30.12.202127.05.2017

Honestly, I didn’t even expect so many comments, questions, letters and orders! I am very happy about everything that is happening, since I have so many like-minded people and students. We will develop and move only forward!

However, I will put the 3d pattern tutorials aside for a bit and go back to the basics. You can't go anywhere without them. That’s why I offer you a series of articles about transferring darts for your reference (for experienced) and study (for beginners). The series, since it’s simply not realistic to fit into one article with all the modeling options :)

And I’m not suggesting this topic by chance, because during my “absence” from the blog, I often received emails with the question “how to move a dart?” You have seen more than once in video tutorials on creating patterns how this is done, but I couldn’t somehow structure everything. I hope now it will be easier for you to find what interests you.

Transfer of chest dart

Most often, to create some beautiful pattern, we need to move the chest dart, since in the basic dress pattern it is located in a very unoriginal way.

Option #1. Transferring the chest dart to the waist dart.

This move is very useful when you are creating a product that is cut at the waist. The dart goes away from the top, and a seam goes down from the chest to the waist. An example of such a translation can be seen on this dress:

Now how to transfer the dart from the chest to the waist:

And this is what should happen:

Remove the line along the “former” chest dart. They won't be needed anymore.

How to make such a dart can be seen in the article “” + video tutorial (translation of the dart at approximately 11:36 min.).

This option is convenient in cut-off models because the lower part of the waist dart is not taken into account here. Therefore, it is easier to separate the bottom and then sew it into the top.

Option #2. Transferring the chest dart to the side seam.

It is quite difficult to find examples of such translation of darts - they are very hard to see. But this helps when the dart needs to be kept in volume. That is, do not delete it at all, but only hide it.

With this dart modeling, we transfer the chest dart into the side seam, and with a dart at the waist we have two options:

leave it in place (convenient for a tight-fitting dress);
remove the dart (for a loose fit);
transfer the upper part of the dart to the chest, then transfer the general dart to the side seam, and transfer the lower part to the side seam (remove it, and remove the size of the dart opening from the side, connect it to the hip line).

Now step by step how to transfer a dart:

The result is this:

Do you remember now what a tuck looks like? By the way, you can see how it is built (+ video).

Option #3. Transferring the chest dart to the sleeve armhole

This type of translation of a dart is also called the translation of a dart into relief. Since the parts are cut out separately and sewn according to the type of relief, and not with a regular seam. That is, we sewed the sides together as usual, turned one side over and stitched along the front side. This translation looks very beautiful, both on dresses and blouses, and of course on jackets.

Algorithm for transferring a dart to a sleeve armhole:

It's up to you to decide what to do with the dart at the waist. You can cut the dress to the hem line (we lower the perpendicular from the end of the dart at the waist) or leave it as is.

An example of converting a dart into relief can be seen (+ video tutorial).

Option number 4. Transferring the chest dart to the neckline

Transfer to the neck can also be very in an interesting way. It can be simply translated (according to the type of relief), or it can be designed both in the form of folds and assemblies. As your heart desires :)

An example of the simplest translation in this dress

For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle

Constructing a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)

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Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewn a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for myself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

THAT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new, easy way (I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for creating a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I won’t give you a single finished pattern!

I'm not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.

Yes- sewing yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But wasn't very friendly school years with geometry and drawing. Even I, who adores both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))

But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.

No confusing formulas
No confusing calculations.
And without the letter-number cobweb.

So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?

I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice stroll through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.

I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.

And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.

This is how it happens in the fashion world.

One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.

By the way - since we're talking about round yoke— on this site there is already one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And in the end it is born new model(photo below) – also very beautiful. And it's very simple.

You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?

That's why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point...” - ugh!).

I want to awaken you bitch. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line serves, and why it is located here and drawn this way.

After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's like you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you’ll take up the drawing with the feeling that it’s a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!

As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”

So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and familiar simple drawing - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.

And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.

Yes, in Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.

First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.

Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, meet - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains acceptable minimum size armholes. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.

Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the darts.

DARTS ON THE BACK – shoulder dart + waist dart

In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.

Let's get to know each other next... DARTS ON HALF FRONT

Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.

I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How it happens.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this flat circle of cardboard will now become convex with the help of a dart.

And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail

You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress of your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.

But that's not all what I want to say about the chest dart.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.

Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.

Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?))) Or else there will be more... Let's continue our walk through the pattern and now let's get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)

The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:

We know that we finish drawing the back waist dart at the bust line.
We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
We know that the shoulder dart is in the front - we finish drawing it at the chest line.
We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.

Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I am all these simple rules I'll give it to you when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).

As you can see, there’s a lot of everything!! Therefore, go ahead - study, sew and enjoy life)))

WHAT TO DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASE? - you ask

And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series. So to be continued)))

Happy sewing!

Fashion moves forward day after day, style and style change women's dresses. The new designs are a bit embellished, but the basic pattern remains the same.

Nowadays, it is quite difficult to look irresistible and have in your wardrobe that thing that only you will have, since the stores are overflowing with monotonous styles of dresses. But there is a way out of this situation - sew your own favorite model from the fabric you like. And this thing will be in a single copy, that is, you will definitely not meet a girl in the same dress anywhere and will not find yourself in an awkward situation.

Many are sure that this is impossible, but this opinion is wrong. There is no difficulty in creating your own wardrobe, and, accordingly, saving a lot of money spent on exclusive fashion items.

Dress patterns are known only in two versions - simple and complex models. For beginners, it is best to start sewing with simple things. First of all, they can be worn both everyday and for any special occasion. Secondly, they will never go out of style. Simple patterns dresses for beginners can be found in our article.

Rules for taking measurements

When starting to create a pattern, you need to take measurements from the model.

Half neck circumference. It is necessary to measure the base of the neck and write down the size of half the measured measurement. That is, if you get 36 cm, then you need to write down 18 cm.
Half bust. We measure along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades and the high part of the chest. This measurement is responsible for the size of your figure. You also need to write down half.
Waist, half girth. You need to measure the narrowest point at the waist, and also write down half of the resulting size.
Hips, half girth. We measure at the protruding buttock points. It is worth considering the bulge of the abdomen. The measurement is also recorded as half of the result obtained.
We measure the height of the back to the waist line. We start measuring from the seventh cervical vertebra, it is noticeable along the protrusion, to the waist line. IN in this case the measurement is recorded in full.
Back width. Using the protruding points of the shoulder blades, we measure the width of the back, from one axillary area to the other. Half of the result obtained is recorded as a measurement.
Measure the front height to the waistline. Along the protruding point of the chest, starting from the base of the neck at the shoulder, to the waist line. The measurement is recorded in full size.
Chest height. We place the edge of the measuring tape at the base of the neck and measure the height to the high point of the chest. We write down the measurement completely.
Center point of the chest. Measure horizontally between the two highest points of the chest. The measurement is recorded as half of the result obtained.
Determine the length of the shoulder. Measure from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. Write down the measurement in full.
Arm circumference. You need to measure your arm circumference approx. armpit. The measure is taken into account completely.
Wrist circumference. The wrist joint is measured around the circumference. The measure is fully used.
We measure the length of the sleeve to the elbow. Measure from the joint at the shoulder and down to the elbow. We write down the measurement in full.
Sleeve length. It is necessary to measure, also starting from the joint on the shoulder and going down to the hand. The measure is fully used.
Determine the length of the product. It is necessary to measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the required finished length. The measure is also fully used.
Increases for a loose fit:

Chest line - 5 cm.
Waist - 1 cm.
Hips - 2 cm.

Constructing a pattern

To create dress patterns for beginners, you need to use a large sheet of paper. If this is not the case, then you can take unnecessary remnants of wallpaper.

On the left, set aside the length of your dress; for ease of work, step back a couple of centimeters from the edge. Mark the delayed length with points A (top) and H (bottom). To the right of points A and H, draw perpendicular lines.

Determine the width of the dress pattern

To do this, you need to put off the “half chest girth” measurement from point A to the right side plus an increase in the chest line of 5 cm, put point B. We put the same measurement from point H towards the right and get point H1, connect points B and H1 with a straight line . As a result, you should end up with a rectangle.

We measure the length of the back to the waist

It is necessary to measure from point A downwards the size to the waist of the back length, adding half a centimeter, and mark with point T. From the resulting point to the right, draw a perpendicular to line B and H1 and mark the intersection with point T1.

Determining the hip line

We measure from point T downward half the measurement “to the waist of the back length” and mark it with point B. Also from the resulting point we draw a perpendicular to the right to line B and H1, marking the intersection point as B1.

Determining the width of the back

From point A towards the right, measure the “back width” + an increase along the back line of 1.5 centimeters and place point A1. From it downwards we draw a perpendicular line of arbitrary length.

We measure the width of the armhole

It is necessary to divide the “half chest girth” measurement into 4 parts + 0.5 cm, put the resulting result to the right of point A1 and place point A2. From point A2 downwards we draw a perpendicular line of arbitrary length.

Determine the neckline cut from the back side

Divide the “half-circumference of the neck” measurement into three parts and add half a centimeter, put the resulting result from point A to the right, mark it with point A3. Next, we divide the “half neck girth” measurement into 10 parts plus 0.8 cm and measure the resulting result from point A3 upwards, we get point A4. The resulting angle at point A3 must be divided in half by a straight line and the result plotted on it: divide the half-circumference of the neck by 10 and minus 0.3 cm, we get point A5. Next, we connect the resulting points A4, A5 and A with a smooth line.

Building a shoulder section

For high shoulders, it is necessary to set aside 1.5 cm from point A1, for normal - 2.5 cm, for sloping shoulders - 3.5 cm, mark with point P. Connect points A4 and P. The length of the shoulder plus the dart is set aside 2 cm from point A4, put point P1. On the resulting segment A4P1, we set aside 4 cm from point A4 and mark it with point O. From the resulting point in the downward direction we measure 8 cm and mark it with point O1 and to the right of point O 2 cm, mark it with point O2. Connect points O1 and O2. Through point O2 we set aside from point O1 a size equal to the length of the segment OO1 - 8 cm, mark point O3. This is necessary so that the darts on the dress are equal. We connect points O3 and P1 with a straight line.

Determining the depth of the armhole

We divide the half-circumference of the chest into 4 parts plus 7 cm, measure the resulting result from point P downward, mark with point G. Through this point we draw a horizontal line to the right and left sides. At the intersection with line B and H1 we mark point G3, with the armhole line - G2, and at the intersection with line A and H we put point G1.

Back, armhole cut

Divide the distance from point P to G into three parts plus 2 cm, measure the resulting result from point G in the upward direction, and mark it with point P2. Divide the “armhole width” measurement by 10 and +1.5 cm, put the resulting result away from point G, dividing the angle in half, mark point P3. We divide the segment GG2 into 2 parts and mark it with point G4. Next, connect points P1, P2, P3, G4 with a curved line.

Armhole, front half cut

Divide the “half chest girth” measurement into 4 parts plus 5 cm, put the resulting result from point G2 upward and mark it with point P4. We divide the half-circumference of the chest by 10, put the result obtained from point P4 towards the left and mark it with point P5. We divide the segment G2P4 by 3 and measure the result from point G2 upward. We connect points P5 and P6, divide them into two parts and, in the direction to the right, observing a right angle, measure 1 cm and mark point 1. Divide the angle from point G2 in half and measure a line equal to a tenth of the armhole width measurement +0.8 cm, mark with point P7. We connect the resulting points P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 with a curved line.

Front neck cut

Divide the “half chest girth” measurement in half +1.5 cm, mark on the pattern from point G3 upwards and mark with point B1. We measure exactly the same distance from point G2 in the upward direction and mark point B2. Connect the resulting points B1, B2 to each other. Divide the “half-circumference of the neck” measurement into three and +0.5 cm, measure from point B1 in the direction to the left and mark with point B3. Divide the same “half-circumference of the neck” measurement into three and +2 cm, measure from point B1 in a downward direction and mark point B4. We connect the resulting points and divide the segment into 2 parts. We again take the “half-circumference of the neck” measurement +1 cm and draw a straight line along the dividing point of the segments B3 and B4 from the central point B1, we get point B5. We connect points B3, B5, B4 with a curved line, we get the neckline of the front pattern.

Bust center and height

We use the size of the center of the chest, measure it from point G3 towards the left, we get point G6. From the resulting point we draw a line intersecting with line B1B2. At the intersection we get point B6. From it, in a downward direction, we measure the height of the chest, we get point G7.

Construction of darts, types

Shoulder cut and bust dart. Why are darts necessary on the chest of the product? The thing is that the darts on the chest on the dress are placed so that the dress has a shape in the place of the convex chest, which is why they began to be called breast darts. They can originate from the side cut, shoulder cut, neckline or armhole. The place where they begin depends on the chosen dress model and, naturally, on the volume of the chest. Their direction is always only towards the center of the chest, this should be taken into account when creating a pattern.

We measure 1 cm from point B6 downward and mark it with point B7. We connect B3 and B7. We connect B7 and P5 with a dotted line. Having measured the segment B7B3 minus 0.3 cm, we measure the resulting result from P5 towards the right and get point B8.

We measure the segment B7G7 from point G7 through the resulting point B8 and put B9. Connect P5 and B9.

Side seam, define the line

To the right, measure the third part of the armhole width measurement from G, marking it with point G5. And draw a vertical line through it. When crossing, mark point P on the armhole line, point T2 on the waist line, B2 on the hip line, and H2 on the bottom line.

Darts on the dress on the back along the waistline

We are building further. The darts located at the waist of the dress are called waist darts. They are necessary to create a tight fit of the dress at the waist. They can be located either on the whole back or front part, or on individual stitched parts; in these cases, they are cut-off, in addition, the darts can be located on the cut line of the armhole. Many people use darts on waist items, be it a skirt or trousers; they are also classified as waist darts.

Measure “half + 1 cm for freedom of fit minus the width of the dress (in our case this is line TT1) - this will give us the width of the dart on the dress.

Hip line

To measure “half the circumference of the hips” +2 cm for freedom of fit minus the width of the dress along the hips B1B. The result obtained is divided into 2 parts, one of which is used on the front half, the second on the back of the product. Measures to the right and left the result obtained from point B2 and marks with points B3 and B4. We mark the same distance from point T2 in two directions along a horizontal line and place points T3, T4. Point P should be connected to T4 and T3. We connect T3, B4, and B3, T4 with a dotted line. To the side of dividing the points, measure half a centimeter and connect with a curved line and points T4, B3 and the second side B4, T3.

Waist line on the front half

Add 0.5 cm to the “front waist length” measurement and plot the result from point B1 downwards, we get point T5. We connect points T4, T5 with a curved line. Measure the segment T5 T1 and set it aside from point B1 in a downward direction, we get point B5. We connect point B5 and point B3 with a curved line.

Darts on the back

Divide the segment G1G in half and mark the middle of the segment with a point G8. From there, lower the perpendicular downwards and place point B6 at the intersection with the hip line, and T6 at the waist line. From point T6, it is necessary to set aside half the width of the back dart to the right and left, marking with points T7, T8. After this, measure 1 cm downwards from point G8 and connect to point T7, measure 3 cm upwards from point B6 and connect to point T8.

Darts on the front half

Draw a straight vertical line from point G6 down to the hip line. The point on the waist line where the vertical line intersects it is designated as T9, and on the hip line as B7. We set aside half the width of the front dart from point T9 and mark it with points T10, T11. From B7 in the upward direction we measure 4 cm and connect this point with T11, and from G7 down 4 cm and connect the resulting point with T10.

Bottom line of the front half

From points B4 and B3 from the hip line we draw perpendicular lines to the bottom line and mark them with points H4, H3. Remember: if your dress widens towards the bottom, from the resulting points you need to set aside segments to the right and left, equal to 3 cm to 7 cm, and connect them to B4, B3. From point H1 downwards we measure the length of the segment T5T1 and mark it with point H5. It remains to connect the resulting points H5 and H3.

It's just building the foundation simple dress, thanks to which you can simulate your exclusive model. Darts will become assistants. How to make darts on a dress? Let's look at them in more detail.

A variety of darts on a dress

A dart is that part of the fabric that needs to be removed to emphasize the figure and smooth transition from one convex area to another.

Darts on dresses come in two main types. The first option is darts with one vertex, which have the shape of a triangle, while their shape will never change, only the size and depth can be changed. The wide base of the dart triangle is always located on the convex area, for example this female breast or a convex hip line. The second option is darts with two peaks. They look like two folded triangles, with one vertex. Two peaks are used in cases with solid parts of the back and front of the product, located at the waist line.

Relief darts on the dress will perfectly highlight the bust. They support it from below; the best option for using them in clothing is thick fabric. A larger bust means more convexity needs to be given to the dart. Towards the center of the chest, the pattern should be the most convex part. Relief types of darts on a dress are located both vertically on the product and can be made from the armpit. This will give your breasts fullness and neatness.

The side dart on a dress is called a bust dart or chest dart. It is most often located on the waist in the front and back of the product - the dress. There are also models with darts starting from the side seam. Place the darts on the dress at the same distance from the center of the front of the dress and two from the center of the back of the product.

How to make darts on a finished dress?

If the dress you bought does not fit you well or you want to further emphasize your figure, then you can make auxiliary darts on the finished product. To do this, put on your dress, look in front of the mirror where exactly you want to remove excess fabric, and mark the dart area with soap on the wrong side. Maintain symmetry: if you remove excess on the right, then on the left you need to remove the same amount of fabric in the dart.

Baste the intended darts and try on the product. Didn't work the first time? Try it several times and then you will find the exact places where there is excess fabric. If you don’t have the desire or ability to redo it yourself, seek help from a clothing repair shop.

We don’t just keep successful patterns for the future, they become favorites, and we often use them as a convenient option to sew something quickly, without adjustments and a lot of labor. Among such patterns, there is sure to be one that is simple and has perfect darts. This is the pattern you will need.

How to add a dart: a practical way

Step 1

Take the pattern of the model you like. IN in this example I used a dress pattern from .

Pattern:

When best friend I'm getting married and I want to wear something special. In a stunning dress made of...

Step 2

Place a proven front pattern (dress, pullover or blouse) with a bust dart on top of your pattern, aligning the lower points of the armholes.

Step 3

Transfer the bust dart lines to new pattern shelves and adjust the line of the side seam (extend it by the width of the dart opening) and the line of the bottom of the shelf.

For the protruding parts of the pattern, use small pieces of tracing paper, which you just need to glue, then transfer the pattern lines and cut out the finished part.

Step 4

If necessary, adjust the position of the dart and the top of the dart during fitting.

Hello, my dear blog readers! Now we will look at several ways translation of the chest dart, because you will probably want to hide this large dart on the base pattern of the dress “from view.” If you haven't made your own base pattern yet, follow the link (there it is waiting for you step by step process pattern making - basics for beginners).

Methods for converting a chest dart will open up an incredible variety of models for you. That is, you can feel like a fashion designer and come up with a dress for yourself.

To begin, transfer onto tracing paper the part of the pattern on which you will transfer the dart (the front or back of the bodice).

Main rule:

to achieve smooth lines, the dart should not reach the center of the chest (in my drawing this is point G6) by 2 cm (if its ends point UP), and by 3-4 cm (if its ends point DOWN). Then the fabric will not become a cone on the chest.

This is the most common way to transfer a dart. You choose for yourself - at what distance from the armhole will the dart be located? It can lie horizontally, or it can be lowered slightly (set aside 3-6 cm from the bottom of the armhole on the side, and connect this point to the point of the center of the chest).

The ends of the dart look down, so we shorten the dart by 3-4 cm from the center of the chest. Cut along this line and close the dart at the top.

Transferring the bust dart to the armhole line

Most often, point P6 is used to transfer to the armhole line with basic pattern drawing.

The ends of the dart point upward, so we shorten the length of the dart by 2 cm.

Transferring the chest dart to the shoulder line

Select any point on the shoulder line for the new direction of the dart. Shorten the undercut by 2 cm.

This way the dart will also remain on the shoulder, only its direction will change slightly.

You can convert the dart into two soft folds. (as in the picture below)

Transferring the chest dart to the neckline

Mark the transfer line to the side of the neck. Shorten the undercut by 2 cm.

Transferring the bust dart to the center line

Remember to reduce the length of the undercut by 3 cm. (the photo also shows the transfer of the waist dart to the center)

Transferring the bust dart to the waistline

Design the sides of the dart taking into account the convexity of the chest. Lower the corner of the groove by 3 cm.

Relief - another version of the chest dart

The relief is the line that combines the chest and waist darts.

The relief can be from the shoulder line, from the armhole, from the neckline, from the center.

In tight-fitting silhouettes (read about silhouettes and body types), the relief is located on the most convex points of the chest and shoulder blades.

Relief from the armhole

Shoulder relief

Relief from the neck

First we move the chest dart to the center. And then we close the center dart, and it will open near the relief.

Front part with a fold (how to cut it out)

Remember, when constructing the drawing of the front of the pattern-basis of the dress, we made a fit in the chest area (half-skid). So: in order for us to cut out the front part of the bodice with a fold, we need to ensure that the front fold line is vertical and straight. And the half-skid creates curvature on the future fold line (see drawing below, the half-skid area is marked in pink)

Therefore, in order to make the fold line straight, we move the selected segment (in white in the figure below), forming a straight fold line in the center of the front piece. This will increase the chest dart slightly. The white sector will lie on the drawing with a slight overlap below the center line of the chest (this is how it should be).

All! This way you will get a bodice detail with a fold in the center, which is convenient when converting the chest dart into relief.

Interesting options for transferring a chest dart

I bring to your attention various additional options for transferring a breast dart, maybe they will inspire you to create a BEAUTIFUL one!

This is where I will end this long review of the bust dart translation! I hope you can choose the option that suits you and inspires you! I wish you good luck and sew with me! See you soon on the blog pages!