The most common and very unpleasant contaminants that spoil the aesthetic appearance are: cement deposits, the appearance of salt, the appearance limescale on the facade or fence. Moreover, this does not depend on time - plaque can appear almost after laying or during brick laying. Often, efflorescence forms white, hardened smudges that can increase in size every day.
Unscrupulous builders try as much as possible to hide or disguise defects; unfortunately, their actions are temporary and in 99% of cases, plaque and drips appear again. This is explained by the fact that by removing the efflorescence itself, we are fighting not the cause, but the effect.
What is the cause of efflorescence?
There are three main types of efflorescence:
- Calcareous efflorescence appears in the form of hard, fairly thick deposits.
- Lime stains appear in thin layers in the form of dusty deposits that are quite soft to the touch.
- Lime efflorescence in the form of crystals of insoluble and soluble salts.
When do efflorescences form?
- In a fresh mixture (primary efflorescence). With a porous mixture, OH and Ca ions move outward with the help of residual moisture, where they combine with CO2 in humid air (deposits form on the surface).
- In the hardened mixture (secondary efflorescence). Water from precipitation, groundwater, and condensed moisture penetrates into the brickwork, thereby dissolving the salts of various chemical elements, including calcium. In warm, dry weather, the salt solution rushes to the surface of the masonry. The water evaporates, leaving salt crystals on the wall in the form of a white coating.
What accelerates and makes possible the appearance of limescale efflorescence?
- High Water/Cement ratio.
- Insufficient mixing of the masonry mixture.
- Large amounts of Ca(OH) 2 (calcium salts) and other foreign salts in mixtures.
- Insufficient content of binder (cement) in masonry mixtures (increasing porosity and, accordingly, water permeability).
- Poor seam care – incorrect seam profile.
- Poorly prepared mixture - movement of water and lime.
- Filler not washed from impurities
- Filler of uncontrolled composition and quality.
- The water is highly chlorinated, containing salt or other foreign substances, which contributes to prolonged drying.
- Filling joints with mortar after precipitation until the base is completely dry.
- Drying of cement mixtures too quickly.
How to clean cement deposits and efflorescence
Many, when faced with such a phenomenon, panic and partly they are right, is this how they imagined their house or fence during construction. But don’t panic, this is all quite easy to solve.
There are two ways:
- Calling a cleaning company that cleans stone;
- Clean it yourself.
What do we need for cleaning?
- Soap for natural stone. Exactly for stone, do not confuse it with ordinary detergents.
- Cement and salt removal agent;
- A stone scraper and a small spatula, for cleaning heavily ingrained and hardened areas;
- Wire brush and regular brush;
- Grinder with a metal brush (recommended to be used only as a last resort, for severely ingrained dirt that a metal brush cannot remove).
Let's start cleaning
- The first thing we must do is wash off all non-surface dust and dirt. To do this, we dilute the soap concentrate for natural stone in water, in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer, and thoroughly wash the brick surface with the resulting solution using a regular brush. And rinse thoroughly with water. At the first stage, it is not recommended to overfill the stone with water so that it dries faster.
- We dilute the cleaning agent concentrate in the recommended proportion and apply it to the surface with a brush and use circular movements (the direction does not matter) to clean the surface. Leave for 5-10 minutes. And rinse thoroughly with water.
- After completing the first two steps, you will immediately notice the cleaning effect, but areas with heavily ingrained dirt will also begin to stand out. To deal with them, pour the undiluted concentrate into a small container and apply it to the contaminated areas with a brush. When applied there will be chemical reaction and the concentrate on cement and salt contaminants will foam, but don’t be alarmed by this, this is how it should be. Give it 5-10 minutes and begin rough cleaning using a scraper and, if necessary, a metal brush. And rinse thoroughly with water. Let it dry and repeat until the surface is completely clean.
- The main thing is to rinse thoroughly with water after complete cleaning, as chemicals can leave a white residue.
How to protect brick from efflorescence and plaque
There are two types of protection:
- Transparent impregnation for stone. Apply to the surface with a brush 1-2 times. Creates a protective layer on the surface that does not allow water to pass through and counteracts subsequent deep contamination.
- Impregnation with color enhancement and wet effect. The most in demand and popular at the moment. Creates a protective layer and gives the stone a rich color.
New residents end up paying for the construction workers' careless work.
When starting cleaning, you need to understand whether the surface on which the cement remains is hard and strong, or whether mechanical stress can lead to chips and cracks.
When conducting construction work, foremen always think about the delivery of the object, ordinary workers often think about what can be stolen from the site, and masons think about the weather. Being outside all day, exhausted by the heat in summer, rain in autumn and snow in winter, you inevitably begin to monitor the weather forecast. You often have to rush, and it’s not always possible to do everything carefully. So the cement blots remain. Washing off cement later causes headaches for building owners.
There are two ways to cope with the task of washing off cement.
To do this you may need the following tools:
- metal brush;
- putty knife;
- chisel;
- geological hammer;
- Master OK;
- an ordinary hammer and chisel;
- grinder or whetstone;
- axe;
- liquid for removing cement.
Mechanical removal
The first is that cement is removed mechanically. Growths and stains are removed by regular knocking. Use a spatula, trowel, wire brush or hammer and chisel. A hammer and chisel are used to knock down large pieces of dried mixture. Sometimes it is better to use a chisel. It is convenient due to the uneven sharpening of the sides and the small angle. But do not forget that the chisel is not intended for such work and removing the hardened cement solution will quickly dull it.
It is good to remove cement from glass and ceramics with a kitchen scraper.
People who advise using a nail or chisel are a little wrong when they say that these tools are The best decision Problems. The conical working part removes the cement in a narrow path, resulting in a countless number of depressions, dashes and chips on the surface. Such tools are very suitable for removing excess cement from joints.
Put away old cement from glass is possible using a scraper designed for cleaning kitchen stoves. You can find such a scraper in every hardware store. A brush for cleaning windows is also suitable. The main thing before starting work is to wet the glass generously with water. The cement is then scraped and washed with a brush. In extreme cases, you can use a razor blade. Cleaning should be done not with the corner of the blade, but with the entire plane. In this case there will be no scratches.
If dried cement needs to be removed from a brick for reuse, then there is no better solution than a geological hammer.
If hardened cement needs to be removed from a brick that is not in the masonry, that is, used, for secondary use, then you will not find anything better than a geological hammer. It looks like a small pickaxe, but both working parts are not sharpened. If such a tool is not available, a simple hammer and ax will do.
Before starting work, be sure to thoroughly moisten any surface. The water should soften the cement mixture, which will then aid in removal. It is necessary to moisten the brick until it no longer accepts moisture.
Impacts should be applied along the plane (sliding), this minimizes the possibility of damage to the surface. You can clean the surface of cement using a sharpening stone or grinder. The grinder requires careful and precise work, otherwise the surface will have deep cuts. It is most often used when removing large “blunders”. It is better not to completely clean off the cement with it; the residue is moistened with water and scraped off with a metal brush.
The work of a sharpening stone is more accurate compared to a grinder, but it takes more time.
Solvent preparation
In the second option, cleaning is carried out using chemicals based on hydrochloric, phosphoric or sulfuric acids. Acid and water penetrate into the solution and destroy it.
But there are some nuances, for example, white silicate brick does not tolerate acid treatment at all, it simply begins to collapse. This does not happen with ceramic bricks.
Acid-based removers (phosphoric or hydrochloric) will quickly deal with old cement splashes.
If you have not forgotten the theoretical course in school chemistry and there is sulfuric acid in stock, and for ordinary people- the electrolyte that is used to refill the battery in a car, you can make the solvent yourself. The acid should have a concentration of approximately 10-15%. If the concentration is higher, corrosion of the surface under the cement may occur; if lower, the level of effectiveness will decrease significantly.
The area to be cleaned must be coated with the prepared solvent and wait about half an hour. During this period of time, the area will be completely saturated. After this, the dried cement is removed manually using the same tools: a metal brush, spatula, trowel, hammer, etc. Then the surface must be thoroughly washed with water; sulfuric acid loses its properties in it and disintegrates.
In specialized stores you can always find products that are designed to clean concrete surfaces from cement.
If you intend to purchase a product for cleaning old cement, then take your time when choosing. Most solvents contain the above-mentioned acids, but there are also less harmful samples. Before buying a product, consult a specialist or a store salesperson. The range of chemicals offered is very large, and some of them, in contact with tiles, metal, wood, plastic and other materials, can damage their surface. WITH special attention read the instructions. Operating conditions can vary greatly from a smooth and completely dry surface to heavy soaking with water. The advantage of chemicals is lower costs physical strength, but you still have to work hard.
Cleaning bricks from cement
Another problem with brick is salt deposits. white, which occurs due to the removal of salts present in the brick and mortar. Plaque is formed due to the abundance of precipitation (often appears in the spring) and violation of waterproofing standards during construction. In addition to disrupting the aesthetics of the appearance, plaque also has a negative impact on the brick itself. Its main component is sodium sulfate. It, in reaction with water, can increase in volume by 1000%, destroying the outer layer, which, falling off, opens a new portion of sulfate that comes into contact with water. Everyone has probably seen such crumbling brick walls at some point.
Cleaners are applied to the wall surface using a brush, brush, roller or spray and left for some time.
Facade cleaners consist of an aqueous solution of acid salts, antiseptics and various additional components. When applied, solvent substances interact with salts and dissolve them. Step-by-step instruction and directions for use are usually indicated on the label.
To wash off plaque, it is necessary to carry out work in the following order:
- the concentrated cleaner is diluted with water to a concentration of 5-15% (depending on the level of surface contamination);
- The resulting solution covers the wall. We carry out this work with a brush or roller;
- leave the surface for some time (3-20 minutes). We wait until the solvent interacts with the salts;
- the solution must be thoroughly rinsed with water. The brickwork is wiped with a medium-hard polymer brush.
The components used in facade cleaners are harmful to health, so it is necessary to use personal protective equipment when working with them. If there are small children in the family, then, with some effort, you can find solvents without an acid component. They are safer, but less effective and require several surface treatments.
Consolidation of results
After all excess solution and white salt stains have been removed, the surface must be secured. Otherwise it's closer to summer appearance at home it might go bad again. It is necessary to interrupt the contact of the walls with water. To do this, you will need a water repellent - a product for coating artificial and natural surfaces (concrete, brick, marble, foam concrete, granite, stone, plaster, etc.).
The water-repellent coating has excellent vapor-permeable and water-repellent properties. As a result, the surface stops absorbing moisture. The manufacturers of this coating claim that it is completely harmless.
Cut a piece of wire mesh if you need to clean a small area. The easiest way to clean decorative stones is to sift through a mesh with a mesh size of 13 millimeters. The cells of such a mesh have a size of 13 by 13 mm, so that the stones will remain on the surface of the sieve, and dirt and debris will sift through the mesh. A piece of mesh measuring 60 by 60 centimeters is quite enough for the job.
- If your stones are smaller than this size, then you can use a mesh with a mesh size of 6.5 millimeters.
Make a frame for the mesh out of wood for larger volumes. Use 5 x 10 cm boards (that you have on hand) to make a rectangular frame that is at least 0.35 in size square meters. The mesh should be cut to fit the frame and secured to the wood using strong staples.
- The sieve can be made of any size. This article suggests a minimum suitable size (0.35 square meters), but the area can be much larger. In some cases, it will be necessary to install wooden stiffeners across the mesh under the frame to prevent stones from pushing through the mesh.
Lay down a tarp to keep the yard free of debris. If you want to quickly collect dirt after cleaning the stones, then spread a large piece of tarp on the ground under the sieve. After work, you can simply lift the tarp and pour the garbage into a bucket.
- You can also immediately install the sieve on a large trash can.
Use a shovel to pour stones into the sieve. When everything is ready to go, start on one side of the area with the stones. Collect stones with a shovel and pour into a sieve. Be careful not to overload the sieve.
- Do not shovel soil with stones, otherwise you will only add more work to yourself.
Shake the sieve with your hands or move the stones with a rake. If you have a small sieve, you can shake it from side to side to remove dirt from the stones. In the case of a large sieve, to clean a large area, move the stones along the mesh using a rake. Dirt and debris will immediately begin to sift through the mesh.
- If weeds, brushwood, cuttings or other debris do not spill through the mesh, they should be removed by hand.
Place clean stones in a separate pile or return them to their place. There are 2 main approaches: you can immediately return clean stones to their place or put them in a separate pile to later distribute throughout the area.
- The first option may be a little faster, but you run the risk of sifting some stones more than once.
- You can also work in small areas, return the stones to their place, and then move on to the next area. Experiment to find the best option.
Clean the entire area with decorative stones. Divide the area into sections or move around the perimeter and then towards the center. The cleared sections will be noticeable even if the stones are put back in place immediately, as they will have a neater appearance and will not be packed as tightly as the rest of the area.
- If the area is too large to handle in one day, try sifting one section of the area per day until the job is complete.
During operation, stone cladding loses its aesthetic qualities as a result of surface contamination, which leads to its darkening. The stone darkens, especially when used in outdoor conditions, from dust, iron oxides and efflorescence. Sloping and horizontal stone surfaces are subject to the greatest dust.
Efflorescence is discoloration. They are formed when using low-quality cement, dirty sand and adding substances that accelerate the hardening of cement mortar in large quantities. Stains on the surface of indoor cladding often form due to insufficient protection from water back side stone slabs. And the light stone is covered with iron oxides. Caulking, wood wedges and all materials of organic origin should not be left under the stone: their decomposition can lead to the formation of stains.
To prevent stains from forming, the cladding must be regularly washed, coated with protective compounds, and polished. Protective compounds should be based on wax, paraffin or mastic. The product is applied to the surface of the stone using a clean cloth. The facing is washed before treatment, and then left for about 3-4 minutes to allow the solvent to dry. After processing, the stone is wiped with a clean cloth using an electric polisher until it shines.
Tin chips are used to restore the shine of marble floors. And to polish multi-colored stone, aluminum oxide and chromium oxide are needed. For various types stones, you can use some chemical and mechanical methods to make the stone shine.
Chemical cleaning methods are used to remove stains from the facing surface by dissolving coloring compounds or discoloring them. Before using chemical cleaning agents, carefully remove the protective mastic from the stone using white spirit, turpentine or gasoline.
The outer facing surface is cleaned mechanically. Methods with rough mechanical impact are used extremely rarely, as they destroy the profile of the facing elements.
But all these means need to be prepared and found; our company offers ready-made products that will cope with cleaning the stone quickly and efficiently:
1. Acid-free detergent
2. Stain remover, removes stains
3. - a stronger stone cleaner. Removes stains, dust, dirt, mold.
Mechanical methods for cleaning stone:
- Steam cleaning;
- Washing with water;
- Sand cleaning;
- Restoration by secondary reforging;
- Surface grinding.
Washing with water is carried out under a pressure of 0.2 to 0.3 MPa if the lining has retained its integrity and the surface contamination is low. This method is ideal for cleaning polished stone. Indoors, the cladding is washed using foam rollers and linen rags in horizontal stripes from top to bottom. In this case, distilled water cannot be used, as it dissolves the outer marble layer, which leads to the loss of the polished surface. Marble must be washed with water infused with marble dust.
Labradorites, granites and other stones that do not contain carbonates can be washed using ordinary tap water. If the contamination is severe, you can use herbal or hair brushes, but only if the coating is not chipped or other defects.
To preserve seams made of marble and limestone materials, as well as to avoid efflorescence, adding caustic soda and acids to the water is unacceptable. If you use soap, it should be neutral, without free fats and alkalis.
If the stone is protected with a preservative, then before cleaning it is treated with a cloth soaked in white spirit or clarified turpentine.
If the lining is heavily soiled, steam cleaning is necessary. It gives excellent results and does not have a negative effect on the surface. But if the texture is rough, then this method of cleansing cannot be called effective. The surface is subjected to treatment with a jet of steam emerging from a nozzle under a pressure of 0.2 MPa. If steam is used together with water, the efficiency increases dramatically.
Sand cleaning using a sandblasting machine is used in rare cases. The cleaning method is suitable for flat surfaces with a polished or impacted texture of hard stone. After sand treatment, the stone regains its original appearance due to the elimination of the upper dusty layer.
For simple profile elements, sandblasting is acceptable, but only when the sand comes out of the nozzle under low pressure (0.05-0.1 MPa). At the same time, the distance from the surface to be cleaned to the nozzle is increased, and the diameter of the nozzle is reduced. Instead of coarse sand, fine quartz sand is used.
Iron oxide stains often form on leaks from steel roofing structures. Oxides are easily removed with a 15% sodium citrate solution. A gauze cloth or cotton swab is impregnated with it. If the stain is bright and has sharp boundaries, then it is necessary to use hyposulfite powder. A solution of yellow blood salt (2%) is also effective against iron oxides.
Bronze and copper oxides are formed from prolonged exposure to water at the sites of bronze and copper cladding fastenings. Such spots are green, red or brown in color. They are removed using pastes containing talc, aluminum chloride or ammonium chloride in a ratio of 1 to 4 by weight. For this purpose, the powders are stirred in ammonia to a paste-like consistency.
Stains from burlap and tobacco can be easily washed off with a product made from 2 tablespoons of soda mixed in a liter of water with the addition of a 2% solution of laundry soap. The liquid is rubbed onto the contaminated area or a tampon soaked in the solution is placed on it, to which it would not be superfluous to add chalk or talc to obtain a paste-like mass. Talc pastes take longer to dry, making them easier to remove from the stone surface after it has been cleaned. To wash the paste, you need to use hot solution 3-sodium phosphate with bleach (15%).
Polished surfaces become dull over time
Very often, the facades of houses, offices and apartments are faced with natural stone. This finish is considered durable, and proper care can last for decades.
But over time, the polished surface begins to lose its shine, scratches, various stains, and cracks appear. In order for natural stone cleaning to be effective and safe, it is necessary to choose the right care products.
There are 3 different cleaning methods:
- using acids and acidic compounds;
- combined methods;
- sandblasting.
Cleaning natural stone using acids and acidic compounds.
- Cleaning natural stone using acids and acidic compounds is used only for outdoor work. The method is inexpensive and good result on moderately dirty surfaces (for example, residues of lime, mortar, rust are easily removed). Organic acids are used, as well as hydrochloric, phosphoric and others. The surface to be treated must be moistened generously with acid, previously diluted with water, and left for some time. After this, rinse with clean water. Use this method with extreme caution when cleaning marble and limestone.
- Cleaning natural stone using alkali. Used in case of heavy contamination. Has a degreasing effect. Particularly effective for removing organic contaminants, traces of dirt and soot. Suitable for limestone. Should not be used to clean rust or cement stains.
- Cleaning natural stone using pastes. Used to remove the following contaminants: mold, algae, moss, etc. Suitable for removing grease and oil stains, paint, resin. The method of application is to apply the paste to the surface to be treated for up to three days.
Cleaning natural stone using a combined method
Most often it is already used when the surface needs to be further cleaned by other methods. In this case, grinding is used with both mechanical abrasive and diamond tools. The main disadvantage of this method of removing contaminants is that it can cause damage to stone products.
Using sandblasting method
This type of cleaning is used only for external work. With this method, contaminated surfaces are treated with special fine sand under high pressure. It is necessary to carry out cleaning away from glass, wood and plastered surfaces, as this method can lead to damage.
- always carefully read the instructions for use to avoid damage;
- start cleaning the surface from dirt with a less concentrated solution and only then with a more concentrated one;
- test the product on an inconspicuous area.
