How to make a dragon's eye. How to make a dragon's eye Glasses from polymer clay

DIY polymer clay pendant. Master class with step-by-step photos

Master class: "Dragon's eye" made of plastic

As children, many of us were told tales about mystical creatures: whose roar could awaken the dead, whose eyes sparkled in the dark and whose teeth were sharper than any dagger... about Dragons. The mythological dragon symbolizes the test that must be passed in order to obtain treasure. Therefore, a person who wore something associated with a dragon had enormous strength, and especially protection from any illness. The Dragon also symbolizes power, wisdom and greatness. The earliest recorded myth about these creatures dates back to Sumerian culture and tells how the god Ninurta defeated the dragon-like monster Asag, took his eye and became the greatest ruler. We are against violence! Therefore, I propose to make a pendant in the form of a dragon's eye from polymer clay.

Potapova Marina Mikhailovna, teacher of applied arts.
Purpose: for teachers, teachers of additional education, for everyone who craves creativity, recommended activities at school and in creative centers for children from 10 years old.
Purpose: This Master Class is very simple to make, but looks very impressive. Work is more likely to attract boys' attention. After receiving the pendant, my nephew reads stories and legends and is interested in mythology in every possible way. This pendant is perfect as a gift or souvenir.
Target: Introduction to the manufacture of products from polymer clay, the mythical world, which is comprehended through one of such forms of knowledge as creative needlework and modeling.
Tasks:
- to foster a culture of behavior in the classroom, to cultivate neatness when working.
- develop children's imagination and creativity in the manufacturing process
pendant, to arouse educational interest before and after work.
-Introduce children to ancient legends and stories about dragons.
Safety precautions:
Safety precautions:
I took the plasticine in my hands,
Crushed, pressed, twisted, molded.
I smeared all over their hands,
Subdued to his will.
- It’s not for nothing that there is a phrase “I smeared all my hands with them.” Before starting work, be sure to wash your hands well, otherwise the clay will get dirty or simply stick to your hands.
- When working with the blade, be extremely careful, ask adults for help!
- When baking the finished product, carefully read the instructions on the package; clay from different companies has its own special qualities and baking temperature.

Let's get to work!

For work we will need:
* Mixed clay (light green and dark green)
*Black clay
*Piece of yellow polymer clay
*Blade
*Crayons (orange and green)
*Round Dotz
*Regular toothbrush
*Tassel
*Super glue
*Black and clear varnishes
*Unnecessary chain.


Step-by-step manufacturing process:

1. We sculpt a droplet from yellow polymer clay, like this:


2. Roll a ball from a mixture of green and yellow clay:


3. Roll black polymer clay like ordinary dough:


4. We place the yellow droplet on the black layer, give the green ball a triangular shape and also place it on the layer:


5. Now roll out a thin “sausage” from a mixture of light and dark green clay:


6. We lay the resulting “sausage” in two rows and cut off the ends:


7. Now we roll the sausage and give it the shape of the upper eyelid:


8. Attach it to the eye:


9. Now we cut out our eye, trim the black clay:


10. Roll small green balls.


11. Now, with the help of dots, we attach the balls to the eyelid and press them down to make pimples:


12. Use a toothbrush to give your eyelids an uneven texture:


13. Now use a blade to cut the orange crayon and paint the tip of the eye:



14. Now let's tear off one ring from the chain and stick it into the product. Afterwards we bake our eye. In my case, 30 minutes (it all depends on the clay you purchased)


15. Using black varnish we draw a comma:


16. Now we put a white dot on top of our comma and cover the eye with transparent varnish:


17. And now the last step, to make the eye look more believable, we fill the entire pupil with transparent super glue - this creates a lens effect.

Our pendant is ready!



This is the realistic eye we got. I did this master class at the request of the boys in our creative group, but believe me, the girls were just as pleased with it.
Today I had a dream -
- I'm in clear sky, I'm a dragon!
I won’t forget the happiness of flying
But it's time to wake up, work and live.
how is it hard for me to come back
It's so easy in the clear sky!
I want to wish everyone creative success and hope that you liked my pendant!

In the first part of the master class, we looked at making the heads, lips, noses and cheeks of plastic dolls. In the second part of the master class on sculpting dolls from polymer clay, we will tell you how to sculpt eyes, eyelids and brow ridges.

Master class on sculpting dolls from polymer clay: sculpting eyes, eyelids and brow ridges

As you know, eyes are the mirror of the soul, and not only human, but also dolls. Eyes make the doll's face more alive and expressive, giving the doll character. The more natural the eyes look, the more natural the entire polymer clay doll looks. Eyes can make even a not very well sculpted plasticine doll attractive. At the same time, ugly and unnatural eyes can ruin an otherwise perfect doll face. If you want your polymer clay doll to look as natural as possible, pay special attention to sculpting the eyes. So, let's start sculpting the eyes and eyelids.

Eyes and eyelids

Before you start sculpting the eyes and eyelids, select a place on the polymer clay doll’s face where they will be located. Using your little finger, make indentations for the eyes on both sides of the doll's face. If the recesses seem too wide to you, do not be discouraged - we will deal with them a little later.

Step 1. First, take a small piece of white clay and roll it into a ball with a diameter of about 8 mm. Carefully cut the ball into two equal halves. Take one half and place it on the tip of your index finger, with the flat side facing your finger. Using the fingers of your other hand, give the future eye of the polymer clay doll a slightly oval shape. Do the same with the other half of the ball. Place the blanks in the previously prepared recesses for the eyes on the doll's face.

Step 2. The doll's eyelids should be slightly darker than the face. To obtain the desired tone, take a piece of flesh-colored polymer clay and mix a little purple plastic into it. Then roll a ball with a diameter of 6 mm and stretch it into a tube about 13 mm long. Using your thumb, flatten the tube and pass the polymer clay through the press, setting the slot width corresponding to adjustment No. 5. The edges of the strip should be rounded on both sides. From the ends of the strip, measure a piece 1 cm long and cut them off - these are blanks for the eyelids of your polymer clay doll.

Step 3. Gently squeezing the rounded ends, give the blanks the shape of a convex eyelid. Apply eyelids to your eyes, starting from the edges closest to your nose. Try to ensure that the eyelids lie as evenly and symmetrically as possible on the eyes of your polymer clay doll.

Iris and pupils

Using the iris and pupils, you can color the eyes of a polymer clay doll in the desired color. In addition, you can specify the direction the doll is looking - up, down, right, left, straight ahead, or as you please. It all depends on the location of the irises and pupils on the eyeballs.

Step 2: Take two tiny pieces of black plastic and make the pupils out of them. The final touch remains - the highlights. To make them, take a drop of white plastic and stick it in the corners of the irises of the eyes.

Brow ridges

Eyebrow ridges make the face of a polymer clay doll more alive. Using the curves of the brow ridges, you can give the doll the desired facial expression and reflect the character and mood of the character.

Step 1. Take a piece of flesh-colored polymer clay and roll it into a ball with a diameter of 16 mm. Using your fingers, shape the ball into an isosceles triangle, with the base slightly larger than the sides. The resulting triangle is the future brow ridge of your polymer clay doll.

Step 2. Deform the sides of the triangle, giving them an arched shape. To do this, lightly pull the corners of the workpiece. The sides should bend inside the triangle, and the base, on the contrary, should bend outward. The central top of the blank will in the future be placed above the bridge of the nose of the polymer clay doll, and the concave sides will lie along the outer upper edge of the eyes.

Step 3. Try the blank on the face of the polymer clay doll and make sure that it has the desired size and shape. If the piece doesn't fit, adjust it and try it on again. When the workpiece is ready, make a small dent in its central part using your finger.

Step 4. Trim the base of the workpiece along the contour of the doll's face. Attach the blank to the face of your polymer clay doll so that the central corner of the part is at the bridge of the nose, and the side corners are at the corners of the eyes. Stick the brow ridges to the doll's face.

Making eyes for homemade toys.

Materials and tools.

- Polymer plastic. I used “Tsvetik”, which is quite suitable for these purposes. A pack of 6 colors will give you a lot of options for creating a variety of doll eyes. Plus it's not expensive. I bought this pack for 25 UAH.
- Surface for working and baking. These are Petri dishes for me. A very convenient thing for sculpting such products. But you can use a piece of glass or ceramic tile.
- Wet wipes for wiping hands and surfaces.
- Stationery knife for cutting plastic.
- Small spatula for forming plastic. I use a small pocket knife. But it could be anything. You can use scalpels, manicure accessories and, finally, children's plastic knives for plasticine.
- Film for leveling the surface. You can use any thin package.
- Eye shadows, glitter for coloring.

All photos are large in size for a better view of the details.


So let's get started.

I decided to make the eyes larger so that they could be seen better.
We start with white. We remember that everything on our hands, surfaces and even in the air sticks to white clay. Therefore, if we don’t want to get a “hairy” product, we wipe everything we can with wet wipes. And we begin to work. Cut and knead a piece of white clay.


Now we form a thick short sausage and cut it exactly in half. Roll up 2 identical ball with a diameter of about a centimeter. These will be the whites of the eyes. Now cut a smaller piece from the block and roll it into a thin long sausage. Cut two identical small pieces from it and roll 2 small identical ball. These will be glares on the eyes. We do everything at once from white clay so as not to stain our hands with other colors.


We put the small balls aside, and place the large ones next to each other (this way you can better see the difference between them) on the glass and just start forming ovals with your fingers. About 2.5 by 1.5 cm. Then we take a knife and finish it completely. If there is excess, cut off. Our task is to achieve maximum identity and a given form. This stage can be replaced by cutting out a shape, for example, a lid or some other suitable object. Then the plastic is simply rolled out to the desired thickness and cut out. It's similar to making dumplings using a glass. But very often there are no suitable clippings. To check the eye, a ruler will not hurt. And also, if you are using glass as a surface, you can look at it all from the back and check the symmetry.


Now it's the turn of black. We do everything the same as with white plastic. Form 2 balls. We flatten them and now form circles. These will be the pupils. When finished, they are approximately 1 centimeter in diameter. And put both Petri dishes in the refrigerator to cool for about half an hour.


We take everything out of the refrigerator. The plastic froze and it became easy to move it where we needed it. So we separate it from the glass using a flexible blade of a stationery knife. We transfer the pupils to the whites, flatten, smooth, level. Now we take small balls of glare and place them where we need them and flatten them again with our fingers.


Oh, they're already looking at us! Now our task is to get rid of our fingerprints on the product. We do this using plastic film. Just put it on top and iron it. Everything is clear, I think.


Well, we can stop there. But I decided to experiment a little more. Added some highlights with eye shadow and glitter.


Now it's ready and ready to bake. Don't forget about safety precautions and ventilation. Turn on the oven at 130 degrees Celsius, as per the instructions. This is my very first oven heating level. And we put everything together with the Petri dish to bake for 20-30 minutes. If the eyes are smaller, then you can bake them less. Although, if the temperature is not exceeded, then you can hold it as long as you like. And it’s better to overbake than underbake. This is necessary for the reaction to complete. I prefer to remove them from the glass while still hot after baking. This should be done as if blowing air from one side. Since the plastic sticks strongly to the glass and the product can be broken while it is still hot. Then immediately run under cold water and wash the eyes with soap, washing off the remaining plasticizer.

Here they are ready. The back is absolutely smooth and white. Can be glued to a toy.

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Your Forget-Me-Not :)

Looking ahead, this is the doll I ended up with:

Tonner dolls - we make live false eyes and eyelashes. And now step by step.
Inspired by my love for BJD, I decided to give my tunneler Sidney insertable live eyes, like BJD’s, and glued-in eyelashes.
The experiment is not new - many have already done this. I'll just show you my photos.
Basically, this can be done by reaching the eye sockets through a hole in the neck, but I wanted freedom - to easily get to the right place and work calmly. Therefore, I cut off the top of the head with a stationery knife (the doll was made of wigs - but if it had been with hair stitching, I would still have done the same, taking advantage of the gaps in the stitching).


I didn’t even wash off the makeup - I cut out my eyes.
The thickness of the plastic in the eye socket turned out to be impressive; it had to be peeled off gradually from the inside out. The doll is now ready, but honestly, I want to make her eye sockets even thinner - the eyes look very deep.


I did it (it’s good that the Tonners can partially remove the make-up - I decided not to touch the eyebrows and lips)


I worked on the eyes, painted them, put them in...






It looks different with each wig.

And now a little more about how to make eyes.
Protein can be made from white polymer clay. Bake it, then glue the pre-drawn iris of the eye onto it (we also make the pupil itself from baked plastic and glue it to the center of the iris):


Drop a drop of epoxy resin onto the iris (carefully, so that you get a beautiful deep lens - so that it doesn’t spread like mine did here)

When the lens hardens, cover the entire lens with resin (or you can dip it in epoxy). It’s better to let it harden on legs like these (mine are made of plasticine). Otherwise, if you put it on paper or oilcloth, everything can float and stick to the surface.


That's it! We insert it into the doll and admire it!
The beauty of torment is that you can do whatever you want - with sparkles, with stars, with butterflies in the eyes... whatever your imagination allows.