1. Correctly cut your product. It is imperative to position the part taking into account the direction of the grain thread (on fabric, the grain thread is located parallel to the edge of the fabric, i.e. place the part along the grain thread), otherwise, when stuffing your product, a skew will occur, and this is unacceptable.
2. Sew your product. You can sew the product on a machine using step 1-2, or by hand using a “Back needle” stitch. Be sure to leave an opening for turning inside out. It must be left in the most inconspicuous place, if it is the head, then in the place where the hair is attached; if hands, then from the elbows; if this is the torso, then at the place where the legs are attached. And not in clearly visible places, it spoils the whole look, and you have to hide it all with something.
3. Turn your product inside out. Before turning your product inside out, it is necessary to make an incision in all places where there are bulges, such as a nose, fingers, etc., 2 mm short of the seam, so that later when stuffing there are no wrinkles in these places. When everything is done, you can start turning it out. Some people use a special everter, but I use tweezers, sometimes I use a sushi stick or a pencil. To turn out narrow arms and legs, I use a stick and a wide tube. To do this, I insert a tube into the inside of the sewn handle or leg, and with reverse side I begin to insert the stick into the tube, after which I drag the fabric from the tube onto the stick and the product is turned inside out.
4. Stuffing of the product. The product must be stuffed tightly enough so that there are no wrinkles anywhere. The ends of the legs and arms are stuffed tighter to the elbow or knee than the rest. You need to stuff your limbs in small pieces, otherwise you get the effect of cellulite. The head and neck should be packed just as tightly. There is usually a problem with the neck; if it is stuffed incorrectly, it is all in creases, it looks very unsightly. If suddenly you can’t stuff your neck well, you can use a trick. For the neck, you can use toothpicks tied together and wrapped with padding polyester or holofiber equal in diameter to the doll’s neck, you can use spools of thread, they fit perfectly. As for tilde snails, the problem arises with the house. The denser the house is packed and the smaller the gap between the curls, the better. Again, I repeat, there should be no creases or wrinkles. After everything is stuffed using the “Blind stitch”, sew up all the holes; the smaller the stitch, the less noticeable it will be.
5. Stitching the product. We also sewed everything with a hidden seam.
6. Hair. For hair you can use threads and wool. I press almost all hairstyles with a felting needle, regardless of whether it is wool or thread. It turns out very neat and quite durable.
I would also like to pay a little attention to painting the attic dolls. Attic toy, this is a figurative name, as if it were very old, forgotten and found in the attic.
I use this recipe: 2 tsp. l. coffee + 2h. l. cocoa +1h. l. cinnamon + 2 tsp. l. PVA+100ml. boiling water I pour all the ingredients, except PVA, into a container and pour boiling water over it, mix well, and only then add PVA and mix thoroughly again. Before you start painting, you need to let the solution settle for 5-7 minutes. Now you can start painting, some paint with a brush, I use a dishwashing sponge. In order to avoid streaks, it is necessary to start painting the fabric itself with a barely damp sponge; if the filler gets wet, there will be streaks and drips. After painting, while the carcass is raw, I take vanillin and sprinkle it directly onto the carcass and rub it in. You can air dry the toy, or you can speed up the process and dry it in the oven. I dry it in the oven then the smell is most intense. I use the most low temperature. It is better to hang it to dry, avoid contact with other toys, otherwise stains will remain. If you dry it on a baking sheet, you need to place several sheets of office paper under the toy. 3-5 minutes are enough for drying, but it’s better to make sure it doesn’t burn. Well, that seems to be all. I apologize for the lack of photos, but it seems to me that it’s clear. I hope these tips will be useful to you. A small addition: the fabric for the tildes can be tinted yourself. For this you need 1.5 liters. water +1 tbsp. l. salt + 25-30 gr. coffee. Boil water and add coffee + salt. After thorough mixing, immerse it in white fabric and cook over low heat for 10-15 minutes. with constant stirring so that the fabric is evenly colored. Then rinse lightly in cold water, then wring out the fabric, straighten it and hang it to dry, avoiding creases and sagging of the fabric. Then, when the fabric is slightly dry, but still damp, iron it on both sides. Now the fabric is ready for use.
This does not mean that you need to do it only this way and not any other way, that there are no other methods and tricks when sewing a rag doll; each master has his own. I told you about mine. I wish everyone a creative mood and good luck.
Today I will tell you and show you how to sew an interior doll. I know that there are a lot of master classes on such dolls. But each master has his own techniques and his own tailoring features.
In this master class, I tried to explain in great detail how I do this. I think that this material is suitable even for beginners without experience. So let's get started. 
What we need:
Sewing machine.
Knitwear for the body, non-woven fabric, cotton, knitwear for clothing.
Boots for a doll, a hat for a doll, hair tresses.
White and beige threads, needles.
Filling: padding polyester and padding polyester. You can only use padding polyester if you can’t find padding polyester.
Large (long) needle for sewing arms and legs.
The glue is transparent.
Invisible needles or safety pins.
Scissors.
So, the first and most important thing is the pattern.
Here she is.
To sew the body you will need knitwear. You can buy knitwear that has almost no stretch. Most often it is found under the name “White Angel”. For my work I use the simplest knitwear from a fabric store. To prevent it from stretching too much, I glue it with non-woven fabric. I glue the fabric from the inside out, except for the place where the head will be. I fold and pin facing each other, outline the pattern, stitch, cut and turn. The parts are not completely stitched together. There are still places for turning and a place where the ball for the head is inserted. The next picture shows that where there are gaps, we do not sew the fabric.
This is what ends up happening.
Very important point! We cut out the body parts using zigzag scissors. If you don’t have these, then cut them out using regular ones and be sure to make small notches in the folds, for example on the neck. We just take this cut edge and carefully, not reaching the seam a couple of millimeters, trim it.
After we have stitched all the details, we need to finalize the legs. We take the leg, fold it in the area of the foot, as in the photo (seam to seam) and draw a rounded line.
Sew along this line. Cut it out. This is what we should get.
We turn the parts inside out using a wooden stick.
Let's get to the head. We will need a foam ball 8 mm in diameter. We cut out a circle from padding polyester, such that it completely covers the ball when wrapped.
We wrap the ball and insert it into the head through the space that is not sewn up at the top.
My dolls with a nose. If you don’t want to make a nose for your doll, then you can skip the next step. For the spout we will need a safety pin with a bead at the end, a piece of padding polyester, thread and glue. So, let's take a pin. Apply glue to the tip of the plastic bead. Wrap it with a strip of padding polyester. Then we fold this roll on the bead in half. We tie a thread around the base of this ball. This is what it looks like:
The necessary strip of padding polyester.
A roll wrapped around a bobby pin.
We folded this roll in half and wrapped it with thread at the base.
We mark on the face with an invisible pencil where our nose will be.
Carefully move the fabric aside and at the place where the needle enters the ball, insert our nose and remove the invisible one.
Sew up the head.
Now the most crucial and difficult moment is the neck. For the neck you will need a wooden stick. I use Chinese chopsticks. I cut them and sharpen the end. You can use wooden skewers, but they are more brittle. I had a situation where such a skewer broke when I inserted it into the ball. You will also need a strip of padding polyester and glue.
Cut a strip of padding polyester in width, equal to the length sticks to a point, and the length is such that when rolled into a roll it will cover the neck approximately.
Lubricate the stick with glue and, starting from the end, roll the padding polyester into a roll around the stick - like a carpet. This is what you should get.
Carefully insert this roller into the body through the lower unsewn hole and prick our ball onto the tip of the stick. I’ll say right away that for a beginner it may be difficult to do right away beautiful neck. With experience it gets better and better.
We stuff the body with synthetic fluff. Carefully, in small pieces. Help yourself with a wooden stick. If you don’t have padding polyester, then you can use padding polyester, tearing and fluffing it into small pieces.
First we stuff the neck with a stick. We try to level everything so that there are no bumps.
After the neck is smooth and neat, you can stuff the body without a stick, using your hands. A very important point! The padding should be very dense and tight. This is necessary so that our doll can stand later. This applies to the torso, arms, and legs. Take your time, use small pieces. Large pieces give the so-called cellulite - an uneven surface of the doll.
Sew up the bottom.
We stuff our arms and legs using the same principle. There is no way to do this without a stick. Advice: first put boots on your feet, and then stuff them. This can again be done using a stick. We insert it into the leg and put it into the shoe. And then we stuff it. This will help the foot not to deform during padding and take the shape of the shoe. Sew up the holes in the arms and legs.
Let's start with clothes. We cut out pantaloons. Take the fabric. Place them facing each other. We draw our pattern on the fabric. Hem the top and bottom. And then we sew the upper side seams. Like this:
We unfold and sew the bottom seams so that we get panties.
Turn it inside out and put it on the legs through the top. Like this.
Next, for work we will need strong threads, a long needle, buttons, a thimble and pliers.
We insert the torso between the legs. We fix it with safety pins, or better, if available, with long needles. And we sew it by button fastening the legs to the body. It's like this:
That is, you insert a needle into one leg and stitch it through the torso to the other leg. At the same time, you sew through the buttons on each side.
We put on our pants. We gather them at the back and sew them to the body. If they turn out to be too wide for the leg, then they can be gathered with a thread and sewn to the legs.
We sew a dress. It will consist of a separate top, skirt and sleeves. Sew the top part. To do this, we need to measure the circumference of the torso at the waist and the height of this upper part. In the following photos you can see that my girth is 21 cm and the height is 7.5 cm. For the allowance we add 0.5 cm in width and 2 cm in height.
So, we need to cut out a rectangle 21.5x9.5 cm.
And hem it on a machine on both sides along the width. Like this.
Then we make darts on both sides. To do this, we apply our cut to the body, wrap it and mark the fold of the fabric for ourselves. You can first draw a line and sweep it by hand. We sew one side. We don’t sew it all the way, since we have the length at the bottom that we need. And it doesn't need to be reduced.
We apply it again to the body and in the same way mark the excess on the second side, which needs to be removed into the dart. We stitch it. We apply it to the body, secure it with pins and carefully sew the two halves together at the back. This is what the top looks like:
Front view:
We sew a skirt. Everything is simple here. From the waist, measure the length of the skirt you need. Please note that if the skirt is full, it will look shorter. Cut out a rectangle equal in width to the length of your skirt + 2 cm for allowances, and as long as you want. The more, the more magnificent. For this doll, I made the length 45 cm. If one piece of fabric is missing, then you can sew two. So, we cut it out, hemmed the edges, and then sewed it into one circle. They gathered it along the length with thread and tightened it at the waist. Then they sewed it directly to the body. Like this:
This is my petticoat. Skirt top. I made it with folds. The technology is the same. Sewn on by hand.
Down you can wear a tulle skirt for fullness. To hide the seam, you can glue or sew braid or lace onto the belt. You can decorate the dress in some other way. Take action and be imaginative :)
I make the jacket from knitwear, but you can use cotton or denim. In this example, I used jersey and cotton for the lining. We cut the fabric facing each other. Let's draw a pattern. We don’t sew all the way through. We turn it inside out through the hole and sew it up by hand.
We attach our jacket to the doll and secure it with pins. We sew it in the center. Decorate with a button or something else. You don’t have to sew it, then it won’t be fastened on the doll.
On a small rectangular piece of knitwear we sew the bottom. We chop off the face and draw the sleeves. I place my pens on the fabric and mark where I want the sleeve to go.
We sew it, turn it inside out and put it on our hands.
We sew the arms in the same way as the legs, using button fastening.
The last stage is the hair. Hair can be made from artificial tresses or from natural sheep curls. You can also use yarn or wool for felting. Today I will tell you how to make hair from tresses.
What we need are tresses, transparent glue, or a needle and thread, safety pins, and a comb.
There are two options. The first one is to glue the tresses with glue, the second one is to sew them with threads. For beginners, I recommend the second option. It's easier. I'll show you how to glue the tresses.
Around your head with a simple pencil draw a line. Squeeze out a small layer of glue along this line.
Apply the base of the tresses to this layer and secure with pins. The pins are only needed for a few seconds for the glue to set. When I glue the second row, I already pull out the pins from the first.
Next, squeeze out another layer of glue next to it in the same way and glue another row. There is no need to cut your hair. This is done in a spiral.
Do the same for the third row, etc. Until the tress runs out. It turns out like this.
You can sew tresses to your head in the same way using threads in a spiral. It will take a little longer, but your hands will be clean from glue :)
We draw the eyes with acrylic paint and blush the cheeks with regular blush.
Each master has his own techniques, patterns and peculiarities of sewing an interior doll. In this master class we will try to explain in great detail how this is usually done. The material is suitable even for beginners without experience. So let's get started.
MK interior doll from A to Z
What we need:
Sewing machine.
Knitwear for the body, non-woven fabric, cotton, knitwear for clothing.
Boots for a doll, a hat for a doll, hair tresses.
White and beige threads, needles.
Filling: padding polyester and padding polyester. You can only use padding polyester if you can’t find padding polyester.
Large (long) needle for sewing arms and legs.
The glue is transparent.
Invisible needles or safety pins.
Scissors.
So, the first and most important thing is the pattern. Print on A4 and cut out.
To sew the body you will need knitwear. You can purchase special doll knitwear that has almost no stretch. Most often it is found under the name “White Angel”. You can get simple knitwear from a fabric store. To prevent it from stretching too much, glue it with non-woven fabric. We glue the fabric from the inside out, except for the place where the head will be. We fold and pin facing each other, outline the pattern, and stitch. The parts are not completely stitched together. There are still places for turning and a place where the ball for the head is inserted.
We cut out the body parts using zigzag scissors. If you don’t have these, then cut them out using regular ones and be sure to make small notches in the folds, for example on the neck. We just take this cut edge and carefully, not reaching the seam a couple of millimeters, trim it.
After we have stitched all the details, we need to finalize the legs. We take the leg, fold it in the area of the foot, seam to seam and draw a rounded line.
Sew along this line. Cut it out. This is what we should get.
We turn the parts inside out using a wooden stick.
Let's get to the head. We will need a foam ball 8 cm in diameter. We cut out a circle from padding polyester, such that it completely covers the ball when wrapped.
We wrap the ball and insert it into the head through the space that is not sewn up at the top.
If you don’t want to make a nose for your doll, then you can skip the next step. For the spout we will need a safety pin with a bead at the end, a piece of padding polyester, thread and glue. So, let's take a pin. Apply glue to the tip of the plastic bead. Wrap it with a strip of padding polyester. Then we fold this roll on the bead in half. We tie a thread around the base of this ball.
The necessary strip of padding polyester.
A roll wrapped around a bobby pin.
We folded this roll in half and wrapped it with thread at the base.
We mark on the face with an invisible pencil where our nose will be.
Carefully move the fabric aside and at the place where the needle enters the ball, insert our nose and remove the invisible one.
Sew up the head.
Now the most crucial and difficult moment is the neck. For the neck you will need a wooden stick. We cut Chinese chopsticks and sharpen the end. You can use wooden skewers, but they are more brittle. You will also need a strip of padding polyester and glue.
We cut out a strip of padding polyester in a width equal to the length of the stick to the point, and the length is such that when rolled into a roll it will cover the neck approximately. Lubricate the stick with glue and, starting from the end, roll the padding polyester into a roll around the stick - like a carpet.
Carefully insert this roller into the body through the lower unsewn hole and prick the ball in the head onto the tip of the stick. For a beginner, it can be difficult to get a beautiful neck right away. With experience it gets better and better.
We stuff the body with synthetic fluff. Carefully, in small pieces. Help yourself with a wooden stick. If you don’t have padding polyester, then you can use padding polyester, tearing and fluffing it into small pieces. Stuff tightly.
First we stuff the neck with a stick. We try to level everything so that there are no bumps.
After the neck is smooth and neat, you can stuff the body without a stick, using your hands. A very important point! The padding should be very dense and tight. This is necessary so that our doll can stand later. This applies to the torso, arms, and legs. Take your time, use small pieces. Large pieces give the so-called cellulite - an uneven surface of the doll.
Sew up the bottom.
We stuff our arms and legs using the same principle. There is no way to do this without a stick. Advice: first put boots on your feet, and then stuff them. This can again be done using a stick. We insert it into the leg and put it into the shoe. And then we stuff it. This will help the foot not to deform during padding and take the shape of the shoe. Sew up the holes in the arms and legs.
Let's start with clothes. We cut out pantaloons. Take the fabric. Place them facing each other. We draw our pattern on the fabric. Hem the top and bottom. And then we sew the upper side seams.
We unfold and sew the bottom seams so that we get panties.
Turn it inside out and put it on the legs through the top.
We insert the torso between the legs. We fix it with safety pins, or better, if available, with long needles. And we sew it by button fastening the legs to the body.
That is, you insert a needle into one leg and stitch it through the torso to the other leg. At the same time, you sew through the buttons on each side.
We put on our pants. We gather them at the back and sew them to the body. If they turn out to be too wide for the leg, then they can be gathered with a thread and sewn to the legs.
We sew a dress. It will consist of a separate top, skirt and sleeves. Sew the top part. To do this, we need to measure the circumference of the torso at the waist and the height of this upper part.
The girth is 21 cm and the height is 7.5 cm. For the allowance we add 0.5 cm in width and 2 cm in height.
So, we need to cut out a rectangle 21.5x9.5 cm. And hem it on a typewriter on both sides along the width.
Then we make grooves on both sides. To do this, we apply our cut to the body, wrap it and mark the fold of the fabric for ourselves. You can first draw a line and sweep it by hand. We sew one side. We don’t sew it all the way, since we have the length at the bottom that we need. And it doesn't need to be reduced.
We apply it again to the body and in the same way mark the excess on the second side, which needs to be removed into the dart. We stitch it. We apply it to the body, secure it with pins and carefully sew the two halves together at the back. This is what the top looks like:
We sew a skirt. Everything is simple here. From the waist, measure the length of the skirt you need. Please note that if the skirt is full, it will look shorter. Cut out a rectangle equal in width to the length of your skirt + 2 cm for allowances, and as long as you want. The more, the more magnificent. For this doll, I made the length 45 cm. If one piece of fabric is missing, then you can sew two. So, we cut it out, hemmed the edges, and then sewed it into one circle. They gathered it along the length with thread and tightened it at the waist. Then they sewed it directly to the body.
This is a petticoat. The skirt is pleated at the top. The technology is the same. Sewn on by hand.
Down you can wear a tulle skirt for fullness. To hide the seam, you can glue or sew braid or lace onto the belt.
The jacket is made of jersey, but you can use either cotton or denim. In this example, jersey and cotton are used as the lining fabric. We cut the fabric facing each other. Let's draw a pattern. We don’t sew all the way through. We turn it inside out through the hole and sew it up by hand.
We attach our jacket to the doll and secure it with pins. We sew it in the center. Decorate with a button or something else. You don’t have to sew it, then it won’t be fastened on the doll.
On a small rectangular piece of knitwear we sew the bottom. We chop off the face and draw the sleeves. Place the handles on the fabric and mark where the sleeve should go.
We sew it, turn it inside out and put it on our hands.
We sew the arms in the same way as the legs, using button fastening.
The last stage is the hair. Hair can be made from artificial tresses or from natural sheep curls. You can also use yarn or wool for felting. How to make hair from tresses?
We will need tresses, transparent glue, or a needle and thread, safety pins, and a comb.
There are two options. The first one is to glue the tresses with glue, the second one is to sew them with threads. For beginners, the second option is easier. It's easier. Here's how to glue the tresses.
Draw a line around the head with a simple pencil. Squeeze out a small layer of glue along this line.
Apply the base of the tresses to this layer and secure with pins. The pins are only needed for a few seconds for the glue to set. When we glue the second row, we already take out the pins from the first.
In the same way, the third row, etc. Until the tress runs out.
You can sew tresses to your head in the same way using threads in a spiral. It will take a little longer, but your hands will be clean from glue :) Or buy a wig, it fits on your head and is easily sewn along the edge.
We draw the eyes with acrylic paint and blush the cheeks with regular blush or pastel.
We put on a hat, decorate it to your taste (a bear, or a handbag, or anything else), and voila! The doll is ready :)
Today I want to talk about how to make a doll with your own hands. I’ll tell you about soft fabric dolls - even a child can handle making such a toy, and the result looks simply charming.
What kind are there? textile dolls? Fabric dolls have existed for quite a long time; at first they were of a ritual nature, then they became amulets, and finally moved into the category of interior decorations and children's toys.
You can divide the dolls by manufacturing style:
- sewn dolls;
- reels.
You can also divide pupae according to body shape:
- sessile;
- standing;
- recumbent (they have a soft body, it is difficult to sit them down).
And of course the pupae can be divided according to appearance— I’ll talk about this further so as not to write one thing at a time.
Various options
How to make a rag doll with your own hands? There are a variety of DIY rag dolls, but in general you need to stock up on:
- fabric for making the body, face and limbs of the doll - it can be fabric, yarn, nylon and even paper (some make the doll’s head from papier-mâché and the body from fabric);
- stuffing material (cereals, foam rubber, cotton wool, fabric scraps, polystyrene foam in balls or holofiber);
- yarn or thread for making hairstyles;
- beads, special eyes;
- needles and threads;
- knitting supplies (you will need doll clothes, and they are very easy to knit);
- cardboard, artificial and Genuine Leather, various elements for making accessories for dolls.
Tilde and varieties
Tilda is the most famous soft doll, and most often it is the one made by beginners. These dolls were invented by a girl from Norway, Tone Finnanger. These are long, simple dolls, they have simple faces - pink cheeks, beady eyes. A whole industry has developed around this doll, making animals and accessories. There are many books and master classes published on how to sew a doll with your own hands. Look how beautiful Tildas are, and how you can make bunnies and bears in this style.
By the way, if you need a doll pattern in this style, then nothing could be easier - here are a few patterns that are suitable for creating from fabric.
Some people think that only little girls are interested in dolls, but in reality this is not the case. At all times there was a tradition when mothers sewed toys for their children. Big legs will undoubtedly appeal to young fashionistas. Older girls can start working with their mother. This will be a very interesting experience of working together, which can unite mother and daughter for a long time.
Material
Any Bigfoot doll begins with a project. At this stage, you need to decide on the materials for making the toy. Special knitwear is now on sale for sewing dolls. It is pre-painted and all you have to do is choose the shade you like. There are 2 types of this kind of fabric. Thinner - intended for sewing the head. It has a small margin of elasticity, sufficient to avoid unnecessary folds. Type 2 - a little denser, more suitable for the body and limbs.
For the doll's body, you can use fleece fabric - this is a very soft, fleecy artificial knitwear. The toy is soft and pleasant to the touch.
For an eco-friendly doll, you can use linen. This is an excellent material, it absorbs moisture well and allows air to pass through. Be sure to keep in mind that after the first wash, linen shrinks. It is better to wash the canvas in advance, and only then cut out the doll on it.
Padding
The Tilda Big Leg doll is stuffed in several stages, each part separately, there are very thin, hard-to-reach places. It is very important to choose the right material so that the padding lies evenly. All materials can be divided into natural and artificial. Now is the period of craze for environmental friendliness, so many people stuff dolls with wool. The product turns out to be very soft; if you tear the fiber into small pieces, you can achieve uniformity.
Wool is wonderful, but it has its downsides. Monitor your child closely for several days; an allergy may occur to the wool. In this case, you will have to replace the filler with holofiber. Although this is a synthetic material, it is hypoallergenic. It is very convenient to stuff with it, because it already consists of small particles.
To make the doll more stable, many people prefer to fill the stacks with something heavy. This could be silica gel, cereal or small sea pebbles.
Patterns
There are several cutting options. In the first version, each part is cut out separately. Then the doll is gradually assembled into a single whole. It takes more work to sew the head to the body. If you do this job incorrectly, your head will wobble. You will have to practice a lot before you get a successful option.
The pattern of a Big Legs doll with a one-piece head is much easier to make. You don't have to worry about sewing it to your neck. This option will be especially useful for beginning needlewomen; it will help them gain self-confidence and not quit their job halfway through.
Stitching
We transfer the selected pattern first to paper, then to the fabric itself. When cutting, do not forget to add space for seams, about 1 cm. When all the parts are cut, you can start stitching. If you have a pattern for a Big Legs doll with a one-piece head, sew it together starting from the bottom edge. When the narrow part is sewn, you can stuff the head in advance, it will be easier and more convenient.
Handles are stuffed over the shoulder. We sew the leg, starting from the bottom, so that at the end all that remains is to sew on the foot. To stabilize the doll, you can put a piece of plastic or thick cardboard in the foot. Only then finish the work. To push the filler into narrow places - such as legs, arms, especially fingers, use Chinese sticks or thick wooden knitting needles.
To assemble all the parts into a single whole, special doll mounts are used. The arms and legs are movable. You can use simple buttons. We attach both legs at once, buttons on top and sew through the doll.
There is another way to sew a Bigfoot doll. We transfer the patterns onto fabric folded in half and immediately sew them onto sewing machine. Just be sure to leave room for stuffing. After stitching, all that remains is to cut out the finished parts.
How to stuff your head
To keep your head in good shape, you can use a foam ball as a base. If this is not the case, roll up a tight ball of old newspaper and cover it with papier-mâché. We wrap the workpiece tightly with filler. At this stage, padding polyester is best suited. Now we push this entire structure point-blank up to the throat.
To give the Bigfoot doll a nose, we take a stationery pin. We drip glue onto the tip and screw a small piece of padding polyester onto it. For strength, we wrap the base with thread. We insert the resulting blank into the inside of the doll. Only a small tubercle of the nose will be visible from above.
The last step remains. Use a sewing stitch along the top edge and tighten. To secure, we make a few more stitches. The head is ready. Now we roll up another thick roll of padding polyester; it needs to be inserted into the doll’s neck. It should fit as tightly as possible to the head ball. Now you can stuff the rest of the body.
Choosing hair
The Big Legs doll loves beautiful hairstyles. There are several options for making hair. The simplest one is regular yarn. The presence of a large number of colors and textures gives room to the imagination. The doll can be curly, shaggy, or with a classic ponytail.
Professionals often use artificial hair. Specialized stores have a huge selection of hair specifically for dolls. If you can't find them, use tresses or wigs for people. You can also find ready-made doll hairstyles on sale; all you have to do is glue them to your head.
For a small doll, you can use natural wool for felting. You get a very cute fluff on your head. Doll hair can be made from satin ribbons, dismissing them.
How to grow hair
How to attach Big Legs? The master class will introduce you in detail. First, let's look at hair made from threads. First of all, you need to decide what hairstyle the doll will have. If you plan to part in the middle, then we start with the parting. If the hair is pulled back or falls freely on the shoulders, start stitching from the forehead. We cut the strand into equal sections with a fold in the middle - this is the length of the hair. Sew along the thread in rows.
Synthetic hair is usually glued on. To do this you need a hot glue gun or regular clear super glue. Gluing the hair is done in converging circles towards the crown. Apply glue to your head in an even stripe, and apply hair in small strands. Don't forget to protect your hands with gloves. The glue is very difficult to wipe off.
Wool hair can also be glued, or it can be felted using a special needle. The wool will mix with the filler inside the head and the hair will hold firmly.
Face
Eyes are the mirror of the soul, what kind of soul will your doll have? The Big Leg doll, created with your own hands, most often has 2 simple black beads instead of eyes. It doesn't seem like anything special, but it looks very cute, especially if you lightly brown your cheeks.
Some craftswomen pay much more attention to the faces of their creations. Carefully drawn eyes look as if they are alive. Such a doll always has a special character. We draw eyes for the Big Legs doll, master class in the photo below. This shows you step by step how to draw eyes. The paints used are mostly acrylic; they can be bought at any craft store. Designer dolls have not only painted eyes, but also lips, cheeks, and sometimes freckles or moles. Before you start drawing, practice on paper.
Fabric for clothing
Clothes for the Big Legs doll are made from a wide variety of fabrics. The choice largely depends on what kind of item you are sewing. But there are still a number of certain principles:
- Can't be used too much large pattern. Any drawing should look natural and fit into the proportions of the doll.
- Avoid fabrics that are too thick. The jacket can be made from thin leatherette without lining. Felt or velor is suitable for a coat.
- You can dress the doll in knitted clothes, but the yarn should not be too thick.
Follow these principles, use the right color combinations, and your dolls will be second to none.
Cloth
It’s easy to sew clothes for a Big Legs doll; patterns are often included with the main one. These cute toys are real fashionistas. Their clothes are in many ways similar to human ones, only the cut is changed to suit their figure. If you know how to sew, proceed as usual. Take measurements from the small model and get to work.
Dresses, sundresses, trousers, trousers, coats, a doll can be dressed in anything. Don't forget to pay attention to the little details. Cute lace for the trim of a sundress is perfect. Scarves, stockings and other little things are also important. There is a huge variety of hats.
Delightful dolls are obtained in historical outfits, or beauties from the outback. Vintage style really suits big legs. They look amazing in lace dresses in pastel shades.
Finishing
The Big Legs doll loves to dress smartly. You can't do without additional accessories here. A distinctive feature of the doll is that she never walks barefoot. You can sew the simplest shoes yourself. She often wears baby shoes or boot-style booties. Beautiful shoes are sold in specialized stores for doll makers.
Depending on the project, the doll may need a hat or crown, or cute little headphones. A handbag slung over your shoulder will add additional charm. Ruffles and lace will help create a cute girly look. If the doll is intended for a small girl, try to avoid too small parts. Do not use beads or sequins, and beads are only suitable for the eyes.
Despite the same patterns, no two dolls are ever alike. Each craftswoman brings something of her own, and the doll acquires individuality.
The question of how to sew a Bigfoot doll has been resolved. This wonderful handmade toy will delight anyone who receives it as a gift. Many people, having made their first doll, can no longer stop, and doll making becomes their life’s work. The toy is soft, so little ladies can carry it with them even in their sleep. She will forever be best friend for your daughter.
