Rococo hairstyle. Women's hairstyles of the 18th century

22.09.202427.05.2017

If they don't have bread, let them eat cakes.
Marie Antoinette, Queen of France.

- This is both a continuation and the opposite of Baroque. Rococo - style of the 18th century. The style, unlike Baroque, is designed for more modest spaces and small sizes. It is not for nothing that Rococo is also called an interior style. However, no less lush, elegant and bright.

Still from the film “Marie Antoinette”
Hairstyles and costume of the Rococo period.

Rococo is a gentle style: soft colors (pale pink, pale blue, light green), spring motifs in painting, as well as motifs of eternal youth and love for the nude genre. And Rococo is the style of the last years of the French monarchy, the pre-revolutionary style. The style of the times when people lacked food and essentials, and excessive luxury reigned in the palaces.

Hairstyles of the Rococo period partly continued the traditions of the Baroque period. These were wig hairstyles for men and updo hairstyles for women. However, during the Rococo period, this is one of the main features of women's hairstyles of that time, they would reach unimaginably high sizes.

The “ala fontange” hairstyle is still in fashion. Marie Antoinette loved this hairstyle. Another version of this hairstyle appears - “fontange commode” (“comfortable”).

Portrait of Madame Du Barry, by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun

In the 20s of the 18th century, small hairstyles were in fashion. For example, the “small powder” hairstyle is a hairstyle with slightly curled hair laid around the head and a smooth nape. Another name for this hairstyle is “Countess Kossel”. Based on the “small powdered” hairstyle, the “polonaise” hairstyle was created. Its authorship is attributed to the French queen of Polish origin, Maria Leszczynska. Mandatory elements of the “polonaise” hairstyle were jewelry – a feather and a brooch.

In the middle of the 18th century, they wore a “tapi” hairstyle - whipped, curled hair laid high above the forehead. Hairstyles with an egg-shaped silhouette were also in fashion.

Jean Baptiste Gautier Dagoti. Marie Antoinette.
Marie Antoinette's bejeweled hairstyle. Author kuafer (hairdresser) Leonard.

Portrait of Marie Antoinette, by the artist and her friend Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun, 1785.

And in the 60-70s of the 18th century, the fashion for high hairstyles came. Such hairstyles are made using artificial strands, as well as entire decorative elements - figures of people, animals, fruits. For example, the frigate hairstyle is with a boat on the head. Such hairstyles took a long time to create and were worn for months. Sprinkled with powder and various aromatic substances. And such hairstyles could well harbor various insects. One of the court ladies even had a mouse living on her head. My hair was itching. So that ladies could scratch their heads, they had special long sticks. And since with such huge hairstyles it was difficult to get into a carriage with a roof, the ladies traveled in carts. But soon the famous French hairdresser of that period, the personal hairdresser of Marie Antoinette, Leonard, came up with a mechanism with the help of which hairstyles could be folded.

Frigate hairstyle

Updo hairstyle cartoon

In addition to the “frigate” hairstyle, the “a la Madame du Barry” hairstyle, named after the favorite of King Louis XV of France, was also popular. The hairstyle consisted of curled and powdered hair, laid on a high frame.

Men's hairstyles were done using wigs. However, unlike the wigs of the 17th century, the wigs of the 18th century were much smaller in size.

Thus, a wig with fine curls “a la mouton” (“ram-like”) was widespread. They also wore a “ke” (“tail”) hairstyle - curled hair was combed back and tied at the back of the head with a black ribbon. Initially, this hairstyle was made from one’s own hair, but then it will be worn on wigs.

Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun. Portrait of Etienne Vigée (the artist's brother), 1773.

Another hairstyle “a la bourse” - the tail of the hair was tucked into a bag or case, which was made of black velvet and had a quadrangular shape, and was also decorated with bows, buckles and ruffles. In this case, strands of hair were left near the temples, which went down just below the ear. Such strands were called “dove wings.”

Maurice Quentin de Latour. Self-portrait.
Hairstyle "a la bourse".

In the 30s of the 18th century, the hairstyle “a la katogan” (“knot”) was very popular. The hairstyle was made from curled and powdered hair. At the temples, the hair was curled into curls or shell curls, and at the back of the head a long strand was left, which was gathered into a thick knot, somewhat reminiscent of a ponytail.

They also wore a hairstyle “a la budera” (“rat tail”). The hair above the forehead was whipped into a high bun, at the temples it was curled into curls, and at the back of the head it was tightly wrapped with leather straps and a moiré ribbon.

Joseph Duplessis. Portrait of Louis XVI, 1775.
A wig and “dove wings” (at the temples) on the hair.

There were also hairstyles with braids, which were tied with a bow. Such braids were not long and were called “pig tails.”

From the second half of the 18th century, England began to dictate the fashion for men's hairstyles more and more. Plus, interest in Antiquity is beginning to appear (excavations of Pompeii are underway), and, accordingly, in ancient hairstyles.

Maurice Quentin de Latour. Portrait of Rousseau, 1753.
Men's hairstyle. XVIII century.

Interesting fact: it was in the 18th century that the Academy of Hairdressing was opened in Paris. Hairdressers were then called coiffers. The most famous coiffeurs were Legros, the hairdresser of Louis XV, who was also the founder of the Academy, and Leonard, the hairdresser of Marie Antoinette.

Photos of modern hairstyles in the Rococo style

Pompous hairstyles, intricate wigs - the era of luxury has sunk into oblivion, but the basic elements are still used today. Voluminous hairstyles, decorated with a variety of decor, create a real princess look. Similar ideas can be implemented for special occasions; when creating a rococo hairstyle, you cannot do without the help of professionals. The combination with an original outfit will ensure the attention of everyone around you.

Style Description

Literally, the name of the direction means “rocky” and is associated with the origin of the main element - the decorative curl. The style is a continuation of the Baroque, its more pompous, sophisticated form. It is distinguished by its special splendor, detail, and delicate pastel colors. The origin of the movement dates back to the middle of the 18th century, when luxury reigned in the palaces, and the common people often went hungry.

Continues, but in a more refined, elegant form, with a distortion of natural lines. In painting, architecture, music, fashion there are small details, pretentiousness, and artificiality. Rococo has a truly feminine appearance, even male silhouettes approach the refined girlish forms. The ideal of beauty is considered to be a chubby, cutesy woman with a thin waist and fragile shoulders.

The Rococo era is associated with the appearance of delicate pastel shades, pale blue, light yellow, pink. The main message is eternal youth; ladies of all ages sought to look like nymphs, applying layers of powder and blush.

Often not distinguished as an independent direction, it is considered an offshoot of the Baroque. During the heyday of classicism, rococo was used in the disdainful context of all mannered, pretentious, false art. Game, fantasy, distortion of reality - characteristic features are reflected in all spheres of art and architecture. Curved, capricious curls, reminiscent of the image of a shell, are the main symbol.

New forms that replaced the pompous, heavy baroque are designed to serve as entertainment, to excite light, fleeting emotions. The founder of the style is considered to be the painter Antoine Watteau, who created vivid images that reflect the essence of the movement. In architecture, the main emphasis was on interior decoration, rather than on the lines of the facade. The walls were painted in monochrome, light shades, and story panels became decorations. Carved panels replaced frames, and small curved details gave it an elaborate look.

Rococo fashion is distinguished by its emphasis on tenderness and youth. Excessive application of powder turned faces into lifeless masks. Men become real narcissists, carefully monitor their appearance, and dress up like young ladies. Costumes are also created with an emphasis on elegance and grace, characteristic of female images. The men's wardrobe is replenished with new elements, an elongated justocor caftan appears. His silhouette duplicates his figure, and his floors stick out grotesquely in different directions. Under the caftan they wear a knee-length camisole, girded with hoops; the tails create a kind of skirt. Jabots and scarves appear in men's suits; outfits are decorated with lace, flounces, and ribbons. The pants reached the knee line and were combined with white knee socks.

In women's outfits, fluffy frame skirts and corsets are retained. In the early years of Rococo, skirts were quite modest in size. Gradually they expand to a grotesque maximum, taking on an oval rather than a round shape. For the first time, decorative flowers in combination with ribbons began to be used to decorate outfits. Particular importance is attached to underwear, thanks to open outfits it was exposed. Silk is used for tailoring, richly decorated with gold, silver, lace, and embroidery.

Attention! Accessories served not only as additions to the main outfit, but also made it possible to exchange secret signs with gentlemen. Gloves, a fan, a scarf and a face fly were tools in the hands of mannered lovers.

Characteristic features of hairstyles

Hairstyles continued the Baroque style and were performed on wigs for both men and women. At the beginning of the 18th century, neat models “Polonaise” and “Countess Kossel” were used, consisting of a smooth nape. Afterwards, the “Tapi” hairstyle gained popularity; the curls were curled in a soft wave, placed high in the crown area, forming an ovoid shape. Over the years, styling has become more and more complex, and frame options are taking over fashion.

For lush, voluminous hairstyles, not only wigs and extensions are used, but also human figures, compositions of fruits and flowers. A model called “Frigate” with a ship on its head is becoming popular. Such styles were created for a long time, were impractical, and were constantly itchy. Insects and even rodents infested the powdered locks. To make life a little easier for the ladies of the court, Marie Antoinette's personal hairdresser came up with a special folding design.

In men's hairstyles, a wig is retained, but in much smaller sizes than in Baroque. Models with fine curls a la ram, “Tail” with curls on the sides and a tail at the back of the head were popular. A complex hairstyle a la burse consisted of textured curls at the temples, reaching the earlobes; the main head was put away in a case at the back of the head, decorated with ribbons and buckles. Also considered popular styling were the “Rat Tail” and the knot; hair was also curled into tight curls and shell curls.

Relevance today

The basis of modern evening hairstyles is the Rococo style. Complex updo hairstyles with backcombing and curled curls are used to create the image of a bride or graduate. This option is also appropriate for social events, presentations, balls, and dinner parties. The model requires a lot of time to complete, careful detailing, and laying out each strand.

Who suits hairstyles:

young ladies with round, square, triangular, oblong faces, thanks to backcombing, flowing curls and volume, you can adjust the shape of the oval;
young fashionistas will use their hairstyles to emphasize the freshness and beauty of youth;
voluminous styling is recommended for ladies with curvaceous shapes; also, similar models will highlight an elegant, slender figure;
combined with evening and wedding dresses that involve open shoulders and décolleté.

The styles are distinguished by their pomp and volume; the hair is gathered at the top of the head, creating a high structure. Modern versions are distinguished by a simpler form; there is no detailing of small elements. The decor used is less grotesque; the decorations are distinguished by their thin, elegant form and lack of pomp. To perform this you will need a standard styling kit - hair dryer, curling iron, straightener, brushing comb, thin comb, foam, mousse, varnish, hairpins, bobby pins.

Instruction card step by step:

Prepare the curls - wash, dry with a hairdryer and a brush. It is recommended to straighten curly and frizzy hair with an iron. Comb the strands back, gather them into a high ponytail on the top of the head, and tie with an elastic band.
Divide the ponytail into 3 strands and secure with clips.
Comb one selected part thoroughly using a thin comb.
Hide the backcomb under the smooth strands, separating the curls from the 2 fixed parts.
Secure the remaining two parts of the tail with bobby pins.
Create a roll from the hair and secure it with hairpins.
Divide the second remaining strand into 2 parts.
Comb one part and varnish.
Carefully comb the top layer of hair until shiny, apply hairspray to the strands, and close the prepared roller.
Repeat for the second section of hair, completely covering the roller.
Form a bow from the remaining strand.

Modern haircuts and styling options for different hair lengths

On short curls, you can also create hairstyles that are close to a sophisticated style. The smooth, neat shape adds elegance to the image and erases age criteria. A bouffant in the crown area visually lengthens the oval; chubby young ladies can take advantage of this effect. The hairstyle focuses attention on the features; you should carefully consider the makeup and jewelry. , you can read on our website.

On medium lengths, classic oval-shaped hairstyles look great. With the help of stray strands, it is easy to add a modern touch to your hairstyle. The hairstyle should be chosen by slender young ladies with a chiseled silhouette and expressive facial features. Complex styling requires professional skills, as well as a whole arsenal of styling products.

Original options for high hairstyles will be an appropriate addition to the festive look. They will adorn young ladies with a regular and elongated oval, emphasizing a chiseled chin and proportional features. There are characteristic elements of the style - bouffant, complex design, elongated shape. Modern young ladies use similar hairstyles to create bright, memorable images.

Soft waves and beautiful textured curls are an excellent option for a holiday hairstyle. High hairstyles emphasize tenderness and youth and are often used for bridal looks. The neck line stands out beautifully, the lush crown harmonizes the oval. Performed on medium and below-shoulder curls; the lack of length can be compensated with the help of overhead strands. , find out on our website.

A current option that matches modern styles is. Performed on straight and curly hair, does not require perfectly smooth styling. Looks luxurious with and. It is used not only for special occasions, but is a practical option for everyday styling.

Pros and cons

Modern fashionistas can easily create a rococo style hairstyle thanks to a whole arsenal of styling products. Today, elaborate hairstyles will decorate a celebration or evening event. It is worth knowing about the implementation features, advantages and disadvantages of historical options.

Pros:

gives splendor and volume to the head;
suitable for young ladies of different appearance types;
emphasizes the neck line;
will decorate round, oblong, triangular ovals;
used for special occasions and special events;
Lush, complex hairstyles follow hairdressing trends.

Cons:

The hairstyle is not suitable for mature women, it emphasizes age-related changes;
difficult to do on your own, it is recommended to contact a specialist;
not used as an everyday hairstyle;
difficult to combine with modern stylistic trends;
Recommended for use by young ladies under 40 years old.

Stellar examples

Eva Longoria uses Rococo elements to create elegant evening hairstyles.

Rihanna looks luxurious with modern interpretations of high styles.

Paris Hilton prefers loose curls, but sophisticated hairstyles also suit the socialite.

Jennifer Lopez never ceases to amaze with feminine, delicate images.

Hayden Panettiere uses classic evening hairstyles, high hairstyles highlight chiseled facial features.

Charlize Theron creates elegant styling on short curls; the recognizable elongated rococo shape is appropriate for going out.

Useful videos

How to do a historical hairstyle from the 18th century.

18th century hair and makeup.

Introduction

The topic of this thesis: “Stylized hairstyle in the Rococo style.”

The goal of the thesis is to create stylized images that will reflect the relationship between the Rococo era and modern fashion trends in hairstyle, its shape, and colors.

The objectives of the work are:

Explore options for creating hairstyles in the Rococo era;

Explore changes in the technology of performing hairstyles from the Rococo era;

Selecting an image from a variety of options and styling it.

The subject of the study is the development of hairdressing in the Rococo era from antiquity to the present day.

The object of the study is hairstyle as an integral part of the image and style.

Rococo is a style that bears features of fragility, sophistication, some mannerism and sensuality. Graceful decorativeness, intimacy, exaggeration of curved smooth lines - this is what defines this style.

Complex stucco and carved patterns, scrolls, shells are introduced into the interior design; the decoration is distinguished by sophistication and lightness. Light silks, gilding, and porcelain are used to decorate the interior. The Rococo style was distinguished by its bizarre asymmetry and elegance of forms. Its heyday occurred during the reign of the French king Louis XV. This is the time when the aristocracy withdraws into its cozy little world, spending its life in countless celebrations, balls, masquerades, hunts, picnics and... love adventures.

The original costume ended with a lovely female head with a smooth hairstyle significantly reduced in size. But already in the second half of the 18th century, the hairstyle “grew” upward again, sometimes to a height of up to 70 centimeters.

Famous hairdressers, together with milliners, create still lifes of flowers, ribbons, decorative hairpins and feathers on the heads of their high-born clients; even whole ships with sails raised; windmills, bridges and much more, right down to garden architecture.

Men wore curls on the sides and wore a long braid at the back. A little later, white powdered wigs came into fashion, with curls curled on the sides, a pigtail and a bow at the back.

“Runway hairstyle of the Rococo era,” the most relevant not only in our time, but at all times. This is our past and this is our future, because life, culture, art and new directions do not stand still, they develop with us and with each era they make more and more new discoveries and revolutions.

The theme: “Stylized hairstyle of the Rococo era” is very relevant and could well be suitable for catwalk shows and competitions, as well as in theaters and cinema.

Chapter 1. Analysis of preparation for execution of developed images

1.1 Historical and modern vision of Rococo fashion

In the first half of the 18th century, the Rococo style appeared, which seemed to complete the development of the Baroque style. Rococo is a decorative style with features of fragility, sophistication, some mannerism and sensuality. These features were present in both men's and women's hairstyles.

Rococo flourished during the reign of the French king Louis XV (Fig. 1). This is the time when the aristocracy withdraws into its cozy little world, spending its life in countless celebrations, balls, masquerades, hunts, picnics and love affairs. The style of that era bore features of fragility and sophistication, mannerism and sensuality. The focus is on the inner world.

Women dominated the secular salons. The desire to please prevailed over everything and brought to life clothes that emphasized the sensual shape of the body. Everyone, absolutely everyone, wanted to be young (forever young!): to hide their age, their hair was covered with a layer of powder to hide gray hair, and their cheeks were heavily flushed.

Movements and gait were developed with teachers of “good manners”, even while sitting at the table, their feet were inserted into special pads, accustoming them to the “third position”. It is not for nothing that the 18th century was called the “gallant century”, the century of powder, lace, minuet, the century of the feminine man. Aristocratic costumes sparkled with gold and precious stones. Formal, office, salon and even home wear were equally magnificent. They even wore jewelry instead of buttons, and formal dresses, even the most expensive ones, were worn only once.

The voluminous forms of baroque clothing are a thing of the past; the dress seems to have acquired human dimensions again. Pomp and solemnity gave way to caprice and whim, asymmetry defeated harmony. The freely flowing Baroque dresses seemed to fall off and take on more defined shapes; the details of the costume became smaller and more refined. There were no noticeable changes in the cut of clothing.

Women's suit (Fig. 2) Grace and lightness distinguish the silhouette of the women's suit of that time: narrow shoulders, extremely thin waist, high raised chest, rounded hip line, etc. Dresses with iron hoops are again in fashion, skirts have become wider and have acquired a dome shape.

In the second half of the century, the skirt widens greatly to the sides, its round shape turns into an oval (stretched at the sides and flattened at the front and back). The sides of the skirt were so elongated that the gentleman could not walk next to the lady, but walked somewhat ahead, leading her by the hand. Sometimes small frames were simply strengthened around the waist - figs, elongated at the sides and flattened at the front and back. The waist is cinched with a corset, strongly raising the chest, slightly exposed by a shallow wide neckline. The neckline around the neck and chest is draped with a flirty scarf (often with fringe). Later it is raised up to the chin, skillfully creating the appearance of high breasts, fashionable at that time. This fashion was introduced by the wife of Louis X, Queen Marie Antoinette (Fig. 3), who had an impeccably beautiful small but high bust.

The sleeves, narrow at the elbows, like a neckline, are decorated with a cascade of flowing lace, ribbons and braids (gold, silver or tinsel (copper, tin) braid). Great importance is also attached to small additions to clothing. These included a fan, which was a necessary part of the ability to flirt, a pompadour handbag for countless cosmetic items, gloves and a muff.

Rice. 2. Women's dresses

Rice. 3. Queen Marie Antoinette

The shoes look especially flirtatious - small and elegant, like the whole suit in general, with a deep neckline and a large heel of an elaborately curved shape. The ceremonial costume was complemented by colored stockings with gold and silver embroidery, and in the second half of the century - white silk stockings with an openwork pattern or an embroidered arrow. Women's shoes at that time were made of colored leather, brocade, satin, and velvet. Brocade satin shoes were embroidered with colored silks, pearls, gold and silver threads, and stones (Fig. 4).

Rice. 4. Women's shoes

In Rococo style clothing, which greatly exposed the body, much attention was paid to women's underwear - an underskirt with a swinging blouse - negligee (from the French neglige - careless). Silk, richly decorated with gold and silver, embroidery and lace, it becomes a source of pride for ladies (Fig. 5).

Rice. 5. Lingerie and corsets

Hairstyles of the 18th century are very interesting for their splendor and variety. After all, as the history of hairdressing testifies (and especially in the era of the majestic, luxurious, sophisticated and pathetic Rococo, hair styling masters were called and equated to the status of outstanding and gifted artists), not a single chic hairstyle of a socialite, like an impressive sculpture or a masterpiece painting, had no analogues in any part of the world. That is, every talented and sought-after hairdresser already in the 18th century guaranteed the exclusivity of his creation.

In general, frankly speaking, it was the incomparable and delightful, fantastic and luxurious hairstyles of the 18th century both for influential men of that time and for court favorites that revolutionized the world of fashion, aesthetic outlook, artistic thinking in general and in hairdressing in particular. It is clear that, like any art with a certain share of the creator’s subjective artistic worldview, the hairdresser’s skill reflected contemporary realities and was oriented towards the possibilities, needs and spirit of the era. Therefore, many hairstyles of the 18th century are inextricably linked with the most important historical events. For example, to commemorate the launching of the royal frigate "Admiral" (Fig. 6), 18th century hairstyles a la a sailing ship came into fashion, perfectly fixed on the top of the head of an elegant, thin lady.

After 1770, during the late Rococo period, hairdressing flourished. Women's hairstyles. The original costume ended with a lovely female head with a smooth hairstyle significantly reduced in size. But already in the second half of the 18th century. the hairstyle “grows” upward again, sometimes to a height of up to 70 centimeters. Moreover, this happens almost in proportion to how the skirt widens more and more on the hips. Famous hairdressers, together with milliners, create still lifes of flowers, ribbons, decorative hairpins and feathers on the heads of their high-born clients; even whole ships with sails raised; windmills, bridges and much more, right down to garden architecture (Fig. 7). High hairstyles were made using fat, lipstick, pins, and ostrich feathers. Baskets of fruit or cornucopia were placed on top of the high hairstyle. The frigate hairstyle was especially popular - a pile of hair in the form of a sailing ship at the top of the head. This hairstyle was left in place for several days; during sleep, headrests were used, which made it possible to keep the hairstyle suspended.

Only after powdering your hair

The Rococo style is both a continuation and the opposite of Baroque. Rococo - style of the 18th century. The style, unlike Baroque, is designed for more modest spaces and small sizes. It is not for nothing that Rococo is also called an interior style. However, no less lush, elegant and bright.

Still from the film “Marie Antoinette”
Hairstyles and costume of the Rococo period.

The “ala fontange” hairstyle is still in fashion. Marie Antoinette loved this hairstyle. Another version of this hairstyle appears - “fontange commode” (“comfortable”).

Portrait of Madame Du Barry, by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun

In the middle of the 18th century, they wore a “tapi” hairstyle - whipped, curled hair laid high above the forehead. Hairstyles with an egg-shaped silhouette were also in fashion.

Jean Baptiste Gautier Dagoti. Marie Antoinette.
Marie Antoinette's bejeweled hairstyle. Author kuafer (hairdresser) Leonard.

Portrait of Marie Antoinette, by the artist and her friend Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun, 1785.

Frigate hairstyle

Updo hairstyle cartoon

Men's hairstyles were done using wigs. However, unlike the wigs of the 17th century, the wigs of the 18th century were much smaller in size.

Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun. Portrait of Etienne Vigée (the artist's brother), 1773.

Maurice Quentin de Latour. Self-portrait.
Hairstyle "a la bourse".

Joseph Duplessis. Portrait of Louis XVI, 1775.
A wig and “dove wings” (at the temples) on the hair.

There were also hairstyles with braids, which were tied with a bow. Such braids were not long and were called “pig tails.”

Maurice Quentin de Latour. Portrait of Rousseau, 1753.
Men's hairstyle. XVIII century.

Photos of modern hairstyles in the Rococo style

The philosophy of the Rococo style was determined by women. “Women reigned,” said Pushkin about the time when the dawn of Rococo was just beginning. Rococo considers the main things in life to be celebration, refined pleasure and love. Acting, the “art of appearing” in life, has reached such perfection in this century that the theater with its conventions on stage has faded.

Throughout the 18th century. sensuality and sophistication will determine the style of women's aristocratic clothing. In fashion, a thin figure, a flexible waist, soft rounded hips, a small head, small high breasts, small arms, a thin neck, narrow shoulders - the woman resembled an elegant porcelain figurine.

All aristocrats, be it the luxurious Marquise de Pompadour or the virtuous Maria Theresa, with the light hand of the Duchess of Shrewsbury, wore moderately fluffy skirts with a frame and a small, modest, lightly powdered hairstyle, decorated with bouquets or a lace headdress.

Marquise de Pompadour

Austrian Empress Maria Theresa

The fullness of the skirt was in harmony with the hairstyle and was relatively small

However, with the appearance of Marie Antoinette on the historical stage, paniers (in Russia - figmas) gradually acquired simply terrifying proportions. By 1725, they reached 7 or more feet in diameter, as a result of which the round pannier was replaced by double figs, when two half-dome shapes (for each hip separately) were fastened with braid at the waist.

Pannier skirt with elbows

This gondola pannier skirt (flat front and back)

However, the width of such a skirt created a lot of inconvenience for its owner... in particular, it was impossible to get into the carriage or walk through the door. French tailors soon improved this model, offering an ingenious design, albeit quite complex: a metal pannier, the individual parts of which were hinged and movable. They were controlled using ribbons released through small slits onto the surface of the skirt.

As the width of the skirt increased, so did the height of women's hairstyles. It all started modestly... :-)

However, already in the 70s, hairstyles were entire structures with a height of 50 to 100 cm, the construction of which was carried out by skilled hairdressers for several hours.

The era of hairdressing madness has arrived, marked by the appearance of the Queen's Flowers hairstyle, decorated with ears of grain and a cornucopia.

Competing with each other, the capital's coiffeurs invented not only hitherto unseen hairstyles, but also unheard-of names for them: “Zodiac”, “Stormy Waves”, “Hunter in the Bushes”, “Mad Dog”, “Duchess”, “Hermit”, “Cabbage”, “Musketeer”, “Garden”, “Angel’s Smile”, “Blooming Pleasantness”, “Lovely Simplicity”.

The creativity of the virtuoso hairdresser and hatter Leonard Authier, nicknamed Bolyar - “The Magnificent” and the irrepressible imagination of Queen Marie Antoinette gave the world such masterpieces as “An Explosion of Sensibility”, “Voluptuous”, “Secret Passion”. In comparison with the pale “sissy” or modest “butterfly” of the previous period, these were huge, complex hairstyles that were integral with the headdress. They reflected international events and advances in technology.

Headdresses, of course, existed independently. A whole trend in the creation of hats was invented by the famous maestro: “mood hats” - that was the name of the fancy structures, inscribed in the equally fancy hairstyles of sophisticated ladies. They were intended to express the secret thoughts and feelings of the person wearing such a hat.

Convenience, grace and beauty were sacrificed to Her Majesty Fashion. Despite the obvious inconveniences of such hairstyles, ladies slept with their heads on special stands; special frames were put on their heads and this support was braided with hair, masking iron or wooden rods. Dozens of hairpieces, hairpins, lipsticks and powders were used for such high hairstyles - coiffeurs invented and brought to life more and more new types of “artificiality”, trying to please all tastes, preferences, and also in accordance with political changes. The number of different hairstyles has constantly increased. The book “Praise of Hairdressers Directed to Ladies” listed 3,774 of them.

Marie Antoinette, 1780

Cartoonists mocked such coiffures as best they could

By the beginning of the 80s, thanks to the influence of the same restless Marie Antoinette, dresses acquired a softer silhouette and, first of all, this affected suits “for a country gentleman.” Corsets and paniers were not worn under such dresses, since these English-style dresses had an elongated back at the cape, visually narrowing the back and waist.

With a change in costume, the hairstyle changes somewhat. She gets lower - the “Princess Lamballe” hairstyle. Its shape is asymmetrical. Booklets are becoming unfashionable. Hair is curled and combed. Jewelry is used much less, and in the 80s, powder completely went out of fashion.

Thank you for your attention!