Knitting with beads is a very exciting creative process. The technique of crocheting with beads is very simple; with a little practice, you can easily crochet a phone case, cosmetic bag, wallet or small handbag. This article presents a master class on crocheting with beads in the round in two ways.
You need to purchase beads, about 50 grams will be needed to knit a phone case, cotton thread, you can use “Iris” from the Kirov factory.
The first option does not require complex calculations when putting beads on a thread, but you can only knit spiral patterns, which are created due to the skew of the loops when knitting in the round.
First, knit the bottom for the case; to do this, cast on a chain of air loops along the width of the phone and tie it with single crochets, making additions on the sides, knitting 3 tbsp from one loop. b/n. Fasten the thread and count how many loops are in the circle.
Now calculate the pattern - a spiral. In my example, there are 36 columns in a circle, the number is a multiple of 4, I string 3 dark beads, 1 light bead, and repeat this many times. You don't have to string all the beads at once because... knitting will be awkward. You can always cut the thread, secure the end, put on a new batch of beads and knit further.
Having put the beads on the thread, attach it to the bottom. Move the bead towards the hook.
Insert the hook into the loop, grab the working thread behind the bead, pull out the loop, grab the working thread again and knit a st. b/n., the bead is located on the outside of the knitting.
Move the new bead to the hook again and repeat the above steps. So continue knitting st. b/n in a circle, in a spiral, without lifting air loops, until the beads on the thread run out or the case reaches the required height. If the edge of the knitting curls a little, like mine, then the thread is too thin for this bead, you can knit in two threads or knit the last two or three rows with a double thread.
Tie the last row with a “crawfish step”.
The second knitting method is as simple in knitting technique as the first, more difficult if you are planning to knit a pattern. To do this, you need to accurately calculate the beads when stringing them on a thread according to the pattern, following from top to bottom, and if you string the beads from left to right, you will get a mirror image of the pattern, keep this in mind when knitting letters - string the beads from right to left for the correct reflection.
As in the first method, tie the bottom, calculate the loops and string the beads according to the pattern. For convenience, you can break the pattern into several parts (for example, I took the pattern from a pattern for knitting mittens).
Attach the thread with beads to the bottom. For the first stitch, *insert the hook into the stitch of the bottom row, grab the working thread and pull out a loop, then move the bead to the hook.
Grab the working thread behind the bead and knit st. b/n.
Repeat from * st. b/n in a circle. In this knitting method, there is minimal movement of the pattern.
We called this creation “collar”
It is done like this:
First, knit the cover to the desired height, finish knitting on the SIDE, then knit a row WITHOUT BEADS.
Next, pay attention: the loop remains on the hook, TURN THE KNITTING so that the beads are knitted inward. And knit 6-7-8 rows in a circle (a little more, if you like) in the opposite direction, as you knitted the cover. The result will be 7 rows with beads inside the case. You knit the last row with beads and tighten the last loop ON THE SIDE of the cover (don’t finish it in the middle, otherwise the row will look incomplete, but on the side! That is, where you start, you end there). TURN these 7 rows OUTSIDE onto the front of the cover (like a regular sock) and you get a collar at the neck. You can stitch it in several places so that it doesn’t turn back inside out. But the girls didn’t stitch it, they say it’s holding up just fine. I didn’t try it myself because it was unnecessary, such bad luck has never happened to me.
If this option is useful to someone, I will be only glad. Knit for your health!
Samples and diagrams
Whole knitted, knitted from the bottom in the usual “grandmother’s” way - in the round with the transition from row to row. There are 50 beads in a circle. Beads - Czech 8/0, "Ariadne" threads, hook 1.5. 
This is a drawing from the case:
And this is a diagram of how I knitted the bottom (very clumsy, I’m just learning to draw in Paint, but I hope it’s clear and maybe it will be useful to someone) The set goes like a regular strand - according to the pattern and background beads to the end of the row. In my case, it is 19+31, a total of 50 beads in a row (in a circle). If you do not plan to knit the bottom, then it makes no difference how to collect beads - from above or from below, and if with a bottom, then only from the top. And you need to take into account that when knitting in the round without moving from row to row (as in cords), the pattern will look more stretched than when knitting with a transition from row to row.
Mobile phone case made of Czech beads "Roses".
Knitted in the English method in the round, without lifting, there are 54 loops in a circle, in my opinion about 70 rows in height. Charming black, red and gold mobile phone case. A win-win color combination! The photographs show two sides of the case, the roses are connected as a mirror image of each other both in color and in location. The case was not easy - sometimes the pattern would slide off, sometimes we had to reduce the rapport and pattern as the work progressed, otherwise it turned out more like an eyeglass case than a case for a mobile phone! But I am very pleased with the result!!!
And this is the pattern I used to knit
pictures of cases from here
The case is knitted on threads 100LL - without tearing, hook 0.85, in two half-loops using the English method. There are 70 beads in a circle, 63 in height, beads - Czech 10 and Japanese 11 - only 7 shades (also for good luck) The case has a lining( also knitted on 100LL threads), the edge is finished with satin bias tape, as well as two loops made of finishing tape for attaching a flagellum.
The pattern was taken from the Internet for cross stitch. Flagellum for 5 beads according to the Misya pattern, for which a special thank you to her, 75 cm long.
After you have studied the MK data, be sure to knit your first sample in several rows (at least 3-4). This way you will feel the technique and see how the beads fit, and also decide on the method that is right for you, taking into account the chosen pattern.
2. We knit samples to determine the choice of threads and beads. Here I advise you not to be lazy, so that you don’t end up disappointed when the product is already knitted.
Based on the completed sample and the individual dimensions of your phone, you make your calculations - how many loops you need to cast on and how many rows in height your case will be.
3. Now you have everything you need to decide on the drawings for your future masterpiece. Let me remind you that knitting is done in a circle, in a spiral (without lifting loops). When choosing patterns, look carefully so that when moving from row to row, your pattern fits together, that is, the number of loops/rows in the pattern corresponds to your calculated data. If you need to change something, you can correct the pattern yourself at your discretion. You can draw it very simply on a checkered piece of paper, you can do it in Excel, in a program for creating embroidery patterns, etc. (here, who knows what).
Well, now that you have already prepared the pattern, string the beads and start knitting. I wish everyone good luck, patience, easy loops and high-speed hooks
I've already started the case. I'll show you my first shawls and the beginning of the process.
The very first sample I made was made with Lily yarn from YarnArt (I unraveled it, it was too small to show it off). In my opinion, this yarn is not suitable; it is too thick for such purposes.
On it I determined whether such yarn was suitable for me, as well as what to choose for work - beads or cutting (because I have quite a lot of both in my mink).
After this sample, I made a choice for myself in favor of beads, and knitted another sample. This time we used MAXI threads and 4 types of beads.
My conclusions: Both iris and maxi are great for these purposes, and beads No. 10 fit perfectly on these threads.
So, I made a choice: I will knit from iris, crochet No. 1, and I will use 4 colors of beads.
Based on the completed samples, I decided on the required number of loops and approached the issue of choosing a pattern.
As an extremely lazy creature, I decided that I was unbearably lazy to spend so much time first drawing the chosen pattern, and then drawing it again, changing it to suit my sizes. So I took the path of least resistance and drew my own pattern.
To begin with, I decided not to complicate my life and not to do anything extremely difficult. So this is what I will have in my work:
And in accordance with the chosen pattern, I strung beads according to this pattern and began knitting. Here are my first 9 rows
I want to immediately give some advice so that you do not repeat my mistakes that I have already made.
1. When stringing beads according to a pattern, always do so while reading the pattern one way - for example, from right to left, or from left to right. Otherwise, somewhere in the middle of the cover you will have an unpleasant surprise when your pattern moves away in an unpredictable way.
2. Consider the following: if when stringing a pattern you read it from right to left, then you will knit it in the reverse order from left to right.
3. Another important point - determine how many rows you will immediately string beads (for example, I chose the first 10) and start stringing from top to bottom. That is, first, according to the scheme, the 10th row, then the 9th, 8th, etc. until the 1st.
In my opinion, it’s simply unrealistic to pick up all the rows at once, and there’s no point in doing so - you simply won’t be able to pull a thread that long all the time downwards. Therefore, start with rows of 10-20.
Well, that's all, I don't have anything new yet. I went to continue stringing beads. Have a good start everyone
Don't forget to show your processes. And one more thing - if something doesn’t work out for you, please write in detail what you are doing and what exactly is not working. And attach a photo of your result. Then it will be easier for us together to suggest what exactly needs to be corrected.
26-01-2014
I want to show you the result of the first day of working on the case. This is what I have now (knitted 24 rows)
First, knit the bottom for the case; to do this, cast on a chain of air loops along the width of the phone and tie it with single crochets, making additions on the sides, knitting 3 tbsp from one loop. b/n. Fasten the thread and count how many loops are in the circle.
Now calculate the pattern - a spiral. In my example, there are 36 columns in a circle, the number is a multiple of 4, I string 3 dark beads, 1 light bead, and repeat this many times. You don't have to string all the beads at once because... knitting will be awkward. You can always cut the thread, secure the end, put on a new batch of beads and knit further.
Having put the beads on the thread, attach it to the bottom. Move the bead towards the hook.
Insert the hook into the loop, grab the working thread behind the bead, pull out the loop, grab the working thread again and knit a st. b/n., the bead is located on the outside of the knitting.
Move the new bead to the hook again and repeat the above steps. So continue knitting st. b/n in a circle, in a spiral, without lifting air loops, until the beads on the thread run out or the case reaches the required height. If the edge of the knitting curls a little, like mine, then the thread is too thin for this bead, you can knit in two threads or knit the last two or three rows with a double thread.
Tie the last row with a “crawfish step”.
The second knitting method is as simple in knitting technique as the first, more difficult if you are planning to knit a pattern. To do this, you need to accurately calculate the beads when stringing them on a thread according to the pattern, following from top to bottom, and if you string the beads from left to right, you will get a mirror image of the pattern, keep this in mind when knitting letters - string the beads from right to left for the correct reflection.
As in the first method, tie the bottom, calculate the loops and string the beads according to the pattern. For convenience, you can break the pattern into several parts (for example, I took the pattern from a pattern for knitting mittens).
Attach the thread with beads to the bottom. For the first stitch, *insert the hook into the stitch of the bottom row, grab the working thread and pull out a loop, then move the bead to the hook.
Grab the working thread behind the bead and knit st. b/n.
Repeat from * st. b/n in a circle. In this knitting method, there is minimal movement of the pattern.
We called this creation “collar”
It is done like this:
First, knit the cover to the desired height, finish knitting on the SIDE, then knit a row WITHOUT BEADS.
Next, pay attention: the loop remains on the hook, TURN THE KNITTING so that the beads are knitted inward. And knit 6-7-8 rows in a circle (a little more, if you like) in the opposite direction, as you knitted the cover. The result will be 7 rows with beads inside the case. You knit the last row with beads and tighten the last loop ON THE SIDE of the cover (don’t finish it in the middle, otherwise the row will look incomplete, but on the side! That is, where you start, you end there). TURN these 7 rows OUTSIDE onto the front of the cover (like a regular sock) and you get a collar at the neck. You can stitch it in several places so that it doesn’t turn back inside out. But the girls didn’t stitch it, they say it’s holding up just fine. I didn’t try it myself because it was unnecessary, such bad luck has never happened to me.
If this option is useful to someone, I will be only glad. Knit for your health!
Samples and diagrams
Whole knitted, knitted from the bottom in the usual “grandmother’s” way - in the round with the transition from row to row. There are 50 beads in a circle. Beads - Czech 8/0, "Ariadne" threads, hook 1.5.
This is a drawing from the case:
And this is a diagram of how I knitted the bottom (very clumsy, I’m just learning to draw in Paint, but I hope it’s clear and maybe it will be useful to someone) The set goes like a regular strand - according to the pattern and background beads to the end of the row. In my case, it is 19+31, a total of 50 beads in a row (in a circle). If you do not plan to knit the bottom, then it makes no difference how to collect beads - from above or from below, and if with a bottom, then only from the top. And you need to take into account that when knitting in the round without moving from row to row (as in cords), the pattern will look more stretched than when knitting with a transition from row to row.
Mobile phone case made of Czech beads "Roses".
Knitted in the English method in the round, without lifting, there are 54 loops in a circle, in my opinion about 70 rows in height. Charming black, red and gold mobile phone case. A win-win color combination! The photographs show two sides of the case, the roses are connected as a mirror image of each other both in color and in location. The case was not easy - sometimes the pattern would slide off, sometimes we had to reduce the rapport and pattern as the work progressed, otherwise it turned out more like an eyeglass case than a case for a mobile phone! But I am very pleased with the result!!!
And this is the pattern I used to knit
pictures of cases from here
The case is knitted on threads 100LL - without tearing, hook 0.85, in two half-loops using the English method. There are 70 beads in a circle, 63 in height, beads - Czech 10 and Japanese 11 - only 7 shades (also for good luck) The case has a lining( also knitted on 100LL threads), the edge is finished with satin bias tape, as well as two loops made of finishing tape for attaching a flagellum.
The pattern was taken from the Internet for cross stitch. Flagellum for 5 beads according to the Misya pattern, for which a special thank you to her, 75 cm long.
After you have studied the MK data, be sure to knit your first sample in several rows (at least 3-4). This way you will feel the technique and see how the beads fit, and also decide on the method that is right for you, taking into account the chosen pattern.
2. We knit samples to determine the choice of threads and beads. Here I advise you not to be lazy, so that you don’t end up disappointed when the product is already knitted.
Based on the completed sample and the individual dimensions of your phone, you make your calculations - how many loops you need to cast on and how many rows in height your case will be.
3. Now you have everything you need to decide on the drawings for your future masterpiece. Let me remind you that knitting is done in a circle, in a spiral (without lifting loops). When choosing patterns, look carefully so that when moving from row to row, your pattern fits together, that is, the number of loops/rows in the pattern corresponds to your calculated data. If you need to change something, you can correct the pattern yourself at your discretion. You can draw it very simply on a checkered piece of paper, you can do it in Excel, in a program for creating embroidery patterns, etc. (here, who knows what).
Well, now that you have already prepared the pattern, string the beads and start knitting. I wish everyone good luck, patience, easy loops and high-speed hooks
I've already started the case. I'll show you my first shawls and the beginning of the process.
The very first sample I made was made with Lily yarn from YarnArt (I unraveled it, it was too small to show it off). In my opinion, this yarn is not suitable; it is too thick for such purposes.
On it I determined whether such yarn was suitable for me, as well as what to choose for work - beads or cutting (because I have quite a lot of both in my mink).
After this sample, I made a choice for myself in favor of beads, and knitted another sample. This time we used MAXI threads and 4 types of beads.
My conclusions: Both iris and maxi are great for these purposes, and beads No. 10 fit perfectly on these threads.
So, I made a choice: I will knit from iris, crochet No. 1, and I will use 4 colors of beads.
Based on the completed samples, I decided on the required number of loops and approached the issue of choosing a pattern.
As an extremely lazy creature, I decided that I was unbearably lazy to spend so much time first drawing the chosen pattern, and then drawing it again, changing it to suit my sizes. So I took the path of least resistance and drew my own pattern.
To begin with, I decided not to complicate my life and not to do anything extremely difficult. So this is what I will have in my work:
And in accordance with the chosen pattern, I strung beads according to this pattern and began knitting. Here are my first 9 rows
I want to immediately give some advice so that you do not repeat my mistakes that I have already made.
1. When stringing beads according to a pattern, always do so while reading the pattern one way - for example, from right to left, or from left to right. Otherwise, somewhere in the middle of the cover you will have an unpleasant surprise when your pattern moves away in an unpredictable way.
2. Consider the following: if when stringing a pattern you read it from right to left, then you will knit it in the reverse order from left to right.
3. Another important point - determine how many rows you will immediately string beads (for example, I chose the first 10) and start stringing from top to bottom. That is, first, according to the scheme, the 10th row, then the 9th, 8th, etc. until the 1st.
In my opinion, it’s simply unrealistic to pick up all the rows at once, and there’s no point in doing so - you simply won’t be able to pull a thread that long all the time downwards. Therefore, start with rows of 10-20.
Well, that's all, I don't have anything new yet. I went to continue stringing beads. Have a good start everyone
Don't forget to show your processes. And one more thing - if something doesn’t work out for you, please write in detail what you are doing and what exactly is not working. And attach a photo of your result. Then it will be easier for us together to suggest what exactly needs to be corrected.
26-01-2014
I want to show you the result of the first day of working on the case. This is what I have now (knitted 24 rows)
I am glad to present to your attention such a long-awaited master class on knitting with beads in the Russian way without shifting the pattern.
To work you will need:
- Beads of the required colors (I used Czech).
- Knitting threads - I have Iris from YarnArt (20 grams, 138 meters).
- Crochet hook - my hook thickness is 0.85.
I was faced with the task of describing in as much detail as possible the entire process of creating a case, so in this master class I will talk about how:
Tie the bottom of the cover;
Decorate the top edge of the cover;
Knit in the Russian way without a lifting loop without shifting the pattern;
Secure the ends of the thread at the beginning and end of the work.
I will not delve into the theory of knitting with beads and talk about the differences between Russian and English methods, as well as about increases, otherwise the master class will turn out to be completely vast. I will provide all the formulas and calculations at the end of the master class.
Well, let's begin! I'll tell you a little about threads and hooks. It is very important to choose the ideal thread/hook combination for yourself. This is all selected by trial and error; it is with the ideal thread/hook ratio in combination with the density of your knitting that you can count on an ideal result with absolutely even rows/columns. I tried to knit with different crochets on denim threads and on canarias, but there was still a slight shift, although much less than with the usual Russian method. The ideal combination for me was iris threads from Yarnart and a 0.85 hook.
The bottom of the cover, securing the tip of the thread
We start knitting the cover from the bottom. We carry out increments according to the scheme.
The bottom connected according to this scheme should fit almost any modern phone model; only the length of the first base row will be a variable (more on this in the “Calculations” section). The bottom pattern can be adjusted to your needs; to do this, you need to change the number of rows and increases, achieving the desired shape of the bottom of the cover.
First, we knit a chain from the required number (in my case 19) of air loops with beads.
The result is a chain on which the sections of the braid are clearly visible. We will knit the front part of the cover using the slices on one side (highlighted in blue), and the back part using the slices on the other side (highlighted in red).
To move to the second row, you need to make an air lifting loop. It is knitted only once. To do this, pull out the loop as shown in photo No. 3.
Now you need to knit the first column of the second row behind the top piece of the first braid. For now we are knitting in the usual Russian way.
And according to the pattern we knit the second stitch in the same loop.
At this stage, I advise you to mark the first loop of the second row with a “marker”. Such a “marker” can be an ordinary paper clip or a safety pin. This will help you see where the second row begins and ends. To mark the first loop, you need to hook the “marker” to the top lobe of the first column of the second row (in photo No. 6 it is highlighted in blue, the second column of the second row is highlighted in red).
And, according to the diagram, we knit three columns with beads into the last loop (under the top slice).
After this, we unfold the knitting in our hands (the last loop, into which we just knitted 3 stitches, should be on the right). And we continue to knit the second row according to the pattern, but on the other side of the first base row.
Here I’ll digress a little from the bottom and talk about how to secure the remaining tip of the thread at the beginning of knitting. When we unroll the knitting, the remaining tip of the thread should be on the right. I just tie it into the second row. To do this, I direct the tip of the thread along the loops of the first basic row, insert the hook under the segment of the first loop on this side, at the same time the hook should be under the remaining tip of the thread (in photo No. 9 the segment of the first loop is highlighted in red, the end of the thread is in blue) and pull out the loop .
Then I knit two loops on the hook. Please note that the tip of the thread should pass as if inside the column (in photo No. 10 the end of the thread is indicated in blue). In the same way, I continue to knit the end of the thread into the second row. If the tip was long, then you can continue to knit it into the third row. When you decide that the thread is already sufficiently secured, you need to pull its tip a little and cut it with scissors close to the posts, but be extremely careful not to cut the threads of the posts.
And let's go back to the bottom. According to the diagram, we knit two stitches in the first loop and three stitches in the last, between them one stitch with beads is knitted in each loop.
After finishing the second row, the beginning of the bottom from the inside looks like this (in photo No. 12 you can see my “marker” - this is a large paper clip). And this is what the bottom looks like from the outside. I would like to note that I recommend matching the threads to the color of the main beads, then the whole case will look neater. And I’ll make a reservation that, especially for the master class, I didn’t knit with yellow threads and tried to knit looser so that the loops would be better visible, so the threads are a little visible.
Now we continue to knit the bottom in a spiral - without any air loops or connecting posts, we knit the third row according to the pattern (there should be 6 increases - three from each edge). If your case should have an odd number of beads in its circumference, then you need to make one decrease in this row (I do it in the center of the back side of the case).
Starting from this row, we no longer knit under the braids, but using the method that I will describe below. After the third row, the bottom is already fully formed, it looks like this (further I no longer mark the first column of the row with a “marker”):
Russian method without pattern displacement
Let's move on to perhaps the most interesting part of the master class. Now I will reveal the secret of knitting in the Russian way without shifting the pattern. In fact, the whole secret lies on the surface - if you knit braids under the slices, then each column is located between two columns of the previous row. And I suggest knitting a column directly into the leg of the column of the previous row, then the beads line up clearly one above the other. It sounds a little confusing, but now I will describe everything in detail.
As I already said, I start knitting the leg from the third row, but for clearer photos, a certain number of rows have already been knitted. Consider the last connected row in photo No. 16. We see that each column consists of a braid on top (highlighted in red) and a leg in the form of a check mark (highlighted in blue). It is in the center of each such tick that we will knit the columns, but even here there are some nuances, which I will explain in the following photographs.
We insert the hook into the center of the tick - no problems should arise here (photo No. 17).
From the outside of the knitting, you can see that the stitch consists of several threads, and it is very important to insert the hook under the correct threads. In photo No. 18, please note that with the correct position of the hook, the vertical thread highlighted in blue is located further from the hook in the direction of knitting (in the photo this thread is to the right of the hook because the case is turned with the beaded side towards the camera, in life this thread will always be to the left of the hook ).
From above, the correct position of the hook looks like this: the hook is located under two sections of the braid (highlighted in red) and under one thread of the leg of the column of the previous row (highlighted in blue) - photo No. 19.
If the vertical thread on the outside of the cover is located closer to the hook in the knitting direction, then this hook placement is NOT correct (when knitting with this hook placement, there will be a strong shift in the pattern) - photo No. 20. The process of knitting a stitch is the same - insert a hook, move a bead, pull out the first loop, knit two loops on the hook.
At first, you will probably turn the bead knitting towards you before each column to make sure that the hook is inserted correctly, but I want to assure you that after a couple of rows you will knit with this method absolutely without straining, just as easily as when knitting under sections of braids.
As a matter of fact, this was the whole secret - to knit not under the sections of the braid, but into the very leg of the column of the previous row.
I did not knit many rows, since this is not a cover, but just a sample. Especially for this master class, I drew a diagram with a geometric pattern, which best shows that there is no displacement of the pattern, and the knitting is quite dense. When knitting using this method, you get a very nice inner side of the cover (photo No. 23).
Cover edge design
I finish my cases with a “crawfish step.” For those who are good at regular crochet, this method of tying should be familiar. But I know that many harness makers know how to crochet exclusively within the limits of plait knitting, so I photographed this part of the work.
The main point when tying with a “crawfish step” is that we knit from left to right.
I advise you to finish knitting with beads on one of the sides of the cover, then the transition from the beaded part to the knitted part will be least noticeable in the finished product.
So, we finished knitting rows with beads. Then we turn the work as shown in photo No. 24 (the working thread is to the right of the loop).
Insert the hook under both sections of the first braid (direction away from you), grab the working thread and pull out the loop.
There should be two loops on the hook. Now we again grab the working thread with the hook and knit both loops at once (photo No. 26).
In the same way we continue to tie the edge to the end of the row. We get a textured binding that harmonizes perfectly with the beaded fabric.
I close the binding row in the following way: I insert a hook under the pigtail of the very first column of this row (photo No. 30).
And I finish knitting with a connecting stitch - I grab the working thread with a hook and knit a single loop on the hook (photo No. 31).
I cut the thread from the ball, leaving a tip 15-20 cm long, hook the tip of the thread through the last loop, and tighten the thread.
The result is a small step that is not noticeable when the cover is in use.
Fastening the thread at the end of work
We thread the tip of the thread into the needle and pass the needle through the columns of the “crawfish step”. This way I go through the entire row.
At the end, slightly pull the tip of the thread with your finger and carefully cut it close to the posts. Thus, the thread is securely fastened and neatly hidden.
Calculations
In order to calculate the required size of the case (the number of beads in a circle and the number of rows vertically), I strongly recommend knitting a sample of beads, which will be the main one in the case. Be sure to knit it on the same threads and with the same crochet hook that you will use to knit the cover. I usually knit a sample with 40 beads in circumference and about 3 cm high, you don’t need to knit the bottom, knit it like a regular thick rope.
When the sample is knitted, we measure the knitting density. To do this, we calculate how many horizontal beads fit into 2 cm (I advise you to count at least 2 cm to reduce the error). In my sample, I got 9 beads per 2 centimeters (let’s denote 9 as “horizontal density”, 2 cm as “unit of length”).
Now we measure the knitting density vertically. In my case, 10 rows per unit length (this is our “vertical density”).
After that we measure the phone. First, we measure the circumference - for my phone it’s 15.8 cm (we’ll call this figure “phone circumference”).
Now we measure the height (I do not include the thickness of the phone in this figure). I got 13.8 cm (this will be the “height of the phone”).
Now let's move directly to the calculations. For convenience, I will present all the data together:
Horizontal density= 9 beads.
Vertical density= 10 rows.
Unit of length= 2 cm.
Phone circumference= 15.8 cm.
Phone height= 13.8 cm.
Using formulas, we calculate the necessary data.
We get that a case that fits my phone using this beads, threads and hook should have a circumference of 71 beads, and the height of the pattern should be 69 rows.
After we have determined the required number of beads in the circle, we need to calculate the length of the first base row, from which we will begin knitting the bottom of the cover. According to the bottom diagram, you can see that 6 beads are added in the second and third rows (we will denote them as “increases of the 2nd row” and “increment of the 3rd row”). The calculation formula will be slightly different for an even and odd number of beads in a circle, so we will introduce two new designations: “even circle” and “odd circle” (equal to an even/odd number of beads in a circle).
So, the data for calculating the length of the first row for my cover:
Odd circle= 71 beads.
Increases 2 rows= 6 beads.
Increases 3rd row= 6 beads.
Formula for calculation:
So for my phone in the first row I need to knit 30 beads.
I would also like to say that in my cases I make the bottom one-color, I knit it with beads of the main color, so there is a need to calculate how many beads of the main color you need to put on the thread in order to knit the entire bottom. It is very easy to calculate, you just need to add up the number of beads in each row of the case. For my phone (using the calculations above):
First row= 30 beads.
Second row= 30*2 + 6 = 66 beads.
Third row= (66 + 6) – 1 = 71 beads (I subtract 1, since I knit according to the bottom pattern for an odd number of beads, in which there is one decrease).
Number of beads for the bottom = 30 + 66 + 71 = 167 beads.
This concludes today's master class. Many thanks to everyone who read it to the end! I really hope that I was able to collect as much useful information as possible in one place and clarify for you all the stages of creating a knitted case with beads.
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Beaded phone case
One of the most popular ideas for creating a protective case for a mobile phone is weaving the latter from beads. Thanks to a reasonable selection of materials, as well as careful attention, such an accessory turns out to be very presentable in appearance and completely exclusive in terms of design.
Required materials:
- bead packaging,
- thread "Iris"
- crochet hook.
Work progress:
In fact, there are a huge variety of options for knitting beaded covers. And if you want to make any pattern, just find the desired weaving pattern and follow all the recommendations indicated in it. For example, they might look like this:
How to make a phone case with dried leaves
Another popular solution among women is to decorate a mobile case with beautiful stones, rhinestones and even dried leaves. Unlike beads, this does not require any special skills, and in some cases it can be done much faster.
Materials:
- plastic case,
- beads,
- colorless glue,
- cotton swab,
- acetone,
- scissors,
- flat wooden stick (you can take an ice cream stick),
- sealing epoxy resin,
- sheet of parchment paper.
Work progress:
- Clean the plastic case suitable for the selected mobile phone model from dirt and dry thoroughly.
- Lubricate the largest of all the leaves present with a small amount of glue and attach it to the place of the cover where it should be located. After this, repeat all the above steps with other leaves. Having completed the creation of the composition, add sparkles to the latter (if desired).
Helpful tip: When gluing certain parts of plants, it is worth remembering that light leaves when in contact with glue become even paler than before, and therefore the latter should be hidden under brighter petals.
- While the cover decoration is drying, dilute epoxy resin with water in a disposable cup (1:1 ratio) and carefully pour it onto the cover. The mixture must first be poured onto the center of the accessory, and then, using a flat stick, slowly spread it over the entire surface of the case.
Here it is important to ensure that no air bubbles form anywhere (they can be carefully blown off), and that the entire surface of the product is covered with a dense layer of sealing substance. However, it is important that there is not too much resin, since excess is very difficult to remove.
- Allow the case to dry for 2 hours. All this time, carefully monitor the progress of hardening of the resin, and if there is the slightest drip, immediately wipe it off with a cotton swab dipped in acetone.
If necessary, another layer of sealing solution can be applied to the product. If all the above steps are performed correctly, the end result should be something like this:
The best ideas for decorating mobile phone cases
If the two MKs described above did not seem enough to you or they did not impress you at all, we invite you to familiarize yourself with a few more ideas for decorating cases for mobile phones.
For example, the latter can simply be painted with felt-tip pens:
Or complement them with these bright pebbles:
Give them a romantic look with homemade flowers:
Perform decoupage:
Knit from any threads you like:
As you can see, you can decorate your mobile case in any way you like. The main thing is to decide what style it should have and choose a pattern or design option for the accessory in accordance with this.
A case made of beads, in particular, weaving for a phone is considered a popular and extraordinary decoration for fashionistas. In the world of new technologies, not a single person can imagine himself without a cell phone. Everyone is accustomed to the comfort and communication of the device. For most people, it is not only a means of exchanging information, but also an opportunity to emphasize their status and position. But no matter what it is, it needs a reliable cover that will protect against erasing and inadvertent activation of the keys. Women and girls need it with a colorful and attractive appearance. They look original and fashionable.
The subsequent master class will tell you in detail about the technique of weaving a colorful cover with beads. Even new craftswomen, after studying the training material, will be able to create their first knitted masterpiece. We will use a simple weaving technique so that beginners can repeat all the actions shown without any problems.
Working material
To weave, you need to prepare:
- beads of two colors, size No. 10
- yarn for knitting
- clear nail polish
- crochet hook
- scissors
Having prepared all the necessary working material, we continue to create further.
Weaving a phone case
Before you begin the creative process, you need to string the chosen color onto the prepared yarn. We do it this way:
- Take the tail of the working thread and coat it with colorless nail polish.
- Let it dry a little. At the same time, we sharpen the tip of the knitting yarn with our fingers.
- When the varnish is dry, string the beads in a chaotic order. It will be melange. Therefore, it does not matter how the material is scattered. Having strung the whole thing, we cut off the tip with scissors.
For convenience during work, we wrap the beaded ribbon on top of a skein of prepared yarn.
We knit one more row in a circle with single crochets. If you are knitting for the first time, I will explain how to knit a single crochet. Watch carefully and repeat my steps, you will not have any difficulties with this technique.
Single crochet
We thread the hook through the loop and pull the thread through.
Two loops have formed on the knitting tool.
Grab the thread and pull it through two loops.
This way. We weave the same loops in a circle.
We tied the bottom.
Knitting with beads
We begin to knit beads. We move one close to the crochet hook, as shown in the figure.
We hook the working thread.
Pull it through the bottom loop. There were two buttonholes on the working tool. The bead ended up behind the hook.
Having thrown the thread onto the working tool, we pull it through the two formed loops.
The beads end up on the opposite side of us. Next, we move the bead again and knit in a similar way in a circle. The entire knitting process is repeated. Thus, we knit until the end of the craft. During the work, we independently adjust the width of the product, focusing on the size of the mobile phone. It should be at hand at all times so that you can adjust your knitting.
The result is a product like this, the beads are inside. When knitting, the bead is always close to the tool.
This is the type of product obtained in the process.
Having turned the knitted product inside out, we try it on. We continue knitting using the same technology.
By devoting a little free time, perseverance and great desire, we get an exclusive item for our pet. All that remains is to decorate the finished product a little. How this will happen is up to you. The main thing is a great flight of imagination and you will receive an exclusive.
Having learned the main technical technique of weaving covers, adding a little imagination, you can create products with a variety of ornaments. Cases decorated with large beads and stones look beautiful.
You can simply create different spirals, turns and geometric patterns. Handicraftsmen often add a variety of accessories to the case. The craft is decorated at the discretion of the needlewoman.
