Blanket edging. Making a cozy quilt: a master class for beginners with examples of techniques

20.12.202327.05.2017

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Today we will teach you how to edge a blanket with your own hands. In our article you will clearly see how to do this easily and correctly. In the example, we will be edging a quilt using patchwork. In fact, you can finish the edges of any blanket this way. Very often, the edges of a blanket become frayed during use; they can also be refreshed. And your favorite blanket will still serve you.

We really hope that this master class will be useful to you. To get started, you need to trim the edges of the new blanket and align its corners. If it is an old blanket, trim off the frayed edges and straighten them.

How to edge a blanket

From the fabric you have chosen for the edging, cut strips 10 cm wide. The length of the sewn strips should be equal to the length of the perimeter of the blanket.

Fold the ribbon in half (wrong side inside) and iron.

It will be convenient for you if you wrap the tape on a piece of cardboard.

Never start work from a corner. Leave a small “tail” of their tape at the beginning of work.

Use sewing pins to pin the ribbon to the front of the quilt. Step back about 1 cm from the edge. Sew until you reach the corner.

When you reach a corner, stop sewing 0.5 cm from the corner. The needle must be in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and turn the work 45 degrees. See photo.

We sew to the edge.

We bend the edging so that a 90 degree angle is formed.

The excess fabric forms a 45 degree angle.

Align the sides of the edging with the edges of the blanket

Sew the tape to the next corner.

The angle should look like this.

We continue to sew. When you have sewn all the corners and matched the joint, the ends of the tape need to be tucked inside. If the tape is too long, the ends must be cut off.

Sew the ribbon to the end.

Unscrew the sewn ribbon.

The angle should look like this.

We wrap the ribbon and sew it with a blind seam by hand.

Processing the corner from the inside out.

That's all the wisdom!

We hope you find this patchwork tutorial helpful.
Author Sandy wishes you inspiration!

For visual learners, we have prepared a video.

For those who like to understand diagrams, photographs and drawings, below the video is a description and a step-by-step photo master class.

Before proceeding with further work, it is necessary to measure the blanket in length and width, align the sections of the blanket, while cutting off excess padding polyester and lining.

The best way to finish a quilt is to edge the edge of the quilt with bias tape.

Bias binding is an even strip of fabric of a given width, cut at an angle of 45 degrees to the grain of the fabric. The length of the strip is equal to the perimeter of the blanket. The width depends on the edging method.

To achieve the required length, the parts of the binding are stitched together with a seam 0.7 cm wide. The seams are also placed at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the strip itself.

For our blanket you will need a binding 10 cm wide and a length equal to the perimeter of the blanket. After stitching the parts, the binding should be ironed in half along its entire length.

Stitching the binding:
Apply the tape, ironed in two folds, to the front side of the blanket, aligning the cuts of the tape with the cuts of the blanket. You should not start stitching the binding from the corner.

Break the stitching before reaching the corner of the blanket by the width of the seam.

Turn the blanket 90 degrees, remove the working surface of the blanket from under the foot and bend the trim upward (in a horizontal plane) forming a 90-degree angle with the blanket, as shown in the picture.

Aligning the fold of the binding with the cut corner of the blanket, return it down (in a horizontal plane), thus forming a fold of binding in the corner of the blanket.

Lay a through stitch, starting from the very edge of the top, with a seam width of 10-12mm, aligning the edges of the binding with the edges of the blanket. Sew to the next corner, etc.

After stitching the binding, straighten the corners and, aligning the width of the binding on the front side, bend it around the cut of the seam allowance.

Baste the binding using straight or oblique running stitches.

In this case, the corners should be straight, and the diagonal fold should be located in the middle of the corner both from the front and from the back of the product.

All that remains is to sew along the seam of the sewing tape to secure it in this position with a machine stitch.

Beautiful finishing stitches are obtained using monofilament.

If it is not possible to make an even seam, then it is better to hem the binding manually - with hidden stitches using cotton threads in the color of the fabric.

The marking should be removed.

Our blanket is ready!

And we have already given it away.

Our master class is aimed at those who are sewing a blanket for the first time!

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What questions or confusion arose during the work?

Surely everyone has stale bedding: a blanket, blanket or, for example, a bedspread, but you don’t know what to do with it and where to use it? Or maybe you have a favorite similar item that keeps you warm on rainy days or cold days, and you would like to somehow improve it and complement it with some beautiful and amazing details or embroidery?

We will talk about how to beautifully and quickly process the edges of a product, and also share how to transform a bedspread more colorfully.

Finishing the edge with a corner

This method of hemming at a corner is universal: it is simple, concise, and most importantly, beautiful. This way you can hem any rectangular or square items (curtains, napkins, tablecloths, bedspreads, etc.).

The first thing we do is align all the edges so that each cut is even;
We bend 1.5 centimeters on all four sides (to make things easier, you can use a fabric chalk);
We place the wrong side on top, and the front side on the bottom, because we will fold all the seams inside out;
For convenience, so that everything is fixed evenly, we iron the folds;
Next we select the thickness of the decorative edge. Since we took a bedspread as an example, we bend the edge inside out at a distance of about 5-6 cm (if you are sewing a napkin, you can take 2-3 cm, if a curtain - 10 centimeters).
We turn the blanket over with the front side out, take a ruler and use a special tailor’s chalk to mark our 5-6 cm on all four sides, in other words, we make even marks;
Having folded the fabric inward according to these measurements, iron it again;
We unbend the folds (except for the first 1.5 cm, they remain folded), see our ironed lines, and turn the fabric over to the other side. Now we see a corner that has been bent back, we take it and put it on another corner and we get an acute angle;
Now we need to bring out a flat corner in order to sew it up. To do this, you need to align two lines (5 cm + 5 cm) with each other evenly and pin them with a pin or needle so that the lines fit exactly into each other (the edges should also overlap each other exactly);
We take a ruler - a protractor and set aside 45 degrees at the junction where the fold ends (i.e. 10 cm from the beginning of the edge), cut off the triangular end. We get a right angle;
Remove the pin and turn the fabric over onto its face. It turns out to be a kind of cut off corner, and we do this with all four corners;
We turn each corner to face inward and mark 1.5 cm from the cut corner; we will sew along this line;
When the corners have already been cut off on all four sides, we simply need to lay a stitch along the marked lines (so that nothing turns out during the process, make fastenings). It turns out to be a kind of “bath” made of fabric.
Before bending everything to the front side, we lay out the seam of the sewn corner in different directions and iron it, that is, the seam should not fall on one side, it should “fall apart” on different sides;
If the seam is too large and bothers you, then you can pre-cut it by 0.5 cm. After the work done, the corners turn out sharp;
We iron our corners evenly on top so that nothing sticks out anywhere;
We cut pins along the perimeter of the fabric and lay a straight line of 1-2 mm, thus sewing on our edges.
That's it! At the end we simply iron our finished product again.

Processing the edge (border) using a hook

The border looks chic, and knitting it is not difficult even for beginner knitters; to begin with, you can master a simple border consisting of one row.

First, we knit the preparatory row with single crochet stitches;
We tie the last loop in the last column with a different color, the same color as you will knit the border;
At the beginning of the row we knit three air loops;
In the first of three loops we knit a half double crochet; to do this, insert the hook into the first loop and pull out the thread. There are three loops on the hook, we knit them all together. This is how we got our first element;
We turn the knitting over, skip the next two loops on the fabric and knit a connecting loop into the third loop;
We repeat everything from the beginning, only this time everything will be on the front side.

At the end, tie the connecting loop one last time to the last stitch, to the last loop. Close the knitting, and that's it.

Processing corners in a sense is a real art that you need to learn to master in order to create beautiful and high-quality products. This activity may well develop into a hobby, and now you yourself come up with individual, simple embroidery.

An oven mitt can be both a decorative element in the kitchen and a completely practical thing. It will also be an excellent gift for a friend or relative. Moreover, patchwork sewing of potholders (this is the technique we will talk about) will not require large financial expenditures, because all sorts of leftover fabric and even the smallest scraps lying around idle can be used.

In addition, today it is patchwork (the international name for patchwork) that is the so-called “trend setter” in the manufacture of such things as potholders, blankets, bedspreads, pillows, home bags, etc.

Beginning needlewomen may have a question: how is patchwork different from quilting? Quilting is a broader concept than patchwork (quilting - stitching, quilting). He included several types of needlework techniques, including patchwork, appliqué, embroidery, and traditional quilting stitches and stitches. And patchwork most often only means working with scraps.

And now more about the process of making potholders.

Square potholder in patchwork style

Patchwork is ideal for creating square potholders. At the beginning of work, you need to decide what colors of fabric you will use. Ideally, they should not only fit well with each other, but also be in harmony with the overall image of the kitchen. As they say, the details make the whole look. If, for example, the predominant colors in the kitchen are beige, gray, white, caramel, you can make the potholder in pastel colors. But a brighter option is also acceptable, however, in the ensemble it should be accompanied by some other bright decorative item (painting, vase, curtains, flowerpots, etc.)

If you have already worked in the patchwork technique, you will probably use leftovers from already used fabrics. If this is your debut in patchwork, don’t be lazy to do a revision in your closet. Often there is something lying there that you will no longer wear or use, but it will come in handy for such creative experiments. Pay attention to sales in fabric stores: small surpluses are often sold at a discount.

Materials for a pair of potholders:

2 pieces of linen fabric without a pattern - squares 24*24 cm each;
24 strips of linen fabric in several colors (24*2.5 cm);
2 pieces of wool blanket or cotton batting (also 24*24 cm);
Border - 250 cm (the color should match the main fabric).

By the way, you can make the border yourself. To do this, cut strips of plain fabric 6 cm wide and then sew them together along the short side. Once you get the length we need, press the seams with a hot iron, then fold the border in half and iron again.

And now additional materials that will be useful when making patchwork potholders: iron, scissors, pins, sewing thread, sewing machine (ideally, you can sew by hand).

Sew on the stripes

Under the cotton batting you need to place a simple linen fabric, i.e. 2 squares with a side of 24 cm overlap each other. We put multi-colored stripes on top; they have to be sewn directly to the batting.

We take two strips and with their right sides facing each other, fold them in the center of the square batting. Sew on one side. We bend the top strip and iron the seam. In this case, the stripes should “look at you” with their faces.

Now we take another strip and place it right side down on the already sewn, just ironed, last strip. We sew the strips along the edge again, then bend the last strip and smooth the seam again. Using exactly the same principle, we sew the next strips until the piece of batting is completely covered. We do the same with the other potholder. If desired, each strip can be sewn with a finishing stitch. Upon completion, the square piece must be trimmed on all sides.

Sew on the border

We put the border on the wrong side of the potholder, which we just sewed from scraps. At the same time, make sure that the raw edge of the border is connected to the raw edge of the potholder.

Starting at one corner, sew the border to one side of the square first. Before each new corner, you need to bend the border at an angle of 45 degrees. In this way we sew the border around the entire perimeter of the potholder.

Final work

Returning to the corner from which we started sewing, we bend the border to the front side. This must be done before you sew the last piece of the border to the tack, i.e. slightly short of the corner. Cut off the excess border, leaving about 10 cm for the loop.

The border needs to be pressed onto the front side of the patchwork square. For convenience, pin the border with safety pins so that it does not move. Make a loop from the remaining tip of the border and carefully hide the cut inside the border.

Now all that remains is to sew the border to the front side of the potholder.

In practice, such patchwork pot holders are very easy to sew, you only need to try it once. And then you can quickly decorate any kitchen interior.

Heart shaped potholder

To make a heart-shaped potholder, we will need the following materials: padding polyester/batting, bias tape, cotton fabric of one or more colors.

First we make patterns. Part A is 21 cm in the middle, part B is 18 cm. A is the main part, it is cut out with a fold, B is the upper parts where the arm is directly inserted. If these dimensions seem large to you, then you can reduce them: say, part A - up to 18 cm, part B - up to 15 cm.

We cut out two parts according to pattern A from cotton fabric, 1 part A from batting/sintepon for lining. Place 3 hearts together (padded polyester in the middle) and align the edges. At the same stage, we cut out 4 parts according to pattern B (two side panels with lining).

We divide the 4 parts into pairs, finishing the inner edge with bias tape or lace.

We place the resulting sidewalls on a large heart, trim them and sew around the perimeter with bias tape. You can use a zigzag stitch, you can use a regular machine stitch, or you can do it by hand, it’s not that difficult. We start sheathing from the middle of the top and finish there. We turn the edges of the binding inwards. This way all the parts will be connected and processed in one step.

The potholder is ready!

Pot holder in quilting technique

To make a potholder using the quilting technique, you will need:

small scraps of fabric in different colors
gasket (sintepon or thermal gasket with a layer of foil)
paper, ruler, pencil
needle, thread, pins, scissors.

The process of patchwork sewing potholders in this technique begins with the preparation of templates.

Draw and cut out 19 hexagons on paper. Their size is equal to the size of those hexagons that you see on your future potholder. For example, a hexagon measuring 5 cm with a side of 2.5 cm. You also need to cut out one hexagon of a larger size (about 1 cm on each side).

Use the large hexagon as a pattern, and use it to cut out 19 hexagons from the fabrics.

Place a small template on the wrong side of the cut piece. It's better to secure it with a pin.

Fold the edges of the fabric over the template and sew with basting stitches. Proceed the same way with the rest of the parts.

Then the two parts need to be folded with their front sides facing each other. Sew over the edge using regular stitches.

From the front side you will get something like this:

Continue sewing the pieces together. You will see that the result will be a kind of “flower”.

Then you need to iron everything thoroughly, pull out the basting and remove all the templates from the paper.

Now we cut out two squares from the fabric for the front and back sides of the potholder, and cut the same square from the spacer.

Assembling the potholder proceeds as follows: we fold all the layers of the potholder in sequence: the back, the gasket, the front side, the “flower”. Pin all layers together for security.

Now the potholder needs to be quilted. This means the stitch must go through all the layers, stitching the “flower” at the same time. The easiest way, of course, to carry out this process is with a sewing machine. You can also quilt the potholder by hand, making small forward stitches using contrasting threads. Hand stitching, of course, will take more time, but it will not lose the item. Cute, original, bright. But if this is a very long option for you, then the line can only be made along the “flower”. However, if each hexagon is quilted, the volume and pattern will be better emphasized.

Now you need to edge the potholder. The strip of fabric must be sewn with the same seam “forward to the needle”.

As soon as you reach the corner, you need to carefully wrap the strip and continue making the stitch on the other side of the potholder itself. The edging should begin from the place where the loop will subsequently be located.

You can also edge the potholder using a sewing machine, if you know how to do it.

The final part of the work. After completing the edging, point the strip of fabric upward. Continuing to stitch, we form a loop. Wrap the strip onto the wrong side of the potholder and sew it on.

Well, the potholder using the quilting technique is ready!

Yes, beginners may be intimidated by the lengthy instructions and the seemingly lengthy process. But in fact, everything is done quite quickly, and once you get the hang of it, patchwork will no longer be a labor-intensive process for you. Rather, on the contrary, you will only be looking everywhere for scraps for future work. You'll start with a potholder, then sew a blanket for your daughter's favorite doll, and then an adult patchwork blanket will come out from under your hands.

Categories,

Sew all three layers of the product along the contour of the front part at a distance of 0.75 cm (= the specified width of the seam allowances) from its cuts.
Cut the cushioning material along the contour of the front part at a distance of 0.5 cm from its cuts. Cut off the back part (= one-piece facing) at a distance of 2.5 cm from the cuts of the interlining material.

Facing with envelope corners: turn the corner of the one-piece facing to the front at a right angle, iron the fold. Cut off the corner, leaving an allowance of 1 cm wide from the fold.
Turn the facing allowances to the wrong side until the edges of the interlining material are cut.

Turn the facing over to the front side so that its edge covers the stitching. Pin the facing (at the corners the folds are joined end-to-end diagonally). Join the facing folds at the corners by hand using small stitches. Then stitch the border around the edge or sew it by hand.

Method 2: using an edging strip

Along the length (unless otherwise indicated), cut out edging strips 6 cm wide. For quilts with rounded corners, edging strips are cut out on the bias. Ready-made edging strips with ironed allowances are also available for sale.
At the ends of the strip, cut at an angle of 45° and sew the strips into one length equal to the perimeter of the quilt + 20 cm. Cut seam allowances to a width of 3 mm and iron. Thanks to the diagonal direction of the seams, unwanted thickening on the edging can be avoided.
Place a stitch through all three layers of the quilt at a distance of 3 mm from the cuts of the patchwork part.
Then cut the back part and the interlining material along the contour at a distance of 0.5 cm from the cuts of the patchwork part.

Fold the edging strip in half with the wrong side inward. Iron.
Pin the edge strip with the side with the cuts to the cut of the patchwork piece (start from the middle of one of the sides) to the first corner.
Stitch the edge strip at a distance of 0.75 cm (or at the distance of the specified seam allowance), starting the stitching at a distance of 5 cm from the end of the strip and ending at a distance of 0.75 cm (or at the distance of the specified seam allowance) from the corner. Secure the beginning and end of the stitching with several reverse stitches.

Then position the product so that the next (adjacent) side is on the left, and direct the strip first up and then down so that an internal fold is formed at an angle of 45°, going to the corner = the distance between the fold and the cut of the cushioning material is 2-3 mm. Pin the fold.
Continue stitching the edging strip on the corner: start the stitch from the end of the previous stitch, securing the beginning with reverse stitches, and after the corner continue along the adjacent side. Sew the edging strip around the perimeter in the same way, placing a fold in each corner.

Finish the last line at a distance of 10 cm from the beginning of the first. Determine the required length of the edging strip for the open area (including seam allowance), cut off the excess strip ends, stitch and stitch on the remaining area.
Fold the edging strip to the back of the product, forming a fold at the corners. Hand sew over the topstitch seam. Sew the corner folds by hand.

Method 3: without additional parts

Perform a decorative stitch by departing from the cuts of the product along the entire perimeter by at least 5 cm.
Along the contour of the front of the quilt, cut off the back and interfacing material.
Spread the sections of the front and back parts of the quilt apart and cut the interlining material around the perimeter by another 3 mm.
Use the patchwork part to go around the sections of the cushioning material, and turn the sections of the back part inward (that is, to the wrong side).
Sew the folds by hand.
After this, decorative stitching can be completed along the edges of the product.

Author's affiliation

It is advisable to sign the completed work in case it is intended for someone as a gift, presented at an exhibition or at a competition. It is possible that over time descendants will become interested in it, and for this reason it would also be useful to perpetuate the name of the author. The easiest way is to sign the work on the back with a permanent pencil. But there are many more elegant ways. You could create a custom plaque design with the artist's name, date, title of the quilt, and maybe a little personal message from the artist. Such a sign is sewn onto the back of the quilt after performing decorative stitching or before starting it: the second option is more reliable, since the sign stuck during stitching will never come off. There are special blanks for this kind of signs on sale. But you can make a sign with your own hands - using embroidery, fabric painting and indelible motifs.