Hinged loops can be crocheted either during the process of tying the edge of a knitted product, or after this product is ready. Knitting hanging loops while tying the edge is convenient because there is no need to tear off the thread for the loop and then hide its ends. And it happens that a crocheted product is ready, or the product is knitted with knitting needles, and you need to make a hanging loop, then each hanging loop is crocheted separately.
How to knit hidden hinged loops
We tie the edges of the product with columns. In the place where the loop should be, we knit a chain of air loops, the length of which = the diameter of the button. On the base we skip as many loops as there are air loops in the chain.
How to knit obvious hanging loops
We tie the edge of the product with columns. In the place where the loop should be, we knit a chain of air loops in accordance with the size of the button. On the base, the number of skipped loops is less than the air loops in the chain.
Hanging loops tied with posts
In the place where the loop should be, we knit a chain of air loops in accordance with the size of the button. Then we tie this chain with single crochets, tying them several more than there are chain loops in the chain so that the buttonhole turns out tight and neat.
Hanging loop made of half-columns
We tie the edges of the product with columns. In the place where the loop should be, we knit a chain of air loops in accordance with the size of the button. Then we take the hook out of the loop and stick it, for example, into the 4th loop of the base from the chain, insert it into the loop of the chain and pull it under the loop of the base.
The buttonhole is the final detail. Hinges can be vertical, horizontal, or hinged. Neat buttonholes will give your items professional look. This is work you can be proud of!
The choice of buttonholes will depend on the garment, where you plan to wear it, the placement of the buttonholes, the size and shape of the buttons, and the type of yarn. You should always remember that women's buttonholes should be on the right, and men's buttonholes should be on the left.
Knit the pattern onto the buttonholes to make sure they fit the buttons you choose. The buttonhole should be just wide enough to fit the button through. Because knitted fabric stretches, loops that are too wide can cause buttons to come undone frequently. Loops for flat buttons should be slightly smaller than loops for buttons with stems of the same diameter. When you knit a sample, immediately try to knit different types loops, matching them with pre-prepared buttons.
Even if you are knitting according to instructions that tell you what the distance between stitches should be, it is better to double check before knitting stitches. This is especially important if you changed the length of the product, so you will have to change the distance between the loops.
The top and bottom loops are usually located at a distance of 1.25 - 2.5 cm from the beginning of the neckline and from the bottom edge of the product. If you are knitting the neckline binding after the stitch placket, consider the width of the binding. You may need to place the top stitch on the binding and then place the remaining stitches evenly between the top and bottom. Most instructions include this information.
As a general rule, the buttons should be spaced evenly apart on a neat line down the front of the garment. But you can show your imagination and do something more original, for example, use a single button at the neck or sew groups of 2 - 3 loops in front.
In order to evenly distribute the loops, determine the location of the top and bottom loops. Mark these locations with a marker, safety pin, or piece of thread. You now have two options for determining the distance between the remaining loops:
Option #1: MATHEMATICAL
Place the part on the table, measure the distance between the markers at the top and bottom of the part. Divide the distance by the number of stitches remaining plus one. That is, if you need four more stitches, divide the distance by 5. Using a ruler, place markers at the intervals you determined in step 2.
Option No. 2: NOT MATHEMATICAL (Figure 1)
Fold the piece in half so that the top and bottom stitch markers meet. Place a third marker on the fold and unfold the piece. Fold it again so that the center and top markers align. Place the fourth marker on the fold and unfold the piece. Bend the piece again so that the center and bottom markers match. Place the fifth marker on the fold and unfold the piece. If necessary, continue to split the distance between the markers until you have marked the desired number of holes.
Horizontal loop
This is the most popular buttonhole. It can be worked on single crochet and half crochet stitches, but for single crochet stitches or taller stitches the stitch may be too loose. Changing the hole size for different button sizes is very easy: just skip extra stitches and work extra chain stitches. Start with a basic row of single crochets.
Place markers where you want to knit the button hole. Knit single crochets up to the marker (Fig. 2), knit several chain stitches in accordance with the size of the hole, skip the same number of stitches as you knitted chain loops, knit with single crochet stitches until the next marker. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have knitted all the button holes, then finish knitting the row. In the next row, in each arch, knit as many single crochets as you missed in the previous row.
Vertical loop
These buttonholes are knitted across the placket.
Tie to the place marked for the button and turn. Knit all subsequent rows in straight and reverse rows up to this mark until you get a hole of the required height; finish from the hole side. Work a connecting stitch along the bottom edge of the hole to continue knitting the remaining row. Knit these loops to the height of the first half of the hole. Next, knit all the loops according to the pattern of the fabric, thus closing them over the cut, which became a loop.
Every craftswoman who creates with her own hands knitted products, should know how to make chain loops for buttons. These elements in various models can be not only a functional necessity, but also become a real decorative finish. In this article we will tell you and show you with examples how to make air loops for buttons neatly, beautifully and quickly.
This type of buttonhole is best suited for small fasteners - with one or two buttons - and delicate items.
Chain loops are a type of buttonhole. They are very easy to make as they are done along the edge after the piece is completed. Such a loop can be knitted with a needle, as described below, or with a crochet hook.
How to make air loops for buttons?
In order to make air loops for buttons, follow the algorithm of actions described below.
1. Mark the location of the loop by placing 2 pins on the edge of the product. The location of these marks depends on where the button will be located and its diameter.
2. Thread the thread through a round-tipped needle. Bring the needle from the wrong side to the right side from the edge of the product, at the level of the top mark. Then pass the needle through the wrong side at the level of the bottom mark and pull the thread until you get a loop of the desired size.
3. Bring the needle back to the front side at the starting point. You now have a double loop that will serve as the “base”. Make sure the size is correct for the buttons you choose. To do this, thread a button through each eyelet and, if necessary, change the size. You can also make a triple warp if you have very fine yarn.
4. Now you need to close the "base". Start at the top mark (that is, where you are now), place the thread behind the “warp” of the loop and the needle in front of it, so that the thread comes away from the needle to the left. Now pass the needle under the “warp” of the hanging loop and over the working thread located behind the “warp”. Tighten the knot by threading the needle through the resulting loop from back to front. Pull the thread taut to finish the stitch while pulling it as close to the start (edge of the piece) as possible.
5. Repeat step 4. Make sure that all the stitches look the same, and that the small knots that secure them line up in a straight line.
6. When you reach the edge of the eyelet, make sure that the last stitch is very close to the edge of the project. To finish the loop, pass the thread under several stitches. Pull it taut and cut close to the stitches.
7. The finished chain stitch is a sequence of small identical stitches that completely cover the “base”. This is a very elegant detail that adorns the edge of the product.
Now you know how to knit a chain stitch for buttons. We recommend that you practice on a separate piece of canvas before you begin to design the finished product.
If you are going to knit clothes that require a fastener, you will probably encounter a “button” problem. Before we begin to study this issue, it must be said that loops can be multidirectional, namely horizontal and vertical. There are also so-called “holes”. Their length depends, of course, on the diameter of the buttons used, but when knitting there is a risk of rapid stretching. Based on this information, it is recommended to make the loop half the size. And one more thing. To prevent the button from falling over the edge of the placket, it is advisable to tie the middle of the hole in a horizontal position so that it is slightly closer to the shelf. That is, move it slightly in this direction.
The article will include the following reductions:
- Row – R.
- Loop - P.
- Purl – I.
- Front - L.
- The back wall is ZS.
- Edge - KR.
- Cape – N.
Such loops can be knitted in two ways. First, let's practice on a sample: dial 15 P, perform 4 P: 10 P with garter type knitting (imitation of a strap) and 5 P with stockings (imitation of a shelf).
To make buttonholes directed horizontally, knit 3 LP after KR, close 4 P, 7 LP. In the next IR: 5 IP, 2 LP, dial 4 P and finish R. Thus, the work is done in two R. In the next. The LR loops that were cast on should be knitted with the LR behind the GS:
Holes for buttons knitted using the 2nd method turn out to be much narrower than the previous ones and are knitted in 1 R. After the KR we knit 3 LPs, close 4 P without the participation of the working thread: remove 2 P on the right tool and put the 1st P on the 2nd with the left tool, repeat this 3 more times and return the loop to the knitting needle located on the right, and with the working thread we knit 4 new P. R knit the LP. Next IR new P knit LP for ZS.
Video: Knitting horizontal holes
Vertical slot
Now let's look at the vertical arrangement. Here, too, two methods can be distinguished. For training, we create the same sample as before.
We start from the front side: KR, 4 RL, hang everything on a pin, knit the remaining 10 R until we reach the required length of the hole (for example, 7 R). After this, the thread should be located where the loop cut will be. The next step is to take an additional ball and work with the 2nd half of the plank, starting from the side where the cut is. Having completed 7 P, cut the thread, leaving 4 cm on the side of the cut. Now we connect the work, hiding the edges on the inside using a hook:
We knit everything the same way until the moment of introducing an additional ball (7 R per loop height), perform the 8th IR until the cut and wrap the tip of the knitting needle on the right with thread in a counterclockwise direction 7 times. The number of these turns is equal to the number of P in the length of the loop. Using the same tool we knit the second half of the LP strip. This way all the P's will be on the same instrument. Further we work only with right half: having reached the LP to the slot, we knit together the last P and 1 turn of the LP behind the GS, turn it to the inside, remove 1 P as a KR and work the LP. Next P again connect the last P with the turn and so on until the end. Then we knit the bar over the loop:
Video: Knitting vertical holes
Holes
One more option for buttonholes made with knitting needles remains unconsidered - these are “holes”. They also have several ways of doing it.
In the place where the loop is planned, we make H, which is next. P is simply thrown off the spoke. This creates a hole for a small button.
If our hole should be larger, then we make H with inside, and the following 2Ps are combined into ZS. Next R – N we knit LP.
Another option is the 1st horizontal loop method, but you only need to close 1 P instead of 4.
We looked at several options for buttonholes made with knitting needles. And now all you have to do is choose which one is right for you.
Video: The easiest way is holes
A selection of photos of MK knitting slots
The buttonhole is the final detail. It might seem insignificant, but the impression of the item can be spoiled by a carelessly executed buttonhole.
Methods for knitting buttonholes depend on the type of loop you intend to sew.
Knitted buttonholes can be:
- captive (mounted)
- horizontal
- vertical
Hinged knitted buttonhole
A hanging knitted buttonhole is the easiest way to form a small, neat buttonhole without additional processing. It is most suitable for small buttons and is often used when knitting children's clothing. A hanging knitted loop is made with a crochet hook, which is used to knit a chain of air loops of the required length. The end of the resulting chain is sewn to the edge of the product.
Horizontal knitted buttonhole
Horizontal knitted loop for a button, it is done in two rows and on a series of loops that should be closed in one row and then picked up in the next. The number of closed loops depends on the size of the button and the thickness of the yarn.
Vertical knitted buttonhole
The vertical knitted buttonhole is made using a simple vertical slit. Depending on the thickness of the yarn, a fairly deep gap is formed by knitting two rows of the strip.
Video: knitting buttonholes
Speaking of planks (what types of planks there are)
Vertical knitted stripes the shelves are knitted separately and then sewn to the product. However, if the edging of the lower edge of the fabric of a knitted item is made with an elastic band, then the bar can be knitted simultaneously with the edging.
When the edge is knitted, the stitches of the front placket are pinned and knitted after the front is knitted (usually with larger needles). To ensure that the plank lies flat, during operation it is slightly stretched and pinned to the edge of the shelf. Make sure that the number of connected rows is the same on both planks.
