– are judged not only by carat weight, clarity and color, but also by cut. It determines how beautiful its shape and the play of light in it will be. What are the main types of cuts? Let's get acquainted with the basics of jewelry.
The cut of a stone and its shape are not the same thing. The shape refers to the overall outline of the cut diamond and looks like a geometric figure: circle, square, rhombus, triangle, oval, etc. The cut characterizes the number, location, shape and proportions of the stone's facets. Stones of the same shape may well have different cuts
Round cut
Number of faces: 57, 33, 17
For anyone – this is a universal type of diamond cut
The round cut is a time-tested classic of diamond cutting. She is the oldest among the “sisters” and “brothers” - other types of cut precious stones. It was invented in the early 1900s. Then diamond saws were invented, which allowed jewelers to work with the hardest mineral of the Earth and the Universe, that is, using some diamonds to turn others into diamonds.
The 57-facet round cut best showcases the brilliance and play of light in the diamond and contributes to its longevity, minimizing the risk of chips and other external damage. This cut is highly valued when resale of the stone. For small diamonds, a simplified round cut of 33 facets (for stones weighing up to 0.99 carats) and 17 facets (0.29 carats or less) is used.
A feature of the round cut is the large loss of weight of the nugget: after processing, up to 50% of the initial weight of the diamond “goes away”.
Oval cut
Number of faces: 57
What decorations is it used for? Rings, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, pendants
A round cut variant that came into use in jewelry in the 1960s. “Oval” has wedge faces of a larger area and an elongated shape, giving the stone a beautiful shine and shimmering shades in the light. When placed in a ring, a stone of this cut visually lengthens the fingers, making them thinner and more graceful.
Marquise cut
Number of faces: 55
What decorations is it used for? Rings, earrings, pendants
The French word marquise is pronounced mar-ki-ee-iz. Therefore, the type of cut, named after the Marquise de Pompadour, the favorite of Louis XV, in Russian sounds and is written as... a male, not a female, aristocratic title. The oval cut with pointed oblong ends immortalized the flirtatious smile of the legendary beauty. However, for many, this type of processing of precious stones is more reminiscent of a boat in shape.
A ring with a marquise cut nugget visually lengthens the fingers of the wearer. Be careful with the decoration: the sharp wedge-shaped ends are a vulnerable part of the stone cut “to resemble an aristocrat” because it is fragile.
Cut "Pear" ("Drop")
Number of faces: 55–56
What decorations is it used for? Earrings, pendants, necklaces
This type of gemstone processing combines the features of the oval cut and the marquise cut. The pear-shaped end has only one tapered end, and it is this end that must be especially carefully protected by the frame. Drop stones, like ovals and marquises, create the illusion of a longer, more graceful neck or fingers when it comes to a ring.
Princess cut
Number of faces: 49, 65, 68, other quantities possible
What decorations is it used for? Rings, earrings, pendants
Like the round cut, the “Princess” cut is famous for the generous play of light in the stone, but at the same time it has a rectangular (less often square) shape. Invented in the late 1960s - early 1970s. A nugget with this cut loses less of its original weight and, as a rule, costs less than a classic round cut diamond with 57 facets. Princess cut is one of the most popular diamond treatments for engagement rings. The right angles of the stone are very fragile and require good protection from the jewelry setting.
Jewelers use such a synonym for the word “facet” as “facet” (“facet”). Platform-edges, also known as facets, are applied to the surface of the stone so that the rays of light falling on it are refracted and create the effect of radiance from within. All types of cuts, except round, are considered fancy
Emerald cut
Number of faces: 57, 65, other quantities possible
What decorations is it used for? Earrings, rings, bracelets, pendants, necklaces
A rectangle with cut corners and fairly large facets - a similar cut is used for large-sized gemstones and exceptional purity, since it will not be possible to hide any flaws in the nugget behind many small edges with such processing of its surface. It is somewhat inferior to the round cut or the “Princess” cut in its ability to play with refracted light, but surpasses them in the strength and brightness of the light flashes emitted.
Asscher cut
Number of faces: 25, 49, 72, other quantities possible
What decorations is it used for? Rings, earrings, bracelets, necklaces
A square variety of the Emerald cut, which has more “floors” - tiers of facets. The cut was invented in Belgium in 1902 by the Asscher brothers and the first peak of its popularity came in the 1930s. The number of edges varies depending on the weight (read: size) of the stone. In terms of jewelry design, this type of cut is typical of Art Deco jewelry.
Radiant cut
Number of faces: 65, 70, other quantities possible
What decorations is it used for? Rings, earrings, pendants
A stone of this cut looks like an octagon - a square or rectangle with cut corners. “Radiant”, as a type of surface treatment for precious nuggets, has absorbed the features of the “Princess” and “Emerald” cuts. It is used for stones that have something to show: rich color, purity and transparency, play of light, and most importantly, solid size. The cut has a brutal, majestic character, which is why men prefer it when choosing, for example, a ring. Visually, jewelry with a Radiant-cut stone somewhat shortens the phalanges of the fingers.
Heart cut
Number of faces: 57–58
What decorations is it used for? Earrings, pendants, pendants
In terms of stone processing technique, this method is close to pear-shaped cutting. The precious heart plays beautifully in the light... and puts you in a romantic mood! For the sake of the beauty of the lines and strength, the ratio of the length and width of the stone after cutting should be 1: 1 - this way the center of the “heart” will be less vulnerable to accidental impacts or falls of the jewelry.
Trilliant cut
Number of faces: 19, 31, 37, 52, other quantities possible
What decorations is it used for? Rings, pendants, necklaces, bracelets, earrings
The cut is in the form of an equilateral triangle with sharp or smooth corners, originating from Holland. Compared to other cutting options, this is the youngest method of processing precious stones: it was invented in the 1980s. The number of edges and their shape: for example, square, diamond-shaped, rectangular, depend on the size of the nugget and the creative intent of the jeweler.
The quality of the stone cut is indicated in the jewelry certificate. In the foreign grading system (GIA, Gemological Institute of America), the following division is accepted: Excellent (excellent cut), Very Good, Good (very good; good), Fair (average) and Poor (unsatisfactory). Russian jewelers use letter symbols: A (first-class cut), B (good), C (average), G (poor). The domestic classification is more strict: stones of the Excellent category, according to the standards of our experts, may well end up in group B
Cutting, the types of which have been honed over centuries and have their own characteristics, can give a noble appearance to jewelry. Without cutting, any gem will seem like a simple stone - unattractive and modest. Only masters are able to give such a mineral charm and grace.
The processing of precious stones, the types of which, taking into account modern trends, have become numerous, is a real jewelry art. With minimal loss of the precious mass of the stone, it should highlight the main advantage of the decoration and provide such a play of light that no one will have any doubt that before his eyes is a real masterpiece.
The main meaning of gemstone processing
Cutting is the mechanical processing of precious or semi-precious minerals in order to obtain the desired structure, which ensures the greatest manifestation of the characteristics of the material. The essence of the process is the formation of regular geometric surfaces on the surface of the gem, which, when formed into a single figure, create the desired perceptual effect.
The main task that cutting solves is to create such a play of light that will ensure the best perception of the color palette and brilliance. The iridescent light effect is provided by a large number of faces and their arrangement so that the multiple reflection and refraction of light rays entering the crystal is maximized. The refraction of rays must be decomposed into spectral components, which give color tints.
Refining precious stones using cutting technology includes two main elements: the external shape of the stone and the type of facets (their shape, location, number). Cutting stones, the types of which are quite numerous given modern trends, is a labor-intensive process. The minimum number of faces is 30, and complex shapes increase them to 240. Moreover, they must be made at the desired angle and with a perfectly flat surface.
In addition to the play of light, cutting must fulfill several conditions: grinding of the material, manifestation of the main color and shape, minimal loss precious mass, combination with the design of the entire decoration in style, palette, etc. The choice of the type and shape of a gem is made taking into account its material, size and purpose of the decoration. For some precious stones (emerald, diamond), characteristic types and shapes of cuts are recognized, which are not usually used for other stones.
Types of improvement
Cutting in general is the formation of many faces (facets) on a stone. Dividing it into types evaluates the number of faces, their shape and size, and the location of the facets relative to each other. The main types of cuts can be distinguished:
- Rose cutting is the formation of facets without a platform and a lower part. The base of the gemstone is flat, and above it there is a crown of triangular-shaped faces placed strictly symmetrically. Depending on the size of the decoration, the number of facets is 12 or 24. Currently, the popularity of this variety has decreased.
- Brilliant cut is a complex multi-faceted treatment for crystals with strong light dispersion (such as diamond). The classic diamond type contains 57 facets located in the following form elements: pavilion (back area) – 24 facets; crown (front area) – platform (face with a large area) and 3 rows of facets with 11 faces each. Such a diamond has only a round stone shape.
- A step cut is a design where the facets are placed one above the other, and the top is made in the form of a polygonal platform. The side facets are made in the form of trapezoids or isosceles triangles.
- The tabular variety is one of the most simple types and contains two stages (lower and upper). The upper part of the stone can be made in the form of one flat surface.
- The emerald cut is a step type cut produced on an octagonal formation stone.
- Asscher is a square crystal formation based on the emerald type, but with more tiers. This type of processing is suitable for stones of increased color purity.
- Wedge cutting is a type of processing in which the corner and side upper facets are shaped like a triangle. Four side faces are combined at each edge of the upper face (platform), forming 4 tetrahedral ones with a trapezoidal base; and the lower part is constructed from similar combinations, but from platforms of a triangular formation. The belt separating the crown from the pavilion is raised to 2/3 of the total height of the mineral.
What shape can the cut be?
The decoration itself has the characteristic outline of the gem, which is also an important processing parameter. The following main forms are distinguished:
- Circle – combines with a classic diamond cut. It is the most common form of processing and is applicable for both large and small stones.
- Oval - considered a type of circle, but has become popular, especially in wedding rings. Compatible well with rose cut.
- Pear is a more complex type of processing with a drop-shaped or pear-shaped stone. The pointed part of such a stone is attached to a necklace, earrings or pendants. A variation of this type of cut is briolette.
- Marquise is the formation of a grain-type crystal with 2 pointed corners. Most often, the length of the stone is chosen to be 2 times the width. When creating composite jewelry, for example, the following design is used: 1 large “awning” is positioned vertically, and several smaller “awnings” are positioned horizontally.
- Heart - this treatment ensures the formation of 2 corners, one of which has a convex shape. In the classic version, the length and width of the stone are made the same.
- A cabochon is a spherical stone treatment. It can be made smooth (without edges) or with a specific cut along the surface of the sphere. The following types of processing are used: simple cabochon - a mineral in the form of a concave lens; double cabochon - the stone has a convex-concave shape.
Carrying out processing of jewelry stones
Refining precious stones includes a number of specialized operations performed by master jewelers: dividing the crystal into parts; turning, cutting; carving (glyptic) according to the material (on semi-precious stones). The crystal can be divided into parts by splitting or sawing. When splitting, special equipment is used (special knife, fastening frame), and the stone is fixed with a cement composition. For sawing you need special equipment - a machine with sawing sections different types. Most often, machines such as SRB, ShP-2, Russian-made or Novex (Germany) are used. The thickness of the discs is no more than 0.05 mm, which avoids large losses.
The shape of the stone is given by turning or peeling. A special machine for such an operation looks like a small lathe.
A diamond tool is used for processing.
AVM brand equipment is often used.
Cutting includes operations such as grinding and polishing. Grinding is carried out on a machine with a vertically placed tool, which rotates at a speed of up to 3000 rpm. Grinding is carried out using diamond powder mixed with olive oil. The grinding powder is rubbed into the surface of the cast iron disc of the machine using ceramic plates. Then, these discs with rubbed powder are used to process the precious stone until the desired edge is obtained. The complete grinding process consists of many such operations performed sequentially.
Refining precious stones is a mandatory element of their processing. Only after processing do they become the decoration that you want to admire.
Cutting is a very complex operation and must be carried out by a specialist with extensive experience; any defect in processing can lead to the rejection of valuable material.
http://goldenhands.info/stati/masters/yuvelirnye-izdelija/vidy-ogranki-dragocennyh-kamnei.html
The most beautiful gemstone in its natural form is rough and unattractive. Even the most perfect creations of nature - pearls - undergo pre-sale processing.
There are many different techniques for cutting gemstones. Either method is designed to make the stone more attractive: be it cutting for harder rocks (diamond), or regular polishing for less hard rocks (turquoise).
Stone processing workshop and cut stones, late 20th century, USSR
Faceted natural topaz (cut blue and wine topaz)
Faceted natural aquamarines
Types of cut: 1 - polished (stepped emerald); 2 - wedge; 3 - rose; 4-diamond; 5 - combined; 6 - fantasy; 7 - cabochon
http://magic154.sitecity.ru/ltext_1407011535.phtml?p_ident=ltext_1407011535.p_2007234301
Crystals and minerals have healing and magical properties not only due to their visible and invisible radiation, their color, but also the existence of the effect of forms.
Due to the shape effect, the same crystal, but with a different cut, exhibits different physical and bioenergetic properties.
Therefore, amulets carved, for example, from carnelian, but of different shapes (circle, cross, triangle, etc.) carry different meanings.
So, the cross protects, the triangle charges, the circle aligns the YIN-YANG energies.
The mystics of antiquity came closest to understanding the stone, attaching great importance to the shape and cut of stones, and not to their color.
From numerous observations, they developed a magical system of connecting the shape of crystals with the elements and numbers.
Thus, Plato, as well as the Pythagoreans, carefully studied the philosophical, mathematical and magical aspects of regular convex polyhedra. They are still called Platonic solids to this day.
There are five such regular convex polyhedra:
tetrahedron (all faces are regular triangles and from each vertex there are exactly three edges),
hexahedron (tetrahedron - cube),
octahedron (octahedron),
dodecahedron (dodecahedron) and
icosahedron (twenty-hedron).
Each of these polyhedra corresponds to a specific element:
tetrahedron - FIRE,
cube - EARTH,
octahedron - AIR,
icosahedron - WATER,
dodecahedron - UNIVERSE.
The color and cut of a stone orient its properties in a certain way, revealing hidden astral energy corresponding to a planet or constellation.
That is why priests and magicians in ancient times kept secret the cut shapes corresponding to each type of mineral.
By cutting, it is possible to increase the play of the stone, its brilliance and magical properties. A “shape effect” occurs.
From an occult point of view, a crystal has vertices that emit energy and centers of faces that absorb energy.
Thus, a hexahedron (cube) has 8 vertices emitting energy and six faces in which energy is absorbed. Since there are more emitting points than absorbing ones, the cube belongs to the male Yang principle.
The octahedron has six points-vertices of radiation and eight points-centers of absorption faces. Therefore, the octahedron absorbs more energy than it emits, so it belongs to the feminine principle YIN.
The tetrahedron has four vertices and four faces, which leads to the equality of YIN-YANG.
The icosahedron has 12 vertices and 20 faces, shaped like regular triangles, so it expresses the YIN principle.
The dodecahedron has 20 vertices and 12 faces, and therefore it expresses the Yang principle. Its 12 faces are shaped like regular pentagons. The dodecahedron is shaped like a soccer ball.
It should be noted that emissive centers can be placed in the centers of the faces, and absorption centers - in the vertices. Obviously, this will lead to an inversion of relationships (YIN-YANG), which once again confirms the unity of these two principles.
In order for the crystalline properties of a gem to fully manifest itself, it must be faceted.
Any cut is good in its own way.
A smaller number of edges and a pointed tip indicate the concentration of the stone’s energy on one target.
The large number of facets and rounded top mean that the influence of the stone is multifaceted and affects many aspects of life.
In nature, many types of stones have excellent brilliance and amazing facets, but very rarely the inner beauty of a stone can be fully revealed without the intervention of a master lapidary. Giving them a certain shape helps enhance the natural charm of jewelry stones, the natural edges of which are rarely perfect.
HISTORY OF STONE CUT
In ancient times, there was almost no attempt to give stones any specific shape; mainly, the stones were simply polished, partially revealing only their color capabilities.
Gradually, the stones began to be polished into a rounded shape, known as a cabochon. The word "cabochon" comes from a French word, which in turn was derived from the Latin "cabo" - head.
Even with this in a simple way processing, such as grinding, several types of cabochon shapes can be distinguished: double (convex), simple and double (convex-concave).
This most ancient cutting method is used in preparing stones for jewelry and currently.
In modern jewelry Cabochon-cut stones are used in cases where the jewelry artist is trying to show the color power of the stone.
But still, with this method of cutting, the stone remains “dead”, its inner life and “game” remain undisclosed.
Until the 16th century, only very simple and regular forms of diamond cutting were created - the diamond tip and the diamond table.
Gradually, a more complex cut with symmetrically located edges appeared - the rose cut. It consists of a hemisphere with 24 regularly spaced triangular faces applied to the last one and a flat base. Nowadays only the smallest diamonds are cut into roses.
For stones with an elongated, asymmetrical shape, the briolette shape is used - triangular edges are applied to the teardrop shape over the entire surface, as in the rose cut.
But the main form of cutting, on which a large number of varieties of gemstone processing are based, has become the diamond cut.
For many centuries it was believed that it was first used in the 17th century by the Venetian lapidary Vincenzo Peruzzi. But this fact is not immutable.
It is only obvious that the emergence of the diamond cutting method is associated with the improvement of the primitive table cutting method by sawing off the corners.
The diamond cut was born through numerous trials and errors by lapidaries, since in order to obtain the maximum effect it was necessary to maintain certain proportions in the stone. Compliance with these proportions and strict order in the arrangement of the edges is necessary to ensure that the stream of light entering the stone is refracted and emits as many rays as possible, creating a rainbow effect.
CUT
Cutting is the processing of precious stones to give them a certain shape and maximize their play and brilliance.
The shape of the cut is by no means random. The stone must be cut so that most of the rays entering it do not pass through, but return back, refracted in the faces.
In a cut stone they are distinguished
A girdle is the edge or tip of a stone that forms its perimeter. This is the end where the upper and lower parts of the stone meet, that is, in fact, a kind of dividing line. This is where the frame is usually fixed.
The crown is the top part of the stone located above the girdle.
The pavilion is the lower part of the stone, in other words, that part of the stone that is located below the girdle down to its lowest point.
The caleta is the lowest point of the stone. When examining a number of stones, you may not see it, which probably indicates a possible defect, but with regard to colored stones, a question may arise about the design of the cut.
THERE ARE THREE TYPES OF CUT: cabochon, faceted, mixed.
The cut awakens the stone to active action.
A cut is like an order to a stone to act in a certain way, depending on the shape of the cut.
CABOCHON
Cabochon is the most ancient type of cut - a convex shape without edges. This form allows the stone to accumulate energy and transfer it to the owner.
In this case, the stone, as it were, carries out a certain order; when cut into a cabochon, it chooses how to act.
The outer side of the cut is a symbol of the action of the stone itself, the inner side is what will happen to the owner.
INFLUENCE
The radiation of a stone can be described as a field. This field can be directed, but the beam will be scattered.
Not very convenient for an instant attack, but suitable for changing any structure or leisurely work, such as meditation, self-healing, etc.
Cabochons “soften” those who, for whatever reason, are harsh and unbalanced or mired in internal contradictions. The absence of directional angles prevents the energy from being directed unconsciously. The cabochon stabilizes, calms, and concentrates strength.
Oval shape - allows the astral bodies of the owner and the stone to merge and exchange energy. Mainly affects the psyche, behavior, etc.
The round shape strengthens the stone itself, allowing it to condense energy in a better way. Serves mainly to enhance health.
The rarest form of cabochon is the lentil or drop. With this form, communication between man and stone occurs on equal terms. They exchange energy but do not merge bodies. Also, such a stone reacts to the thoughts of the owner. If a person is planning to do something from the area of influence of the stone, it will open up an energy flow for him to recharge. At other times it simply affects how you feel.
There are THREE TYPES of cabochon: DOUBLE CONVEX, SIMPLE, DOUBLE CONVEX-CONCAVE.
SIMPLE - bottom surface is flat. Most often, cabochons have a flat bottom and a rounded top. This type of cut reveals the magical power of the stone.
DOUBLE CONVEX - both the top and bottom surfaces are curved.
DOUBLE CONVEX-CONCAVE - lens effect Hollow cabochons are made when they want to weaken the intensity of the color. This form is used almost exclusively for the dark red almandine, or carbuncle, garnet, which appears almost black without the cavity.
CABACHONS ACCORDING TO THE ELEMENTS OF THE ZODIAC SIGNS
The element of Fire (YIN-YANG equality, i.e. absorbing-emitting properties) also includes cabochons of round or oval shape with the untreated hidden part of the stone.
The element of Earth (the male principle of Yang, i.e. radiating) corresponds to an oval cabochon with a processed hidden part.
The elements of Water (expresses the YIN principle, i.e. absorbing.) corresponds to a round cabochon, “pyramid-shaped”, with a processed hidden rounded part.
Elements Air (equality YIN-YANG i.e. absorbing-emitting properties) - cabochon with unprocessed hidden part
FACET CUT - a shape formed by flat polygons.
In a facet cut, the entire stone is cut into flat edges
This type of cut reveals the magical power of the stone and corresponds to the element of Fire (YIN-YANG equality).
Facet cutting has several varieties:
FACET cutting is used mainly for transparent stones. Most varieties of faceted cuts come in TWO MAIN FORMS - DIAMOND AND STEP.
DIAMOND CUT
INFLUENCE
The diamond cut harmonizes the person wearing this stone, as well as, and primarily affects the stone, which becomes more receptive to incoming information, which is very convenient to use in magic.
TYPES OF DIAMOND CUT
FULL DIAMOND
A full brilliant cut has at least 32 facets and plates at the top and at least 24 facets at the bottom. It is designed specifically for diamond, which is why it is also called diamond cut.
Usually, diamonds generally mean cut diamonds.
But still, diamonds, in the strict sense of the word, are diamonds that have a brilliant cut. It is believed that this cut most fully reveals the play and brilliance of the stone. It consists of two multifaceted pyramids - full and truncated, folded at the bases; the crown and pavilion faces are arranged in several rows; a three-row arrangement of faces is common (the so-called triple brilliant cut). The most commonly used types of diamond cuts are: full - 57 facets and simplified - 17 facets (for very small diamonds).
Subsequently, in order to retain more weight and volume of the stone, which was lost as a result of the diamond cut, new modified forms were created on the basis of the latter: “Care's Star”, the so-called “Old American Diamond”, English diamond, “Jubilee” cut and so on.
For stones with asymmetrical shapes, special types of diamond cuts were created, in which the arrangement of the faces is normal, but they are all distorted. Characteristic of these types of cuts are the “marquise” (or “shuttle”) and “pandelok” (or teardrop-shaped) shapes.
EIGHT CUT
The figure-eight cut has, in addition to the platform, 8 facets in the upper and lower parts. It is used for the smallest diamonds, for which full cutting is either impossible or unprofitable. For one carat (200 mg) there are 300, and sometimes 500 pieces of these “eights”.
ROSE
Rose is a facet cut without platform and lower part. There are six or seven variants of it, depending on the number and location of the facets (Dutch, half-Dutch, cross, briolette, etc.).
Currently, diamonds ranging in size from 1 to 2 carats are cut in the form of a “rose” or “rosetta”. Its upper part consists of 24 faces. This shape on top somewhat resembles a rosebud in its appearance, which explains its very name.
Rose cut diamonds are typically 1/5 the cost of brilliant cut diamonds for the same weight and clarity. The classic diamond shapes of brilliants and roses can only be obtained on sufficiently large crystals.
A stone cut with a rose is called a diamond, not a diamond.
Because of bad game it is now almost never used.
STEP CUT
The step cut (ladder cut) is a simple type of facet cut used primarily for colored gemstones. Most facets have parallel edges; the steepness of the facets increases towards the girdle (the rim separating the upper and lower parts of the stone). The number of facets in the lower part is usually greater than in the upper part. This type of cut emphasizes the internal color of the stone.
INFLUENCE - many facets allow you to receive/emit a larger volume of information, a fairly extensive set of possibilities when creating directed flows, complex multivariate programs.
TABLE CUT
The “platform” or “table” cut is the first simplest step cut. To increase the platform (tablet), the upper part of the stone is made flat. As a rule, it is used for men's rings.
EMERALD CUT
Emerald cut is a step cut with an octagonal shape of the stone. Used mainly for emerald. The Ural emerald cut is considered internationally recognized.
STAIRWAY
The step (ladder) cut is a simple type of facet cut used primarily for colored stones. Most of the facets have parallel edges; the steepness of the facets increases towards the girdle. The number of facets at the bottom is usually greater than at the top.
WEDGE
Wedge cut (wedge cut) is a type of step cut. Each facet is divided into four wedges.
CEYLON
The Ceylon cut makes it possible to better preserve the weight of the stone. For this purpose, many small facets are applied to it. This cut is not always symmetrical, and therefore a stone cut this way is often recut.
BAGUETTE
Smooth grinding can be smooth (flat) or rounded, convex (vaulted). In mixed grinding (cutting), two types of grinding are combined: the upper part is smooth, the lower part is faceted, or vice versa.
MIXED CUT CUT
Mixed - the ancient step cut is improved by the brilliant cut. As a rule, the crown is diamond-cut, the pavilion is steps, or vice versa, the crown is flat, the pavilion is faceted or stepped.
IMPACT - similar to diamond cut, but allows more room for creativity. It is possible to find completely radical combinations that individualize the stone and, accordingly, help to reveal your individuality when working.
CUT BY ELEMENTS OF SIGNS
For all female signs, preference in processing (if possible) is given to cabochon.
The edge reveals masculine qualities, it presupposes interaction, activity, awakens certain forces, the stone becomes flashy, it is forced to work.
FIRE - faceted or stepped cut, round or oval cabochon with an untreated hidden part of the stone.
EARTH - oval cabochon (except Virgo) with a processed hidden part.
AIR - rose or trapezoid cut, cabochon with untreated hidden part.
WATER - round cabochon with a “pyramid” shape with a processed hidden rounded part.
In general, to manifest masculine energies (masculine signs, if you have good planets there by status), you need to set stones in masculine metals: gold, iron, tungsten, tin and its alloys, etc.
For manifestation feminine energies It is necessary to set stones in female metals: silver, titanium, lead, bismuth, copper.
Neutral metals: aluminum (Mercury), iridium (Uranium).
LIMITATIONS AND INDICATIONS RELATED TO STONE CUT
Some stones can be cut as desired, but some have restrictions.
Some can only be made as cabochons, while others can only be faceted.
Some stones cannot be cut at all, especially for magical purposes.
Once cut, some stones lose their magical powers.
Such stones include: labradorite, bloodstone (for magic, and cut for wearing), obsidian, selenite, cacholong, chrysoprase (faceted chrysoprase does not bring happiness), tourmaline (for magical and tantric purposes) and other stones of the Moon and Venus.
The stones are opaque, variegated, and with rare exceptions, it is better to make them in cabochons. This is how all chalcedony, agates, etc. should be processed. Chrysoprase is made into a cabochon.
Peridots are made into cabochons and only the noble green olivine chrysolite is cut.
Some stones cannot be made into cabochons: emerald, sapphire, zircon (hyacinth), spinel (lal), rubillite, diamond. Uncut diamonds eventually become harmful. It is better to cut aquamarine; uncut it becomes uncontrollable.
Changeable stones - alexandrite, ruby - they can be used either way, depending on the purpose.
In essence, YIN stones should be cabochons, and YANG stones should be faceted.
http://kolibrigems.com.ua/cirkoniy/6-forma-ogranki.html
In addition to the most common classical round shape, cut shapes called fancy (“marquise”, “princess”, “oval”, “pear”, “emerald”, “heart”, “baguette”) are also popular, each of which is beautiful in its own way and looks great in jewelry.
The use of original forms expands creative horizons jewelry art, allowing you to create new jewelry with inserts that corresponds to modern fashion trends. Our managers are ready to advise you on all questions related to the shape of cubic zirconium by calling the indicated numbers .
http://www.zoloto.peterlife.ru/jewelldoc/128603.html#.VP-2U3ysViQ
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PROCESSING Jewelry stones
Jewelry stones in nature are often found in the form of beautiful crystals and amazingly beautiful specimens, distinguished by their strong shine and natural play of light. However, already in ancient times, man learned to enhance the beauty, brilliance and radiance of stones through their additional processing. Colored stones were processed already in the 4th millennium BC. e. in Ancient Babylon. Jewelry made of lapis lazuli, jasper, turquoise and other stones in the form of polished and rounded plates were found during excavations of ancient burials. One of the most ancient types of stone processing is the art of carving on semi-precious stones, or glyptic. It is not so much the stone itself that is valued, but the skill of its processing. The carved stone is called gems. Around 1600, in Paris, it was possible to carry out a complete brilliant cut of a diamond and a diamond was obtained (from the French “brieux” - to sparkle, sparkle); This type of cut has been preserved in its essential features to this day.
The shape of diamonds can be different: most often round, but for large crystals the following shapes are used: “marquise”, “pear”, oval, baguette, emerald, etc. When cutting precious stones, the optimal angles of the pavilion edges are of decisive importance, since the beam of rays The light entering the stone through the crown should “reflect from the edges of the bottom and exit through the edges of the top into the air.” How larger number The more rays of light come out of the stone, the better the stone shines and sparkles. If the edges of the pavilion are not inclined at optimal angles, then most of the rays will pass through the stone without being reflected from the lower edges, the shine of the stone will be dull and the color will be pale. The refractive index of different stones is different, so each stone has its own critical angles of inclination of the bottom faces. Smooth polishing of gems is another type of processing, known since ancient times. It is chosen not only for translucent and opaque stones, but also for transparent ones (rubies, emeralds, urmalines, etc.) if they contain many inclusions. With smooth processing, the stone is not covered with edges, but is only given a convex shape. This type of grinding also includes cabochons. Round cabochon has the correct shape if its height approximately corresponds to the radius of the base circle. If it is greater than this radius, they speak of a high cabochon; if it is less, they speak of a flat (low) cabochon. Main types of cuts
Shapes given to stone during processing
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· Chess The checkerboard cut is commonly used for citrine, garnet, topaz, amethyst and semi-precious stones. |
Stones are cut to give them a certain shape, to emphasize the shine and play of light. A high-quality cut does not allow rays to pass through - they are refracted in the edges of transparent and translucent stones and come back out. First, a scheme is created and thought through, taking into account the shape of the stone, the number, size and location of the edges and angles between the edges. The stones are then cut and polished.
There are about 250 varieties of cuts in jewelry. They depend not only on the taste preferences of jewelers, but also on the physical and optical characteristics of the stones. During the cutting process, it is important to preserve the weight of the stone and its natural advantages. Cutting can be divided into three large groups: smooth, faceted And mixed.
Smooth cut
Although formally it is classified as cutting, in essence it is polishing. The stone processed in this way has no edges, only a polished surface.
Cabochon(from the French caboche - “head” or “nail with a wide and round head”) - the most famous variety of smooth cut. The cabochon is considered one of the first, and therefore the oldest, cuts. Honed stone usually has a flat bottom and a smooth, convex dome. Most often it is made in the shape of a circle or oval, although other shapes are also found: rectangle, rhombus, heart, drop, boat, crescent.
Cabochon cutting is used for opaque and translucent stones, as well as for stones with various optical effects (asterism, iridescence, opalescence, cat eye). This is how jade, turquoise, amber, malachite, lapis lazuli, serpentine, onyx, opal, tugtupite, and sometimes sapphires, rubies and other stones are processed. This cutting method is not very complicated, and the quality of the source material does not play a big role.
Used for different tasks and stones different types cabochons. Opaque stones with a colored surface are cut into a single cabochon, which has a flat base and a convex top. For stones with internal defects, the shape of a double (lentil) cabochon, in which both sides are convex, is suitable. Dark stones are often cut into hollow cabochons with a concave base. There is also a tall cabochon with a very convex top and a flat one that looks like a frozen drop of candle wax.
Ball– another option for a smooth cut. Semi-precious and ornamental stones are processed in this way: aventurine, agate, amethyst, quartz, malachite, onyx, jasper.
Faceted cut
The most diverse type of cut is faceted or beveled (from the French facette - “edge”). As the name suggests, this treatment creates many edges on the surface of the stone. Faceted cutting is used when working with transparent stones: it brings out their shine, enhances color and emphasizes light effects.
To understand the features different options facet cut, you need to imagine the anatomy of the cut stone.
Scheme 1: structure of a cut stone
The upper and lower parts of the stone are separated by a thin belt - a girdle. Usually the frame is fixed on it. The upper part, located above the girdle, is called the crown. There is a platform on it - a flat top face, the largest face of the stone. The lower part, located under the girdle, is called the pavilion. And the point of convergence of the edges of the pavilion at the very bottom is a culet; it can be in the form of a spike, a small horizontal edge or a line.
Facet cutting is divided into two types: classic or round diamond, And fantasy.
Faceted: round diamond
The round brilliant cut is the most common form of cutting for diamonds and other clear stones with strong light dispersion.
The pioneers of the round shape are considered to be the Americans Henry Morse and Charles Field, who in the 1870s created a steam engine for processing diamonds.
The round cut best demonstrates the brilliance and play of light in the stone and minimizes the risk of external damage. A diamond sparkles brightest if the exact proportions of the pavilion's edges are met - they are the ones who ensure complete internal reflection of light. The main disadvantage of the round cut is the significant loss of weight of the nugget: after processing, up to 60% of the original weight can be lost.
Classic or full brilliant cut consists of 57 faces. There are 33 facets on the crown and 24 facets on the pavilion. First of all, this cut is used for large diamonds weighing over 1 carat. The main role here is played by proportions, symmetry and surface quality. The standard of a classic cut is considered to be the “ideal diamond,” the parameters of which were calculated by mathematician Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919.
Simplified brilliant cut consists of 33 or 17 faces. It is used when processing small and medium-sized stones: 33 facets for stones weighing up to 0.99 carats, 17 facets for “diamond chips” weighing up to 0.29 carats. Diamonds, rhodolites, amethysts, sapphires, rubies, peridots, topazes and many other stones are processed in this way.
Photo 1: classic or full diamond cut, the author of this and other photographs is Dmitry Stolyarevich
Types of round cuts that have more than 57 facets are called diamond modifications. These are, for example, the Belgian Highlight (73 facets), King (86 facets) and Magna (102 facets) developed in New York, or the Royal Cut (154 facets).
Faceted: fantasy. Step varieties
With this cut, the edges are arranged parallel and above each other, like steps. The wide upper platform is made in the form of a polygon, and the side faces are in the form of trapezoids or isosceles triangles.
The step cut does not cause brilliant shine, but rather emphasizes the color of the stone. Therefore, it is used for transparent stones of “medium color tones”: a high cut enhances the color, a low cut weakens it.
Table or table cut– one of the simplest step cuts. Usually it is a flat stone with a large platform: the crown consists of five sides, the pavilion - of four. A variation can be considered the Mirror cut with a very large platform and a shallow pavilion. The table is used mainly for semi-precious and ornamental stones, which are often used in signet rings.
Baguette– an elongated version of the Table, cut in the shape of a rectangle. Forms such as Trapezoid And Square (Care), often referred to as a variety of Baguette.
The modern version of this cut appeared in the early 20th century. Its name comes from the French. bague – Until the 17th century, this word meant precious stones in general. The Baguette has 14 sides, and there are also 24-sided versions. Technically it is quite simple, but due to the openness of the edges it requires high purity of the stone. This is how small side stones in jewelry are mainly cut: diamonds, rubies, emeralds, topazes.
Other quadrangles - Rhombus, Kite, Epaulet, Barrel - are considered varieties of Baguette. They are distinguished by the inclination of the corners and the curvature of the sides. How independent forms Pentagon and Hexagon are also distinguished.
Emerald (Emerald) or Octagon– step cut with an octagonal shape of the stone. It consists of 58 or 65 edges and looks like a Baguette, but the corners here are not sharp, but beveled.
Modern Emerald standards were adopted in the 1940s - initially this cut was intended specifically for emeralds, but over time, sapphires, tourmalines, beryls, and other stones began to be cut this way. Here, too, high purity and transparency of the stone is required, otherwise imperfections will be visible to the naked eye. But the light that falls on the surface is reflected in wide and bright flashes. In terms of cost and complexity, this is one of the most affordable cuts.
Asher– an octagonal cut, which is made in the shape of a square and is similar in characteristics to Emerald. It was developed in 1902 by the famous Dutch jeweler Joseph Asscher, but it gained popularity only in the 1920s. The original version has 58 edges, and its modification, the Royal Asscher, has 74 edges.
Photo 2: emerald cut
Photo 3: Asscher cut
Faceted: fantasy. Wedge varieties
Wedge cut shapes are often considered variations of the round brilliant cut. IN in this case Many edges in the form of wedges are applied to the surface, which well reveal the color of the stone and enliven the play of light in it.
Oval– this cut compares favorably with the round cut by preserving the weight of the stone. It was created in the 1960s by jeweler Lazar Kaplan. Oval-cut stones usually have 57 facets, although the number may vary. The elongated shape allows you to create the illusion of a larger stone; it looks especially advantageous in rings. The oval cut is used mainly for large transparent stones - aquamarines, amethysts, sapphires, topaz.
Marquis (Marquise) It is an oval with pointed ends, similar to a boat. This cut was created in France in the mid-18th century, and according to legend, it was dedicated to the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. The marquise also has 57 facets and is characterized by a slight loss in the weight of the nugget: if the stone is initially oblong, up to 80% can be preserved. This is how diamonds, amethysts, emeralds, and rubies are cut. The Marquise cut is considered a variation Shuttle– it already has an upper platform and slightly fewer edges.
Photo 3: oval cut
Photo 5: marquise cut
Pear– this cut visually resembles a drop: one end is rounded, the other is pointed. It is sometimes considered a hybrid of the round brilliant cut and the marquise cut. The smooth platform is also made in the shape of a drop, there are usually 57 wedge faces. Such a stone should have clear symmetry at the point of narrowing, since this is where the play of light is concentrated.
Aquamarines, amethysts, and topazes are cut in the shape of a Pear. Cut Pandelok is a variant of Pear, only its pavilion is deeper and more rounded.
Briolette, Drop, Olive (Olive)- varieties of elongated teardrop shape. Unlike Grusha, they have neither a platform nor a girdle. The surfaces of Briolette and Olive are completely covered with wedges, only the shape of the Olive resembles an ellipse with cut ends. In the Drop, the narrow upper part is formed by long edges extended downwards, and the rounded lower part is formed by small wedges. Stones cut in this way are mainly used as pendants.
In elongated Oval, Marquise, and Pear cuts, if the proportions and symmetry are disturbed, the optical effect of a “bow tie” may appear: dark spot in the center of the site.
Photo 5: pear cut
Princess– rectangular wedge cut, the second most popular cut for diamonds. It was created in the 1980s by the jeweler Bezalel Ambar - he branded the original version with 49 facets under the name Quadrillion. The princess has square outlines and sharp corners, and the deep pavilion, where the play of light is concentrated, ends in a spike. The 58 facets create a brilliance that rivals round diamonds, but retains about 80% of the stone after cutting.
Flanders– modification of the Princess, which has 61 sides. It was also invented in the 1980s, named after the Belgian region of Flanders. Features cut corners and very complex symmetry, so the cutting process takes three times longer than creating a round diamond.
Photo 6: princess cut
Antique (Antique) or Cushion (Cushion)– this cut has been around for over a hundred years and at one time was almost as popular as the round brilliant cut is today. The shape of Cushion (English cushion - “pillow”) really resembles a pillow. The stone has rounded corners, 72 sides, and can be square or slightly elongated. This is how diamonds, amethysts, sapphires, emeralds, rubies, quartz and its varieties are cut. By the way, the cut received its other name - Antique - in recognition of its historical roots: its predecessor is considered to be the Old Mine Cut of the 18th century.
Trilliant (Trillian, Trillion) is a triangular wedge cut created by the Asscher brothers at the beginning of the 20th century. The corners of the stone can be sharp, beveled or rounded; some options have a pronounced triangular area, some do not. The classic Trilliant has 43 sides, but modern options may have 50 edges or more. This cut is well suited for light stones: diamond, aquamarine, beryl, white sapphire. Some jewelers use it to lighten dark stones - tanzanite, amethyst, rhodolite. Varieties of the Trilliant can be considered the Shield and Troidia cuts, in which the sides are slightly curved outward.
Heart– one of the most complex and expensive forms of wedge cutting. It is often used in exclusive jewelry. In principle, it resembles a Pear, but splits on the rounded side, taking the shape of a heart. The stone is usually equal in length and width, and consists of 59 facets - their number may vary depending on the original size of the stone. This is how rubies, amethysts, topazes, garnets, and sometimes colored diamonds are cut.
Ball or Sphere– a rather rare type of wedge cut, which has 120 facets or more. Despite the fact that a stone processed in this way will not sparkle very brightly, the cutting itself is extremely labor-intensive and requires high skill.
Photo 7: heart cut
Also worth noting is the collection of polygonal “floral” cuts (Fire Rose, Sunflower, Dahlia, Calendula, Zinnia), which were created by the famous jeweler Gabi Tolkowsky, nephew of the creator of the “ideal diamond”. They are designed specifically for rough diamonds over 0.25 carats and are based on unusual angular parameters. Russian experts have developed the Happy decagonal cut, which has 81 facets. Visually, it is very similar to a round diamond, but, like many other fancy options, it has less weight loss from the stone.
Mixed cuts
Mixed cutting combines smooth and faceted, wedge and stepped in different combinations. For example, on one side the stone has edges, but on the other it remains smooth - flat or rounded. Sometimes the cut is mixed on the same half of the stone. When processing, the optical properties of stones are taken into account different colors: Cutting parameters such as, for example, the height of the pavilion depend on this.
An outdated cut can also be classified as a mixed type. Rose: it has a flat base, there is no girdle or pavilion. It is essentially a cabochon, the convex part of which is cut into wedges. The first Rose appeared in the 16th century, initially it had no more than six sides. Over the century, their number has increased, the placement on the crown has changed, as well as the height of the crown itself. The edges were not always symmetrical; rather irregular outlines were more common. The most famous varieties of Rose:
- Dutch
- Half-Dutch
- Double Dutch
- Cross
- Antwerp
French cut is also considered mixed. It appeared in the early 1400s, but came into fashion only two centuries later. Its platform and girdle are square, the crown is faceted with triangular wedges that form a diagonal cross, and the pavilion can be stepped. Its contours combined with 21 edges provide high light output.
Baryon- a cut introduced by jeweler Basil Watermeyer in 1971 and named after himself and his wife Marion. One option has a square shape with slightly curved sides, 62 facets and combines a stepped crown with a diamond pavilion. The Baryon cut has two features: the edges on the girdle are crescent-shaped, and the four edges of the pavilion, when viewed from above, through the platform, form a cross.
Radiant is also a combination of step and brilliant cut. It was developed by Henry Grossbard in 1977. The stone has a rectangular or square shape, an octagonal outline, cut corners and 70 facets. The name speaks for itself – radiant means “shining, radiant”. Combining best features two types of cut, it enhances the color of colored stones and the radiance of colorless ones.
In this text, we tried to generalize and arrange the most common classifications of stones into a single logic. The output was full guide by cut. We thank the author of the text, Olga Martynova, for the analytical work and creation of the guide structure.
The beauty of a precious stone shining on a velvet cushion in jewelry store, seems to us something unshakable: shimmering subtly in its gold or silver frame, playing with all the colors of the rainbow under the sun's rays or the light of an electric lamp, it seems to us a wonderful guest, honoring our gray and mortal world with its ceremonial radiance. However, the real story of any gem is similar to the story of Cinderella: often one would never recognize this gorgeous, shining crystal in a nondescript block of indeterminate color, extracted from the bowels of the earth by a miner. The path that mineral ore will have to go through before it becomes an adornment for the next beauty is long and difficult - after all, the natural edges of precious stones are rarely perfect, and only the painstaking work of a lapidary jeweler can fully reveal their charm.
The processing that all gems undergo is called cutting, and consists of cutting off unnecessary particles from the stone and giving it a certain shape with a certain number of edges (or facets, chamfers). It is thanks to cutting that color, shine, two-color or luminescence effects are fully revealed, and defects, cloudiness, and cracks, on the contrary, disappear or become completely invisible. is not chosen at random - for each type of mineral there are the most advantageous types of cuts in a decorative sense, which are “responsible” for ensuring that the rays of light entering the body of the stone do not pass through, but “return”, refracting on the edges and pleasing the eye fancy shine; the same diamond in its uncut form is just a cloudy crystal, similar to cheap glass...
The very first type of cut that humanity recognized was the cabochon - in ancient times, the processing of gems was quite primitive, and everything unnecessary was simply cut off from the stone, giving it a rounded shape, similar to a “head”. Cabochons have not gone out of fashion today, but in our time only opaque and translucent semi-precious stones (for example, turquoise, malachite, rose quartz, charoite) are cut this way, because light cannot penetrate inside the gem, and best option- make it reflect from the surface itself. Some special effects - starryness, iridescence, opalescence - are best seen when the stone is cut in a cabochon, so that a six-rayed star appears to shimmer on a ruby or sapphire (they most often have asterism). The most common are simple cabochons, with a flat base and a convex top surface. In addition, there are double cabochons, where the bottom edge is also slightly curved in the opposite direction from the top, and convex-concave cabochons, in which the bottom base is curved in the same direction as the top plane, making the stone look like a lens.
Cabochons should not be confused with gem plates semi-precious stones, on which a certain three-dimensional plot was cut out. When the picture is convex and seems to protrude from the surface of the stone, the product is called a cameo; The image buried inside the stone is called intaglio. Glyptic is usually applied to multi-layered colored gems - chalcedony, jasper, agate.
Transparent gems, regardless of their value, are usually cut with a different number of geometrically correct edges, applied in a certain proportion. This type of cutting was first discovered by the jewelers of Ancient India, where precious stones were the main value, and the love for them was enormous. Then pieces of stone, regardless of size, were covered with a large number of small edges, often asymmetrically located - this was the prototype of a facet cut, where the shape of the mineral was formed from many flat polygons.
Later, more advanced types of faceted cuts appeared - one of the most interesting, but not used today, was the rose, i.e. a cut consisting of a flat bottom base, similar to the base of a cabochon, and a faceted top part, on which all the edges “converge” towards the center. There were several varieties of roses - Dutch with 24 sides, close to a circle in outline, half-Dutch and Antwerp with hexagonal outlines, and cross-rose, on the surface of which a cross protruded by combining faces.
A stepped or polished cut, which used to be called a “table”, is usually a fairly large stone with an upper flat and wide platform, from which elongated edges descend in steps and parallel to each other.
Its variety is a wedge cut, similar in all respects to the previous one, but with the additional application of wedge-shaped edges - each elongated chamfer is crushed using one or two triangular “wedges” connected by their vertices.
Diamond cut was invented in the 17th century in Holland to fully reveal the beauty of the stone of the same name and give it a characteristic rainbow shine. It consists of two polyhedral pyramids, folded at their bases - the lower one is complete, the upper one is truncated, with a polygonal table at the top. The minimum number of facets for this type of cut is 17 (for the smallest stones); generally accepted - from 57 (24 facets in the lower part, 33 in the upper); large and valuable stones can have up to 240 or more facets...
The structure of a diamond. The top part of the round diamond is the crown.
The structure of a diamond. The bottom part of the round diamond is the pavilion.
The most popular types of cuts are brilliant and step, as well as their hybrid - mixed cut, which takes features of both types of gem processing. Mixed stones include the famous briolette cut, which is used for oblong, irregularly shaped stones that are given the appearance of a faceted “drop.”
And last on the list, but by no means the last in beauty - fancy cut, which includes combined elements with the addition of wedges and other various forms facet. Using the “fantasy” method, inserts of unusual shapes are made - hearts, drops, stars, flowers, shuttles, coats of arms, etc.
Step brilliant cut found on diamonds with square, rectangular or trapezoidal shapes. The facets of a step-cut diamond can be in the form of a rectangle or trapezoid, and are always located parallel to the girdle - this is the name of the facet that divides the diamond into upper and lower parts. The step cut does not show the “game”, “fire” and flashes of light as brightly as compared to the brilliant cut, but it emphasizes the transparency and purity of the diamond.
Step cut diamonds: Asher, Emerald.
Modified brilliant cut is the most common type of diamond cut because the standard brilliant cut can be effectively modified into many different shapes while maintaining the same number of facets and principles of arrangement relative to each other. Diamonds cut with a modified brilliant cut “play” and captivate with their flashes in much the same way as round diamonds.
Fancy Altered Cut Diamonds: Oval, Marquis, Pear, Heart, Cushion.
Mixed cut diamond combines the property of a step cut to preserve the original weight of a diamond and the advantages of a brilliant cut in demonstrating the “game” and optical properties of a diamond. The mixed cut first appeared in the 60s of the last century - a stone with a diamond-cut crown and a step-cut pavilion was demonstrated to the public, and at the same time the diamond cut was introduced to the world Princess, which has become so popular in our time that it is second only to the classic round brilliant cut.
Mixed cut diamonds Princess, Radiant.
| Cut type | Variety | Description |
| Cabochon(has the correct geometric shape, usually an oval or circle, resembles a “frozen drop”) | Simple | Flat base, convex top |
| Double convex | The top and bottom surfaces are curved in opposite directions | |
| Convex-concave | Both surfaces are curved in one direction, forming a “lens” | |
| Rose(Sloped edges on top and flat base, no longer applicable) | Dutch | Bulge in the shape of a flying drop on a flat base, 24 triangular and rhombic faces |
| Half-Dutch | Likewise, 12 faces | |
| Diamond(Round shape, consists of two opposing pyramids, the upper one is truncated) | Semi-diamond | Contains 17 faces |
| Full Diamond | Contains from 57 to 240 edges | |
| Stepped(wide upper platform and different number of “steps” - gentle chamfers) | Emerald step | Octagonal shape, used mainly for emeralds |
| staircase | All faces are parallel to each other, there are fewer faces in the upper part than in the lower part | |
| Baguette | Square or trapezoidal shape, large platform on top, few side edges | |
| Wedge(each facet is divided into several wedges) | Radiant | Octagonal cut with square or rectangular shape |
| Trillion | Triangular shape | |
| Mixed(combines elements of brilliant and step cuts in various combinations) | Briolette | Half cabochon Pear-shaped with intersecting elongated facets |
| Princess | Plate with deep cuts and notches | |
| Half cabochon | The upper part is round (cabochon), the lower part is faceted in the shape of a truncated cone. | |
| Fantasy(contains all shapes of edges, including asymmetrical and distorted, used to obtain non-standard shapes of inserts) | Heart | Heart-shaped, formed by many small wedge-shaped edges |
| Marquise (shuttle) | Ellipse pointed on both sides | |
| Pendant | Elongated teardrop shape | |
| Pear | Ovoid shape |
In fact, the number of types of cuts is enormous - after all, a great variety of combinations of triangular, rectangular and diamond-shaped facets can be invented, and if you add fancy cuts to this, it becomes clear that this requires not an article, but an entire encyclopedia. Jewelers do not stop there - they are constantly improving, coming up with more and more new combinations that even better reflect the play of light on the facets of the next diamond or topaz. And we, perhaps, don’t need to learn complex terms by heart and know the difference between a shuttle and a briolette - you don’t need to be an expert to see how the sun is reflected in semi-precious facets and again admire how the symbiosis of Nature and man turned out to be extremely successful and resulted in such a magnificent work of art. After all, a precious piece of jewelry is, first of all, our own piece of happiness, a crane in hand, which reveals to us another amazing facet of existence.
