No best gift for a man than a gift sewn by his own with my own hands. Especially if it's a stunning, stylish, fitted shirt made with him in mind!
How to sew a men's shirt: take measurements
To create a pattern for a men's fitted shirt, you need to take the following measurements:
- Height – 180 cm
- Chest circumference (OG) – 102 cm
- Waist circumference (FR) – 94 cm
- Sleeve length (SL) – 65 cm
- Neck circumference (NS) – 42 cm
- Back length to waist – 47 cm
- Wrist circumference – 19 cm
- Product length – 65 cm
Auxiliary measurements for constructing a pattern for a men's fitted shirt must be calculated using the formulas:
Back width (ShSp) = 2/10 OG - 1 cm (for OG up to 112 cm) = 1/10 OG + 10.5 cm (for OG more than 112 cm)
Armhole width (ShPr) = 1/10 OG + 2 cm
Chest width (WG) = 2/10 OG - 1 cm (for OG up to 112 cm) = 1/2 OG - ShSp - ShPr (for OG over 112 cm)
Armhole depth (Gpr) = (1/10 OG + 12) + 3 (for all sizes)
Back neck length (DGsp) = 1/6 Neck circumference
The increase in the freedom of fit of a men's fitted shirt should be 5 - 5.5 cm. Important! The width of the mesh is 1/2 OG + 5.5 cm = 52 + 5.5 = 57.5 cm.
Increases in looseness of fit for men's shirts:
Calculation of initial values:
Back width = 102/10 ∗ 2 – 1 = 19.4 cm
Armhole width = 102/10 + 2 = 12.2 cm
Chest width = 102/10 ∗ 2 – 1 = 19.4 cm
After performing the calculations, you need to check their correctness. To do this, add the resulting values. The amount should be equal to the half-circumference of the chest according to the measurement.
Examination: 19.4 + 12.2 + 19.4 = 51 cm (half chest circumference according to measurement is 51 cm, therefore the calculations were performed correctly).
Additionally, the armhole depth is calculated with an increase (Gpr) = 102/10 + 12 + 3 = 25.2 cm.
Back neck length (DGsp) = 42/6 = 7 cm.
Building a base pattern
Rice. 1. Pattern-basis of a men's shirt
Draw a grid with a width equal to 1/2 OG + 5.5 cm for the freedom of fit of the shirt and a length equal to the desired length of the shirt according to the measurement: AB = 102/2 + 5.5 = 51 + 5.5 = 56.5 cm. AD = 65 cm (shirt length according to measurements).
From point A downwards, set aside Armhole depth AG = 102/10 +12 +3 = 25.2 cm, Length of the back of the shirt to the waist according to AT = 47 cm. Draw lines GG1, TT1, G2P, G3P2.
From point G1 from right to left, set aside the width of the back of a men's shirt with an increase ГГ2 = 102/10х2 – 1 + 1.3 = 20.7 cm, the width of the armhole of a men's shirt with an increase Г2Г3 = 102/10 + 2 + 3.5 = 15.7 cm.
Shirt side line G4 = G2G3/2. Draw line G4N1.
From point B to the left, set aside the calculated value of the back neck length + 1 cm: BB1 = 7 + 1 = 8 cm.
From point B1, set aside 2 cm upward: B1B2 = 2 cm. Draw the sprout of the back of a man’s shirt according to the pattern.
Shoulder slope From point P, set aside 3 cm down: PP1 = 3 cm. Draw the shoulder line along the ruler, set aside a shoulder length equal to the length of the shoulder according to the measurement + 0.5 cm.
Divide the armhole depth lines PG2 and P2G3 into 5 equal parts. From the lower point of division PG2, draw a horizontal line 1.5 cm long, from the middle point of division draw a horizontal line 0.7 cm long. Using the pattern, draw a line for the armhole of the back of a man’s shirt.
From point A, move down the length of the back neck +2 cm for all sizes AA1 = 7 + 2 = 9 cm and to the right – the length of the back neck (DGsp = 7 cm). Connect the resulting points with a line, divide the line in half and set aside 1.7 cm at a right angle. Draw the neckline of the front of the men's shirt according to the pattern.
From point P2, set aside 4 cm downwards - point P3. Draw a shoulder line for the front of the shirt, length equal to length back shoulder.
Using the pattern, draw an armhole for the front of a man’s shirt, which passes through the midpoint of division P2G3 to point G4.
On the side at the level of the waist line, set aside 2 cm to the left and 1.5 cm to the right for darts. Connect the resulting points with points G4 and H1 with smooth curved lines.
Divide the back of the shirt in half at the waist and set aside 1.5 cm for the dart from the resulting point to the left and right. The length of the dart up is 17-18 cm.
IMPORTANT! Measure the width of the mesh along the bottom of the shirt. HH2 should be 1/2 OB +2 cm. If the obtained value is less, it is necessary to expand the shirt on the sides.
In the middle of the front it is necessary to give an increase to the bar, making an increase to the middle of the front - 4.5 cm. The width of the bar is finished form– 3 cm. The strip can be one-piece or stitched. In the second case, the bar must be cut and cut separately.
Pattern modeling
Rice. 2. How to sew a men's shirt: modeling
Set aside 2 cm along the armhole of the front of the shirt and along the neckline from the shoulder. Draw a horizontal line. Cut the resulting part and glue it along the shoulder line of the back.
Along the middle seam of the back, set aside 7 cm from the neckline - the width of the yoke. Draw a horizontal line.
Along the armhole from the yoke line, set aside 1-1.5 cm. Draw a smooth line along the pattern. Cut the yoke from the back. In the middle of the back, add 3 cm to the fold. Cut out the back with a fold in the center. The finished width of the fold is 3 cm.
Along the bottom of the shirt, using a pattern, putting 4 cm up on the sides, draw a curly line for the bottom of the shirt.
Cut out the front and back of the shirt without a yoke, and additionally cut out two pieces of the yoke (the yoke in men's shirts is made double - in two layers of fabric).
Men's shirt sleeve pattern
Rice. 3. Sleeve pattern for a men’s shirt
Measure the length of the armhole on the drawing. Based on the measured value of the armhole, calculate the Height of the edging OO1 = 1/3 of the length of the armhole according to the drawing minus 5 cm, and the Length of the auxiliary line of the edging OP and OP1 = 1/2 of the Length of the armhole according to the drawing.
From point O (the highest point of the shirt sleeve piping) downwards, set the calculated piping height - point O1. Draw a horizontal line through point O1 - PP1.
From point O to the left and right, set aside the calculated value of the Length of the auxiliary line of the shirt sleeve OP and OP1.
From point O downwards, set the length of the sleeve according to the measurement minus 1 cm.
The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the length of the sleeve cuff + 4 cm for two folds. Divide the resulting value in half and put it to the left and right of point H.
IMPORTANT! The length of the cuff is calculated as follows: Wrist circumference as measured + 2 cm for loose fit + 3 cm for fastening.
Divide the sleeve cut – НН1 in half. The cutting line is 10-12 cm long.
Draw the cuff line of the sleeve as shown in the pattern drawing.
Pattern of a cuff for a shirt sleeve
Rice. 4. Cuff pattern for a men's fitted shirt
The cuff pattern drawing shows the construction of a cuff for a cufflink and the construction of a simple cuff. AB is equal to the circumference of the wrist according to the measurement + 2 cm for the looseness of the fit + 3 cm for the clasp.
Collar pattern
Rice. 5. Shirt collar pattern
Measure the length of the front neck of the finished shirt with the placket and the back of the shirt. Build a stand-up collar and a fly-away collar for a men's shirt as shown in pattern drawing 4.
The stand-up collar is cut out separately, the collar of a men's shirt is cut out separately.
Your shirt is closer to your body. She - basic item in a lady's wardrobe. No wonder this universal top for trousers and skirts is always included in professional uniforms. A fashionable women's shirt can be fitted or loose, of any color, with a pattern you like, completely repeat the cut of a man's shirt or be its diametric opposite. The style is limited only by the imagination of the hostess or the requirements of the dress code.
All that remains is to sew the shirt with your own hands and wear it with pleasure!
Step one - choosing a model and fabric
A women's shirt is much freer in the choice of model, fabrics and patterns than a men's shirt. But it’s still better to sew it from natural or mixed fabrics (a little synthetics are always added to shirt fabrics so that the product retains its appearance longer and does not wrinkle). Best choice will become poplin.
If you are going to use another fabric, then pay attention to its wrinkleability; you can check this by squeezing the fabric tightly in your fist for a few seconds. If the folds straighten out quickly, then this is your option. Crepes wrinkle the least.
The pattern also matters: small elements and beautiful stitching are better visible, they look better in laconic models and on large figures. Classic or can be used not only traditionally, but also boldly combined with other prints or creatively placed in the cut of a shirt.
Any silhouette is suitable for slim people; for a full figure it is better to choose a semi-fitting silhouette and opaque fabrics. Just remember that satins and shiny fabrics treacherously emphasize volumes.
For office options, classic (plain or with a soft pattern) and muted tones are best suited. Silhouettes are semi-fitted or moderately loose with minimal details and trim. Such shirts will best fit into the wardrobe of a business lady. By the way, even the most boring office shirt can be sewn with a removable frill, tie or bow tie from the same fabric and change the look depending on the situation. Women's shirts from can be used as clothing for special occasions.
If the dress code is not a decree for you, then the field for experiments is unlimited!
Strictly
Classic
Juicy
Romantic
Step two - pattern of a women's shirt
The most popular option is to sew a classic shirt of a semi-fitting silhouette with a stand-up collar, a yoke on the back and long sleeves with cuffs. You'll need a proven base of a fitted silhouette. All modeling - translation bust dart into the side seam and modeling the yoke by moving the dart into the armhole on the back.
You can find a suitable pattern in Burda magazine 2015-2016 Autumn-Winter.
Step three - cutting and sewing
Sewing machine with a straight stitch (or elastic if the fabric is elastane), overlock (or zig-zag stitch), good mood- that's all you need!
Before we open natural fabrics Be sure to wash them as they shrink! When purchasing fabrics made from cotton, silk, or viscose, add 5-10 cm for an emergency. For fabrics with a pattern, another 10-15 cm will be required to be able to combine the pattern or its most favorable location.
Allowances for seams and hems are 1.5 cm. We transfer all the marks (middle of the front, back, collar) to the fabric, mark the location of the pockets hand stitches contrasting threads (they are then removed).
We sew in this order:
- we duplicate the hem, make darts on the shelf;
- we process the details of the pockets and sew them according to the markings to the shelf;
- we connect the yoke and the back part, make darts;
- we perform shoulder seams;
- duplicate and assemble the collar parts;
- we sew in a collar or decorate the neckline with a facing;
- sew in the sleeves;
- we connect the bottom seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the product with one seam;
- we process and sew the cuffs;
- we bend the bottom of the product;
- we sew out the loops and sew on the buttons.
Collecting compliments!
Photo by Shutterstock
Women's summer version of a shirt made of silk or cotton fabric You can add a bow, and also make a neckline or stand-up collar on it. If desired, you can apply Ukrainian or any other ornament to the shirt. You can sew a stylish women's shirt at home - quickly, easily and focusing on your own preferences.
Making a pattern for a women's shirt
For sewing women's shirt you will need:
- pattern;
- silk, cotton or linen piece of fabric;
- interlining;
- needles;
- threads;
- sewing machine and graph paper.
First of all, take measurements of the half-girth of the neck and chest, and also decide how long the sleeve, shoulder and the product itself will be. By finished pattern You should cut out the front, back and sleeves.
If you are sewing a feminine shirt, remove the darts from the pattern, make a blouse with reliefs and model puff sleeves. Don't forget to leave 5-7 cm on the shelves for fastening
Fold the fabric in half lengthwise. Arrange the parts so that you have two symmetrical parts for the sleeves and shelves. For a loose-fitting shirt, prepare one back piece folded in half. Cut out double rectangular cuffs lengthwise, 26–30 cm long and 14–20 cm wide, then cut out two collar pieces and two stand pieces, not forgetting the seam allowances.
We sew a women's shirt
Reinforce the upper parts of the stand, cuffs and collar with non-woven material, then fold the paired parts together and level them. Place the collar pieces with right sides facing each other, move the top piece down 2 mm, pin them in the center with a pin, sweep and stitch the pieces. Turn the collar inside out and iron it.
Place the stand pieces right sides together, pin them together and stitch them along the side seams. Baste and stitch the collar to the stand, then iron the seams, turn the product right side out and stitch the collar and stand. Repeat these manipulations with the cuffs. Topstitch the cuffs, 0.5 cm from the edge.
To place a button or cufflink on a cuff, make a vertical or horizontal slot for a buttonhole on it and overcast it (by hand with a buttonhole stitch or overlock stitch)
Fold the edges of the shelves intended for fastening and iron them. Baste and stitch the shoulder darts on the back. Place the front and back pieces right sides together. Baste the shoulder and side seams. Align the seams of the sleeves with the side seam of the shirt and sew in both sleeves. Then pin the middle of the back neckline to the middle of the sleeve stand.
Place the collar and shirt with right sides facing each other, then baste and stitch the outer side of the stand to the neckline. Press the seam. Fold the bottom edge of the inside of the post (pin the hem so you don't have to resew it later) to baste and stitch the post to it.
After attaching the stand, alternately baste and stitch the outer and inside cuff using the same method you used when sewing the stand. Finish the seams by hand or with an overlocker. Make loops in the shelves and sew buttons. The women's shirt is ready.
2018-04-26 Maria Novikova
For beginner tailors, it seems difficult to sew a men's shirt. Therefore, we have to abandon the idea of sewing a shirt with our own hands. Just imagine how many options for men's shirt models you can sew yourself. From classical to historical. In this master class I will tell you how to sew a men's shirt in the style of the 19th century. This sewing technology will help you sew not only historical, but also modern models. Based on it, you will step by step acquire the knowledge and experience of sewing a men's long-sleeved shirt.
You will need:
- Main fabric (staple or cotton fabric) – 1.80 – 2.0 m.
- Interlining adhesive collar fabric – 20.0 cm.
- Interlining woven adhesive fabric - 20.0 cm.
- Buttons – 9 – 10 pcs.
- Threads – 4 pcs.
- Tailor's pins and other sewing supplies.
- Sewing machine, overlock, iron.
Model selection
The style of the shirt was not chosen by chance. This is exactly the model the groom needed for a Jen Austen themed wedding. Was popular at that time romantic style in clothes. Men wore loose ones, long shirts or shirts with puffy sleeves and high, starched collars.
Tied around the collar neckerchief several times. In front, its ends were tied into a bow or a large knot. The high collar and multi-layered scarf sometimes led to the fact that half of the face was buried in this abundance. At that time, a white starched collar, a casually tied scarf and an elegant brooch were considered a sign of style and good taste.
Read more about the men's neckerchief and how it is worn in modern world, read.
My client wanted a Romantic era style shirt in his wardrobe to match the bride and her Empire style dress. This is how the idea of creating a historical shirt from the 19th century using modern materials and technologies was born.
Material selection
The fabric chosen for sewing the shirt was staple (cotton fabric with elastane). There were also stretch cotton contenders, but this fabric wrinkles a lot. The staple drapes perfectly, which suits this model perfectly, and it doesn’t wrinkle so much. It is pleasant, gentle on the body and almost weightless.
For the cuffs, yoke, collar and trims we had to use a different fabric, regular cotton, which matched the shade. The fact is that the store had the last piece of staple left, and it was only enough for the main parts. Therefore, it was decided to take the last scrap and ordinary cotton for small parts. Moreover, its dense structure is just what is needed to give clear shapes to details.
For the collar pad, I chose thick collar adhesive fabric. Thanks to its dense structure, it will give the collar a rigid look, and there will be no need to starch the collar.
For the cuffs and trims I used adhesive woven fabric. It is denser than regular “gauze” adhesive and holds its shape remarkably well. The structure of this fabric resembles gabardine with adhesive crumbs applied on top. It works wonderfully, doesn’t come off and doesn’t require the use of an ironing iron.
Cut the shirts
Cut details:
- Shelf – 2 parts.
- Back – 2 parts (due to lack of fabric, it can be made one-piece).
- Yoke – 2 parts.
- Sleeve – 2 parts.
- Cuff – 2 parts.
- Gasket for cuff – 2 parts.
- Plank – 2 parts.
- Gasket for the strip – 2 parts.
- Collar – 2 parts.
- Collar pad – 1 piece.
- Collar stand – 2 parts.
- Collar stand – 1 piece.
Description of the model: men's shirt in the style of the 19th century, made of cotton, white fabric, loose fit. The back and shelves at the top are gathered into a yoke, this gives the product additional volume and also serves as decoration. Sleeves, elongated at the cuff, are loose due to gathering at the hem and bottom. The shirt's clasp is finished with button straps, and the collar is shaped on a stand-up collar.
- Draw a yoke line on the back and shelf pattern. On the back the yoke will be wider than on the shelf: the width of the yoke on the shelf is 2.0 - 3.0 cm, on the back 10.0 - 12.0 cm.
- Cut along the marked lines (it is better to make a duplicate of the pattern in advance).
- On men's shirts, the shoulder seam is shifted to the shelf (there is no such seam). Take the back and front yoke parts and glue them along the shoulder seam. You will receive a finished yoke piece for the back and front without a shoulder seam.
- To get a gather on the back and front, add 4.0 - 6.0 cm at the top of the armhole to the side and move it smoothly down. You will find how to model a sleeve with gathering at the edge and bottom in my previous article.
- Lay out the finished patterns on the fabric, trace and add allowances:
- side, shoulder seams, middle seam, armholes, hem and sleeve seam - 1.0 - 1.5 cm;
- the upper cut of the shelf, back and yoke – 1.0 cm;
- neck, sides and bottom of sleeves – 0.7 cm;
- bottom of the product – 1.5 – 2.0 cm.
6. Remove the pattern, check the length/width of the product and sleeves. If everything is correct, cut out the parts taking into account the allowances. At this stage, small details (collar, placket, cuffs) are not cut out, but their mock-ups are made. Since during fitting, changes may occur, and then the cut out parts will have to be redone.
Sewing technology for men's shirts
Before you start sewing, you need to check the availability of cut details. If everything is correct, then you can start sewing a men's shirt. In individual tailoring, after cutting, the first fitting is always carried out. To make adjustments to the model and get a general idea of the future product.
Fitting is primarily carried out for the customer; sometimes clients who do not understand the sewing business cannot imagine the whole picture. And an experienced tailor sees the result of the finished product immediately in his mind. Therefore, the first fitting is very important, especially if the product is non-standard with various finishing elements. Remember! The maximum result depends on the quality of the fitting and general understanding with the client.
Preparing for the first fitting
Stitch or baste the middle back seam (if there is one). Assemble the assembly along the upper cut of the back and shelves, baste with one part of the yoke (the second is not needed yet). Assemble the ruffle along the hem and the bottom of the sleeves. Baste the sleeves into the open armhole, basting the sleeve seams and side seams in one step. Cut out the cuffs and collar from the mock-up fabric. Baste the cuffs to the sleeves and baste the collar.
First fitting
Unfortunately, there are no fitting photos for this shirt. Therefore, the following photos will be of a men's shirt made of silk fabric, classic model(the fitting process is almost the same). Place the shirt over the figure and pin the panels in the center, matching the top and bottom. Make changes to the volume of the shirt, if necessary, take the excess into the side seams.
The photo shows a fitting for a sleeveless shirt. In the classic model, the sleeves can be pinned during fitting (right sleeve) to clarify the shoulder line. In men, this point is usually slightly lowered, it depends on the model.
- if the model is very fitted, the end shoulder rises up (as in women's products);
- if the model is loose, then the shoulder point goes down, so the shoulder turns out to be lowered;
- If this is not done, for example, you lower the shoulder too much in a fitted model, then horizontal folds from the armhole will appear, and the shoulders will look too wide.
After this, check the length and width of the sleeves, as well as the length and shape of the hem. Pay attention to the shape of the collar, neck depth (front and back) and cuff size. After trying on, lay the product out on a flat surface and note any changes. You will learn how to properly carry out the first fitting from my article: .
Processing the yoke
Sew the middle seam, overcast the edge and press the seam allowance.
Found some unfamiliar words? Then refer to and.
Gather the top edge and adjust the gather to fit the yoke.
The yoke is double, so first we process one part, then the second. Take one piece of the yoke, align the right side with the wrong side of the back, pin and stitch.
Here's what happens:
Gather the upper sections of the shelves and adjust the gathering to the yoke.
Sew the shelves with the back yoke, iron the allowances on the yoke without touching the gather with the iron.
Then sew the second yoke piece into the back seam. To do this, align the yoke and back with the right sides facing inward, pin together and stitch the joints of the first yoke into the seam. This way the seam should be between the two yokes. Remove the gathering threads, sweep the piping along the seam into the split and iron with an iron without disturbing the gathering.
Baste the loose edges of the yoke to the shelves. To do this, bend the sections by 1.0 cm and baste them to the shelves, covering the previous seam by 0.1-0.2 cm.
Place a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the fold. The finishing seam along the front yoke should cover the seam connecting to the yoke.
Press the seams carefully without disturbing the gathers.
Processing planks
The planks are cut along the length of the sides of the shelves, the cutting width is 6.5 - 7.5 cm. Also, each plank is glued with an adhesive gasket. The width of the 1st spacer is half the width of the strip, the length is the same. Using an iron, glue the adhesive pads onto the slats from the wrong side. Then iron the strips in half lengthwise on the right side.
Sew the strips to the sides of the shelves in one layer, first the side with the gasket. To do this, align the front side of the strip with the front side of the bead, pin and stitch the strip by 0.5 - 0.7 cm.
To avoid thickening at the seams, peel off the interfacing allowance by hand and trim it to the seam. Iron the seam allowance onto the placket.
Then fold and baste the free cut of the strip to the product, closing the seam by 0.1 - 0.2 cm.
On the front side of the plank, place a finishing stitch 0.1 cm from the seam, so that the hem falls under the seam.
Place a finishing stitch along the edge 0.1 cm.
When finished, remove the temporary threads and iron the strips.
Sewing a shirt collar
The collar consists of an upper and lower collar. Cut out 2 collar pieces from the main fabric, 2 stand-up pieces, 1 collar piece and stand-up stands from adhesive collar fabric. Parts made of cushioning fabric should be 0.5 - 0.7 cm smaller than the main ones. The lower collar is 0.2 - 0.3 cm smaller than the upper one. The collar stand is cut along the length of the neck, the collar is 1.25 - 1.5 cm shorter than the stand (in half size).
Apply adhesive pad to the top collar and stand.
Pin the top and bottom collars together, then topstitch with a seam width of 0.5 cm.
Cut out the corners, turn right side out, straighten the corners, sweep out the piping using the top collar and iron.
Place a finishing stitch along the collar 0.1 cm from the edge. Remove basting threads and iron again.
Connect the collar stand (the one with the spacer) to the bottom collar side. Then take the second post piece and connect it from the top collar side. Sew on a machine, grinding down the curves of the stand.
Turn right side out so the seam is on the inside.
Collar-neck connection
Pin the stand-up collar into the neckline, align the centers of the collar with the center of the back, and the ends of the stand-up with the sides of the shelves. Baste and stitch the collar into the neckline from the side of the upper collar, seam width 0.7 cm.
Fold the free cut of the lower collar stand and baste it to the neckline, overlapping the stitching seam by 0.1 - 0.2 cm. At the same time, sweep the piping into the split along the stand.
Sew stitches 0.1 cm along the post, securing the folded edge.
Remove the temporary threads and press the seams.
Processing cuts on sleeves
To process the cuts on the sleeves, you need to cut out bias braid or trim for processing. Bias binding is cut at a 45 degree angle from the main fabric along the length of the cut, 3.5 cm wide.
To make a cut, fold the sleeves together, step back from the elbow seam of the sleeve 6.0 - 7.0 cm (from the back or back half). Draw a perpendicular 10.0 - 12.0 cm up. Cut along the marked line.
Edge the cut with bias tape.
On the wrong side, secure the top of the cut at an angle.
On the front side, carefully iron the cut, but do not move the iron back and forth, otherwise you will stretch the binding.
Process the cut on the second sleeve in the same way.
Connection with sleeves
Baste and stitch the sleeves into the open armhole, stitching the edges on the side of the product.
Finish sleeve seams and side seams in one go. Iron seam allowances to the back.
Processing the bottom of the sleeves with cuffs
Cut cuffs from the main fabric, glue half of the cuffs with an adhesive pad and sew the edges. The cuff is a rectangle 16.0 cm wide (with allowances), length 28.0 cm (the length depends on the circumference of the wrist, it is specified during the fitting).
Gather the bottom of the sleeve and connect the cuff to the sleeve. Align the right side of the cuff (the one with the interfacing) with the right side of the sleeve and pin together.
In the era of romanticism, a gentleman was required to change his tailcoat every three weeks, his hat every month, and his shoes every week. To become a full-fledged “socialite” and “dandy”, it was necessary to comply with all these requirements, which wealthy people could afford. The ability to sew clothes with your own hands largely solves the financial problem of purchasing clothes. Thanks to your desire, you can sew any shirt with your own hands for your man or for yourself.
In the 19th century, men were expected to look elegant and neat. Fashionistas of that time did not skimp on expensive and high-quality clothes. They generously spent time and money on purchasing trendy items. Fashion magazines recommended that modern dandies have a couple of toilets for every day.
Every year fashion offered new colors in the suit, and new accessories. Sometimes fashionistas went into debt to comply with all the rules of etiquette. Nowadays, you can only see a man in an expensive suit in business circles, where there is a strict dress code appearance. My master class will help you sew a jacket like in the photo: .
During the period of romanticism, there was “romantic negligence” in men’s suits. This is the ability to wear a suit with the collar of the shirt unbuttoned, hair down, tailcoat unbuttoned, etc. Such a relaxed manner of wearing clothes meant independence from everyday trifles and secular principles. First of all, they preferred to see intellectual qualities in a person.
I hope this article will help you make your dream come true, and I will be pleased to see your subscription and your comment.
P.S. Did you like the master class?!
Best regards, Maria Novikova.
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I would be grateful if you use the buttons:
Not difficult. Gradually migrating to women's wardrobe, such an item of clothing as a shirt has acquired a lot of variations and styles. By decorating it with some details, you can get a romantic or democratic style. Thus, this toilet detail can even become a blouse. But its basis is always the same - a classic shirt pattern. We'll get to know her now.
Necessary measurements and how to take them correctly
In order to create a shirt pattern, you need to take measurements. They are removed directly from the person for whom the future product is sewn. Measurements are the values obtained by measuring the girth or length of parts of the body with a centimeter tape.
So, we measure the neck, placing it at the level of the collarbone and the protruding cervical vertebra behind. We write down the resulting value. In the future, we record all measurement values on paper with maximum accuracy; it depends on them that the shirt is sewn correctly.
Measuring your waist and hips is quite easy. It is worth remembering that the hips and chest are measured at the most prominent points.
The length of the product is measured from the mid-thigh line parallel to the spine, and the length of the back is measured to the waist.
Building a shirt front
Construct a pattern for a women's shirt if you know that its main part consists of three elements - the back and two shelves in front. The shelves are two halves connected by a clasp.
On a large sheet of paper we draw a pattern for a women's shirt, starting from the shelf.
- Let's carry out horizontal line, the length of which is equal to the waist circumference. Let's sign the line.
- On the right we will leave 5 cm and put a point through which we will draw a vertical line in the middle of the front.
- Along this line we put the values up and down to get the length of the product. Let's put points.
- Draw a perpendicular from the top point to the left.
- Let's plot the neck circumference along it and mark it with a dot.
- From the starting point, it is necessary to set aside the depth of the neck, which is approximately 1 cm greater than the circumference of the neck.
- From the end point of the neck circumference, set the length of the shoulder to the left.
- And from the end point of the shoulder downwards we measure 4 cm. We connect the beginning and end of the shoulder line so that it turns out to be beveled down.
- From the waist line along the mid-front line downwards, we set aside the hip circumference.
- From the found point to the left we draw a perpendicular, which will be the line of the hips.
Building the back of the shirt
The pattern for the back will be slightly wider than the shelf. It is much easier to build.
Calculation of the width of the elements relative to the chest line
It is impossible to make a pattern for a women's shirt without checking the measurements you received. The width of the product in this case is much more important than its length.
We make a small increase to the chest girth (7-8 cm), divide the amount by 4. The width of the shelf will be equal to this figure increased by 2 cm, and for the back you should subtract 2 cm from the resulting number. Let's put these values aside along the chest line and mark them with dots. The same values at the waist will be a couple of centimeters less, since the waist is narrower than the chest.
Calculation of the width of the elements relative to the hip line
In this case, points are applied to the pattern of a women's shirt, the location of which is calculated in the same way as the previous one. The only difference is that at the end you need to draw the side line, connecting the waist, hips and chest at the extreme points.
And finally, it remains to add a few small touches to the drawing:
- Create a random dart on the chest.
- Smoothly draw a line from the edge of the shoulder to the edge of the chest line. This will be the armhole of the shirt. The sleeve is sewn here.
- Draw a dart from the waist to the hip line, 1 cm wide.
- The “waist” dart on the back is located from the hip line to the middle of the side.
- We deepen and widen the neck a little.
- Constructing a placket for the button line parallel to the middle of the front.
You can create a pattern for a women's shirt quickly and easily, if you show persistence and care. This is accessible even to a novice seamstress. It is enough to understand a woman’s shirt once, in order to develop more complex models of shirts and blouses on its basis.
