Processing a collar with a stand, no matter how simple it may seem at first glance, also has its own subtleties and technological nuances. Today Adonina Maria will share her knowledge and experience in this matter with us. We are sure that her master class will be useful not only for those who are learning to sew, but also for experienced craftswomen.
Master Class. We carry out a collar with a stand
A stand-up collar is an indispensable attribute of so many blouses, jackets and, of course, men's shirts. Maria Adonina, winner of the 2010 master class competition, tells how to perform it correctly in her master class.
Maria Adonina: "I am 29 years old, I live in the city of Perm. Although I do not have a professional sewing education, since childhood I have been fascinated by sewing. turned out to be abandoned: graduation from the university, then working days in the office, but the craving for sewing won and I decided to buy a new machine.I began to search the Internet for information about sewing equipment and came across Osinka! so much necessary and useful information for myself!I remember how I spent hours reading, watching, remembering how I "went for advice" on the processing technology of a particular node, your club has become a real mine of information and a source of inspiration for me!
My method was formed from tips in books and magazines, the Internet, as well as from looking at ready-made blouses and shirts, and, of course, from my own experience."
We hope that this master class will be useful not only for beginner dressmakers, but also for experienced craftswomen.
Connection of set-in collars with a neck. Depending on the type of fastener, the fabric of the product, the type of collar, the method of stitching it into the neck is selected. There are several of these ways.
In products from fine fabrics with a clasp to the top, when connecting the collar on a one-piece stand (in products such as men's shirts) with a neck, the selection or allowances for processing the sides, replacing the selection, are made narrow so that the inner edge of the selection or the allowance of the side overlaps the ledge point by at least 1.5 -3 cm
Before connecting the collar to the neck, the sides must be processed. The lower collar is equalized with the neck, combining the front side of the lower collar with the front side of the product, combining the control points with the shoulder seams and the middle of the neck of the back, and the ends of the collar with the points of the ledge or the side line (semi-skid); they sweep and sew in the collar with a seam 0.7-1 cm wide. The collar is rolled out along the flyaway and edge, the seam is ironed onto the lower collar (Fig. 1, a).
The edge of the collar is folded over by 0.6-0.8 cm, basted, closing the stitching seam, and adjusted at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the fold (Fig. 1, b).
In products with collars on a cutting stand first, the stand is connected to the collar, and then the collar is stitched in the same way as collars on a one-piece stand (Fig. 2).
In products made of non-shrinking cotton fabrics and knitwear, the collar is connected to the neck with a seam, followed by overcasting. The prepared collar is folded with the front side of the product, combining the control points, combining the cuts. The pick-up is bent to the wrong side along the line of the half-skid, closing the ends of the collar. The collar is swept in and stitched in with a seam 0.7-1 cm wide, while turning the ledges of the side (Fig. 3, a). The seam is overcast with a zigzag or overlock seam.
The ledges of the bead are turned out, the seam is ironed on the neck and adjusted at a distance of 0.2-0.7 cm from the sewing line (Fig. 3, b).
Most often, for stitching turn-down, fancy, with an enlarged neck, as well as on products made of easily crumbling fabrics, a method is used using undercut or inlay.
Connecting a set-in collar with a neck by usingfacings. To stitch the collar, prepare the facing of the neck. If the selection of the product is up to the shoulder seam, the facing is prepared only on the neck of the back. The facing is sewn to the collars, the seam is ironed out, the detachable cut of the facing and the collar can be overcast (Fig. 4, a).
The collar is folded with the front sides of the product, combining the stitching line on the lower collar with the neck line. Then you need to combine the details at the control points and sweep the collar into the neck with straight stitches at a distance of 0.6-0.9 cm from the cuts. Put a facing and a selection on the seam with the right side on the front side of the upper collar, covering the seam, and bast. The collar turns out to be, as it were, nested between the product and the facing (Fig. 4, b).
Sew the collar into the neckline with a seam 0.7-1 cm wide, turn it inside out, straighten it out, cut out the seam allowance of the gasket, tack the edge of the facing to the product, iron it (Fig. 5).
In products made of cotton fabrics, the inner edge of the facings is sewn with a through machine stitch, in products made from other fabrics, the sewing seam allowance is stitched onto the facing with a stitch at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the stitching line. On the shoulder seams, the facing is attached with several stitches (Fig. 6).
Stitching collar withlapel side on fine fabrics. The collar must be inserted between the product and the selections, placing the front side of the lower collar to the front side of the product, level the cuts along the neck and stab with pins.
Baste the collar from the ledges to the shoulder seam with straight stitches. Notch the collar above the shoulder seams and tuck only the lower collar along the neck of the back between the shoulder seams. Stitch the collar with a seam 0.7 cm wide, turn the collar inside out, turn it inside out.
Cut the seam of the raskep in several places to the line, cut out the gasket allowance in the seam. Bend the edge of the collar stand between the shoulder seams, closing the stitching seam of the lower collar, and hem with blind stitches or topstitch at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the folded edge (Fig. 7).
The line from the inside should be 0.1 cm from the seam of the neck. If the product is made with a lining, the edge of the collar between the shoulder seams must be sewn to the neck of the lining. Connect the sewing seam of the lining with the sewing seam of the lower collar into the neckline and fasten with machine stitching or by hand.
Stitching into the neck of single collars. Single collars sewn into the neck with the help of a wrap, just like doubles. In products made of thin fabrics, the collar is sewn into the neck using a single or double inlay.
Seam width 0.5 cm. The seam is closed with an inlay or facing. When processing with a single inlay, its cut is folded inward and stitched at a distance of 0.1 cm from the folded edge (Fig. 8, a), and when processed with a double inlay, stitching is performed at a distance of 0.1 cm from the inner fold of the inlay (Fig. 8, b).
The collar can be connected to the neck without turning and trim with stitching seam processing on a zigzag stitch machine. To do this, the collar is folded with the front side to the wrong side of the product and sewn into the neck on a sewing machine. Seam width 0.5 cm. Then the collar is folded over and the seam is sewn onto the neck of the product on a zigzag stitch machine (Fig. 9).
When connecting the collar to the neck sewing seam(fig. 10) the collar is folded with the wrong side with the front side of the product, releasing the cut of the collar beyond the cut of the neck by 0.5 cm. Then the collar is unscrewed, the seam is bent around the seam with an allowance from the side of the collar and stitched at a distance of 0.1 cm from the folded edge.
When connected double seam the processed collar is applied with the wrong side to the front side of the product, equalizing the cuts, and stitched from the side of the collar. Seam width 0.3-0.5 cm. Then the seam allowance is cut, the collar is folded to the inside of the product, the seam is straightened, placing the stitching line on the fold, and the collar is sewn with the second line along the collar at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the fold (Fig. 11).
The seam is ironed to reduce the thickness; in the finished product, the collar on the front side will close the seam.
Stitching into the neck of a one-piece collar with a selection. The collar lining is cut out along the upper collar and the selection. The processing sequence for a one-piece collar is as follows:
Baste the lining on the inside of the collar;
Baste the shoulder seams of the back, fronts and the seam of the middle of the lower collar;
Sweep the lower collar into the neck of the back, aligning the seam with the line of the middle of the back;
Make a fitting and make changes if necessary;
Sew parts of the lower collar along the middle seam with a seam 0.7-1 cm wide, folding them face inward and combining the cuts. Sew parts of the upper collar, one-piece with picks, in the same way as parts of the lower collar. Iron the seams (Fig. 12);
Stitch the shoulder seams and sew the lower collar into the neck of the back, unfolding the product in the corner of the shoulder seam and the neck, making a cut to the line (Fig. 13);
Press the stitching seam onto the lower collar;
Baste the top collar with the bottom collar, matching the seams and reference points, making the cuts equal.
The top collar is slightly fitted; if there are corners, landing is done in the corners of the collar;
Overstitch the collar with a seam 0.5-0.7 cm wide, cut out the lining in the seam,
Undercut the fabric in the corners, if any;
Iron the turning seam, turn the collar out, sweep out, passing the edging from the collar to the beginning of the fastener, then from the fabric of the product shelf along the side line. Sweep the line of the inflection of the collar, making a small overlap from the fabric of the upper collar;
Top collar seam allowance along the pine baste the neckline of the back to the seam of the lower collar and stitch it between the shoulder seams or secure with hidden stitches;
Attach the collar to the seam allowance along the shoulder line;
Iron the finished collar and, if necessary, lay a finishing line.
In combined collars, the lower collar is cut out with a cut-off, and the upper collar is one-piece with selections (Fig. 14, b). When processing such a collar, the lower collar is first connected to the neck along the stitching line with a seam 0.7-1 cm wide. The seam is ironed out and the allowance is cut from the side of the shelf, and with a significant curvature of the stitching line, corners are cut out on the allowance of the lower collar (Fig. 14, a). Allowances are attached to the details with hidden oblique stitches or sewn with fixing stitches with threads in the color of the fabric. Fig.14.
Further processing is carried out similarly to the processing of one-piece collars.
Stitching a collar into the neck is a rather complicated and time-consuming operation. The slightest inaccuracy can lead to product distortion. Stitching methods differ depending on the product model.
The collar is one of the brightest and most important elements in clothing. Very often, the emphasis in the product is set on the collar. By manipulating the shape, color and texture of the collar, you can present in a more advantageous light the oval of the face, the shape of the neck, skin color, or mask possible imperfections. With all the variety of cut collars, there are several basic ways to process them, on which the development of any collar style is based.
Collar processing. The upper and lower collars are cut according to one pattern, the allowances for all sections are 0.7-1 cm. The upper collar is cut out in one piece, the lower one is possible with a seam in the middle. To give a stable shape, the lower collar is usually duplicated.
If the shape of the collar allows, you can cut the upper collar one-piece with the lower one (that is, with a fold along the flyaway). In this case, its turning consists only in joining along the side cuts.
If your collar consists of two parts, first you should fold them face inward and baste the upper collar onto the lower one, shifting its sections 0.1-0.2 cm inward (to form an edging from the upper collar). Having turned from the side of the lower collar 0.5-0.7 cm from the cut, the basting is removed, if necessary, the corners are cut and the collar is turned inside out.
Then it is swept out from the side of the lower collar with the formation of an edging 0.1 cm from the upper collar and ironed.
Collar to neck connection. Stitching a collar into the neck is a rather complicated and time-consuming operation. The slightest inaccuracy can lead to product distortion. Stitching methods differ depending on the product model.
Flat lay collar they are sewn into the neck, processing the inner cut with a facing or oblique trim. The processed collar is entirely swept into the neck, a facing with overcast outer sections is applied on top, a seam is laid 0.7-1 cm from the edge. The facing is turned away and adjusted to a seam allowance of 0.1cm. After that, the stitching in of the collar should be swept out and ironed. The facing can be attached with hidden stitches in several places, or stitched. Finished piping width 2.5-3cm, oblique inlay 1.5-2cm.
When connected stand-up collar with a neck, the upper collar is superimposed on the front of the product, combining its middle with the middle of the back, and the ends - with the middle of the front and tucked in, then stitched in with a 0.7-1 cm seam.
The seam allowance is ironed towards the collar. The section of the lower collar is tucked inward and basted along the neck, overlapping the stitching in of the upper collar by 0.1-0.2 cm. On the front side, a reinforcing stitch is laid into the seam of the upper collar. The collar is stitched in. Now, if desired, you can lay a finishing line along the outer edge of the rack .
Stand-up collar (or shirt) connects to the product, as well as the stand, the difference is that the upper part of the turn-down collar is sewn in from the wrong side .
Stand-up collar with detachable stand consists of four parts: the upper and lower parts of the collar, and, respectively, the upper and lower parts of the stand. Both the collar and the stand are duplicated.
The processed collar is completely sewn into the stand, for this it is inserted between the front and back parts of the stand, combining its lower cut with the top cut of the stand, and the stand is turned along the upper and side cuts. , which is a stand-up collar.
collar collar is a type of stand-up collar. As a rule, it has a rectangular shape, so it is cut out in one piece (the upper and lower collar are one piece). To ensure drape, the collar detail is cut along the oblique. Connect to the neck in the same way as the rack.
Collar in a product with a lining they put it between the underboard and the neck of the base: with the lower collar - to the top of the product, the upper one - to the lining, and sweep it in.
The collar is sewn in two stages: first, the upper collar - from ledge to ledge, then also the lower one. Seam width 0.7-1cm. The sewing-in seam is ironed out: the allowances of the collar parts are turned up, towards the collar, the allowances of the back and front parts are folded down.
After that, the seam must be fixed, for this, the lower allowances are fastened with a running line or pins, combining the control points on the main and lining parts of the product and laying the line close to the stitching seam. If the fabric is too thick, it will be difficult to lay the line in the right place, in this case, the allowance is fixed manually "back needle".
When processing a one-piece collar with shelves (shawl collar) first, the details of the collar (separately upper and lower) are connected along the middle seam. Then, folded with the front sides inward, the upper one-piece collar with a selection is basted on the lower one-piece collar with shelves. Turn the collar with a seam 0.5-0.7 cm, while turning the edge of the bead. If necessary, the seam allowances of turning are trimmed.
The seam is ironed out. The collar is turned inside out, straightened and swept out. When basting along the collar and the upper part of the collar, they form an edging from the upper collar, basting from the side of the lower one. At the level of the first side loop, the piping goes to the other side of the seam - we sweep the piping from the side of the band, forming it from the front part. Now the collar and edge of the bead should be ironed.
We left the collar not connected to the back - we carry out the seam of the connection (0.7-1 cm), we sew the upper collar into the neck of the back lining, the lower collar into the neck of the top of the back. We cut the seams for sewing the collar into the neck of the top and the lining, iron it and connect it with a reinforcing stitch or hand stitches.
Elena Myasoedova
The choice of the method of connecting the collar with the neck and the general rules for connecting
The ways of connecting set-in collars with the product are varied. Their choice depends on the model and properties of the materials used for sewing the product. Connection methods collars with a neck depend on the design of the fastener and collar and the properties of the fabric.
At darting collar in the neckline 4 plots:
1. From the middle of the back, not reaching the line of the shoulder seam 15-20 mm. The lower collar is swept in without landing.
If you fit the collar, then it will lag behind the neck, if you fit the neck - when worn, a fold will form on the back under the collar.
2. Above the shoulder seam (15-20 mm towards the back, 30-40 mm towards the front) - collar fit 5-7 mm.
If there is no fit, the collar does not wrap around the neck.
3. From the end of the second section to the inflection line of the lapel, or not reaching the end of the neckline 20-30 mm
This is the section of the oblique cut, the most extensible during processing, located above the bulge of the clavicles. Planted on a 5-7 mm neck. If there is no landing, the wrapping of the collarbones by the shelves is not ensured
4.From the end of the third section to the beginning of the board - tacking is uniform, without landing.
If there is a landing - the curvature of the lapel line.
Collar-to-neck connection without additional parts
A) in products made of thin fabrics.
The ledges of the sides of the product must be turned in advance (line 2). The pick-up or allowances for processing the sides are made so wide that the inner edge of the pick-up overlaps the ledge point by 1.5-3 cm. In addition, when processing the collar, before turning the upper collar with the lower one at the ends and flying away, it is necessary to iron inside out the cut-off allowance of the neck of the upper collar with a width of 7 ... 10 mm.
| The collar is folded with the product, placing the lower collar on the front side of the product, the cuts and notches of the collar and the product are combined. The lower collar is sewn in, laying a line along it and forming a seam 7 ... 10 mm wide (line 4). The lower collar can be pre-swept in. The stitching seam allowances are bent towards the collar, overlapped with the ironed fold of the upper collar, and the upper collar is sewn on (line 5), closing the sewing seam line of the lower collar. Stitching seam width 1... 2 mm. In conclusion, a finishing line is laid at the ends and flyaway of the collar (line 6). |  |
B) in products made of thick fabrics
B) If the upper collar is 10-15 mm wider than the lower one, then when processing the sides, only the outer edges and the ledge are turned to the notch, but they do not turn out on the front side of the side after turning
| The collar is folded with the product with the lower collar with the front side of the product so that the end of the collar is located at the point of the ledge between the shelf and the selection, the cuts of the lower collar stand are equalized with the cuts of the neck of the product (the cut of the stand of the upper collar is brought out beyond the cut of the lower stand by 10-15 mm and stitched both collars into the neck from the side of the product, while turning the ledges |  |
| The sides are turned on the front side, the corners of the sides are straightened, the collar is folded up, the seam of the collar is folded towards the product, the seam is bent around the seam with an allowance of the upper collar and stitched onto the product at a distance of 1 mm |  |
G) Stand Collar.
E) In products made of elastic materials and cotton fabrics, as well as in children's clothing, the collar can be sewn into the neck at the same time lower and upper, followed by overcasting the cut and sewing on the seam allowance on the product. The prepared collar is folded with the front side of the product, combining the control points, combining the cuts. The pick-up is bent to the wrong side along the line of the half-skid, closing the ends of the collar. The collar is swept in and stitched in with a seam 0.7-1 cm wide, while turning the ledges of the side. The seam is overcast.
Stitching a collar into the neck on thick and medium fabrics is very different from regular stitching. To thick we include such fabrics as cloth, drape, artificial and natural fur, leather of both types. That is, on all top, winter products, such as coats, fur coats, sometimes on raincoats, the collar must be sewn into the neck in the manner shown below.Therefore, among the sewing lessons, this one is one of the most important! Do not miss!
In a nutshell, what is the peculiarity of such stitching, then this is the following: if during normal stitching (light and medium-weight fabrics) the collar is inserted between the selection and the neck (or selection and turning), then with thick fabrics, each side of the collar is sewn into the neck separately - one side goes directly to the neckline, and the other to the collar and facing, if the latter is present. That is, the rake line is thus performed twice.
You can see how ordinary collars are sewn in at the link: What is a ratchet, we look in the article.
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A t Now let's take a closer look at how this is done specifically. In my example, the collar is a hood. But despite this, such a hood-collar in front looks like an ordinary collar and is made using collar technology. The finishing stitch on the collars, which will later be sewn into the neck using thick fabric technology, is usually done already on a fully finished product, because if it is done immediately, as is the case with normal sewing, it will interfere.
All photos are clickable to large sizes!
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photo 1
. Hood - collar, pre-made and ready to be sewn into the neck
photo 2-3
. From swept out along the edge (on departure, if it really would be a simple collar). Please note that the inner part of the hood - collar is slightly shortened. This is already the first feature of working on thick fabrics: when bending, they have a greater thickness and therefore require trimming.
photo 4
. Similarly prepared for further processing and selection of coats
photo 5
. We begin to pin the collar to the neck of the product, pinning each side separately. In this case, it shows how the back of the collar is pinned to the neckline of the coat.
photo 6-7
. We baste along the hairpins, moving from the shelf of the coat to its selection. The other side of the collar is already applied to the selection
Total 22 large photos (!) with detailed instructions In order to gain access to the closed section, you needgo to the VIP group. Read the details here:
