Not difficult. Gradually migrating to women's wardrobe, such an item of clothing as a shirt has acquired a lot of variations and styles. By decorating it with some details, you can get a romantic or democratic style. Thus, this toilet detail can even become a blouse. But its basis is always the same - the pattern classic shirt. We'll get to know her now.
Necessary measurements and how to take them correctly
In order to create a shirt pattern, you need to take measurements. They are removed directly from the person for whom the future product is sewn. Measurements are the values obtained by measuring the girth or length of parts of the body with a centimeter tape.
So, we measure the neck, placing it at the level of the collarbone and the protruding cervical vertebra behind. We write down the resulting value. In the future, we record all measurement values on paper with maximum accuracy, it depends on the correct tailoring of the shirt.
Measuring your waist and hips is fairly easy. It is worth remembering that the hips and chest are measured at the most prominent points.
The length of the product is measured from the mid-thigh line parallel to the spine, and the length of the back is measured to the waist.
Building a shirt front
Construct a pattern for a women's shirt if you know that its main part consists of three elements - the back and two shelves in front. The shelves are two halves connected by a clasp.
On a large sheet of paper we draw a pattern for a women's shirt, starting from the shelf.
- Let's carry out horizontal line, the length of which is equal to the waist circumference. Let's sign the line.
- On the right we will leave 5 cm and put a point through which we will draw a vertical line in the middle of the front.
- Along this line we put the values up and down to get the length of the product. Let's put points.
- Draw a perpendicular from the top point to the left.
- Let's plot the neck circumference along it and mark it with a dot.
- From the starting point, it is necessary to set aside the depth of the neck, which is approximately 1 cm greater than the circumference of the neck.
- From the end point of the neck circumference, set the length of the shoulder to the left.
- And from the end point of the shoulder downwards we measure 4 cm. We connect the beginning and end of the shoulder line so that it turns out to be beveled down.
- From the waist line along the middle front line downwards, we set aside the hip circumference.
- From the found point to the left we draw a perpendicular, which will be the line of the hips.
Building the back of the shirt
The pattern for the back will be slightly wider than the shelf. It is much easier to build.
Calculation of the width of the elements relative to the chest line
It is impossible to make a pattern for a women's shirt without checking the measurements you received. The width of the product in this case is much more important than its length.
We make a small increase to the chest girth (7-8 cm), divide the amount by 4. The width of the shelf will be equal to this figure increased by 2 cm, and for the back you should subtract 2 cm from the resulting number. Let's put these values aside along the chest line and mark them with dots. The same values at the waist will be a couple of centimeters less, since the waist is narrower than the chest.
Calculation of the width of the elements relative to the hip line
In this case, points are applied to the pattern of a women's shirt, the location of which is calculated in the same way as the previous one. The only difference is that at the end you need to draw the side line, connecting the waist, hips and chest at the extreme points.
And finally, it remains to add a few small touches to the drawing:
- Create a random dart on the chest.
- Smoothly draw a line from the edge of the shoulder to the edge of the chest line. This will be the armhole of the shirt. The sleeve is sewn here.
- Draw a dart from the waist to the hip line, 1 cm wide.
- The “waist” dart on the back is located from the hip line to the middle of the side.
- We deepen and widen the neck a little.
- Constructing a placket for the button line parallel to the middle of the front.
You can create a pattern for a women's shirt quickly and easily, if you show persistence and care. This is accessible even to a novice seamstress. It is enough to understand a woman’s shirt once, in order to develop more complex models of shirts and blouses on its basis.
Hello. Let's look at the order of how to sew a men's shirt with your own hands from start to finish. This is the case if you decide to sew yourself. However, you can always trust the professionals and purchase a wonderful ready-made shirt at Barbaru.ru.
Taking measurements and creating patterns for shirt parts
After cutting, it would be nice to assemble the shirt and try it on. Some adjustments may need to be made. Note the overall fit front and back; for a sufficient neck width; for shirt and sleeve lengths.
Sewing begins with the assembly of smaller parts
1.
2. Sew on pockets, if they are provided on your model.
I place the pockets on the pattern by eye, approximately in the middle of the front somewhere at the beginning of the curve of the armhole to the side seam.
3.
4.
5.
6. Connection of sleeves and front and back panels
Since the lengths of the armhole and sleeve hem lines are equal, there should be no problems with attaching the sleeve. We chop off the parts and connect them on a machine.
Seam Can overlock or sew a backstitch.
In factories there are special machines for making sewing seams and making such a seam is a couple of trifles. At home, the process is quite labor-intensive.
Covering seam
One allowance, which belongs to the armhole, is trimmed.
The sleeve allowance is turned up and ironed
I pin the sleeve allowance to the armhole
I stitch along the edge of the fold of the allowance
View from the inside
Front view
7. Connect the side seam and the sleeve seam with one line
You can also process seam allowances either by overcasting or by sewing a backstitch.
8. Sew on the cuffs
I cut out the details of the cuffs and duplicate them with non-woven fabric. I pin and join on the machine, starting and ending the stitch without catching the seam allowances (on the bottom cuff, the seam allowance is pinned upward with a needle, because the stitching starts higher).
I cut out the corners and turn out the cuffs.
I sew the cuff to the sleeve with one side. I iron the cuff allowances.
I fold the remaining free edge and pin it.
I place a stitch from the front side of the sleeve exactly into the seam.
I make decorative stitching along the edge of the cuff.
9. Processing the bottom
I bend the bottom of the shirt 5 mm and iron it. Then I turn it in another 5 mm, iron it and stitch it. The result was a hem seam with a closed cut.
10. I overcast the loops and sew on the buttons.
The shirt is ready.
If you undertake to sew a men's shirt, then you need to do it with a rating from “good” to “excellent”. Set yourself up for a high result, otherwise you shouldn’t even start sewing. Making a shirt for a man with your own hands is not due to poverty or economy, but out of great love for your man and the desire to dress him like in the best Neapolitan tailoring shops.
Smooth seams, no protruding threads, clear stitching, comfortable pattern. And there are a lot of nuances that the average person won’t pay attention to, but we will consider (and apply!) them all.
Sequence of sewing a classic men's shirt
1.Shirt cut.
IN different models the cut may contain the following details:
back, front halves - 2 parts, placket, yoke, collar, collar stand, sleeves, cuffs, pockets.
If you have difficulty constructing a pattern, then take it, but remember that the best pattern is one built individually.
Tip: when sewing a shirt, do not cut out the sleeves and collar at once. The fact is that after trying on there will probably be adjustments to the fit and increases in freedom (more/less). The armhole can be enlarged and the neckline made larger.
I cut out the collar and sleeve pieces after refining the fit and measuring the neckline and armhole lengths. That's right.
Textile. Cotton, linen. For gourmets - silk. For sports polo shirts - cotton or viscose jersey. I am for natural fabrics, and I don’t even recommend using a mixture of cotton and polyester.
Seam allowances: side seams, bottom, sleeves - 1.2 -1.5 cm each. Neckline, collar, cuffs - 0.8 - 1 cm each.
2. Plank
one-piece, tailored or simple one-piece selection. I plan to do separate master classes on all types of fasteners.
The width of the strap is convenient 3 – 3.5 cm. Don’t forget to glue the lining with soft double tape, then the loops and buttons will be clearer and stronger.
3. Yoke
Discussed in detail in the master class. You need to cut out 2 equal parts of the yoke and sew them in such a way with the main parts of the back and front so that all seam allowances are between the parts of the yoke. No overlock, of course. A well-tailored shirt does not have a single overlock seam at all.
4. invoice pocket on the shelf, if provided in the shirt model. Master class:.
5. Collar.
Most likely, you will be sewing a stand-up collar.
Before cutting the stand and collar, do not forget to measure the length of the neckline along an imaginary sewing line. It is convenient to measure the neck when folded with a measuring tape “on the edge”
measure the neck length.
To help you sew a collar, here is the most detailed information:
If your model is a polo shirt, then help in the master class
6. process the sleeve cut
At this stage, while the sleeves are still “open,” it is very convenient to outline and make a fastener in the form of a bar or simply process the cut.
This is how you can process a sleeve cut in a simple way in the classic way.
The sleeve cut is on the elbow (back) part of the sleeve, approximately at a distance of one quarter from the length of the lower cut. Pin tucks or iron them, equalizing the width of the sleeve at the bottom and the length of the cuff.
Slice from larger side from the cut, fold it inside out, no more than 2-3 mm, and stitch to the point of the cut, reducing the allowance to nothing.
Turn the sleeve over to the wrong side and sew up the seam allowance on the second side of the cut, taking the first seam allowance into the hem at the end of the line, about 0.5 cm. It’s easier to see once than to read a hundred times:
There are a lot of fastening options. Here is a whole range of master classes for you, choose according to your taste and strength.
- – – classic plank
- –This is an imitation of a plank. It's easy to do and looks nice.
- – one of simple options. Bias trim in a contrasting fabric will add personality to a shirt or blouse.
7. Sew the sleeve into the armhole.
The sleeve is cut to a specific armhole. Let's measure the valley of the armhole and compare it with the length of the sleeve cap. But don't forget about the sleeve width! An increase in freedom of fit (LOF) of at least 4 centimeters is added to the upper arm circumference.
The fact is that an edge fit in men’s shirts is not necessary, but 1 cm is acceptable. And you need to choose the following proportions in the sleeve: “armhole length = length of the edge / arm circumference at the top plus PSO. ”
This is not as simple a task as it seems. Increase the depth of the armhole, lower the height of the edging - if necessary. In a word, think and make a decision.We sew the sleeve in with a seam, from the inside out. Moreover, the second line should go along the yoke, and not along the sleeve.
add an edge of no more than 1 cm
sew the sleeve into the armhole
sleeve seam
the sleeve is sewn into the armhole8. Side seam.
It is done with a single stitch, sewing down the side sections and the sleeve.
However, you can swap points 7 and 8, and this will also be correct: first - the side seams, and then - the sleeve into the armhole.
If the shirt is checkered, then pay close attention to combine the drawing.
backstitched seam
single seam on sleeve and side
pattern combination9. Cuffs
You can sew:
men's shirt cuffOr maybe if you are sewing a shirt for a child or a woman’s blouse:
In this case, you will not have to process the cut.
10. Fastening: loops, buttons.
Everything is simple here, the main thing is to make the markings at the same distance from each other and at least 1.5 cm from the edge of the side. Sew the buttons “on the leg” using a regular toothpick.
Classic blouse
Kuznetsova Nina
Since my daughter needed a blouse for everyday wear and in a short time, I took size 44 as a basis.
Stage 1
cutting and making changes to the pattern
When cutting, do not forget to place notches according to the marks on the pattern.
On pattern shelves made changes.
For the plank I drew a new line ( red) stepping back 1.5 cm to the left from the mid-front line. Cutting along this line I got the following….
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I cut the shelf without a strip, bending the main pattern along the red line
On the back I made changes immediately on the fabric: I lengthened it down by 5 cm and rounded it on the side, and I drew two darts along the waist.
Sleeve. Having previously measured it for my daughter, the main sleeve pattern turned out to be short; when cutting on the fabric, I simply added 3 cm + 1 cm seam allowance to the bottom of the sleeve.
This is very clearly visible in the photo.
Cuff. I first cut the cuff on non-woven fabric, at the same time adding 3 cm for the fastener + 1 cm seam allowance on all sides. Cut it out. Only after that I glued the interlining onto the fabric with an iron. These changes are clearly visible in the Photo.
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Collar And stand left unchanged. First of all, I cut it on non-woven fabric, making allowances for the seam, and then glued it to the fabric and cut it out.
Planochka For the front, I was cut first on non-woven fabric, at the same time I added a seam allowance, and added 5 cm at the bottom, because lengthened the entire blouse + 1cm seam allowance.
Cut out the straps and cuffs on the fabric:
Open the collar:
Stand to collar. Be sure to add notches; they will be very useful when sewing a collar.
Important note! Unfortunately, I missed one thing: when cutting out the stand and collar, I did not measure the paper pattern of the stand along my daughter’s neck. As a result, when I sewed the collar to the shelf, it turned out that the collar was just pressed against her and it was hard for her to breathe. We had to beat this failure by not making a loop or button on the stand. After all this, I made changes to the main pattern:
- deepened the neck of the back and shelf by approximately 0.5 cm
- along the line of the middle of the collar and stand added 1 cm
In general, I immediately adjusted the main pattern so that the next time I used the pattern, everything would fit properly.
Sewing a blouse
1 Stitch on the shelf chest dart. I will sew up the dart at the waist later, after trying it on. Because I like everything to fit perfectly.
2 Sew a duplicated strip to the shelf; I ironed it along the fold line in advance and overlaid it along the edge of the hem. Turn the seam allowance towards the middle front. Sew a strip along the front side. Just now bend the hem.
3 Sew shoulder seams.
4 Sew in the sleeves, matching the marks.
5. Sew the collar. In fact, I thought the collar would take the longest time, but thanks to the accuracy of the marks on the pattern, everything came together in one go.
Sew the collar around the corners and carefully turn it out.
Make a notch on the stand along the middle line.
Fold the collar in half and make a notch along the fold line.
We combine the notches in the middle of the collar and the stand.
We pierce with needles.
Let's put it off.
We turn our work around. As a result we get:
We pin our collar from the wrong side to the neckline of the blouse, aligning the shoulder seam marks. Let's put it off.
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We turn the work face up and pin the other side of the stand with needles. Since this is the front side, the place where the plank should line up perfectly. The stand should not look beyond the bar.
Topstitch the stand along the front side
The collar is ready. I did the decorative stitching at the very end.
Cuff processing
My cuff looks like in the photo:
Accordingly, I did not use marks for the folds on the main sleeve pattern, but made my own marks..
Sew up the side seam.
We sew off the cuffs.
Carefully turn out the cuffs. Finished cuffs, already with allowance for fastening:
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On the wrong side of the sleeve, on the back side, I put two marks 6 cm and 9 cm, since the width of the fastener is only 3 cm.
We put marks.
Place the cuffs into the sleeves, taking care to place the fastener.
Pin everything with needles and stitch on a typewriter.
Photo by Shutterstock
Women's summer version of a shirt made of silk or cotton fabric You can add a bow, and also make a neckline or stand-up collar on it. If desired, you can apply Ukrainian or any other ornament to the shirt. You can sew a stylish women's shirt at home - quickly, easily and focusing on your own preferences.
Making a pattern for a women's shirt
To sew a women's shirt you will need:
- pattern;
- silk, cotton or linen piece of fabric;
- interlining;
- needles;
- threads;
- sewing machine and graph paper.
First of all, take measurements of the half-girth of the neck and chest, and also decide how long the sleeve, shoulder and the product itself will be. By finished pattern You should cut out the front, back and sleeves.
If you are sewing a feminine shirt, remove the darts from the pattern, make a blouse with reliefs and model puff sleeves. Don't forget to leave 5-7 cm on the shelves for fastening
Fold the fabric in half lengthwise. Arrange the parts so that you have two symmetrical parts for the sleeves and shelves. For a loose-fitting shirt, prepare one back piece folded in half. Cut out double rectangular cuffs lengthwise, 26–30 cm long and 14–20 cm wide, then cut out two collar pieces and two stand pieces, not forgetting the seam allowances.
We sew a women's shirt
Reinforce the upper parts of the stand, cuffs and collar with non-woven material, then fold the paired parts together and level them. Place the collar pieces with their right sides facing each other, move the top piece down 2 mm, pin them in the center with a pin, sweep and stitch the pieces. Turn the collar inside out and iron it.
Place the stand pieces right sides together, pin them together and stitch them along the side seams. Baste and stitch the collar to the stand, then iron the seams, turn the product right side out and stitch the collar and stand. Repeat these manipulations with the cuffs. Topstitch the cuffs, 0.5 cm from the edge.
To place a button or cufflink on a cuff, make a vertical or horizontal slot for a buttonhole on it and overcast it (by hand with a buttonhole stitch or overlock stitch)
Fold the edges of the shelves intended for fastening and iron them. Baste and stitch the shoulder darts on the back. Place the front and back pieces right sides together. Baste the shoulder and side seams. Align the seams of the sleeves with the side seam of the shirt and sew in both sleeves. Then pin the middle of the back neckline to the middle of the sleeve stand.
Place the collar and shirt with right sides facing each other, then baste and stitch the outer side of the stand to the neckline. Press the seam. Fold the bottom edge of the inside of the post (pin the hem so you don't have to resew it later) to baste and stitch the post to it.
After attaching the stand, alternately baste and stitch the outer and inside cuff using the same method you used when sewing the stand. Finish the seams by hand or with an overlocker. Make loops in the shelves and sew buttons. The women's shirt is ready.
