For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle
Constructing a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)
Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewn a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for myself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.
THAT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new, easy way (I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for creating a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.
No- I won’t give you a single finished pattern!
I'm not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.
Yes- sewing yourself is very easy and simple!
Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.
Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.
I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.
I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:
Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But I wasn’t very good with geometry and drawing during my school years. Even I, who adores both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.
And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.
We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))
But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.
We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.
And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.
- No confusing formulas
- No confusing calculations.
- And without the letter-number cobweb.
So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?
I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.
So... what is a pattern - the basis?
To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.
Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.
I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.
Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.
And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.
All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.
This is how it happens in the fashion world.
One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.
Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.
By the way - since we’re talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and
And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And it's very simple.
You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?
That's why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point...” - ugh!).
I want to awaken in you bitch. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.
Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line serves, and why it is located exactly here and drawn this way.
After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's like you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you’ll take up the drawing with the feeling that it’s a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!
As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”
So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and familiar simple drawing - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.
Where does the base pattern come from?
So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:
The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.
We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.
And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.
Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.
Yes, in the Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.
To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.
First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.
Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.
So, meet - PROYMA
When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.
That is, the pattern base contains minimum armhole size allowed. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.
Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.
Now let's get acquainted with the darts.
BACK DARTS – shoulder dart + waist dart
In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.
But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.
Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.
Let's get to know each other next... DARTS ON HALF FRONT
Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.
I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.
The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How it happens.
For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this flat circle of cardboard will now become convex with the help of a dart.
And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail
You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).
Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.
But that's not all what I want to say about the chest dart.
The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.
When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.
And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.
Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.
Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?))) Or else there will be more... Let's continue our walk through the pattern and now let's get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines
CHEST LINE
The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)
The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:
- We know that we finish drawing the back waist dart at the bust line.
- We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
- We know that the shoulder dart is in the front - we finish drawing it at the chest line.
- We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.
Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).
As you can see, there’s a lot of everything!! Therefore, go ahead - study, sew and enjoy life)))
WHAT TO DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASE? - you ask
And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.
You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series. So to be continued)))
Happy sewing!
For the hardworking - a bright light burns through life, for the lazy - a dim candle
A bodice for a children's dress is quick and easy. Part 1.
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Good afternoon, my dear mothers. Today we will be with you make a bodice for a children's dress. The bodice is the upper part of a cut-off dress - that is, a dress where the hem is cut separately, the bodice is cut separately, and then the bodice is sewn to the hem. We will create with you one and only a bodice pattern - and then, based on it, we will sew you many, many children's dresses with a cut-off bodice.
You may be surprised by my statement that based on one Using bodice patterns you can sew several dresses. Now below you will see evidence of my words in the form of photographs. And at the same time, using these same photographs, we will see what kind of bodices there are on children's dresses:
The bodice is above the waist. We will get its pattern if we take a classic bodice pattern (we will learn to draw it in this article) and cut it at a level above the waistline.
Most often we see a bodice at the waistline – it is also modeled from a classic bodice pattern, like this:
Yes, the most common bodice is above the waistline or to the waistline. But it’s not in vain that today we will draw a pattern for a bodice that reaches right up to the hip line, because there are dresses with a bodice below the waistline:
And there are also dresses where the hem starts only at the hip line, that is, the upper part of the dress, our The bodice is extended to the very line of the hips , that's how this elegant prom dress looks like ( I already told you how to sew this elegant dress in this master class).
As you can see, the same The bodice pattern will allow us to sew many different dresses and please our little one with a new thing, sewn by mother’s hands.
We have already sewn several one piece dresses, and now having mastered the technique of constructing a bodice, we’ll also sew a bunch of cutting models.
Making a bodice pattern for a children's dress.
Well... it's time to get down to business and create this classic bodice pattern for a baby dress. Especially for moms, I created a simplified way to create a bodice pattern.
We take measurements.
To create a pattern we need take the following measurements(Figure 1):
We get each measurement by grasping the baby with a centimeter
Measure T — at waist level,
Measurement B - at hip level(the most protruding part of the butt),
Measurement G - at chest level(under the armpits)
Measurement Ш - at the base of the neck(the measuring tape runs at the very bottom of the neck - it lies at the base of the neck, just like a string of beads would lie if it were exactly close to the baby’s neck).
I labeled these girth measurements with the initial letters B, T, G, W (hips, waist, chest, neck). For all calculations we need not complete the magnitude of these girths - a only half – HALF-circumferences or whatever I called them HALF BLACKS– half hip circumference, half waist circumference, etc. SO WE IMMEDIATELY DIVIDE EACH CIRCUM by 2 AND GET A HALF CIRCUM.
Back measurements:
Measure C- the length of the back from the cervical protruding vertebra, to the string tied at the baby’s waist (be sure not to be lazy, tie the string this way, most likely you will find the waist level on the child’s usually pot-bellied tummy) - this measurement does not need to be divided in half (this is not the girth) - its We write it in full value, not in half.
Merka L– the width of the back at the level of the shoulder blades, measured from one freely hanging arm to the other.
Why this way
you will draw a pattern in 10 minutes.
We will draw the pattern very quickly and simply - because...
1.) the entire pattern is inside the rectangle
2.) the bodice pattern consists of five lines - neck line, shoulder line, armhole line, waist line, hip line
That is, we draw a rectangle, then draw 5 lines inside it - and we’re done. 10 minutes of work and we have a professional bodice pattern that will suit all dresses.
So let's get started.
Let's draw a pattern.
Draw a rectangle, inside which we will draw our pattern.
Rectangle height – measure C + half measure C– this is the distance from the neck line to the hips (you can remember for the future that the distance from the cervical vertebra to the hip line in a person is always equal to 1.5 back measurements - that is, measurement C + half measurement C)
Rectangle width – half measure G+ 3 cm– that is, half chest circumference with an additional 3 cm for a loose fit (so that the dress does not dig into the body)
So, inside the resulting rectangle (Fig. 2) we will draw the entire bodice pattern - from the shoulders to the hips. We will draw the pattern very quickly and simply - it just consists of five lines - hip line, waist line, neck line, shoulder line, armhole line - and that's all.
We already have the hip line – this is the very bottom side of the rectangle.
The waist line is easy to find - you need to measure down our measurement C from the top of the rectangle - (that is, the length of the back from the cervical vertebra to the waist), measure this distance on both sides of the rectangle and draw a horizontal line) - Fig. 3 - here we have found our waist line.
Finding the edges of the neck
We find the middle vertical axis of the pattern - that is, we divide the width of the rectangle in half and divide it in the middle with a vertical line - this is center of the entire pattern and the center of our future neck (Fig. 4).
Now on both sides of the line we put classic neck width . It is calculated like this:
Divide the half-circumference of the neck by 3 + 0.5 cm. We put the resulting distance to the right and left of the center line - Fig. 5. - and mark this distance with dots. Here, we have found the width of the classic neckline.
But the points of the edges of the neck should be located slightly higher - we lift up slightly- for this from the points we measure up 1/10 of the neck half-grip + 1 cm– and raise the points to this distance (Fig. 6).
Drawing the lines of the shoulders
Now from the same central point (from which we measured the neckline in both directions) we will measure in both directions extreme boundaries of the shoulders - it's simple - we measure in both directions by half a measure L. The resulting points are the extreme boundaries of the shoulders of our pattern (Fig. 7).
Now we remember that people have different types of shoulders - sloping, high and normal.
From the point of the extreme borders of the shoulders we lay down the distance 2.5 cm for normal shoulders(1.5 cm for high shoulders or 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders) - fig. 10.
Hurray - the hardest part is already over, now to draw a slanted shoulder line, you just need to connect the point of the high edge of the neckline and the low point on the shoulder line (Fig. 11). And so we drew the line of the shoulders.
And don’t let it scare you that these shoulder lines on the pattern turned out to be so sloping - this is correct, this is how it should be. The shoulder lines on the pattern are always inclined more than the child’s natural shoulders. You don’t have to think: “Oh, there’s some kind of strong slope, my girl doesn’t have the sloping shoulders at all like those in the pattern, the author of the article has done something clever here.” It's ok, the sewn item with these sloping shoulders will fit perfectly with your child's shoulders when you put the tailored dress on him.
Drawing a neck line
Now we will draw a neck line at the BACK and at the FRONT.
Back neck line in a classic pattern lies on the top line of our rectangle (Figure 10).
And the classic front neckline deepens down the central axis to almost the same distance as to the right/left of the central axis (Fig. 11).
That is neck depth (classical) is calculated using the same formula: half-measurement W divided by 3 (i.e. equal to 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck)
To draw the neckline symmetrically You can first draw the right side of the neck, then fold the pattern vertically in half, just along our center line - and mirror our right side of the neck on the left (through carbon paper or by piercing holes with a pin)
Finding the chest line
We need to find the chest line in order to draw armholes. Because the armholes end exactly at the chest line. Without this chest line we won't know to where exactly we need to draw these armholes - will the armhole be large enough or will the armhole dig into the child's armpit. Therefore, we find the chest line - and then we can be sure that the armhole line will be ideal for our child's arms.
That is, the level of the chest line is the height of our future armholes.
The chest line (aka armhole height) is always calculated from the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest - Divide the half-circumference of the chest by 4 and add 7 cm. We measure the resulting distance down from the extreme point of the shoulder (Fig. 12).
Draw the armhole line.
Now we can all safely draw armhole line (holes for the arms) - from the shoulder down and smoothly rounded to the side of the rectangle along the chest line (Fig. 13).
I make a rounding to the armpit by hand and by eye. If you are not sure that you are drawing correctly, you can follow this rule for rounding armholes: start a smooth rounding at a distance of 2/3 of the height of the armhole - that is, 2/3 of the height of the armhole, the line simply goes down vertically, and not reaching 1/3 to the chest line begins its smooth curve towards the armpit.
In the FRONT part, the armhole usually bends more towards the central axis (Fig. 14). But if the dress model is sleeveless, then the front and back armholes can be the same in outline (just vertically down and rounding towards the armpit).
To draw the armholes the same on the left and right you can do this: first draw a line for the right armhole, then fold the pattern vertically in half (along the center line) - and mirror our right armhole line on the left (through carbon paper or by piercing holes with a pin).
Draw the side lines + round off the hip line
Now the pattern is almost ready - or rather, it is ready for those mothers whose girls eat well and do not yet have a waist. In your case, there is no need to fit the dress - it will be cut in a straight line under the armhole line (that is, coincide with the sides of our rectangle) - Fig. 15. And to be honest, all girls under 5-6 years old do not have a waist but have a round belly - This is the physiological norm. Therefore, the side lines on the bodice for this age are usually always straight and not fitted.
If your child has a significant difference between the hip and waist measurements, then we will now reflect this difference in our pattern - Fig. 16.
For example, let’s say the half-circumference of the hips is 70 cm and the half-circumference of the waist is 62 cm – i.e. the difference between these values is 8 cm. Then the waist line should be 8 cm shorter than the hip line in our pattern.
And in theory, we should remove 4 cm from the sides on the right and 4 on the left - but here we remember about the freedom of fit and remove not 4, but only 3-2 cm - and we get a slight curve at the waist, just for beauty .
And if your girl is already over 10 years old and has curvy shapes with waist curves or she already has breasts, then you are welcome to my other
Now we have to remember to do it the bottom line of the pattern is straight horizontal - and slightly rounded- that is, down from the center line - measured 0.5 cm and drew a smooth roundness to both corners of the rectangle.
So, we have just made a classic pattern for you (Fig. 17) - precisely CLASSIC, because the outlines of its neckline and armholes are classic (the neckline is right under the child’s neck), the armholes are exactly along the child’s arm.
And now from this classic bodice pattern, each time we will get a new and new bodice for the dress.
Each time, for each new dress, we will take this ready-made bodice pattern and slightly modify it to obtain a new bodice pattern just for the dress. All we will change is the neckline, the armholes, and the length of the bodice itself (to the waist, above or below the waist) - and each time we will get a new dress model with a new interesting bodice. Like, for example, in the picture below...
Happy sewing.
Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site "".
Patterns for children. WE'RE BUILDING A PATTERN FOR A LITTLE FASHIONISTA. Part 1. Step-by-step instructions.
Patterns for children. WE'RE BUILDING A PATTERN FOR A LITTLE FASHIONISTA. Part 1. Step-by-step instructions.
In this article we tell you how Make your own pattern for the base of a dress for a younger or older girl.
If you have a little fashionista, I mean a daughter or granddaughter, then you just need to master the technique of creating patterns for girls. Children grow out of clothes very quickly, and every time you want to update your children's wardrobe, you will have to create a new pattern. It may seem difficult the first time. But I assure you, the second, third time everything will be much easier. And the fifth time, starting to build, you will know all the calculations by heart. It's not difficult at all. Moreover, we offer STEP-BY-STEP instructions for constructing a pattern drawing. Line by line and the pattern is ready. It's simple.
>>>>>>>>
Today we will learn how to build a pattern basics dresses. And later, on the basis of this foundation, we will master the modeling of different styles of children's clothing. It's very exciting! I don't even know who will enjoy it more. You are part of the very process of creating a children's wardrobe or your little “client”, receiving new outfits as a gift from you. In my opinion, this is a mutually beneficial cooperation. Moreover, the benefit, first of all, is the moral satisfaction of both parties. This is cool!
To make the correct pattern, you must have accurate measurements taken. If mistakes are made when taking measurements, the drawing will turn out to be inaccurate and the dress will not fit well on your figure.
Measurements are taken with a measuring tape, which is not loosened or pulled too tightly. The girl, dressed in light clothing or underwear, should stand without tension, in a normal position. A cord or thin belt is tied along the waist line.
When taking measurements, it is necessary to clarify the height of the shoulders. Shoulders can be high, normal or sloping. Everything is like adults.
The correct construction of the drawing largely depends on this measurement.
As an example, we will create a pattern for size 32. You are taking your young lady's measurements.
Dress for girls
To create a pattern drawing, you will need the following measurements:
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Half neck circumference |
Measure at the base of the neck. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Half chest |
This measurement determines the size of the figure. The measuring tape should go along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Half waist |
Measure at the narrowest point of the waist. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Half hip circumference |
Measure along the highest part of the hips, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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The distance between the high points of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Measure by placing a measuring tape from the left hand to the right at the level of the protruding parts of the shoulder blades. The measurement is recorded in half size. |
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Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the lace at the waist. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Product length |
Measure from the seventh (protruding) cervical vertebra in the middle of the back to the required length (8). The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Shoulder length |
Measure from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Arm circumference |
Measure around the arm at the armpit. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Sleeve length |
Measure from the shoulder joint to the hand. The measurement is recorded in full. |
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Allowance for a loose fit along the chest line is 6 cm (for older girls, add 5 cm for a loose fit), along the waist line, 2 cm (for older girls, add 1 cm), along the hip line, 3 cm (for older girls, 2 cm). |
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On the left side of a sheet of paper,
Stepping back 7 centimeters from the top cut, draw a vertical line on which to measure the length of the dress and place points A and H. Draw horizontal lines through points A and H to the right.
From point A to the right, set aside the half-chest measurement plus 6cm for a loose fit (for older girls, add 5cm for a loose fit) and place point B.
AB = 32 + 6 = 38 cm.
From point B, lower the perpendicular until it intersects the bottom line. Designate the intersection point as H1.
From point A down, set aside the length of the back to the waist plus 1 cm (for older girls plus 0.5 cm) and place point T.
AT = 29 + 1 = 30 cm.
Draw a horizontal line through point T to the right. Designate the point of intersection with line BH1 as T1.
From point T down, set aside 1/2 of the back length measurement to the waist and place point B
29: 2= 14.5 cm
Through point B to the right, draw a horizontal line until it intersects with line BH1. Designate the intersection point as B1.
From point A to the right, set aside the back width measurement plus 1.5 cm and place point A1
14 + 1.5 = 15.5 cm
Armhole width.
From point A1 to the right, set aside ¼ of the half-chest measurement plus 1 cm (for older girls, plus 0.5 cm) and place point A2.
A1A2 = 32: 4 + 1 =9 cm.
From points A1 and A2 down, draw vertical lines of arbitrary length.
From point A to the right, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-circumference measurement plus 0.5 cm and place point A3.
AA3 = 14: 3 + 0.5 = 5.2 cm.
From point A3 upward, draw a perpendicular, on which set aside 1/10 of the neck half-girth measurement plus 0.8 cm and place point A4.
A3A4 = 14:10 + 0.8 = 2.2 cm.
Divide the angle at point A3 in half, from point A3 along the line dividing the angle, set aside 1/10 of the neck half-girth measurement minus 0.3 cm and place point A5.
A3A5 = 14: 10 - 0.3 = 1.1 cm.
Connect points A4, A5, A with a smooth concave line.
Back shoulder line.
From point A1 down, set aside 2.5 cm for normal shoulders (1.5 cm for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders) and place point P. Connect points A4 and P with a straight line on which
Remove the shoulder length measurement from point A4 plus 1.6 cm for the dart and place point P1.
A4P1 = 10.3 + 1.6 = 11.9 cm.
From point A4 to the right, set aside 3.5 - 4 cm and place point O. From point O down, draw a vertical line, on which set aside 6 cm and place point O1. From point O to the right, along line A4P1, set aside 1.6 cm and place point O2. Connect point O1 with a straight line to point O2, on which set aside the value of segment OO1 from point O1 and place point O3. This construction can be done using a compass (see Fig. 10).
By connecting points O3 and P1 with a straight line, we complete the design of the shoulder line.
From point P down, set aside 1/4 of the half-chest measurement plus 7cm and place point G
PG = 32: 4 + 7 = 15 cm.
Draw a horizontal line through point G to the left and right. Designate the point of intersection with the line AN - G1, the point of intersection with the line of the armhole width - G2, with the line BN1 - G3.
Back armhole cut.
From point G up, set aside 1/3 of the distance PG + 2 cm and place point P2
GP2 = GP: 3 + 2 = 15: 3 + 2 = 7 cm.
Divide the angle at point G in half and along the line dividing the angle from point G, set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and place point P3.
GP3 = 9: 10 + 1.5 = 2.4 cm.
Divide the width of the armhole GG2 in half and place point G4. Connect points P1, P2, P3, G4 with a smooth line. We get the back armhole line.
Front armhole cut.
From point G2 up, set aside 1/4 of the half-chest measurement plus 5 cm and place point P4.
G2P4 = 32: 4 + 5 = 13 cm.
From point P4 to the left, draw a horizontal line, on which set aside 1/10 of the half-chest measurement and place point P5.
32:10 = 3.2 cm.
From point G2 up, set aside 1/3 of the value of the segment G2 P4 and place point P6.
G2P6 = G2P4: 3 = 13: 3 = 4.3 cm.
Connect points P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide it in half, set aside 0.8 - 1 cm from the division point to the right, and mark this point with the number 1. Divide the angle at point G2 in half. From point G2 along the angle dividing line, set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and place point P7.
G2 P7 = 9: 10 + 0.8 = 1.7 cm.
Connect points P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 with a smooth line.
We have finished building the front armhole.
Shelf neck cut.
From point G3 up along line H1B, set aside 1/2 of the half-chest measurement plus 3.5 cm (for older girls, plus 2-2.5 cm) and place point B1.
G3B1 = 32: 2 + 3.5 = 19.5 cm.
From point G2 along line G2A2, set aside the value of the segment G3B1 and place point B2. Connect points B1 and B2.
From point B1 to the left, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-circumference measurement plus 0.5 cm and place point B3.
В1Вз = 14: 3 + 0.5 = 5.2 cm.
From point B1 down, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-circumference measurement plus 2 cm and place point B4.
B1B4 = 14: 3 + 2 = 6.7 cm.
Connect points B3 and B4 with a dotted line and divide it in half.
From point B1 through the division point, draw a line on which set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement plus 1 cm and place point B5
B1B5 = 14:3+1 =5.7 cm.
Connect points B3, B5, B4 with a smooth line. We get the line of the front neckline.
From point G3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest plus 1 cm (for older girls, plus 0.5 cm) and place point G6.
Г3Г6 = 7+1=8 cm.
From point G6, draw a perpendicular to line B1B2, mark the intersection point as B6.
From point B6 downwards, set aside 1 - 1.5 cm and place point B7. Connect point B7 with a straight line to point B3 and a dotted line to point P5.
From point P5 to the right along the dotted line, set aside the measurement of the shoulder length minus the value of the segment B3B7, minus 0.3 cm and place point B8.
10.3 - 2.8 - 0.3 = 7.2 cm.
Connect points G6 and B8 with a straight line, along the continuation of which from point G6 set aside a value equal to the segment G6B7 and place point B9. Connect points B9 and P5 with a straight line.
(This construction can be done using a compass. From point G6, as from the center, draw an arc through point B3 to the left, until it intersects with a straight line and place point B9). Choose the option that is convenient for you.
Side seam line.
From point G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and place point G5 (9:3 = 3cm).
From point G5, lower the perpendicular to the bottom line, mark the points of intersection with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom as T2, B2 and H2.
To determine general tuck solution along the waist line, add 2cm to the half-waist measurement, for older girls 1cm (28+2=30cm), then subtract this value from the width of the dress between points TT1 (38-30= 8cm).
The size of the front dart opening is equal to 0.25 of the total dart opening along the waist line (8x0.25=2cm), the side dart opening is 0.45 of the total dart opening (8x0.45=3.6cm),
Posterior 0.3 total solution (8x0.3=2.4 cm).
To calculate the dress along the hip line, add 3 cm to the hip half-girth measurement (for older girls, 2 cm) for a loose fit; from the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress obtained when constructing the drawing between points BB1 (38 + 3-38 = 3 cm).
Distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back (3:2 = 1.5 cm).
From point B2 to the left and right, set aside 1.5 cm and place points B3 and B4.
From point T2 to the left and right along the waist line, set aside half of the side dart solution (3.6: 2 = 1.8 cm) and place points T3 and T4.
Connect points T3 and T4 with straight lines to point G5 and extend the line up to the armhole line.
Connect points T3 B4 and T4 B3 with dotted lines, which you divide in half.
Set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the left and right and connect them with smooth lines to points T3 and B4, and, accordingly, T4 and B3.
Front waist line.
From point T1, set aside 1.5 cm down and place point T5. Connect points T5 and T4 with a smooth curve.
From point B1, set aside 1.5 cm down and place point B5. Connect points B3 and B5 with a smooth curve.
Divide the distance between the points GG1 in half, designate the division point as G7. From point G7, lower the perpendicular to line BB1. Designate the intersection points with the waist and hip lines as T6 and B6, respectively. From point T6 to the left and right, set aside half of the back dart solution (2.4: 2 = 1.2 cm) and place points T7 and T3. From point B6 up, set aside 3 cm. Connect the resulting points.
Design of the dart on shelf.
From point G6 down, draw a vertical line until it intersects with line B3B5. Mark the intersection points with the waist and hips as T9 and B7, respectively. From point T9 to the left and right, set aside half of the front dart solution (2: 2 = 1cm) and place points T10 and T11. From point G6 down, and from point B7 up, set aside 4 cm and connect them with points T10 and T11.
Design of the side seam line.
Draw vertical lines from points B3 and B4 down, mark the points of intersection with the bottom line as H3 and H4. If the dress should be widened, then set aside 3-5 cm from points H3 and H4 to the left and right and connect them with straight lines to points B3 and B4.
From H1, set aside 1.5 cm down and mark point H5. Connect points H5 and H3 (and in the extended version, the lower point of the side seam 3) with a smooth curve. If the dress is widened towards the bottom, it is necessary to adjust the bottom line of the back. From point H downwards, set aside 1-1.5 cm, place point H6 and connect it with a smooth curve to the bottom point of the side seam of the back 3.
All. Pattern construction is complete
I remind you, that this is a dry drawing, a kind of frame from which a style of any complexity can be modeled. The simplest thing you can do yourself is a yoke on the bodice, or cut the dress along the waistline and gather the lower part of the dress (skirt), or make a frill along the bottom of the dress, etc.
P.S. An error has crept in! Indicated: From point G2 along the angle dividing line, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and place point P7. G2 P7 = 9: 10 + 0.8 = 1.7 cm.
1/3 of the armhole in the description is not correct, but in the calculations it is indicated correctly (divide the armhole by 10)
Shoulder length - 11cm
Half neck circumference - 16.5 cm
Half chest circumference - 36cm
Sleeve length - 50cm
Shirt pattern for a boy. Creating a drawing grid
Draw a rectangle ABCD.
Boy's shirt length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to the length of the shirt according to measurement = 65 cm.
Boy's shirt width. AD=BC=40cm - half chest circumference as measured plus 4cm for all sizes: 36+4=41cm.
Armhole depth for a boy's shirt. From point A, put 18cm down - letter G (1/3 half chest circumference according to measurement plus 6cm for all sizes): 36/3+6=18cm.
From point G to the right, draw a straight line until it intersects with line BC - letter G1.
Boy's shirt side line. From point G to the right, set aside ½ GG1 - point G4.
From point G4, draw a vertical line down to the intersection with the DC line - point H.
Armhole width of a boy's shirt. The width of the armhole of a boy's shirt is equal to ¼ of the semicircle of the chest according to measurement plus 2cm for all sizes: 36/4+2=11cm.
From point G4 to the left and right, set aside 5.5 cm (1/2 the width of the armhole of a boy’s shirt) - points G2 and G3.
From points G2 and G3, draw vertical lines upward until they intersect with line AB - points P and P1.
Auxiliary armhole lines PG2 and P1G3 are divided into three equal parts.
Shirt pattern for a boy. Building your back
Shirt neckline for boys. From point A to the right, set aside 5.5 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to measurement): 16.5/3 = 5.5 cm
From point 5.5 up, set aside 1.5 cm and connect to point A with a concave line.
Shirt shoulder slope for boys. From point P, set aside 2 cm.
Boy's shirt shoulder line. From point 1.5 (neck) through point 2 (shoulder slope), draw a shoulder line 12.5 cm long (shoulder length according to measurement plus 1.5 cm for all sizes) - 11 + 1.5 = 12.5 cm.
From point G2, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2 cm. draw the armhole line from point 12.5 through the upper and lower divisions of line PG2 through point 2 to point G4.
Boy's shirt bottom. Set aside 2 cm from point H upward. Draw a curly line along the pattern for the back of the bottom of the boy’s shirt.
Shirt back yoke for boys. From point A, set aside 5 cm. From point 5 to the right, draw a horizontal line until it intersects with the armhole line of the back of the shirt.
From the intersection point down the armhole line, set aside 1 cm and connect it with a smooth line to the yoke line.
Sleeve pattern for a boy's shirt
Shirt pattern for a boy. Construction of the front
Shirt front neckline. From point B to the left and down, set aside 5.5 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck by measurement): 16.5/3 = 5.5 cm. Connect the resulting points with a concave line.
Shirt shoulder slope for boys. From point P1, put 2 cm down. draw the shoulder line from point 5.5 (neck) through point 2 with a length of 12.5 cm - shoulder length according to measurement + 1.5 cm: 11 + 1.5 = 12.5 cm.
Armhole line for a boy's shirt. From point G3, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2 cm. Draw the armhole line through points 12.5, the lower division point P1G3, through point 2 to point G4.
Side seam line of a boy's shirt. From point G4, lower the perpendicular down - point H.
Bottom line of a boy's shirt. From point H, move up 3 cm. Draw a curved line for the bottom.
One-piece shirt placket for boys. To the front of the shirt add 4.5cm to the placket as shown in Boy's shirt pattern.
Shirt sleeve pattern for a boy
To create a shirt pattern for a boy, you need to take the following measurements:
Boy's shirt length - 65cm
Shoulder length - 11cm
Half neck circumference - 16.5 cm
Half chest circumference - 36cm
Sleeve length - 50cm
Shirt pattern for a boy's shirt - sleeve modeling
Rice. 1. Sleeve pattern
Boy's shirt sleeve length. AD=BC=50cm - sleeve length according to measurement.
Shirt sleeve width for boys. The lines of the rectangle AB=DC are equal to 36cm (half chest circumference as measured).
Sleeve hem descent line. From point A, put 8 cm down - the letter P (1/6 of the half-circumference of the chest according to the measurement plus 2 cm): 36/6+2=8.
From point P to the right, draw a straight line to the intersection with line BC and mark the intersection point with the letter P1.
Auxiliary sleeve lines. Connect point O with dotted lines to points P and P1. The PO line is divided in half and 1.5 cm is set aside from the division point upward at a right angle to the dotted line.
Divide the dotted line OP1 into 4 equal parts and set aside 1 cm from the top division upward, and 0.5 cm from the bottom division downward.
The okat line is drawn through points P, 1.5, O, 1, the middle of line OP1, point 0.5 to point P1.
Side and bottom lines of sleeves. From point D to the right, set aside 3 cm and connect it with stitch P. Then from point C to the left, set aside 3 cm and connected to point P. Then from point C to the left, set aside 3 cm and connected to point P1.
Slit for clasp. Divide the distance from point H to point 3 on the left in half and draw a line 8 cm long from the division point upward.
Additionally it is necessary to build Rack pattern And collar, and also Sleeve cuff pattern. All three patterns are constructed similarly to patterns for women's blouses.
Stand collar pattern
Rice. 2. Pattern for a collar for a boy’s shirt
To create a stand-up collar pattern, measure the length of the neckline according to the shirt pattern along with the placket (without allowance for processing the placket).
Set aside 1/2 the length of the measured value - DC. Height of the rectangle = 11cm (see Fig. 2. pattern of a collar for a boy’s shirt).
Build a collar as shown in Fig. 2. Cut the stand and cut it separately from the flyaway collar.
Pattern-basis of trousers for boys
Pattern-basis of trousers for a school-age boy
The exact pattern for the basis of trousers for a boy is the main pattern, which can be used in the future to model various styles of trousers. We recommend that you create a pattern for the base of boy's trousers on graph paper and save without cutting. Take the contours of the pattern onto tracing paper and then model it.
Pattern-basis of trousers for a school-age boy (Size 38)
To enlarge the pattern of trousers for boys, click on the picture
Pattern-basis of trousers for a boy: take measurements
To create a pattern for the base of trousers for a boy, you need to take the following measurements:
1. Length of trousers on the side……………..80 centimeters
2. Waist semicircle………..34 centimeters
3. Semi-circle of hips………..38 centimeters
Pattern for the base of trousers for a boy: creating a pattern for the front half
Draw a rectangle ABCD.
Boy's trouser width. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to 25 centimeters (1/2 the semicircle of the hips by measurement plus 6 centimeters for all sizes): 38:2 + 6 = 25.
IMPORTANT! If you want to make tighter trousers, the increase in fit should be reduced.
Boy's trouser length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 80 centimeters (the length of the trousers as measured).
Boy's trouser step line. From point A, lay down 21 cm and place point W (1/2 the semicircle of the hips by measurement plus 2 centimeters for all sizes): 38: 2 + 2 = 21.
From point Ш, a straight line is drawn to the right until it intersects with line ВС, the intersection point is designated by the letter Ш1.
LINE of bow trousers for boys. 4 centimeters are set aside from point Ш1 to the left. From point 4, draw a straight line upward until it intersects with line AB and place a point T. Then, 4 centimeters are set aside from point 4 upward. The bow line is drawn through points T, 4, Ш1.
From point T, 20 centimeters are set aside to the left and point T1 is placed (1/2 of the semicircle of the waist by measurement plus 3 centimeters for all sizes): 34: 2 + 3 = 20.
The Ш1С line is divided in half and 6 centimeters are laid upward from the division point. From point 6 to the left, draw a straight line until it intersects with line AD.
Arrow line of trousers for boys. Line ШШ1 is divided in half and through the division point a straight line is drawn down to the intersection with the DC line and up to the intersection with the AB line. The point of intersection of the waist line is designated by the letter T2.
Bottom line of trousers for boys. From point D, 3 centimeters are set aside to the right and point H is placed. From point C, 3 centimeters are set aside to the left and point H1 is placed. Points H and H1 are connected.
Points Ш1 and Н1 are connected.
Points T2, Ш, Н are connected.
Darts or pleats at the waistline. 2.5 centimeters are set aside from point T2 to the right. The T1T2 line is divided in half and 2.5 centimeters are set aside from the division point to the right.
Boy's trouser cuff. If you want to make a lapel (cuff) on the bottom of your trousers, then extend the lines from points H and H1 downwards by 6-8 centimeters and connect them with a dotted line.
Pattern for the base of trousers for a boy - building the back half
Draw a rectangle ABCD.
Boy's trouser width. The lines of the rectangle AB and DC are equal to 25 centimeters (1/2 the semicircle of the hips according to the measurement plus 6 centimeters for all sizes): 38: 2 + 6 = 25.
Boy's trouser length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 80 centimeters.
Step length and width for a boy. From point A, 21 centimeters are laid down and point W is placed (1/2 of the semicircle of the hips by measurement plus 2 centimeters for all sizes): 38: 2 + 2 = 21.
From point Ш draw a line to the right until it intersects with line ВС. The intersection point is designated by the letter Ш1. From point Ш to the left, draw a line 7.3 centimeters long (1/4 of the distance ШШ1 plus 1 centimeter for all sizes):
25: 4 + 1 = 7,3.
Boy's trouser knee line. The Ш1С line is divided in half and 6 centimeters are laid upward from the division point. From point 6 to the left, draw a straight line until it intersects with line AD and 3 centimeters beyond the line.
Boy's trouser waistline. From point B, extend line AB to the right arbitrarily. Then the AB line is divided in half and 3 centimeters are laid upward from the division point. From point 3 to the right to the intersection with the extended line AB, draw a waist line equal to 17 centimeters and place a point T (1/2 of the waist semicircle by measurement): 34: 2 = 17.
The waist line from point 3 to the left is extended by 5 centimeters.
Boy's trouser seat line. Line 7.3 W is divided in half and 1 centimeter is laid down from the division point. Then, from point Ш, 4 centimeters are laid off to the right and then also 4 centimeters upward. The seat line is drawn through points 7,3, 1, Ш, 4, 5.
Bottom line of trousers. From point C, put 4 centimeters to the left and put point H. From point D, put 1 centimeter to the left and put point H1. Points H1 and H are connected.
Side seam of trousers for boys. Points T and H are connected.
Boy's trouser crotch. Points 7.3 and 3 (knee) are connected by a dotted line, divided in half and 0.5 centimeters are set aside from the division point to the right. The line is drawn through points 7.3, 0.5, 3, H1.
Dart at the waistline. The 3 T line is divided in half and 2 centimeters are set aside from the division point to the right and left, and 7 centimeters downwards. Points 1,7 and 2 are connected.
Boy's trouser cuff. From points H1 and H, the lines are extended downwards by 6-8 centimeters. Points 6-8 are connected by a dotted line.
Dress pattern for a preschool girl (basis)
To create a dress pattern for a girl, you need to take the following measurements:
Back length to waist 26cm
Total length of the dress 50cm
Shoulder length 9cm
Neck semicircle 13.5cm
Chest semicircle 30cm
Sleeve length 36cm
Pattern of a dress for a girl - drawing
Rice. 1. Pattern of a dress for a girl
Dress pattern for girls. 1 step of construction
Dress length. AD is equal to BC and equals 56cm - the length of the dress according to measurements.
Dress width. The lines of the rectangle AB and CD are equal to 34 centimeters (the semicircle of the chest by measurement plus 4 cm for all sizes): 30+4=34.
Note: P With such an increase in the freedom of fit (4 cm for the half-circumference of the chest), the dress turns out to be quite loose. If you want to sew a more fitted model, reduce the increase to 2-3 cm.
Armhole depth. From point A, put 16 cm down - point D (1/3 of the chest semicircle by measurement plus 6 cm for all sizes): 30:3+6=16.
From point G to the right, draw a straight line until it intersects with line BC - point G1.
Waistline of a dress for a girl. From point A, put 26 cm down - point T (length of back to waist according to measurement). From point T to the right, draw a horizontal line until it intersects with line BC - point T1.
Dress pattern for girls. 2 step of construction
Side line of the dress. Divide GG1 in half - point G4 and from point G4 draw a side line to line DC - point H. Designate the point of intersection with line TT1 as T2.
Armhole width of a dress for a girl. From point G4 to the right and left, set aside 1/2 of the width of the armhole - points G2 and G3. Armhole width = 9.5 cm (1/4 of the chest semicircle by measurement plus 2 cm for all sizes): 30:4+2=9.5.
From points G2 and G3 upward, draw straight lines until they intersect with line AB - points P and P1.
Dress pattern for girls. 3 step of construction
Lifting the shelf. From points B and P1, move up 2 cm - points P2 and P3. Connect P2 and P3.
Auxiliary lines of the shoulder and armhole. Divide line PG2 in half, and line P1G3 into 3 equal parts.
Dress pattern for girls. 4 step of construction
Pattern of a dress for a girl - building the back
Neckline. From point A to the right, set aside 5 cm (1/3 of the neck semicircle by measurement plus 0.5 cm for all sizes): 13.5:3+0.5=5.
From point 5 upward, set aside 1.5 cm and connect to point A with a slightly concave line along the pattern.
Shoulder tilt. Set aside 1.5 cm from point P downwards.
Shoulder line. From point 1.5 (back neckline) through point 1.5 (shoulder slope), draw a shoulder line 9 cm long (shoulder length according to measurement).
Armhole line of the back of the dress. From point G2, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2.5 cm. Draw the armhole line from point 9 through the division point PG2, point 2.5 to point G4.
Dress pattern for girls. 5 step of construction
Side seam line. From point T2, 2 cm is set aside to the right. Draw the side seam line from point G4 through point 2 to line DC, not reaching it 1 cm.
Bottom line of the dress. Divide the distance DN in half and connect the division point to point 1 with a smooth line.
Dress pattern for girls. 6 formation shay
Pattern of a dress for a girl - construction of the front
Neckline. From point P3, set aside 5.5 cm (1/3 of the neck semicircle by measurement plus 1 cm for all sizes): 13.5:3+1=5.5.
From point P3 to the left, set aside 5 cm (1/3 of the neck semicircle by measurement plus 0.5 cm for all sizes): 13.5:3+0.5=5.
Connect points 5 and 5.5 with a concave line along the pattern.
Shoulder tilt. From point P2, put 3 cm down.
Shoulder line. From point 5 (front neck of the dress) towards point 3 (shoulder slope), draw a shoulder line 9 cm long (shoulder length according to measurement).
Dress pattern for girls. 7th step of construction
Armhole line. From point G3, dividing the angle in half, set aside 2 cm. Draw the armhole line from point 9 through the lower division point P1G3, through point 2 to point G4.
Side seam line. From point T2 to the left, set aside 2 cm. Draw the side seam line from point G4 through point 2 to line DC, not reaching it 1 cm.
Dress pattern for girls. 8th step of construction
Waistline. From point T1, set aside 2 cm down and connect to point 2 on the side seam line.
Bottom line of the dress. From point C, extend line BC by 2 cm, connect point 2 to point 1 at the bottom (side seam line).
Next see: Creating a pattern for a one-seam sleeve for a dress for a girl
Sleeve pattern for the dress
Charming dresses for girls. To sew such dresses for girls you need to build it yourself Pattern for the base of a dress for a girl And pattern for a one-seam sleeve for a dress.
Below we will tell you how to build a single-seam sleeve for dress for girls, and how to build the front and back of the dress, see:.
Sleeve pattern for a dress for a girl
Click to enlarge the sleeve pattern for a dress for a girl
The sleeve pattern for a dress for a girl is based on the same measurements as the pattern for a dress for a girl.
The calculations made when constructing a dress pattern for a girl are also taken as a basis.
Step 1 of constructing a sleeve pattern (for a dress pattern for a girl)
Draw a rectangle ABCD.
Sleeve length. Rectangle lines AD=BC=36cm (sleeve length as measured).
Sleeve width. AB=DC =30cm (1/3 of the chest semicircle by measurement plus 5cm, multiplied by 2 for all sizes): (30:3+5)x2=30.
Step 2 of constructing a sleeve pattern (for a dress pattern for a girl)
Sleeve hem descent line. From point A, set aside 11 cm down - point P (3/4 of the armhole depth minus 1 cm for all sizes): (16:4x3)-1=11.
From point P to the right, draw a straight line until it intersects with line BC - letter P1.
Step 3 of constructing a sleeve pattern (for a dress pattern for a girl)
Sleeve hem line. Divide line AB into 4 equal parts, mark the middle point of division - O - the high point of the edge, to the left and right of O - points O1 and O2.
From points O, O1 and O2, lower auxiliary perpendiculars down until they intersect with line DC. The intersection points are designated by the letters H, H1, H2.
Points PO and OP1 are connected by dotted lines, and the points where they intersect auxiliary perpendiculars are designated by the letters O3 and O4.
Divide segments PO3, O3O, OO4 and O4P1 in half.
From the division point PO3 downwards put 1 cm at a right angle, from O3O and OO4 up - 1.5 cm, from O4P1 down - 1.5 cm.
Draw the sleeve hem line through points P, 1, O3, 1.5, O, 1.5, O4, 1.5 to point P1.
Sleeve bottom line. From points D, H1, C, put 1 cm upward. From point H2 - 2cm.
Draw the line of the bottom of the sleeve through points 1, H, 1, 2, 1.
Pattern of a turn-down collar for a dress for a girl
This turn-down collar for a girl’s dress, the pattern for which we propose to create, can be made either acute-angled or with rounded corners.
If you want to make a collar pattern with rounded corners, simply round them according to the pattern.
The collar pattern is based on the same measurements as
Collar pattern
Draw a rectangle ABCD.
Collar length. AB=DC=17.5cm (neck semicircle by measurement plus 4cm for all sizes): 13.5+4=17.5.
Collar width. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 7 cm.
Bottom lines and collar sewing. From point A to the right, set aside 4.5 cm (1/3 of the semicircle of the neck according to the measurement): 13.5:3 = 4.5 cm.
From point B, move 4 cm to the left and then down 2 cm. Connect points 2 and 4.5.
The bottom line of the collar runs from point D to point C.
Collar toe. Connect point 2 to point C.
Stylish and comfortable! We sew a jacket for a girl
Summer is quickly coming to an end, and with it the school holidays. On September 1, boys and girls will again sit at their desks and meet their classmates and teachers. And in order for them to be comfortable at school, they need a comfortable school uniform. We have already published patterns for a jacket, trousers and shirt for a boy, and now, due to your numerous requests, we offer a pattern for a jacket for a girl.
This is a jacket for girls with reliefs, pockets with rounded flaps and two-seam sleeves - a real find for the first cool days of September! And with the help of our step-by-step instructions, you can sew such a jacket yourself.
ADVICE! To open the patterns in full size, open each one in a new window!
Jacket pattern for a girl: take measurements
Rice. 1. Pattern of a jacket for a girl - take measurements
To create a jacket pattern, we will need to take the following measurements (size 32):
Height - 128 cm
——————————————-1/2 volume
Bust circumference - 64 cm 32 cm
Waist circumference - 54 cm 27 cm
Hip circumference - 66 cm 33 cm
Neck circumference - 28 cm 14 cm
Shoulder length - 10 cm
Arm length - 40 cm
Back length to waist (DTS) - 28 cm
Front length to waist (accident) - 30 cm
Back width (ShS)
Chest Width (WH)
The length of the jacket at the back is about 43 cm.
The increase in looseness of fit to the half-circumference of the chest is 3 cm. Distribute the increase as follows: to the back - 0.7 cm, to the armhole - 1 cm, to the front - 1.3 cm.
How to measure the width of the back (BW) and width of the chest (SH), see Fig. 1.
Rice. 2. Pattern of a jacket for a girl - construction
We begin constructing a jacket pattern by constructing a grid. Mesh width AB = 35 cm (half chest circumference according to measurement + 3 cm (increase in freedom of fit for all sizes)). Mesh length AC = 43 cm - the length of the jacket as measured.
Armhole depth. AG= (armhole depth according to measurement + 1 cm). From point G, draw a horizontal line to the right. Designate the point of intersection with the sun as G1.
Waistline. AT = Length of the back to the waist (BTL) + 0.5 cm (increase on the shoulders) - point T. Draw TT1 parallel to AB.
From point A, set aside to the right 1/2 of the back width according to measurement (SH) + 0.7 cm - point P. From point B, set aside 1/2 of the chest width according to measurement (SH) to the left + 1.3 cm - point P1. From the obtained points, lower perpendiculars to line GG1 - points G2 and G3 are obtained.
Auxiliary points for back and front armholes. Divide PG2 and P1G3 into 4 equal parts.
Constructing a pattern for the back of a jacket
Back neck. From point A, move 5.5 cm to the right (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 0.5 cm: 14/3+0.5=5.5 cm) and up 1.5 cm. Connect points A and 1.5 concave line.
Shoulder drop. from point P, set down 1.5 cm. Connect points 1.5 (neck) and 1.5 shoulder descent with a straight line, continue the line. Set aside 11 cm (shoulder length as measured + 1 cm for all sizes: 10+1=11 cm). The shoulder of the back of the jacket is adjusted when sewing.
Back armhole line. From the corner with the vertex at point G2, draw a bisector 2 cm long. From point G2, put 2 cm to the right and 1 cm up. Draw the back armhole line from the extreme point of the shoulder, the middle point of division PG2, point 2 (angle bisector), to point 1.
Back side line. From point 1 (lower point of the back armhole), draw a vertical line to line CD, point T2 is obtained along the waist, the intersection with GG1 is point G4, the intersection with line DC is point H.
Calculation of waist darts. General solution of darts at the waist: Half bust - Half waist = 32 cm - 27 cm = 5 cm. Distribute the darts - from point T2 to the left put 2 cm - in the side back dart, 1 cm - to the right - the side front dart. Connect points G4, 2 and N.
The middle line of the back of the jacket. If necessary, you can fit the jacket along the middle of the back. In this case, the dart is built from point T with a depth of about 1-1.5 cm and smoothly reduced to point G. However, to prevent the jacket from being narrow at the hips, you should check the circumference of the hips after constructing the pattern.
Constructing a pattern for the front of a jacket
Front neckline. From point B, set aside 5.5 cm to the left (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 0.5 cm: 14/3+0.5=5.5 cm) and down 6.5 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 1.5 cm: 14/3+1.5=6.5 cm). Connect points 5.5 and 6.5 with a concave line.
Raising the front shelf. Through point 5.5, draw a vertical dotted line up and down - to the waist line - point T3. From point T3, set up the length of the front to the waist according to the measurements (DTP) + 0.5 cm, point B1 is obtained.
Front shoulder drop. From point P1, set aside 2 cm. Draw a segment B1P1 equal to the length of the shoulder according to the measurement.
Front armhole line. From the corner with the vertex at point G3, draw a bisector 2 cm long. Draw the line of the front armhole from the extreme point of the shoulder, the lower division point P1G3, point 2 (bisector of the angle), to point 1, touching the segment G3G4.
Shelf relief line. From the midpoint of division P1G3, draw a smooth relief line to line DC. Mark the point of intersection with the waist line as T4.
Darts at front waist. From point T4 to the left and to the right, set aside 1 cm, smoothly connect with the relief line. The top of the dart is 5 cm below the armhole line.
Increase on board. From point C, move 3 cm to the right and 1.5 cm down, draw a vertical line for the fastener. Draw the side line as shown in the pattern drawing.
Pocket flap and collar. Mark the pocket entry location and pocket flap configuration as shown in the pattern drawing. Mark the edging line and re-take the edging separately onto tracing paper. The configuration of the pocket flap and jacket lapel can be modified depending on your preferences.
Constructing a collar and sleeve pattern for a girl’s jacket
Rice. 3. Pattern of a jacket for a girl - building a collar
And the pattern for a collar for a jacket for a girl is constructed in the same way as the pattern for a collar for a jacket for a boy. The collar stand is one-piece with a detachable edge of the collar.
Pattern details - back, side, front, hem, collar and both sleeve parts are re-shot separately and cut out with seam allowances - 1.5 cm, allowances for the bottom of the jacket and sleeves - 3 cm. Front, side, sleeve allowances, hem, outer The details of the pocket flaps and both jacket edges should be completely duplicated with thermal fabric.
Pattern of a two-seam sleeve for a jacket for a boy
After the pattern of a jacket for a boy has been created and the pattern of a jacket turn-down collar has been designed, we move on to creating a pattern for a two-seam sleeve for the jacket.
Two-seam sleeve pattern - construction
Rice. 1. Pattern of a two-seam sleeve - drawing
A two-seam sleeve consists of an upper and lower halves and is built on one drawing. Then both halves of the sleeve are removed separately and cut separately.
When constructing a two-seam sleeve, the same measurements and calculations are used as when constructing a design drawing for a jacket pattern for a boy. During the construction process, you can refer to the jacket pattern.
Pattern of a two-seam sleeve - necessary calculations
Before starting to build a two-seam sleeve, we will make the necessary calculations.
Sleeve hem height. The height of the sleeve cap (AP) is determined by the vertical sides of the armhole. AP= (P2G2+P3G3)x0.4+0.3=12.7 cm.
If the figure does not deviate from the standard one, the height of the rim can also be determined using the formula:
VOK = 1/3 half chest circumference according to measurement = 38/3 = 12.7.
It has been experimentally established that the typical length of the armhole is equal to the half-circumference of the chest according to the measurement + 3 cm. This way you can check the correctness of the construction of the armhole line on the jacket pattern.
is determined by the formula: SHRUK = 1/3 half chest circumference according to measurement + 3 cm for all sizes = 38/3+3=15.7 cm.
Pattern of a two-seam sleeve for a jacket - construction of the upper half
We start constructing the sleeve pattern from the upper left corner. Place point A in the upper left corner and from it, lower horizontal and vertical lines to the right and down.
From point A, move down:
Height of the rim = 12.7 cm - point P,
Sleeve length along the front seam line AD = Arm length according to measurement minus 1 cm = 52-1 = 51 cm;
Elbow level AL = PS/2 - 1 cm - point L.
From points P, L, D, draw horizontal lines to the right.
Width of the upper half of the sleeve. From point A and point D, set aside segments AB=DC=15.7 cm (calculated value Width of the upper half of the sleeve). Connect points B and C, at the intersections with lines, points P1 and L1 are obtained.
Front sleeve seam. From points P and D to the left, set aside 3 cm, from point L - 2 cm. Draw a smooth line of the front seam of the sleeve through the obtained points.
Sleeve hem line. Divide AB in half - point O, divide AP into 3 equal parts, connect O and the lower division point AP with an auxiliary dotted line. Set aside 1.5 cm from the center of the dotted line at a right angle.
Divide VP1 into 3 equal parts and set aside another 1 cm from the top division down. Connect point O and point 1 with an auxiliary dotted line. From its center at a right angle, set aside 1 cm upward.
Draw the piping line of the upper part of the sleeve through point 3, the lower point of division AP, point 1.5, point O, point 1 and the second point 1. The highest point of the piping is point O.
Elbow seam line. From point C, set aside 5 cm to the left. Draw the elbow seam line from point 1 (sleeve hem) through point p1, L1, to point 5, extending the sleeve down by 2 cm. The bottom line of the upper half of the sleeve is drawn from point 3 through point D to point 2.
The inflection line of the front half of the sleeve passes through points P-1-D (dashed line in Fig. 1).
During heat treatment, the upper half of the sleeve is ironed along the elbow seam line, and pulled back along the front seam line.
Pattern of a two-seam sleeve for a jacket - construction of the lower half
Front sleeve seam. From points P, 1 (inflection line) and D, set aside 4 cm to the right. Draw a smooth line - the front seam of the sleeve.
From point L1, set aside 1 cm to the left. From point 1 (the edge of the upper half of the sleeve), set aside 3 cm to the left and connect to point 4 with a concave line. From point 3, set aside 2 cm in a straight line, connect to the notch line. This increase is made in case the sleeve needs to be narrowed a little.
Draw the elbow seam line from point 3 through point 1 to point 2 (lowest point).
Rice. 2. Pattern of a two-seam sleeve - cut details
Additionally, a 6-7 cm long and 3 cm wide slot is modeled on the sleeve. When determining the direction of the grain thread, the lower part of the sleeve should be parallel to the edge of the fabric.
To determine the mark for combining the sleeve with the side seam, move 3.5 cm to the right from point 4 (B. seam) - see Fig. 1. Point O - the point where the sleeve meets the shoulder seam. Place the sleeve along the edge - sew along the seam allowance with a stitch length of 4 mm and lightly pull it, pulling the bottom thread, iron it so that no wrinkles form.
Cut out 2 pieces of the upper half of the sleeve and 2 pieces of the lower half of the sleeve. Seam allowances - 1.5 cm, at the bottom of the sleeves - 3 cm.
Coat pattern for girls
Autumn coat pattern for girls
This is amazingly cute coat for girl for autumn it is not only very practical, but also very warm, since it is tightly buttoned up to the collar! In this coat yours girl no winds will be scary.
Coat pattern for girls given for size 32.
Despite the fact that much less material is spent on children's things than on adults, it is the former that sometimes cost more than the latter. And how you want to dress your baby only in the most beautiful and elegant dresses. To make your dream come true and not spend a lot of money on it, you can sew outfits yourself, especially since it is much easier than it might seem at first glance. Today we will create a design on the basis of which dresses of any style can be modeled.
Pattern for the base of a dress for a girl
So, before you start, you need to write down all the measurements. For our case, the following values will be useful:
- back length;
- length of the future dress;
- shoulder length;
- 1/2 neck circumference;
- 1/2 chest circumference.
This is what our pattern will ultimately look like. Now let's proceed directly to the diagram.
Step 1
Draw rectangle ABCD. Lines AD and BC are equal to the length of the future dress.
Width, i.e. lines AB and CD are 1/2 of the chest circumference + an increase for a loose fit. The latter is taken depending on what cut of the dress you plan to make: for a tight-fitting dress, take the value 2-3 cm, for a loose one - 4, etc.
From point A, measure down the depth of the armhole and place point D. The armhole is calculated using the formula: a third of the chest semicircle + 6 cm. If you want to achieve more accurate indicators, it is better to measure the armhole on the child.
About points G and T, draw horizontal straight lines to the right until they touch side BC. Mark the joining points with points G1 and T1.
Step 2
Divide line GG1 equally, set point G4 and from it draw a line down to the base. Set point H on touching the DC line, and T2 on TT1.
Then measure the width of the armhole from G4 in both directions. The latter is calculated as follows: a quarter of the semicircle of the chest + 2 cm. Thus, points G2 and G3 were formed. From each of them, draw a line upward until it touches line AB. Call the places of contact P and P1.
Step 3
From marks B and P1, draw straight lines 2 cm upward and call them P2 and P3. Connect them to each other. Divide PG2 equally, and P1G3 into three parts. These are assistant lines for drawing the shoulder line and armhole.
Step 4
To the right side of mark A, measure the following: the third part of the neck semicircle + 0.5 cm. From the emerging point upward, count 1.5 cm and connect point 1.5 with a smooth line to point A.
From point P down, measure 1.5 cm.
From the 1.5 mark (near the neckline) through the 1.5 mark (shoulder slope), draw a straight line equal to the shoulder measurement.
From G2, dividing the angle equally, measure 2 cm.
Draw a line for the back armhole. It is laid through the marks: shoulder measurement - point of equal division (PG2) - 2.5 - G4.
Step 5
From T2 to the right, measure 2 cm. The side seam line passes through: G4 - 2 - to straight DC, less than 1 cm.
Divide the straight line DH equally and connect the new mark with a smooth line to mark 1.
Step 6
Next, start “drawing” the front. From P3 downwards, measure the third part of the neck semicircle + 1 cm. From the same point P3 to the left, measure a third of the neck semicircle + 0.5 cm. Connect the resulting marks with a smooth curved line, forming a neckline.
From P2, measure down 3 cm - this will be the slope of the shoulder.
From point 5 (neck), towards the inclined shoulder (3), draw a straight line equal to the shoulder measurement.
Step 7
Dividing the angle equally, measure 2 cm from point G3. Draw an armhole line, the latter passes through the marks: 9 (shoulder) - lower division mark (P1G3) - point 2 - point G4.
Draw the side seam. From T2 to the left, measure 2 cm. Draw a seam line from G4, after 2 to the DC line, not reaching the last 1 cm.
From T1 down, measure 2 cm and connect the measured point with point 2 of the side seam.
Extend straight line BC from mark C by two centimeters. Connect new point 2 to the border of the side seam, point 1.
That's all, the pattern for the base of the children's dress is ready. You can use it to cut outfits of any style.
