There are pockets on different models knitted products. But even if there is no pocket, you can knit it using our master classes.
To knit a pocket, you first need to decide where this pocket will be located. Even if the model has a pattern, you can knit a pocket without changing the pattern.
The simplest pocket is the patch pocket. But it is suitable for models with simple pattern or where the pattern will not change much. Tied up pocket the right size in the form of a square, rectangle or even a triangle, we sew it over the product in the selected place. If you knit a pocket in the shape of flowers, they can even decorate your clothes.
Slanted pocket knitted simultaneously with the front. The pocket entry strip is knitted last with an elastic band. To enter the pocket of the person.r. knit to the marked place. We divide the work and continue knitting from 2 balls. Both sides of the front can be knitted simultaneously. for r. (in this case there is no need to count rubles) or separately (the number of rubles should be the same).
Pockets with braids. If the model has a braid pattern, then the pocket can be knitted with the same pattern.
Pocket with horizontal entry. We knit it in the process of knitting the front. First we knit the pocket burlap. To do this, we cast on the required number of stitches and knit a piece of the required length with the main pattern (we knit the last row from the inside of the front).
Slant pockets. Such pockets are more difficult to knit, especially with zippers. For a pocket with a zipper with an inclined entrance, we knit the burlap separately and then sew it on.
Pocket with slanted cutout. For it you need to knit the front before you start cutting the pocket. Then we remove the stitch to the side bevel using an additional knitting needle or pin. We knit the remaining stitches together with the finishing strip for the pocket. To obtain an inclined pocket line in each face. we knit the last stitch of the front (knit.ch.) together. As a result, the places of decrease will be invisible on the knitted fabric. Next we knit inner part pocket To do this, from the additional ball we collect the required number of stitches, corresponding to the width of the pocket, it must correspond to the number of stitches that was reduced in the process of knitting the height of the pocket size, taking into account the width of the finishing strip. Then we transfer the previously postponed stitches from a pin to a knitting needle and connect them into a common r. from the inner part of the pocket, knitted from an additional ball. We knit the right side of the front to the height of the pocket cut. To prevent the inside of the pocket from turning inside out, we tie the finishing strip to the right side of the shelf. To do this, combine the strips and the right side of the shelf. We simultaneously knit 1 stitch and 1 stitch on the right side of the front side together. Thus, stitches on the left and right sides of the front are sewn onto 1 knitting needle to continue knitting. We sew the inside of the pocket from the wrong side with a hidden seam.
Welt pocket with horizontal entrance.
Kangaroo pocket“- master class. To knit a pocket of the desired size, count the density of the pattern loops.
In this master class, we cast on 34 stitches on stocking needles and divide the following stitches: 10, 14, 10. Next we knit 2 rows. main pattern. Then we knit the middle stitches by adding stitches in each row. to the required length.
To knit the inside of the pocket, you need to cast on these 14 stitches from the inside and knit all the stitches in a single pattern. Having knitted the required length of the pocket, we combine them into a single fabric.
Crochet patch pockets for kids can be crocheted into fun and beautiful appliques.
Master class
What additional things are needed to knit a very neat and even patch pocket))? Only a needle with a large eye for sewing on the sides. There are no calculations or accuracy of “getting” into the row - everything is ready in advance, all that remains is to knit the pocket itself and fix its sides on the main fabric.
I would like to offer you a simple and convenient method in which the “base” for future pockets will be done immediately during the knitting process.
Yes, initially for this you must decide what height and width the pockets will be, their number and location on the product. Having planned these parameters, we begin to knit as follows.
As an example, let’s take one of the most common options for the location of two pockets in a product knitted from bottom to top using stockinette stitch: 1-2 rows above the bottom elastic cuff. The width can be any depending on the style of the product. As a rule, they are located on each edge of the fastener bars or at a distance of approx. 7-10 cm from each side seam (or fold) in models with a one-piece front (without fastener).
Having calculated the desired width of the pockets, i.e. how many loops each of them will make, as well as how many loops are required to retreat from the edge of the bar or side seam, then we knit it like this.
1. After finishing knitting the elastic cuff in the next front row, we begin to knit the “base” for the side edges of each of the pockets - for this, in the front rows along the front side of the product, we knit the 1st purl loop from each edge of the future pocket. In the purl rows, the same loop is knitted “according to the pattern”, i.e. facial. These loops form a “strip” (“track”, “seam”), which “indicates” exactly the side side, to which the finished pocket will subsequently be sewn on the wrong side of the product.
We knit in this way until the desired pocket height.
Then knitting faces. and out. We stop the loops for the “base” of the pocket and then knit the details of the product until ready.
2. The next step is to knit the pocket itself: along the front side of the product we cast on loops from the fabric, picking up every second half-loop on the knitting needle in the segment between the “paths” of purl loops. Thus, the number of loops cast on will correspond to the number of loops of the main fabric at a distance from one purl stitch. to purl on the other side.
Attention! Leave a long tail of thread at the very beginning of the cast to sew on the side of the finished pocket!
3. Having cast on the loops, turn around on the wrong side. side of the pocket and knit it with the selected pattern (in the example - stockinette stitch) to the desired height = to the total height of the “track” from the purl. loops across faces. side of the product (or equivalently - “paths” of knitted stitches along the wrong side of the product).
The number of rows of the TOTAL height of the pocket should correspond to the number of rows of the “base”-“track”, taking into account the strip you have planned along the upper edge of the pocket (in the example - garter stitch).
Leave a long tail of thread when closing along the front side of the product, i.e. if the outermost loop of the last row of closure is on the opposite side from the previously existing tail of the thread, the beginning of the set of loops!!! This way you will already have a long thread ready on each side of the pocket to sew it on.
If you did not leave such tails, then use thread from a working skein for sewing.
4. You can fix the side edges of the finished pocket by basting with pins on each side - this will make it easier to sew)) This is at your discretion.
5. Sew the sides of the pocket along the front side of the product.
To do this, we thread the remaining tail of the thread into the needle (or a new thread), make the first fixing stitch in the outermost side loop of the pocket and the corresponding outermost broach of the purl loop of the “warp”-“track”
The next stitch is made under the next two edge stitches of the pocket. (in the photos below they are sewn together the same way different sides pocket)
again “stitch” under the edge loops of the pocket
and a “stitch” under the next two broaches of the “track”
In this way we knit until the last edge loop and the last stretch of the “track”, through which we knit two stitches for additional fixation
5. Unfold the knitting to the wrong side, slightly stretch the seam along its length so that the side of the pocket is not pulled together, and secure with a knot. We hide the ends of the threads.
This is what an almost invisible needle stitch looks like on the front side of the product.
IN finished form the pocket looks like this
On the wrong side
I hope you find this method of knitting a patch pocket useful - simple, neat and hassle-free!))
Knit with pleasure!
Knit the front as usual until vertical welt pocket lines. Then divide all the loops into two parts: the first - the loops of the shelf from the side to the pocket, the second - the loops of the shelf from the pocket cut to the side. Each part must be knitted separately or simultaneously, but from two balls. In this case, in the second part, from the side of the cut, you need to attach open loops of pre-knitted burlap.
In this case, the burlap is knitted in half (stocking stitch): the width should be equal to the depth of the pocket, and the length should be equal to the height of the cut.
After attaching the burlap, knit the fabric (both the front loops and the burlap) with the main pattern. Then, when the knitting height “catch up” with the cut height, close the burlap loops and continue knitting the front as usual.
When the piece is ready, hem the burlap from the inside out, and knit the finishing strip of the welt pocket from the side loops.
Just as when knitting a horizontal welt pocket, the placket can be made simultaneously with the shelf. In this case, when dividing the loops into two parts, dial on the first part air loops for the plank. But then the fastener bar must be knitted simultaneously with the shelf so that the pattern on all finishing strips goes in the same direction.
This is a pocket on the left front shelf. Pocket on right shelf The front is knitted in the same way, only in a mirror image. It should be remembered that one hundred burlap is always knitted on the wrong side of the work.
At the starting point of the pocket, leave the loops open in front of the slit, then continue knitting the loops after the slit, starting to knit the placket with pearl or other knitting. Once you reach the desired pocket height, leave the loops open.
Cast on the open loops on the knitting needle at the beginning of knitting the slot and new row loops for knitting the inside of the pocket, equal to the width of its strap; knit as many rows as necessary to form a vertical pocket opening.
At this point, bind off the additional stitches cast on and continue working, knitting the loops left open at the end of the slot. Having finished the work, prepare the pocket burlap from the lining and sew it to inside slot strips.
So the pocket is made in the same way as the previous one. The pocket placket is usually crocheted with ribbing, which provides an elastic edge, and sewn to one side of the opening.
At the starting point of the pocket slit, divide all the stitches and continue working only on those that are before the slit, and knit the desired height of the welt pocket. Leave these loops open and continue working on the loops located after the pocket opening.
Knit all the loops after the cut. When finished, pick up stitches along the edge of the slot with a crochet hook on the front side of the work to knit the finishing strip and transfer them to the knitting needle.
Knit 2.5 cm with 1x1 rib, finishing with 2-4 rows of hollow rib; close the loops with a loop-to-loop needle. Attach the ends of the strip to the front side of the work with a hidden seam. Finish by attaching the burlap to the pocket.
VERTICAL POCKET video
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/ 04/21/2016 at 02:07
Greetings, friends!
This article is addressed to those who want to diversify their knitting creativity, or create additional difficulties for themselves (just kidding).
You just knit it like this, you knit it, and then one day you wanted to do it on knitted product a pocket, and not a simple one, but a welt one, and with an oblique entrance to boot. And then you think, how to implement this idea?
I’ll tell you and show you in detail how I solved this problem. Maybe it will be useful to someone. I’ll give you an example of how you can work a welt pocket with knitting needles on a children’s jacket.
When knitting, a combination of several patterns was used, so the pocket turned out to be a little tricky. See for yourself.
It was, of course, possible to make a horizontal slot for the pocket, but it seemed to me that an oblique entrance would be more convenient, and an oblique would result in a larger slot width, and since the space for my pocket turned out to be quite narrow, I had to look for a way out of this situation. and the look was more or less neat, and the burlap on the inside turned out to be larger.
And now detailed master class using the example of the left shelf.
So, to begin with, I knitted 15 rows of elastic. Next, to make it more clear and understandable, I’ll tell you: the shelf consists of a combination of three patterns: a 2×2 checkerboard (16 loops), a pattern with braids (21 loops), a knit stitch with purl scars (I’ll call it that) – 14 loops. The entrance to the pocket should be placed on a strip of 16 loops of 2x2 checkerboard. But at first I knitted this part simply stockinette stitch.
According to my plan, the burlap should take up space on the wrong side of the work from the side seam to the braids inclusive. After the elastic band, I knit the purl row with purl loops.
In the next front row, I distribute the loops for the patterns and in the place where the burlap should be, I make yarn overs between the loops (alternating: loop on the pattern, yarn over, loop on the pattern, yarn over, etc.).
Having reached the yarn over between the loops, we remove it onto the thread.
When all the yarn overs have been retaken, we tie the thread and leave it like this:
And we knit the front up, as usual, until we reach the place where the bottom point of the pocket opening should be located.
- Note. At first, the loops in the place where the yarn overs were made seem slightly elongated, but do not worry, this will be removed after knitting the burlap pocket.
From this moment we begin to knit in short rows, without knitting 2 loops at the end of the purl rows. We knit in short rows with yarn overs so that there are no holes later. How to do this is described in great detail in this article. Yes, and if you want to get a steeper bevel, do not knit at the end of the row not 2, but 1 loop.
We knit short rows with yarn overs.
After knitting the final row on all stitches.
Having completed the shortened rows, we collect the loops intended for the pocket bevel line onto a thread. Leave the remaining loops on the knitting needle.
Now you need to take care of the burlap of the pocket and make sure that it organically flows into the continuation of the shelf. To do this, we remove the loops formed by the yarn overs at the beginning of the work from the thread onto the knitting needle. We attach a thread from another ball and knit yarn overs crossed loops.
We knit until we are equal in height to the main part of the shelf (that is, to the top point of the oblique cut).
Now let's do a simple calculation. For the side part of the shelf you need to leave 16 loops. Therefore, at the beginning of the row we close the loops, and leave 16 loops open.
We continue to knit on the knitting needles that were used to knit the main piece. Turn the knitting to the right side. For the “clutch point” we knit the last loop of the main part and the first loop of the remaining burlap loops together with a crossed loop in the rhythm of the pattern (in in this case I got a purl loop):
We knit together the last loop from the main part of the shelf and the first loop from the open loops of the burlap (in the photo - the first loop on the left on the right knitting needle).
And at this time we have an almost finished pocket on the wrong side of the work. All that remains is to carefully hem it with invisible stitches to the main part along the upper horizontal and vertical edges.
This is what the pocket looks like from the reverse side of the work.
At the end of working the bevel loop, we remove the pocket slits from the thread to the knitting needle (take thinner knitting needles than those with which the main fabric was knitted). In the first row you need to add loops so that the fabric is not pulled together. To do this, add yarn overs every 2 stitches.
In the next row we switch to a 2×2 rib, and we knit the yarn overs with crossed loops in the rhythm of the rib. We knit several rows and close the loops loosely. Carefully sew the side edge of the elastic to the main part.
On the right shelf we make a pocket symmetrically as described above. The shortened rows will now need to be performed without knitting the loops at the end of the front rows.
Note: I described using the example of shelves made with such patterns. You can, of course, knit with other patterns, and design the edge of the pocket entrance differently. The main thing here is to understand the technology and execution procedure. I’m sure you will succeed, and even better than me!
I wish you a pleasant crafting, good mood and all the best!
In the meantime, I say goodbye to you until new meetings (they will take place if you look at my blog again, and even better - if you subscribe to the newsletter in the form under the article).
I expose my pockets:
First, I usually decide where my pocket will be. It's very simple: I find the waist, step back
from the waist down 10-12cm + 3cm. This is the lowest point of the pocket.
From the side seam of the product (in this case, I have a left pocket) I take 8-15 loops, the larger the size, the more loops you need to remove on a pin. I knit the rest of the loops like this:
At the beginning of the row, two loops are together and at the end of the row, two loops are together, until I remove 27 loops. Finished it. I leave the stitches on the auxiliary needle and move on to the pin.
I transfer the loops from the pin to the knitting needle and knit as follows: make two loops from the last loop of the row and add one chain loop, as when casting on loops. I do this until 27 loops are formed, which I removed before. We connect the loops from the auxiliary needle and the ones we just cast on, we get this charming hole:
Now it needs to be processed. To begin with, we make a pocket leaf: cast on 27 loops along the bottom edge and knit as you please, or like me - knit with a lapel, or just with an elastic band without a lapel, the main thing is not to close the loops too tightly.
Now we need burlap pocket: cast on 27 stitches along the top edge and knit a long strip with stockinette stitch, taking into account that we will need to bend it in half. They tied it up. Closed. Now something has become clear, all that remains is to sew everything together... This is the top point of the pocket.
3 hours have passed, the pocket is ready, joy knows no bounds. We do the right one in exactly the same way, only with a tilt to the left.
Create for your health
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