The long-awaited New Year holidays are approaching, on the eve of which we invite you to make Christmas tree balls with your own hands. Such a ball will not take you much time; you will definitely have time to dress up your green beauty.
Kinusaiga is a Japanese technique for creating silk paintings, an artistic genre that arose, so to speak, on the basis of economy. Or rather, Japanese frugality. Originally, it was a way to “recycle” old, worn-out kimonos.
In the modern handicraft world, based on this technique, needlewomen create boxes, decorate easter eggs, create panels and paintings, and, in particular, decorate New Year's balls, which is what we propose to do today.
So, to create a Christmas ball we will need:
- round piece of foam plastic,
- nail scissors or a thick skewer,
- scraps of fabric,
- stationery knife for making slits in the workpiece,
- decorative braid, beads, satin ribbons for decoration.
First of all, we make marks on the ball blank along which we will cut the ball. It is convenient to divide the workpiece into slices. After that, take a stationery knife and make not too deep cuts. We will hide scraps of fabric in them.
To make it smoother, it is convenient to use a thread by wrapping the ball and adjusting the lines that the thread forms. You can divide the ball into as many slices as you like. But the main thing here is not to overdo it and not to make too thin slices, otherwise the workpiece may crumble during the process of notching and “hiding” the fabric. The slices can be of different widths, some wider, others smaller. There is room for your imagination to run wild here.
After the ball is prepared, you need to cut the flaps, cutting the fabric into rectangles that fit the length and width of your slices. We leave a good allowance on the flaps, which can always be trimmed after the fabric is hidden in the cut. Otherwise, if you leave too little seam allowance, you may simply not have enough scrap.
The preparatory stage is over, and the fun begins. We begin to hide the fabric in the slits. In order to hide the fabric in the cuts, you can use closed nail scissors, which are very comfortable to hold in your hand.
We hide first one side of the slice, then the second. When everything is ready and you like it, we confidently cut off the remaining allowances and hide the rest in the cut.
Glue was not used here on purpose, because if the fabric pulls to one side or something gets knocked down, you can always take out the piece and try again, having achieved the best result. best result. But if the fabric is glued, this will no longer be possible. In addition, without glue, the tension is more successful. There is one more nuance here. When you hide a piece of paper in a cut, it is better to hold the fabric with the finger of your left hand and move from the center of the piece, first in one direction, for example, to the right cut, and then to the other - to the left. If you use pressing movements to move from the middle to the edge, the fabric will lie smoother and without wrinkles. When both edges of the scrap are hidden, slowly run the scissors from top to bottom along the cuts to straighten out the small wrinkles that have formed in the places where the fabric is hidden.
Our first slice is ready. We do the same with each sector.
When your ball is completely stuffed with scraps, all that remains is to decorate the toy. The seams are closed satin ribbons, decorative braid, a thread of beads, in general, anything you want. We hide the tails of the braid deeply with scissors into the ball itself. Deep so that the ball, although weightless, hangs comfortably and holds itself by the loop. And don’t rush to cut the ribbon or braid. First, you need to hide one tail in the top of the ball, wrap it around the ball, and hide the second end of the braid in the same place on the top of the head, having already cut it off. Do this with each seam of the ball. On one of the seams, do not forget to leave the braid longer to form a loop.
Now, I have nothing against glitter, tinsel and store-bought toys when it comes to New Year's holidays. It’s just that sometimes we want something unique and stylish, something that we call our own. We'll take care of this.
Do you remember your first childhood toys? Mine were glass. These are dangerous for children and do not last long. But how cute and beautiful they are! Plastic toys have replaced glass toys. Their problem is that they are monochromatic, not of very high quality, and get boring pretty quickly. If you have a pile of boring plastic balls, I'll show you how to how to remake old ones Christmas decorations . I’ll also tell you how to make New Year’s toys using the kinusaiga technique.
Remaking old Christmas toys
New Christmas decorations every year at no extra cost? Easily!
Some of the old ones New Year's toys We will cover it with fabric, some of it will be covered with tape and paper. This makeover opens up a lot of possibilities for the design of your tree: a Tiffany-style tree, a tree with burlap toys, a tree with turquoise or even black ornaments. After all, finding fabric, braid or paper of the right color is much easier than finding the right Christmas balls.
Christmas tree decorations made of plastic balls - materials and tools
- Plastic Christmas balls
- Textile
- Scissors
- Thread and needle
- Various braids
- Paper with notes
- PVA glue
- Acrylic paint
- Brush
- Hot melt adhesive.
Updating Christmas tree decorations with fabric
1. Take our ball and measure its diameter using tape and a ruler. The circumference of my Christmas ball is 15 cm.
2. Cut out a template from cardboard with a diameter of 15 cm.
3. Trace the template onto the fabric and cut out a circle.
4. Take a thread and a needle and make a dotted seam along the edge of the fabric. At this stage it is good to change the braid for hanging the ball on the Christmas tree.
5. Place the Christmas ball in the middle, tighten and tie the ends of the threads.
6. Take a suitable braid, cut off a small piece and glue it with hot glue around the top of the ball. After the glue has hardened, trim off the excess fabric to create a neat bun.
7. From the same braid we make a small bow and glue it to the ball.
These balls can be complemented with any decor.
Renewing Christmas tree decorations using paper
1. Take Christmas ball and remove the hanging mount from it.
2. Take the paper, crumple it and tear it into strips. I used sheet music that I have stored specifically for handicrafts. I have already used the papier-mâché method to decorate a cardboard star.
3. Glue strips of paper to the ball with PVA glue.
4. We return the hanging mount to its place, paint it with acrylic paint in the desired color and stretch the braid.
It may seem that remaking Christmas tree decorations with your own hands will take a long time, because a Christmas tree requires at least 20-30 decorations. I dare to bet: it only takes 10-15 minutes to update one toy. If, starting in November, you spend 15 minutes on one New Year’s toy every evening, by the end of November you will already have 30 toys, and if you do two or three, then all 60 or even 90!
Christmas tree decorations made of polystyrene foam using the Kinusaiga technique
I purchased foam plastic balls when we went to. My inner drive whispered: Buy it, maybe it will come in handy! They lay idle for two years. And then I learned about the Kinusaiga technique and decided that the time for foam balls had come.
Kinusaiga originated in Japan due to the desire to reuse the rather expensive fabric of an old kimono. This technique is also called patchwork without a needle, because the scraps of fabric that are used for it do not need to be sewn. Initially, for the kinusaiga panel, a pattern is applied to a wooden plank. Then the master makes indentations of about two millimeters along the contour. Pieces of fabric are inserted into the cut grooves.
To comprehend the art of kinusaiga, we will make a more primitive thing that does not require such skill, but is no less cute.
Christmas tree decorations made of polystyrene foam - materials and tools
- Foam balls
- Small pieces of fabric
- Scissors
- Braid or rope
- Hot melt adhesive.
DIY Christmas tree decorations - progress of work
1. Take a foam ball and divide it into 8 equal parts using a rope and a gel pen.
2. Using scissors, make indentations about one centimeter along the markings.
3. Find out the approximate size of the ball divisions and prepare a template, as in the photo. The petals should be larger in size than the divisions of the ball.
4. Cut out eight petals from the fabric.
5. We apply the flap to the division of the ball and begin to compact the fabric along the indentations with scissors.
6. Cut 5 ropes or ribbons with a length equal to the diameter of our foam ball.
7. Apply hot glue along the sections of the ball and glue the tape. When there are 2 ropes left, they need to be glued so that the ends form threads for hanging.
8. We add a bow to the Christmas ball.
Here's another batch of New Year's toys self made ready.
In the next master class I will show.
Have you already decided what you want your Christmas tree to look like this year?
Kinusaiga is one of the types of art that combines appliqué, mosaic, patchwork and wood carving. The paintings are created from unusual scraps of fabric. This genre arose in the wake of saving, when you didn’t want to throw away old things and needed to give them a second life. This technique is part of the culture in Japan. All paintings that are made by hand using this technique are very expensive. In this article, we propose to analyze the most popular master classes on kinusaiga for beginners. If you love creativity, then believe me, Kinusaiga will captivate you.
Christmas balls
Step-by-step production New Year's balls in the Kinusage technique can be viewed using the example of a master class.
You need to take foam balls, lace, scraps of cotton fabric, a stationery knife, small scissors and a ballpoint pen, and a tool for threading the fabric.
The first step is to draw small pattern at the future New Year's ball. For beginners, it’s worth doing geometry - squares, circles, because it’s better to start with something simple. We draw everything with a ballpoint pen.
We run a stationery knife on top, plunging the blade to a depth of 1 cm.
Now we take a small piece of fabric, it should be 2 cm larger for part of the pattern. For example, in our case it is a circle. We take our fabric threading tool and set the fabric along the contour. There should be 5-8 mm left at the edges. We trim off the excess fabric and tuck the edges inside the foam. We work with this pattern along the entire perimeter of the ball.
And the last step is to decorate our New Year's products by gluing beautiful accessories: beads, lace, openwork.
Here they are beautiful balls turned out for the Christmas tree.
Bouquet of roses
Unfortunately, not on the Internet detailed diagram creating a decorative panel of roses, but don’t worry, we will tell you in detail and show you how to make such a patchwork without a needle. An example could be a panel made from another flower, for example, sunflowers.
To work, take thin foam plastic, scissors, a stationery knife, fabric, a picture and a frame. The entire manufacturing process is shown in the photo.
We take the cardboard out of the frame and glue thin foam onto it. Trim off the excess edges and place under a press for two hours.
Glue the diagram to the top using pencil glue. Carefully cut each line with a knife. We make small cuts, 2 mm deep. Next, we cut the fabric into scraps, a couple of mm wider than the required fragment. Then we glue each piece of fabric in place and tuck all the edges into the cuts.
Well, at the very end we insert the picture into the frame.
Panel schemes
We offer you to consider the most popular patchwork patterns on foam plastic, which are perfect for wood. Products according to these schemes can be made not only by a master, but also by a beginner. And some of them are suitable for children. They are distinguished by their simplicity. But it is worth paying attention that you need to work with a stationery knife, so you need to be careful.
These applications take a considerable amount of time, but the result is worth all the expectations. Embroidering such a picture with threads will take much more time. And if you already know all the basics of creating a panel with your own hands, then get to work quickly. Maybe you have a hidden talent for this kind of work!
Girl in a hat.
And some designs are perfect for the kitchen. They will bring a completely new atmosphere and add coziness to the room. Among these drawings are children.
And here is a ready-made option.
I’ll tell you how I did it using a simple ball as an example (in the vase on the left, red and gold).
In fact, these are Japanese traditional dolls that are made using a special technology: they are cut out of wood, then cuts are made on them with a special tool, and then fabric is tucked into these cuts (translated from Japanese kime - wooden edge, komi - tuck), thus the entire doll trimmed with fabric. For us, wood is too difficult, but, fortunately, it can be replaced with a softer material - polystyrene foam. This idea does not belong to me, of course, but there is very little information on this topic on the Internet, so I decided to make this MK. I'm sorry about the seats dark photos, it was already getting dark, I was in a hurry to finish it, because... New Year on the nose, in case it comes in handy for someone. For the same reason, the photo was not taken “in live", but I used similar balls at different stages of readiness, so don’t be confused by the fact that the beads, fabrics and ribbons do not match in places. They are still very similar, so I hope this will not interfere with the perception.
So let's get started. We will need:
foam ball
beautiful shreds
finishing cord
ribbons
sequins, beads, caps for beads (optional)
pins
measuring tape
pen or felt-tip pen
stationery knife
thick needle (not sharp, for embroidery)
glue stick
sharp scissors
glue Moment-crystal or something similar
compass (possibly depends on the pattern)
calculator (so you don't have to count in your head)
First you need to think about the pattern, perhaps sketch it on paper. Then you need to mark the pattern on the ball. Most often, the ball is symmetrical about the poles. Therefore, you need to find them first. I do this with two pins, stick them in on both sides and spin the ball, holding the ends of the pins with the fingers of one hand. When it spins, you can immediately see whether the pins are inserted evenly. Unfortunately, I did not find a mathematical method for finding the poles. You can, of course, put 1/2 of the circle in different directions from one of the poles and somehow find it, but this is a very long time.
Then we dance from the poles, use a measuring tape as a flexible ruler, and draw lines of the desired pattern under it. I used a pen, but if the fabric is very light, the line may show through, so in such cases it is better to use just a light or disappearing felt-tip pen, or a simple pencil. Then we cover all unnecessary lines (if there are any) with corrector.
Then along all the lines of the pattern you need to make slits with a stationery knife, to a depth of about 1 cm. If the pattern is small, then be careful not to accidentally cut out a piece of the ball. The knife must be sharp. My balls were not of the best quality, so even when cutting with a very sharp knife, the foam still crumbled in some places. There's nothing you can do about it, you can only glue it on. You need to cut through all the lines of the pattern at once, and not so that half the ball is finished, but then you have to cut further, and the fabric gets in the way.
Determining where to start. It doesn't matter where you like it from. Apply glue stick to the desired area.
We apply the fabric. We follow the direction of the pile if your fabric is velvet.
Now we take a thick, non-sharp needle (I haven’t tried it, but I think an awl or a thin knitting needle will do) and use it to thread the fabric into the slots and press it there. Shallow at first. We make sure that the fabric lies flat, without wrinkles; if there is a pattern on the fabric, then it is not warped.
Using sharp scissors, trim off the excess, leaving 3-5 mm of fabric. In some sources, I saw how they first cut out a piece of fabric, then apply it and tuck it in. Well, this is inconvenient! A little to the side, that’s it, there’s not enough in another place, and even cut out the patterns first, wasting time. It's much easier to tuck first and then trim.
Now we thread the needle completely.
Here's what happened:
We do the same with all other elements of the pattern. That's how beautiful it is already.
You can leave it like that, or you can further refine it. Due to the fact that the foam in my balls was very crumbly, for me this forced measure To hide defects, the cord covers all (or almost all) problem areas.
To glue the cord we need glue and the same needle. I use it to apply glue and thread the cord. Yes, I ran out of moment-crystal glue, but they recommended this one to me, I liked it, the smell is a little stronger, but it sets quickly and is transparent.
First, take a little glue and carefully lubricate the place where the cord trim will begin. Then we tuck the tip of the cord there.
Next, use a needle to lubricate the “seam” with glue, and glue it further. We recess the cord in the right places, if desired.
New Year's master class "Christmas ball using the kinusaiga technique." Author MK Maria Studilina. Kinusaiga is a Japanese technique for creating silk paintings, an artistic genre that arose, so to speak, on the basis of economy. Or rather, Japanese frugality. Originally, it was a way to “recycle” old, worn-out kimonos. In the modern handicraft world, based on this technique, needlewomen create boxes, decorate Easter eggs, create panels and paintings, and, in particular, decorate New Year's balls, which is what I propose to do today. So, to create a Christmas ball we will need: * a round foam blank * nail scissors or a thick skewer * scraps of fabric * a stationery knife for slits in the blank * decorative braid, beads, satin ribbons for decoration. First of all, we make marks on the ball blank along which we will cut the ball. It is convenient to divide the workpiece into slices. After that, take a stationery knife and make not too deep cuts. We will hide scraps of fabric in them. To make it smoother, it is convenient to use a thread by wrapping the ball and adjusting the lines that the thread forms. You can divide the ball into as many slices as you like. But here, I think, the main thing is not to overdo it and not to make the slices too thin, otherwise the workpiece may crumble during the process of notching and “hiding” the fabric. The slices can be of different widths, some wider, others smaller. There is room for your imagination to run wild here. I'm not even talking about the patchwork combination of colors and textures. After the ball is prepared, you need to cut the flaps, cutting the fabric into rectangles suitable for the length and width of your slices. I leave a good allowance on the flaps, which can always be trimmed after the fabric is hidden in the cut. Otherwise, if you leave too little seam allowance, you may simply not have enough scrap. The preparatory stage is over, and the fun begins) We begin to hide the fabric in the slits. Sometimes it is recommended to coat the workpiece with PVA glue, glue the flap, and then hide it in the cuts. I didn't use glue, and I didn't regret it. Everything turns out smooth and even. In order to hide the fabric in the cuts, I used closed nail scissors, which are very comfortable to hold in your hand. I found it inconvenient to work with a skewer, it is quite thin and round, I wanted something flat and stable in my hand. You can choose a tool that is convenient for you. We hide first one side of the slice, then the second. When everything is ready and you like it, we confidently cut off the remaining allowances and hide the rest in the cut. I didn’t use glue on purpose, because if the fabric pulls to one side, or something gets knocked down, you can always take out the scrap and try again, achieving the best result. But if the fabric is glued, this will no longer be possible. In addition, without glue, in my opinion, the tension is more successful, so that a mosquito will not undermine your nose =) There is one more nuance here. When you hide a piece of paper in a cut, it is better to hold the fabric with the finger of your left hand and move from the center of the piece, first in one direction, for example, to the right cut, and then to the other - to the left. If you use pressing movements to move from the middle to the edge, the fabric will lie smoother and without wrinkles. This is where my nail scissors turned out to be the most successful tool, because you won’t be able to straighten the fabric like that with a skewer. When both edges of the scrap are hidden, I slowly run the scissors from top to bottom along the cuts to straighten out the small folds that have formed in the places where the fabric is hidden. Our first slice is ready. We do the same with each sector. When your ball is completely “stuffed” with scraps, all that remains is to decorate the toy. The seams are closed with satin ribbons, decorative braid, a string of beads, in general, with anything you want. I hid the tails of the braid deeply with scissors into the ball itself. Deep so that the ball, although weightless, hangs comfortably and holds itself by the loop =))) I would advise you not to rush to cut off the ribbon or braid. First, you need to hide one tail in the top of the ball, wrap it around the ball, and hide the second end of the braid in the same place on the top of the head, having already cut it off. Do this with each seam of the ball. On one of the seams, do not forget to leave the braid longer to form a loop.
