Traditional women's Genoese dress in "blue jeans" (1890s)
Initially, jeans were made from English or American-made hemp canvas, which became significantly cheaper due to the decline of the sailing fleet. It is thanks to this material that jeans have gained fame as exceptionally durable clothing. Subsequently, hemp was replaced by cotton, and by the beginning of the “jeans revolution” in world fashion (1960s), hemp fabric was no longer widely used in their production.
Etymology
The word "jeans" represents a Russian formation based on Americanism jeans. Back in the 16th century, cotton twill with diagonal weave jean, a special type of Genoese paper, was known in Europe. From the Italian “gene” the word “jane” appeared in Old French and from there it passed into English.
The name of the material was derived from the toponym Genoa. The fabric itself was produced in France, in the city of Nimes, Genoa supplied the dye - indigo.
The word entered the Russian language in the second half of the 20th century.
Story
Historians have long traced the origins of jeans by their names in English: denim And jeans. The first points to the French city of Nîmes, which was famous for its durable fabrics, the second to the Italian Genoa with its textile factories.
The first jeans appeared among American loaders. Archaeological research has so far yielded nothing; In written sources, only fragmentary information has been preserved that in the middle of the 17th century, supplies of cheap fabric of this type were carried out from Genoa to Northern Europe (especially to England). Images of supposedly denim clothing (a woman in a denim skirt and a boy in a denim jacket, through the holes of which the light lining is visible) were discovered by art historians in the paintings of an unknown Italian master of the mid-17th century, conventionally called the “Master of Blue Jeans.”
First of all, residents of Moscow and Leningrad became acquainted with jeans, where foreign tourists and students began to appear earlier than anyone else. Delegations traveled abroad more often from these two capitals. Therefore, Western things appeared first among the residents of these cities and a number of ports - Odessa, Kaliningrad, Vladivostok. Also, it was in these cities that Beryozka stores began to open for the first time in 1964, where the assortment also included jeans.
During these same years, jeans began to be mentioned in the works of domestic writers and poets: Vasily Aksenov, Evgeny Yevtushenko. In 1963, during the famous meeting of Khrushchev with the creative intelligentsia, Nikita Sergeevich reproached Andrei Voznesensky for coming to the meeting in jeans.
Industrial products
How is denim fabric stored at the factory?
Automatic cutting machines are used in the RMG factory to cut pieces.
P P Spray and P P Bonding is applied to jeans to give them a new look.
Adding 3D crunch, whiskers and wrinkles to jeans to make them look more conventional.
Applying permanent wrinkles to jeans.
You must emphasize that the company spent *** thousand rubles on this! - demanded a familiar female voice on the phone.
“There are too many numbers, the audience will get confused,” I tried to object.
- No, Seryozha, you must mention this.
- Why am I obligated? - I was already starting to get excited.
- And from the fact that they pay you money for it! - the female voice almost switched to falsetto.
“They don’t pay me for THIS,” I answered and hung up. This was my last paid story, in which someone else’s point of view was imposed on me. Paid, of course, not to me. Which, in general, did not change the essence. Yes, I once periodically took off my jeans.
"Jeans" are not only specially sewn material. In journalism, this term refers to a paid story. Sometimes this is also called "ordering". No, not advertising at all. Such a report appears in the general news release, but was filmed for money and in the interests of the customer. So that the viewer does not guess that this plot was paid for, it goes without the special interruption required in such cases. At least so that not every viewer can understand. Of course, this violates media and advertising laws. But who cares?
Part of the shares of the Apex-TV television company, in which I then worked, belonged to Evrazholding. Now it is owned by Mr. Abramovich. Before this, Mr. Abramov. There is little difference, as you can see. In addition, in Novokuznetsk, Evrazholding owned two largest metallurgical plants - KMK and ZSMK, and mines in the south of Kuzbass. Enterprises required modernization, which cost a lot of money. And the mines were completely unprofitable. But it was impossible to fire all the workers at once - this meant a social revolt. Therefore, they were fired gradually. Money was invested from time to time. And so that there would be no rebellion, the population was told about each such investment. Including through the television company where I worked at that time.
I had to travel to metallurgical plants. But most of all I had to travel around the mines. I fell in love with the press service of the company that was responsible for them - Evrazruda (a subsidiary of Evrazholding). A corrupt journalist, you say? Formally, you have every right. But we had an unspoken agreement with the press service. At least that's what I thought. They come up with an informational reason. And I shoot the way I see it. As a journalist, I visited all the mines and more than once all these small villages and towns in the south of Kuzbass - in Kaz, Tashtagol, Sheregesh.
The news stories were sometimes stupid. One day we were invited to film a story about exceeding the plan before the New Year. It looked like this: against the backdrop of a shabby Christmas tree, the miners were presented with certificates. For exceeding the plan. Without exaggeration, this is exactly what it looked like. Well, you can’t make a report out of this. Well, honestly, no one is interested in this. Surely, if you saw such a picture, you would immediately change the channel. Let’s go down into the mine and film the miners at work, I said, quietly swearing to myself, not because we needed to go down, but because the press service was not prepared. And at the same time, I was thinking about how this plot could be turned around. And as a result, I descended to such a depth where even the miners themselves did not work. I stood in the mine shaft at the lowest level on a thin sheet of tin. And he talked about the working conditions. And under this sheet of iron there was emptiness. Water was pouring from above. And the cameraman, as I remember now, did not dare to join me, so I wrote the stand-up below, and he filmed from above. How I got there, I won’t tell you all these extreme details. And all this for the sake of “jeans”.
I am in no way trying to make any special excuses. Yes, I shot jeans. I shot custom stories. I was just trying to somehow transform these stories from “custom” ones into informational and interesting ones for the viewer. And most importantly - honest. I have mastered allegorical language perfectly. Because in a custom story you cannot show an inconvenient truth. But you can give a hint. Yes, I also mastered the technique of hints. One good thing about all these techniques is that those who ordered the plots do not understand them. But the bad thing is that not all viewers recognize these hints. Of course, I also shot regular reports. After all, “jeans” is not an everyday task. But sometimes they are also “denim”. And then Internews happened in my life.
After I graduated from Internews, when I arrived, I immediately announced that I would not shoot jeans anymore. The editor was fuming and screaming. He shouted that he would fire me. No, he didn’t say anything to my face. They told me about this.
I'll be honest, I didn't keep my word. I shot several more custom stories. But I forgot how to hint. Or maybe I’m just tired of hinting. And they probably figured me out. And after that there was this phone call. Lena Kobeleva called. Evrazruda press service employee. I once worked with her at the city newspaper "Frant". I was then in charge of the youth editorial office. And she was still young and promising, but already an experienced journalist. But then she went to the press service. And we had a good relationship. But after the phrase “They pay you money for this,” I didn’t listen any further and hung up. And not at all because I really wasn’t paid separately for these stories. I then thought only of one thing: Lena, how does this happen, after all, just a year and a half ago you were a journalist like me, and now we speak different languages...
Then Lena’s boss, Zhenya Friedrich, called and apologized. I know why. The unspoken agreement was based on this: they give me relative freedom in exchange for my experience. But I stopped going to the mines. And soon he quit altogether and left the city.
After moving from Novokuznetsk, I shot jeans a couple more times. And you can throw tomatoes at me again. Once - while working at my favorite television company "TV-2". I learned that the plot was “custom” only after I had already filmed it. Producer Lena Izofatova did not warn me in advance. And I can guess why. She most likely thought that after this I would refuse to go to the shoot. But in this case, one way or another, I didn’t have to adapt to anyone. It was an editorial task, there was an informational occasion. No one influenced how I talk about this. It also happened in the second case - already in the Russian News Service. Congress of the Patriots of Russia party. There is no need to praise, they told me right away. All I had to do was tell him what I saw. And I told you. Apparently. Now the main thing for this party is at least a mention.
During all this time, “jeans” have not disappeared anywhere. On the contrary, it has become an integral part of Russian journalism. And now, watching federal channels, I can say with 99% certainty whether the story is custom-made or not. How much does such pleasure cost? In those days, with my salary of seven and a half thousand, one story I filmed brought the television company 60 thousand. I know this for sure; official papers were passed through me a couple of times. You can try to index it to current salaries. This was called “information cooperation” back then. Now. I think it's somewhat similar.
You shouldn't judge journalists who film "jeans" harshly. Everyone judges journalists. And I’ll tell you honestly, few of them like such “orders”. Well, if only someone who has people, horses and, perhaps, hamsters mixed in his head. No one judges editors-in-chief or channel owners. No one judges the advertising and information committees or the prosecutor's office. But everyone knows and understands everything perfectly. And they even order. You think. The prosecutor's office doesn't buy jeans? Maybe not for money, but he buys it. Whoever needs it knows about it all. In the end, “jeans” is broadcast at the highest level - on federal channels. However, on federal channels there are also things that are shown in comparison with which “jeans” are petty amusements.
I've been wanting to write about this for a long time. I wanted to, but didn’t dare. And I know very well that much of what is written is known. But perhaps not everyone knows. Now you can obstruct me.
Other definitions of advertising
Advertising is paid, non-personalized communication carried out by an identified sponsor and using the media with the aim of persuading (to something) or influencing (somehow) an audience.
Narrower definitions are also used, for example, limited only to goods and services. Sometimes the definition includes such a feature as commercial interests.
Advertising task- induce representatives of the target audience to take action (choosing a product or service, making a purchase, etc., as well as forming conclusions about the object of advertising planned by the advertiser).
Types of advertising
According to the legislation of the Russian Federation according to the object of advertising
- commercial advertising
- social advertising aimed at achieving charitable and other socially beneficial goals, as well as ensuring the interests of the state
- political advertising (including election advertising)
Private advertisements, that is, advertisements of individuals or legal entities not related to business activities, in accordance with the Law on Advertising (Article 2, paragraph 6) are not considered as advertising.
By location and method of placement
Specific types of advertising by purpose
- Counter-advertising is a refutation of inappropriate advertising. In the Russian Federation it is provided as a punishment for inappropriate advertising
- Anti-advertising is information designed not to raise, but to reduce interest, or to discredit goods, enterprises, trademarks. In Russia it is prohibited by advertising law.
Regulation
In advertising, various financial and political interests inevitably collide. The consumer is interested in reducing the amount of advertising and reducing its intrusiveness. The manufacturer, on the contrary, is interested in increasing both the amount of advertising and audience coverage.
The interests of society as a whole require that consumers be protected from false and deceptive advertising. The same interests dictate the need to stimulate sales, the main means of which is advertising. The contradiction of these interests requires detailed regulation. Advertising legislation in all countries represents a compromise between the above interests.
Advertising: Pros and Cons
For
Against
Story
Advertising in the USSR
But, despite the politicization, despite the planned economy, commercial advertising still occupied a prominent place in the USSR. Most advertising was published during the NEP. But in other periods, advertising was also created and distributed.
The proverbial advertising slogan “ Fly with Aeroflot aircraft" - not only due to the prevalence of this advertising, but also because of its dubious commercial value - Aeroflot was the only air carrier in the country, so the text sounded somewhat ironic (although the essence of this slogan was not in competition with absent alternative airlines, but in competition with by rail and road transport).
Those who lived in Soviet times probably remember other catchphrases from advertising:
- “Nowhere except in Mosselprom”
- “I saved up and bought a car”
and others.
Notes
See also
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Jeans (English – jeans) – trousers made of thick cotton fabric, most often dyed in indigo color. Equipped with rivets at the joints of the pocket seams. The inventor of jeans is Levi Strauss, who first made them as work wear in 1853.
History of jeans
According to historians, back in the 15th century, Italian sailors wore pants made of canvas. This fabric became widespread in clothing due to the decline of the sailing fleet and the uselessness of sewing sails. Later, such pants began to be called “Jenes”, and then “jeans” - in the American manner. These words come from the name of the Italian city of Genoa, where canvas was produced.
In 1750, the “Book of Samples of the Textile Industry of France” was published, which describes eight types of pants that are very reminiscent of modern jeans.
The history of jeans the way we are used to seeing them now is associated with the name of a Belgian immigrant of Jewish origin, the son of a tailor, Leib Strauss, who arrived in America in 1853. American sailors nicknamed 24-year-old Leib Levi Strauss while still on the ship. Upon arrival in the USA, Levi had with him only a roll of canvas, which he inherited from his father, from which, in order to somehow feed himself, Strauss began to sew custom-made tents.
One day, a tipsy gold miner told Levi that if he had good-quality pants, he could spend the night in them under a tree, and not in a tent. Without thinking twice, Levi Strauss, remembering the skills passed on to him by his father, sewed his first canvas pants and sold them to a worker. Their price was 1 dollar and 20 cents.
The canvas pants from Strauss turned out to be really good quality, so the tailor soon had other customers.
In the same 1853, Levi Strauss opened his first workshop-atelier in San Francisco, on Battery Street, where he sewed pants for workers. Strauss himself traveled to gold mining settlements, offering his products and gradually improving them in accordance with the wishes of clients. This is how belt loops, durable double stitching, and deep front and back pockets appeared on the pants.
In 1860, demand for Levi Strauss's products fell sharply. This was caused by the fact that the pockets of the products quickly came off from the weight of gold nuggets and tools that the workers carried with them. This is how the name of another person appeared in the history of jeans - Jacob Davis. He came up with a special device that made his pants pockets much stronger. Jacob attached iron rivets from horse harnesses to the joints of the seams on the pockets of the products. Since Jacob himself was not wealthy enough to patent his invention, he did it together with Levi Strauss. This is how rivets appeared on the fly, front, and then back pockets of jeans.
In 1873, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis received patent number 139121, registered by the US Patent and Trademark Office, for the production of “strapless work overalls with pockets for a knife, money and watches.”.
A little later, Levi Strauss began to sew jeans not from canvas, but from dense cotton fabric with a diagonal weave - twill, otherwise called “denim”.
In 1886, a leather label appeared on jeans. Around the same time, the San Francisco gold mines dried up, meaning there was nothing left for gold miners to do there. Thus, jeans trickled down to the masses, becoming clothing for ordinary people.
In 1926, Lee revolutionized the world of jeans with the first zipper front jeans, the 1012.
In 1941, crotch studs disappeared from jeans because, according to workers, they became very hot from the fire and could damage the skin.
During World War II, jeans in America were made and sold only for combatants, as a result of which the pants became part of the US Army uniform.
In 1953, the first women's jeans in Europe from the Mustang brand appeared in Germany.
In the 60s of the twentieth century, the fashion for jeans returned to the masses, becoming an attribute of the image of representatives of such subcultures as. A little later, jeans began to be dyed not only in indigo, but also in any other colors. In the late 60s, Louis Ferro introduced jeans completely embroidered with rhinestones to the general public. From this time on, a new era begins in the history of jeans, which revolutionized the fashion world and became one of the most popular wardrobe items of our time.
Textile
Initially, jeans were made from thick Italian or French hemp canvas due to its cheapness. Later, canvas was replaced by dense cotton fabric - twill. By the beginning of the 60s of the twentieth century, at the height of the denim boom, all jeans were made only from it.
Twill - (from Latin sericus - silk) - cotton, silk or artificial fabric with diagonal weave of threads. This canvas was made around 300 AD. e. in the French city of Nimes. Serge de Nimes - the serge from Nimes was destined to go down in history. After 1500 years, jeans began to be made from this fabric, and it itself began to be called “denim”, after the name of the city - de Nimes.
Other types of denim:
- chambry– a type of denim, soft and thin denim;
- broken twill- herringbone denim, invented John Walker and first used by Wrangler;
- acre- undyed cotton fabric, natural denim;
- stretch- fabric made from a mixture of cotton and elastane or lycra;
- gin- another type of denim, cheap, evenly dyed fabric, the threads are woven diagonally.
Models (varieties)
Currently, there are a large number of varieties of jeans. They vary in fit and style:
- classic jeans Easy fit– fits the hips, the legs are slightly tapered at the ankle, the waistline is slightly low;
- classic comfort fit jeans– looser, straight legs, higher waistline;
- five pocket classic jeans(Five-pockets) - model from Levi's number 501. Straight on a fairly wide belt with five or nine decorative metal rivets on the front and back pockets. The jeans have 5 pockets: 2 on the back, 2 on the front and a small watch pocket on the back of the right front pocket;
- flared jeans(Flare cut) - fit (but not tight) the leg to the knee or mid-calf and noticeably widen towards the ankle, usually sitting just below the waist;
- Bootcut jeans– elongated, tight-fitting hips, with a low waistline and with trouser legs flaring below the knee, covering the boots with two fingers;
- bell jeans(Bell bottom) - they fit the leg to the knee, and are strongly flared from the knee, the style gained popularity in the 70s;
- skinny jeans(Skinny jeans) got their name because of their very tight silhouette, hugging the figure tightly, both in the hips and in the legs;
- Loose fit– very spacious jeans along the entire length, so wide at the bottom that they almost completely cover the shoes;
- Baggy fit– baggy, extremely wide jeans, with the effect of lowered pants;
- Bib– jumpsuit with straps;
- Cargo– jeans with voluminous patch pockets;
- Saggy fit– jeans with a hanging codpiece;
- Sta Prest- jeans with an “eternal” arrow, which were released for the first time in the 60s in Knoxville (USA). Polyester is added to their fabric; the trousers are “baked” using a special technology in such a way that even after numerous washes, the arrow remains in place.
