 9 (behind the front wall of the loop): (ch, ss) x 32
We attach a white thread to the first column of the 8th row and knit using the remaining half-loops:
10 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc, inc (39)
11th row (behind the front wall of the loop): ss, (14 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 13 sc, further along the dress: 3 ss) x 12, 14 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 13 sc, 2 ss
Row 12 (we tie the petals): (miss ss, ss, ss, 9 hdc, 2 sb, ch 2, 2 ss, 9 hdc, ss, ss, ss skip, ss) x 13
Row 13 (for the left half loops): (3 dc along the dress, ch 18, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc) x 13
Row 14 (we tie the petals): ((miss ss, ss) x 2, sbn, 13 hdc, 2 sbn, 2 ch, 2 sbn, 13 hdc, sbn, ss) x 13
We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for sewing the petals.
The petals on the skirt will curl up, so we need to stitch them. Having retreated a few loops from the top of the skirt, we alternately pick up the upper and lower petals, connecting them to each other.
We secure the thread by slightly pulling the petals.
We attach a yellow thread to the 11th loop of the chain of the first row of the dress and knit FRONT:
1st row: dec, 8 sc, dec (10)
We cut the thread, re-attach it to the 1st column of the 1st row of the front and knit the 2nd row:
2nd row: dec, 6 sc, dec (8)
We fasten the thread and cut it.
We knit STRAPS: we attach the thread to one edge of the front and cast on a chain of 13 ch, with a connecting stitch we attach the chain to the back of the sundress, we knit another 1 dc along the back and return to the beginning of the chain, knitting 13 sc, we fasten the strap to the front of the dress. We knit the second strap in the same way. We tie the neck and armholes of the sundress as follows: (ch, ss) x in each column. We hide all the ends of the threads.
We put a sundress on the doll.
We bend the ends of the wire protruding from the body so that the resulting loop reaches at least the middle of the head, and preferably almost to the back of the head. If necessary, cut off the excess wire. Wrap the loop with adhesive tape. We hide all the threads inside the head and sew the head to the body.
Decorating an amigurumi doll
I knitted the middle of the chamomile from “Kuzya Klubochkin” from Color City, crocheted 6 mm:
1st row: 2 ch, in the first loop: 6 sc (6)
2nd row: inc x 6 (12)
Change the thread to “Soso” Vita cotton, hook 1.5 mm
3rd row: (5 sc in one column) x 12 (60)
In the next row, we begin to knit the upper tier of petals, knitting bead wire. To do this, we knit the required number of air loops and apply a wire folded in half. We knit the first column, grabbing only one wire (inserting the hook between two wires). We knit the second and then all the columns to the end of the chain, grabbing both wires.
We do not cut the wire, we knit it directly from the spool, each time trying on the length of the section folded in half along the chain of ch, and at the end of the row we cut the wire. We tie wire into the lower tier of petals in the same way.
4th row (behind the front wall of the loop, we tie the wire): ss, (18 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc, further in the middle: 3 ss) x 19, 18 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc, 2 ss
Row 5 (we tie the petals): (miss ss, ss, ss, 13 hdc, 2 ss, 2 ch, 2 ss, 13 hdc, ss, ss, ss skip, ss) x 20
6th row (for the left half loops, we tie the wire): (3 ss in the middle, 22 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 21 sc) x 20
Row 7 (we tie the petals): ((miss ss, ss) x 2, sbn, 17 hdc, 2 sbn, 2 ch, 2 sbn, 17 hdc, sbn, ss) x 20
We fasten the thread and cut it. We wrap the ends of the wire with adhesive tape. We thread two pieces of spandex into the middle, securing them with knots on the wrong side. The resulting loops will hold our doll on the flower.
We knit the lower part of the flower in green.
1st row: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (6)
2nd row: inc x 6 (12)
3rd row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)
4th row: sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)
5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
6th row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)
Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
8th row: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)
Row 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)
10th row: 54 sc (54)
11th row: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60)
Row 12: 60 sc (60)
13th row (behind the front wall of the loop): (sc, (hdc, s1n, hdc) x in one column, sc) x 20
We fasten the thread, cut it, leaving a small end for sewing to the flower. Sew to the daisy using the remaining half loops. You need to put some kind of weighting material inside. I didn’t have anything suitable, so I put in the coins, taping them with adhesive tape to two circles of thick plastic.
BackDress, bolero and hat for a 3-4 year old girl. In this work I used “Olivia” threads, 100% cotton, 100 grams, 900 m, hook 1 mm. It took 2.5 skeins (dress-130g, bolero-60g, Panama-40g.)
- interesting selection for the site!!!
- digest of crochet dresses for girls
Knitting a chamomile
I knitted the chamomile as follows:
I collected 4 air loops (v.p.) and secured them in a circle.
1st row - 8 single crochet (dc)
2nd row - 2 tbsp in each column of the previous row
3rd row - * petal (7 chains, 3 lifting loops, in the 4th chain loop from the edge - double crochet (dc), in the 5-6-7th chain, 1 each dc, in the 8th-9th ch - double crochet, in the 10th ch - dc),
skip 1 loop of the previous row, secure the petal in the next row with a half single crochet *, then repeat *…* 7 more times.
Bottom binding of bolero and dress
1-2nd, 4-5th, 8-9th, 11-12th row-columns double crochet
3rd and 10th row - * 3 dc/n + over three stitches of the previous row 3 ch*, repeat*..*
6th row - * skip 2 loops of the previous row into the 3rd row - 3 double crochets with a common base *, repeat *..*
7th row - *2 chain stitches + above three double crochets we knit three double crochets with a common top*, repeat*…* 
When compiling this collection, we could not have imagined that there would be so many different crocheted dolls on the Internet.
What skills will you need to crochet a doll?
- Firstly, you should learn how to knit an “amigurumi ring”, because almost all parts of small toys are knitted on its basis. Thanks to this method, there are no holes at the base of the round parts. And such toys look much neater.
- Secondly, you need to be able to knit in a spiral, without lifting loops. When you knit a piece with lifting loops using single crochets, a so-called seam remains. Sometimes it can be hidden, for example, on the head under the hair of a doll, but on the arms and legs it will not look professional.
- Thirdly, you need to decide on the eyes, what kind of eyes you will make for the doll. It’s not for nothing that they say that the eyes are the mirror of the soul. The realism of the finished toy, its soul, will depend on the eyes. To begin with, you can make bead eyes, buy ready-made eyes in the store. But the height of perfection will be embroidered eyes or drawn using a special technique. Some needlewomen share their secrets for creating eyes. You can find videos like this on YouTube.
- Fourthly, to create a frame doll you will have to learn the basics of working with wire.
- Fifthly, you will need desire and good mood! And also our selection to help you. Of course, we could not cover all the dolls that handicrafts knit and show on the vastness of our and foreign Internet. But we tried to show several interesting specimens. The main thing is that all of them have detailed description and diagrams.
Dolls presented in our selection:
- soft, they don’t know how to stand on their own
- frame dolls (they have a wire frame inside, they should not be given to small children)
- interior dolls
- small dolls - amigurumi
- large dolls, most often without a frame
- dolls - animals
- dolls girls and dolls boys
- fairy-tale, cartoon characters (like Santa Claus or Pinocchio).
Not only children, but also adults love dolls. Such a toy can become a great gift for your family and friends. Many needlewomen even successfully make money by selling their dolls.
Crochet dolls, works of our readers
For a long time, the idea of knitting a neat little ballerina with miniature pointe shoes, a tiny tutu and always a big bun has been spinning in my head :)) At first the idea was figurative, not designed into specific figures. Then I started experimenting, bandaged the nth
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Dear needlework friends! I would like to wish everyone a lifelong LOVE, and give a small gift - MK “To a couple in love.” I will be glad if this MK is useful to anyone, and I wish everyone easy loops and beautiful gifts for the holiday! Us
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Good day, dear needlewomen and site readers! Recently, toys related to the description of the Yo-Yo doll have become very popular. I also didn’t stand aside and knitted just such a doll for my daughter. Design options
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Hello! I would like to show you another version of my performance of the yo-yo baby - the simplest, in my opinion! According to the basic description, a doll is knitted, and the only removable decorations are a hat and a scarf. For a description of the Yo-Yo doll, see the link. At the same time, accessories
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Hello everyone! Lately I’ve been very interested in creating interior toys and now I want to introduce you to this cute baby owl! The baby doll is crocheted from half-wool, crocheted No. 2, with movable handles on a thread fastening. Clothes - cap and dress
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The author of the description is Tatyana Sakadina. My daughter asked me to give her a Lalaloopsy doll and specifically the Sailor for her birthday. I decided to make such a doll for her myself. I knitted from the photo. As I knitted, I made up a description, which I put on display.
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Original scheme and description in English http://stitch.hellooperator.net/free-patterns/amigurumi-doll/ Materials: I used cotton, which is suitable for 3mm crochet. The body, dress and boots are crocheted with the same yarn in 3.5mm crochet (I don't have a description
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Crochet doll Marina from Alexandra Yankovskaya
INTRODUCTION The difficulty level of the master class is simple, i.e. Even a beginner knitter can easily handle it. To knit a toy according to this description, you need to know how to make: 1. Amigurumi ring (or magic, sliding, magic ring) 2. Columns without
Crochet twig doll from Alexandra Yankovskaya
Bobblehead Twig The difficulty level of the master class is simple, i.e. Even a beginner knitter can easily handle it. To knit a toy according to this description, you need to know how to perform: a) adding/decreasing loops according to the circle rule b) amigurumi ring (or magic, sliding,
Gerda doll. Knitted according to Martina's doll's master class. Apparently the hook and threads are thinner than in the description. Our height is 25 instead of 38 cm. Hook 1.5, cotton thread. Author of the doll: Sandrine CAMPANA. The author has a doll about 38 cm, yarn 100%
Crochet dolls, toys from the Internet
Yoka doll. Master class from Larisa Glinchak.
I made all the calculations for hook No. 1.25 and “Iris” yarn, from which, in fact, my Yokis are knitted. The height of the dolls is 13 cm without hairstyle.
With “tails” of about 16cm. Acrylic hair Semenovskaya “Carolina”.
I have never seen such dolls on the Internet before, specifically Yoki, so I decided to show you how I knitted them, maybe it will be useful to someone. So, let's go?
Yoka, unlike many other dolls (this is the first time I’ve encountered this), is knitted with half double crochets, rather than the usual single crochets.
Crocheted dolls in a beret
Doll size: 34 cm. It is crocheted with size 2.5 or 3.
Crochet dolls “Little ladies”
Crochet Candy Doll
You will need:
- flesh-colored yarn,
- yarn (small skeins) for hair and clothing,
- hook,
- filler for toys (holofiber),
- stitching needle,
- plastic eyes for dolls,
- beads or other decorative elements.
Abbreviations used in the description:
V. p. - air loop
sc - single crochet
pst - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
ss4n - double crochet stitch
ss - connecting post
Increase from one loop - knit two stitches
Decrease - knit two stitches together (with a common top)
For knitting you will need:
- 1. Yarn
Yarn Art Jeans: 03 - milky; 07 - beige; 20 - pink; 62 - white; 68 - jeans.
Alize Baby Wool: 19 - water lily; 62 - cream.
Alize Cotton Gold:87 - charcoal gray. - Hook number 2.
- Holofiber filler.
- Doll tresses.
- Screw eyes 5 mm.
- Cardboard (for insoles).
- Buttons and beads for decoration.
ALSENA doll. Summer fairy. Posted by Epic Kawaii
Crochet doll Cutie. Description from Nadezhda Volkova
For the body we will need Coton Gold yarn from Alize, 50 g, hook 2. We start knitting from the head and body, knitting in single crochets.
Crochet blotter doll. Author Larisa Klinchak
This doll has only three knitted body parts - head, torso and feet.
In order to knit them, we will need a hook No. 1.75 and flesh-colored yarn of a suitable thickness for the hook and quite a bit of colored yarn for the shoes.
My Blotters are knitted with Magic Baby yarn, 100% acrylic, 50g/185m.
Crochet doll Claire. Author Diana Yashnikova
This doll got in touch. The appearance was easy to come up with, but I had to get a little tricky with the execution of the details, since I still have little experience in crocheting. This is what happened in the end. Description below, if anyone is interested in this particular version of the doll.
For knitting you will need:
- Alpina Vera yarn 100g/300m cotton with acrylic flesh-colored 1 skein, Lanoso Alara yarn 50g/140m cotton with acrylic light green, dark green and orange
- Hook No. 3, knitting needles No. 3,5 and 3
- Ribbon and 2 buttons
Tilda doll crochet (author of description Alona Rabinovich)
The doll's height is 34 cm. An excellent description for those who like Tildas, but never get around to sewing them. If you know how to crochet, then try crocheting this legendary doll.
Doll in striped stockings. Author Lyubov Erlygaeva
The doll's height is 24 cm. She can't stand without support, but she sits great :)
You will need:
- Acrylic threads 330m/100g (choose your own colors)
- Hook No. 2-2.5
- Filler
Legend:
VP - air loop
sc - single crochet
pr - increase, knit twice in one loop
dec - decrease, knit two loops together
ss - connecting post
dc - double crochet
Notes: The parts of the toy are knitted in a spiral using two walls of the loop, filled as you knit, unless otherwise indicated.
Crochet doll Chamomile. Author of the description: Anna Sadovskaya.
We invite you to knit a gentle and airy girl, Chamomile.
From a thin thread the girl turns out to be very tiny, but if you take thicker yarn, the doll will be taller.
The toy is knitted in a spiral, without connecting posts and lifting loops.
Crochet doll singer VIOLETTA.
You will need:
- Yarn pink, red, gray, black, purple, white, brown
- Hook 2.5
- Metal wire
- Beads for eyes
- Darning needle
- Filler synthetic winterizer
Crocheted Molly doll. Author of the translation: Tatyana Matyushkova
For the doll you will need:
- yarn Gazal Baby Cotton (50g/225m)
- safety eyes 12 mm
- filler
- hook No. 2
- buttons
- ribbon
Crochet Lalalupsi doll. Author Natalya Gorodnaya
Materials:
- yarn of the main flesh color - in the photo Alize cotton gold is milky, the height will be about 20 cm (I will knit from alize bella milky)
- yarn of other colors for dresses, accessories, hair (for hair it is better to take wool, it is lighter and more airy)
- hook of a suitable size (I have No. 2)
- wire for the frame (possible without it), if there is no frame, then prepare cotton swabs, glue, tape to secure the head
- buttons for the eyes of a suitable size (the doll in the photo has 8-9 mm)
- filler
Crochet doll Elsbeth
Size 43 cm. The doll is crocheted No. 6.
Crochet princess doll
Material: yarn 30% acrylic, 30% polyamide, 40% wool, hook number 3, 2 safety eyes 1 cm diameter, filler, needle with a large eye.
PIN UP CHUMBLE from MISS HOOK. Translation - Lyuba Kostyunina
To knit a doll you will need:
- hooks No. 5 and 3.5 cm
- yarn 5 colors and a little red floss for lips
- blunt-tipped embroidery needles
- scissors
- roulette
- markers for marking stitches
- eyes 2 pcs 12 mm each
Crochet chubby doll
Knitting density: 4 sc = 2.5 cm.
Knit in the round, marking the first stitch of the row with a marker thread.
The doll measures about 43 cm in height.
Materials:
- 180 m (200 yds) of body color or peach yarn
- A little green yarn (letter A) and grape color (letter B) for a dress
- Dark brown yarn for hair,
- Pink yarn for lips and handbags,
- Yellow and green yarn for flowers and leaves.
- Hook F (3.75 mm) or G (4 mm)
- 90 cm (1 yard) tape 10 mm wide
- Beads
- Filler
- Black eyes with a diameter of 9.5 and glue. Eyes can be embroidered.
A mischievous doll girl with an umbrella... Translation by Anastasia Dudnik
Difficulty level: medium.
The doll's height is 40-50 cm.
For knitting you will need:
- yarn Yarn Nako Pirlant. Colors: white, green, flesh-colored, black, pink, yellow
- hook No. 3
- wire
- filler for toys
Crochet Lily doll from Carola Herbst
Translation - Lyubov Komkova.
Crochet boy doll Leva
For the body we will need Alize cotton gold yarn (milky, light beige, powder or another flesh color), you can take arn art jeans (the thickness is the same as alize). Hook 2.5 In fact, the yarn can be any one that is available to you, the main thing is to choose the color and the hook that matches the yarn.
Crochet doll with a set of clothes
The doll is crocheted from yarn 30% acrylic, 30% polyamide, 40% wool using No. 3 crochet. You will also need 2 safety eyes with a diameter of 1 cm, a filler, and a needle with a large eye.
Crochet doll Alicia. Translation bysinka738
Doll size in finished form 40 cm.
To knit a doll you will need:
- acrylic yarn 250m/100g in the following colors:
- purple, blue, white.
- Yarn 600g/100m red, hooks No. 2,5 and 3
- Filler for toys
- Needle for tapestries
- Artificial eyes with a diameter of 12mm
- Wire for the frame - 20 cm.
- Dry blush.
Crochet doll Rose from Zabbez
Anni - crocheted amigurumi doll
Anni - amigurumi doll Technique: crocheting, amigurumi Size: height 25 cm Materials: yarn, filling, hook, needle Girls of all ages love dolls - they are so beautiful, with a variety of clothes, they can be combed and dressed up. And playing with it off is a pleasure. Knitted dolls
We crochet the simplest frame doll
The author of the description is Vesnukhin from the Country of Mothers. Based on this description, you can create your own unique frame doll. Lira yarn was used for knitting. The doll turned out to be about 13 cm. The insole for the feet can be cut from plastic caps. The simplest frame
To crochet a doll you will need the following materials: Kartopu organica (body color) – K1216 Kartopu organica ( white) – K010 Gazzal Baby cotton – 3426 Yarnart jeans – 29/562 1.75 mm hook scissors filler (for
Author of the doll: Yulia Suleymanova. The size of the doll is 35-37 cm. To knit the doll, the following materials are needed: The main version of YarnArt JEANS, it will include a description and photo. I will simply show an additional version of Krokha Troitskaya for comparison. I want to clearly see the difference and
Description author: natta_toys. We knit the head 1 6sc in ka 2 6pr 3 1sc, inc*6 4 2sc, inc*6 5 3sc, inc*6 6 4sc, inc*6 7 5sc, inc*6 8 6sc, inc*6 9 7sc, inc*6 10 8sc, inc*6 11-17 60sc 18 8sc, dec*6 19 7sc, dec*6 20 6sc, dec*6 21 5sc, dec*6 22 4sc, dec*6 23 3sc, dec*6 24 2sc, dec *6 leave the thread for sewing, fasten the eyes in 13-14 rows at a distance of 5 loops,
Materials: yarn of similar thickness and a matching hook, eyes, filler, glue, beads for the rim. I used blue and white colors from the Katia Amigurumi set, hair - Pekhorka Baby cotton, head - Lira Vita cotton. Legend:
Translation by Elena Kraft. How to crochet a beautiful doll.
Video - master classes on creating crochet dolls
How to crochet a doll. Master class from Victoria
How to embroider eyes on a doll
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How to knit realistic eyes on a doll
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