Leather bag with embossing in the Sheridan style. Leather passport cover with embossing in the Sheridan style. Embossing on leather products in the Sheridan style.

I've been looking at it for a long time beautiful patterns on the skin in Sheridan style. Floral patterns, voluminous, complex. But this task requires a lot of special stamps and the ability to use them correctly.
Now I have a number of the necessary stamps, I decided to try making a passport cover.

Tools for work:

• vegetable tanned leather for embossing - thickness 2.5-3mm;
• black leather - thin, soft - for the sides and braid;
• stamps for embossing;
• rotary knife;
• stamp hammer;
• scissors, hole punch, awl, needle and thread, punch;
• stationery knife, pen, metal ruler, glue;
• slicker (wooden stick for polishing edges);
• paint and finish on leather.

1. Cut out the cover required sizes. I have it a little larger than a passport so that I can insert cards or other documents - 10.5 x 14.5 cm (folded).

2. We make a printout with the desired design. We wet the skin under water, apply the print and trace the design along the contours to transfer it to the skin.
If you have artistic talent, you can draw the desired image yourself :)
Then, using a rotary knife, we go along all the lines, cutting through the skin to 23 thicknesses.

3. Use a background stamp to fill the space between the drawings. Hit the hammer hard enough to get a good impression. We make sure that the skin is not too dry, but not completely wet.

4. After this, using stamps - a beveler - we begin to lower the skin directly along the line of the design. You need to hit the stamp quite hard, but without fanaticism, so as not to break through the skin

5. Use a stamp with a smooth surface to align the borders near the drawing

6. Using another beveler - with a beveled foot - we lift the necessary areas of the skin (petals, bends, etc.).

7. We go over the petals of the floral pattern with another stamp, giving them texture

8. Use a small background beveler to fill the space next to the main pattern to further highlight the volume.

9.After the drawing is ready, you need to round the edges of the cover. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a coin to outline the curves.

10. Then we move on to painting. Special paint for leather, with deep penetration. At first cotton ball paint over the main surface, then use a brush to paint the areas next to the pattern.

11. After this, when the paint dries, we go over it with varnish, polishing the surface

12. Now we move on to the internal “filling”. We need to make the sidewalls.
We cut out 2 wide pieces from thin leather the entire length of the cover, measuring 14.5 by 8.5 cm. And card compartments 9.5x7.5 cm, also 2 pieces.

13. We punch holes in the parts for the cards and cut strips to make compartments.

14. Then we glue both parts together with glue. We make sure that the small part is glued on the left side closer to the right side, and on the right side closer to the left side.

15. We go through a punch, making holes for the seam and sewing the parts together. Or you can flash everything on a typewriter, if you have one.

16. The sides are ready.

17. Now, also, observing the correct sides, glue them to the cover

Beautiful women's bag with a drawing.

During the manufacturing process we used the following types skin:

1. The front and back sides of the bag are 3-3.5mm vegetable saddle cloth. The skin is tough and smooth.
2. Handles and sides - Vegetable tanned saddle cloth 2-2.5mm. The skin is soft.
3. Inner pocket - brownie leather, smokey color.

Materials:

1. Fiebing's Leather Dye in MEDIUM BROWN.
2. Acrylic varnish ANGELUS.
3. Liquid acrylic paste Antique leather stain color sadl tan.
4. Bone oil.
5. Tragacanth.
6. YKK zipper length 650 mm.
7. Magnetic button.
8. Waxed brown thread ‘Daphne’ 1 mm.
9. Waxed brown thread 0.8 mm.
10. Leather glue.
11. Nylon cord d - 10 mm.
12. D-rings - 4 pcs.

Let's get started.

• We make a pattern on paper and adjust the drawing to fit. The drawing was taken in the Sheridan style. IN in this case I first printed, glued and finalized the drawing, and made a pattern on it. Dimensions of the front and rear walls: height - 280mm, width - 370mm. The side part of the bag consists of two parts. I made the pattern on one piece of paper. Width - 120mm, length of the upper part with zipper - 580mm, length of the lower part - 700mm.

• I drew the outline of the drawing for the lower part separately.

• Handles.

• Pocket.

• I cut out the front and back parts, adding 1 cm on all sides. I soak the skin for 10 minutes until the air bubbles come out and plastic bag in the refrigerator overnight. In the morning I take it out and wait until it reaches its condition (it should be a little darker, dry and cold to the touch). I secure the pattern with the design with tape. The tape should not get on the project; marks may remain. I transfer the picture with a pencil, there is no need to press too hard. Periodically I turn the picture away and check all the lines, because... The project is big, it's easy to miss something. You can place cling film between the skin and the sheet with the picture so that the paper does not become damp and does not tear when pressed with a pencil. The pressure applied to the pencil (stylus) should be the same as when writing with a regular pen.

• I'm starting to emboss. I cut all the lines with a rotary knife. The knife must be sharpened. We hold the knife vertically, without tilting it to the sides. If the project is large, you can wrap the non-working side again in plastic to prevent the skin from drying out.

• Stamps were needed from a standard set and homemade ones.

• At the beginning, all the lines on one side must be stamped #B197 (“beveler”), create volume for the drawing, highlighting the foreground and lower the skin in the background. On small parts I used homemade #1. We place the nose of the stamp in the cut and hit it with a hammer, moving the stamp, repeating the blow. The stamp must be moved strictly along the cut.

• Visually, I divide the design into sectors and emboss all the details in one sector, then move on to another. This is so as not to come back and wet the skin again. Let's move on to the flowers, I take the #P206 stamp and go over the petals with it, and with the homemade #4 I lift the skin on the petals.

• I do the same on the leaves, only making indentations with stamp #2. The centers on flowers can be made with ready-made stamps, but I don’t have them yet, so I depicted these different ones. I make veins on the leaves using stamp #V407, placing one edge at an angle towards the middle. I go through the veins on the stems with stamps #C431 and #U710, and the joints on the stems with stamp #3. At the end I stamp the background with stamp #A104. I tried to depict all the moments in the photo. I repeat, I do all these actions in one area, then move on. If the skin dries out, I moisturize it with a kitchen sponge, only the working area. Once the moisture has been absorbed, you can continue embossing.

• The front piece took me 16 hours. Set aside to dry on a flat surface.

• I take the second part out of the refrigerator, bring it to condition and also translate the picture, but taking 3 flowers and changing the leaves along the edge along the way. The rest of the part was stamped with a ‘basket’ stamp #Х502-2. I marked a vertical line in the middle of the project with a stylus; it should be barely visible. We put a stamp as shown in the photo.

• I walk one way, then the other.

• At the edges, I tilt the stamp slightly towards the center so that closer to the edge the imprint disappears. I finish the basket around the edge with stamp #C431, and the border with the design with stamp #A104. The back piece took 10 hours.

• I cut out the side parts. I didn’t soak the skin completely, I moisturized it with a sponge. The part must also be moistened in those places where there will be no embossing, otherwise stains may remain.

• I transfer the boundaries of the edging of the picture and emboss it with the ‘basket’ stamp.

• I sand the corners onto the parts with the zipper at the junction of the side parts. I apologize for the photo, the tool for thinning the skin will be more clearly visible below.

• Leaving space for the seam, I retreat 7 mm from the edge and, using a meter ruler and a bone smoother, bend the edges 90 degrees (the skin is still damp).

• After drying, I cut a slot for the zipper (the width of the slot depends on the width of the slider plus 1 mm). There are no large punches, so I cut the rounded ends with a knife with a narrow blade.

• I cut out the parts of the handle and the fastenings to them. I cut the total length to 550 mm, and after painting I trimmed the ends according to the pattern. The length of the handles to the bends is 470 mm, plus 38 mm per bend at the ends. The width of the handle is 46 mm, and at the bend it is 30 mm, because D-ring width 30 mm. The width of 46 mm was taken from the calculation of the thickness of the cord that will be sewn inside. The thickness of the nylon cord is 10 mm, the cord is tight and does not stretch. Part for attaching the handle: width 30 mm (D-ring 30 mm), length 80 mm, I made the roundings according to the drawing so that they fit in the places chosen for them.
• I'll focus on the handles. We paint the details of the handles. The paint was Fiebing’s Leather Dye in the color MEDIUM BROWN. I coat all the parts of the bag with this paint twice, drying for 2 hours. After painting according to the pattern, I cut out the ends of the handles.

• I moistened the folding places for the D-rings, inserted the ring, folded it carefully (the leather should be damp, otherwise cracks may appear on the leather) and with an awl marked the places of the first stitch on both sides. Next I take a groove cutter, set it 3.5 mm from the edge and make grooves for the seam. On parts of the bend from the mark to the sharp edge and along the entire handle from mark to mark. There will be no seam on the bend.

• I paint the groove inner side handles at the bend points and work out the end in this place.

• Using a punch in 4mm increments, I punch holes for the seam along the groove. The holes on both sides should be opposite each other so that when stitching the skin is not pulled by the screw; for control, use a ruler with an angle of 90 degrees. I punch holes on glossy magazines so as not to dull the tool.

• On the bend parts, I make the first hole at the sharp end. I moisten the entire handle, insert the cord inside and gently press the skin around the cord. Now we count the number of holes on the part that will bend in one direction. The first is a hole in the middle at the sharp end and count until the bend, I got 5 of them. I count five holes after bending and insert a needle and thread into the fifth, squeezing the skin around the cord, and insert the needle into the opposite hole. In the first stitch I make a double loop and then continue to sew with a saddle stitch.

• Waxed thread from Daphne 1 mm brown. I measure 3 - 3.5 seam lengths, insert the ends of the thread into the needles. The needles must be blunt so that they do not pierce the oncoming thread. We insert the thread into the needle and, stepping back about five centimeters from the end of the thread, pierce it with a needle, insert it and tighten the thread.

• In order for the seam to be even, it is necessary to sew uniformly throughout. I always start the thread from the front side first, and then from the back. In this case, both sides are right, which means from left to right, the second thread goes on top of the first. The photo will be below. It is necessary to ensure that the oncoming needle does not pierce the thread. When we start the first needle, do not tighten the thread all the way, leave a loop and, inserting the second needle, pull the thread back through the loop, making sure that the thread is not pierced and moves freely. I don’t put on a loop, that is, I don’t make a knot. Thus, we sew the entire handle. I reach the 5th hole from the bend, return the thread 3 stitches back and bring both threads to the end between the skin. I cut the thread flush with the leather, spread the layers of leather a little and melt the thread, and quickly connect the leather by tapping with a hammer. I cut off the excess ends of the cord so that it does not rest against the D-ring and melt the ends with a lighter.

• On the painted parts of the handles, I make a groove for the seam and use a punch to punch a 4 mm hole in the middle for the belt screw (for clarity, I did it after painting, you can do it before). I paint the groove. I moisten the bag fastening parts, put on the D-ring and carefully bend them, folding them in half. You can hold it in a saddlery vice while it dries. On the fastening parts, I process the ends at the bend points and paint the inside.

• I use a torzbil to remove the chamfer, paint the end with the same paint, let it dry a little, apply tragacanth and rub it with a board. I also process the ends on the handles after stitching. I glue the fastening parts together using D-rings. To glue parts I use Universal Glue 88 Luxe. I press it with clothespins, placing scraps of the same leather between the clothespins and the leather. I let it dry until the next day (10-12 hours), clean the end with a Dremel with a sandpaper attachment and then process it using the above method.

• I connect the parts of the handles. I moisturize the firmware area. I put the D-ring with the part on the handle and stitch it, the number of holes should match. In this case, I brought the thread to the inside of the handle, cut it, leaving 2 mm and soldered it. I process the ends with a Dremel, etc.

• I soak the handles in bone oil and lubricate them generously. I let it soak in for a day. For the finish I chose ANGELUS acrylic varnish. I cover it in two layers, leaving a day to dry between layers. The area is small, applied with a brush. I hang it on a wire in the holes for the screws. On the parts, I did not cover the fastening (gluing) area with varnish.
• We return to the front and back walls of the bag. We attach the pattern and roughly mark the top and sides of the bag. I apply the marks with a special leather stick and can easily be removed with a wet cloth. To prevent the picture from being skewed on the bag, measure the same distance from the top points of the picture to the top of the bag and trim the edge. Now we measure the bottom from the top (bag height 280 mm), the distance from the bottom points to the bottom edge should also be the same, if, of course, the pattern was even. Cut off the bottom. Now we measure the side edges, taking into account the same distance from the drawing, and cut them off. On the corners I use cups, coins, etc. etc. In this case, I have a coffee cup d - 70 mm. I cut off the corners one cup at a time; I can do some finishing touches with a Dremel. You should end up with two identical parts.

• Let's start painting. The paint is the same Fiebing’s Leather Dye color MEDIUM BROWN. Use a #4 kolin brush to paint the background of the picture. You don’t need to pick up a lot of paint; I dip the tip 4-6 mm into the paint. You need to start painting from the center of the background, moving towards the flowers and stems. We watch how the paint is absorbed into the skin, paint slowly and carefully. I also paint the borders with the drawings with a kolinsky brush, and the rest with a woolen swab. The basket and flowers remain unpainted.

• It took 14 hours to paint, the background on the flowers was painted once, the rest twice. I install the groove cutter from the edge 4mm and make a groove on the front and back walls of the bag, and on the upper side part for stitching the zipper (for clarity, I did it after painting). I paint the groove.

• I process the end on the cutout for the zipper.

• After drying, I impregnate all parts with bone oil on both sides. I let it soak for a day.

• Then I coat all the parts with ANGELUS acrylic varnish. 24 hours to dry. In order to highlight the embossing, all parts must be painted with Antique leather stain liquid acrylic paste, color sadl tan. The drawings should be covered generously with paste, I apply it with a sponge and also rub it into all the grooves with a toothbrush, and immediately wipe it with a dry paper towel. You need to wear gloves when painting and stock up on napkins. The time interval for painting on all parts must be the same so that the shade is the same. But initially the skin on the side parts was lighter, so I had to reapply the stain. 24 hours to dry. Unfortunately, there are no photos of stain application, because... I worked alone, my hands were dirty, but I had to work quickly.

• After drying, I coat all parts with ANGELUS acrylic varnish. On larger projects I apply the finish with a kitchen sponge. Soak in water and squeeze. You need to add enough finish so that one pass is enough for one strip of the project. You need to cover the stain in one pass, the varnish dissolves it and can be smeared with a sponge. After each pass, I rinse the sponge, the tap is constantly open. Everything must be done quickly and not crawl around in one place several times. 24 hours to dry. After drying, I coat all the parts again with ANGELUS acrylic varnish. This creates a third layer of finish. Let it dry for a day, more if possible. I also cover Bakhtarma with the finish. For this I use TAN-KOTE from Fiebing`s. I do not cover the gluing areas.

• We attach the handles. On the fastening parts I punch holes for the seam. I place the handles in the designated places on the bag, taking into account the same distance from the top and sides, and mark a hole for the belt screw. I clean the varnish in the gluing areas. I glue the parts, insert screws into the holes and tighten them to secure them. Literally right away I punch the main part (a punch with one tooth) along the guide holes. I'm stitching. The direction was indicated in the photo. I bring the thread to the inside, cut it and solder it.

• We sew in a zipper. I missed the photo with the glue being applied, but I think there’s nothing complicated there. We tried on the zipper, applied glue, waited the time specified in the instructions and carefully applied the skin. I pressed it and ironed it carefully so as not to damage the varnish coating. Using a punch in 4 mm increments, I punch holes for the seam. The ends of the zipper were covered with lining pork skin to hide the cut ends. When stitching, there is no need to tighten the thread too much, otherwise there will be waves.

• Using a pen, I mark the center at the ends of the side parts, as well as the bottom and top of the main ones. Before gluing, I attach the side parts and bend them around the corners of the bag. You need to moisten the ends a little.

• You should always glue from the center to the sides, otherwise the bag will turn out slanted. I glue the part with the zipper to the front part according to the marks. Wrapping the end with cling film, I press it with clothespins. I put scraps of RD leather under the clothespins so that no marks remain.

• I try on the lower part and at the joints I measure the distance from the picture to the future edge, taking into account the seam, it turns out to be 8 mm from the ‘basket’.

• I mark the edges with a marker (press only from the side of the edge) and cut off the excess. I sand the corners at the joints. Using a Dremel and sandpaper, I processed the end, used a groove cutter to make a 4 mm groove from the edge, painted the groove, cut a chamfer on the end, painted it, rubbed it with tragacanth, and with a 4 mm punch punched holes for the seam to the fold (punched from the center to the sides).

• I glue the bottom part according to the marks. There is no need to glue the side parts together! I clamp everything with clothespins and leave it to dry for a day.

20.01.2016 19:12:03

Ufa craftsman Alexander Fedotov makes exclusive leather goods. Moreover, his works are in demand not only in Russia, but also abroad. The master embosses leather in the Sheridan style. This style is very popular all over the world. His distinctive feature is that the drawings contain a large number of small details, decorations, carvings in the form of stems, leaves and flowers.

We met with a Ufa craftsman and learned a lot of details about his unusual hobby.

- Alexander, tell me how it all started?

One day, about three years ago, I received a salary in cash and realized that I had nowhere to put the money - I had no wallet. And then I decided to make myself a wallet. In general, I am a furrier by profession. In Soviet times, I sewed fur coats and sheepskin coats. So I have experience working with leather. I went online and looked at different wallets. self made. I liked the works of the Moscow master Roman. I contacted him and he told me that he makes leather goods in the Sheridan style. I also decided to make myself a wallet in this style.

I bought some tools and a piece of leather. However, the skin turned out to be orthopedic; it was impossible to make anything from it. Later I found out that only vegetable tanned leather is suitable for embossing. This is how I made my first wallet, which I still use today. Then my son asked me to make a belt for his friend for his birthday. Then I made myself a coin box and an eyeglass case, and the work began. For three years there was not a single day that I did not work with skin.

- What are the advantages of vegetable tanned leather?

There are three types of leather: chrome tanned, vegetable and mixed. Chrome and mixed tanned leather is treated with chemicals. For vegetable tanning, only natural substances are used; collagens are preserved in the leather. If you take chrome tanned leather and emboss it, it will not take the shape you want to give it. Vegetable-tanned leather shrinks in the places you hit, and the pattern is preserved, it turns out voluminous.

- Where do you buy leather?

In Russia, vegetable tanned leather is extremely difficult to find; in fact, it simply doesn’t exist. Japanese leather is considered the best, American leather is also valued. Turkish leather is very bad, Afghan leather too. I give preference to Italian leather; I order it from a Moscow online store, which is supplied from Italy. I take whole skins at once.

- Where do you find patterns for your products?

In one store I found a book by Don King, the founder of the Sheridan style, containing sketches of leather goods. From there I took some ideas.

-Where do you get inspiration? How do you come up with drawings?

When I walk around the city, I always look around. In the center of Ufa there are many old houses with interesting carvings, unusual curlicues, I take something from there. I leaf through books with national ornaments, patterns, and take a little from there. I find it on the Internet beautiful pictures. I follow fashion, watch fashion shows. I don’t turn on the TV at all, it’s distracting. While working, I quietly turn on music, mostly retro 80s, both Soviet and foreign: Deep Purple, Slade and others. This is the music of my youth. When I need to do painstaking, monotonous work, Richard Clayderman's piano music helps me concentrate.

- Who orders your products?

Mostly, of course, women. They order for themselves or for their men. Orders from men are received less frequently. I always listen to my clients, find out what exactly they want. If the client clearly knows what he needs, the design work comes to naught. But mostly clients say that they need a product of a certain size, and they ask me to choose a design at my discretion. This is where creativity begins.

It takes seven hours to create a sketch. I get up every day at 5.30 am and work until midnight. When the sketch is ready, I cut out a piece of leather and soak it. It should remain in water for about 12 hours. Then I take it out and start drying it at room temperature. About five or six hours. The main thing here is not to miss the moment when the skin becomes most pliable. First, a contour is applied to the skin, then the design is embossed. This takes approximately 16 hours. Then the product needs to be completely dried, painted, and edges processed. In general, the production of one small product takes three days. The bag can be made in two weeks.

- How do you find clients?

I don't even know the answer to this question myself. They find me themselves. Using social networks, through friends, colleagues, relatives. Word of mouth works. Even in the store, when I pay, sellers and other customers pay attention to my wallet, bag, and ask where I bought them. One day, while walking around the city, I went into a store that sold everything for billiards. I saw tubes for cues there, nondescript, made of leatherette. The seller told me that they had leather tubes, but they were quickly snapped up. We started talking and he asked if I could make a leather tube. So a new customer appeared.

I have a lot of orders now. As soon as I complete work on one product, I start on another. There are always three or four orders ahead. In addition, I have many interesting ideas that I would like to implement. Where can I find more time?.. I really regret that I didn’t take up leather embossing earlier, at least ten years ago. So now I would already have my own workshop.

- Do you want to make something unusual out of leather?

I have an idea to make myself a fur hat with earflaps, and emboss it in place of the leather insert. The thing should be chic and exclusive. You can also make beautiful, unusual shoes. I have a friend who is a very good shoemaker. But he is a drinker. I used to drink too, but thanks to my hobby I quit. The choice was: either do what you love or drink vodka. The skin overpowered. But I have a strong hand and a sharp eye. This is important, because leather work is extremely delicate.

I want to start making furniture - making exclusive wooden chairs with leather inserts. I want to make a leather watch, a floor lamp, and a lot of other things. But my hands can’t reach it: now a purse, now a belt, now an eyeglass case, now a bag...

As soon as I post a photo of the finished product on the Internet, new orders immediately come. I even wanted to leave my main job; I work as a quality control inspector. Although now it’s even difficult to say where my main job is.

- Would you like to take on students?

Three or four people are trying to become my students. AND teaching experience I have a big one. But I have absolutely no time to study. I can help with advice. On the Internet, craftsmen from other cities often contact me with questions, and I always try to answer them in detail. And so, I don’t have the opportunity to teach someone on an ongoing basis.

In addition, I always warn those who are going to do leather embossing that this is a very expensive business. A countless number of tools are required. I still haven't acquired everything I need for my work. I keep buying more. One stamp, the size of a pencil, costs about 750 rubles. And you will use it a couple of times a month. But at the same time it is necessary. And a huge number of such tools are required. Add to this paints (I currently have 60 bottles in operation, one hundred-gram bottle costs 850 rubles, and it’s enough for three or four purses), leather (one skin costs 15 thousand) and others necessary materials. All profits disappear instantly. For a whole year I sat on Chinese noodles... Therefore, many who start leather stamping give up this business at the very beginning of their journey. In Bashkiria, I’m probably the only one like that. And there are not so many masters in Russia; you can count them all.

- Did you have to send orders to other cities?

I constantly send to Karelia, Krasnodar region, Irkutsk, Leningrad, Omsk, Samara, Sverdlovsk regions, and almost throughout Russia. IN new year holidays I sent the belt to Kamchatka. Now I have prepared a parcel, a large order, to Ukraine - to Zhmerinka, which is approximately near Odessa.

The order even came from Israel. Of course, I was very surprised. I write: “You have everything there.” And the client replies: “We have everything, but no one makes such products!”

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I make Sheridan style embossed belts from genuine leather Vegetable tanned, 4.5mm thick. There are many different embossing templates, but to the uninitiated they all look the same. If you want to choose a specific template, this is possible, I will send you a photo of the drawings I have. But, as a rule, customers choose according to the size of the picture - larger or smaller.

It is also possible to choose the color of the future belt. I cover the belt on both sides with a protective acrylic compound, which prevents exposure to moisture. But don’t think that the belt becomes water-repellent. Prolonged contact with water, especially sea water, can have negative effects.

I make the belt so long that after fastening the tip sticks out no more than 10 centimeters. This is enough)) But if you are used to wrapping yourself with a belt a couple of times, you can arrange something like this))

To make a belt, I require the following data from the customer:

It is possible to produce two versions of belts:

• double-layer stitched. This is a belt made from two strips of 2.5mm vegetable tanned leather. I hand-stitch with 1mm thick braided waxed thread. I sew with a saddle stitch. This seam is much stronger than a machine seam.
• single layer. This is a belt made from one strip of vegetable tanned leather with a thickness of 4.5mm.

Double-layer belt - 13,000 rubles

Single-layer belt - 10,000 rubles

To place an order, write by email [email protected]

For work, I take a 100% advance payment. Send money to a Sberbank card. I send the products by Russian Post in a first class box.