Women's fur headwear includes capes, half-pelerines, stoles (Fig. 44), gorgets (flat with lining and tubular without lining), scarves and kerchiefs. They are sorted according to GOST 10151-75.
Women's fur headwear by ridges, color, coloring, quality groups, softness, silveriness, pattern must meet the requirements of standards and other regulatory and technical documentation for semi-finished fur products.
Products must be made from skins or parts thereof that are uniform in thickness, height, softness, curl, shine, color, and hair color; skins with curled hair should be selected according to the nature of the curl.
The color, thickness, and height of the hair must correspond to the natural changes in properties in areas of the skin characteristic of this type of fur raw material.
The coloring of the hair of products made from single-colored skins must be uniform.
Holes, tears, bald spots, dominoes, bites, as well as areas with a clearly different character of the hairline must be removed, inserts and attachments must be selected in accordance with the quality and direction of the hairline and should not stand out from the general background of the product. Holes and bald spots with an area of no more than 0.2 cm 2 are allowed.
Women's fur headwear, except for tubular gorgets, is made on a silk lining, scarves are made on a silk and fur lining.
Drapes- These are sleeveless, lined capes that fit the shoulders, back and chest and are worn over a dress. Drapes are made from semi-finished fur products of valuable species. There are Pelevins different models, long and short, narrow and wide. The tails of the skins are sewn to the bottom of the cape. Drapes consist of two shelves (right and left) and a back. Place between the knife cloth and the lining cotton fabric. A hook is attached to the right side, and a loop of twisted silk is attached to the left side. The number of skins per cape, depending on the type of semi-finished product, is: ermine - 80-100, weasel - 20-26, martens - 10-12, fox - 4-5, mink - 15-20, sable - 6-10, arctic fox - 3-4.
When making capes, complex cutting methods are used (transfer, jointing and unraveling).
Half capes somewhat shorter and narrower than the cape. By appearance they resemble a shawl collar. Half capes can replace the collar on a winter coat or serve as decoration for women's dresses and suits. They are made from the skins of silver-black fox, natural and dyed arctic fox, mink, Ussuri raccoon, marten and sable. The skins are cut along the ridge and in the middle of the womb into two parts and joined at the rump. Half capes come in different styles. The area of a half-pelerine made from fox skin is from 17 to 20 dm2, from arctic fox - from 15 to 18 dm2, from Ussuri raccoon - at least 19 dm2.
Stole- a fur strip 2-2.5 m long and 30 to 50 cm wide. The stole in appearance resembles a large turn-down collar, but unlike it, it has elongated ends. Stoles are made (unlike gorgets without heads) from the skins of sable, marten, mink, ermine, and mole.
Gorgets- whole fur skins with head, paws and tail. They are made tubular from uncut skins removed with a tube, or flat from skins split along the body, on a silk lining. Gorgets have a round shape. The inside of the tubular gorget should be lined with a thin layer of tufted batting. The heads of gorgets are usually made of solid papier-mâché, with teeth and eyes; On more expensive gorgets, the heads may be soft, without teeth. Gorgets are made from the skins of common, silver-black, platinum fox, gray fox, white and blue fox, marten, mink and sable.
Gorgets must be made of skins with a head, tail and paws with claws.
Scarves- fur strips lined with silk or fur, 100-200 cm long and 10-70 cm wide. Scarves can be made from skins with or without a head, paws, tail.
Headscarves- collars of complex cutting methods on a silk lining. They are worn without sewing on over a dress or coat.
In products, the skins must be uniform in appearance, grade, group of defects, color, shade, softness, shine and hair height.
The quality of the hairline of inserts and attachments must correspond to the quality of the hairline of the product. Inserts and attachments should not stand out.
The transverse seams connecting the fur skins of the scarf, as well as the seams on the right and left shelves of the cape and half-cape, must match.
Drapes, half-pelerines, gorgets and scarves may have fasteners.
Finished fur products are divided into fur (hair on the outside) and sheepskin (leather fabric on the outside). The range of fur products is classified as follows.
By purpose fur products are divided into six product groups: fur outerwear, fur parts of clothing, women's fur headwear, fur hats, household fur products, fur haberdashery.
By gender and age They are divided into men's, women's, and children's. Children's clothing is divided into the following groups: senior school, junior school, preschool, nursery.
According to the type of semi-finished product used fur products for men are made from sheepskin, dog fur, opika, astrakhan fur, rabbit, seal, etc.; for women they use all types of semi-finished products (mink, arctic fox, sable, etc.), for children - from rabbit, sheepskin, mole, cat, etc.;
For finishing semi-finished products a distinction is made between natural fur products (undyed), dyed, shorn, epilated (the tops of the guard and guide hairs are removed), refined (special treatment of sheepskin to give the hair shine and silkiness), etc. Dyeing can be used immersion(hair and leather tissue are painted the same color), punchy(only the hair is dyed) riding(the top layer of hair is colored), airbrush(on the surface of the skins there are smooth transitions of tones and halftones when simulating valuable types of fur), stencil(on the hair there are single or multi-color patterns imitating the skins of a leopard, zebra, etc.), backup(the main part of the hair is dyed in dark tones, and the ends of the hair remain white).
By style.
The style of clothing is characterized by the silhouette and the cut of individual parts. Silhouette characterizes the degree of fit of the product to the figure. More often used are straight, semi-adjacent, trapezoidal. Cut Fur clothing is determined by the cut of the collar (stand-up, turn-down, shawl, stand-up scarf, turn-down with lapels, etc.), the cut of the sleeves (set-in, raglan, one-piece, combined), the type of fastener (without fastener, single-breasted, double-breasted, hidden), etc. .d.
Headwear styles the most varied. For example:
Hat with ear flaps- a fur headdress with a visor and a side with headphones. It can be all-fur or combined.
Boyarka- fur headdress consisting of a wide band and cap . It can be all-fur (classic - from different types semi-finished products) and combined.
Ukrainian- all-fur a headdress of an undivided shape, with a high cap of a trapezoidal silhouette tapering towards the top.
"Gogol" - differs from the Ukrainian one in smaller height .
"Olympic"- all-fur a headdress consisting of a cap, a wide back and a horizontal visor.
"Sports"- an all-fur headdress consisting of a cap, a backdrop, small ears and a visor.
Cap- women's headdress of an elongated shape.
Current- women's headdress of round or rectangular shape.
Turban- a woman's headdress with a hard cap round shape 1, 2, 3, 4 spiral weaves and reliefs.
Fez- soft headdress with a tassel.
Collar styles- straight, straight with lapels, shawl, etc.
Size fur clothing is determined like the size of sewing clothing according to three dimensional criteria: height, chest girth, hip girth for women or waist girth for men and children. The size of headdresses is determined by the length of the head circumference at the level of the middle of the forehead and along the most convex part of the back of the head in centimeters, and the size of collars is determined by the length of the sewing line.
By type of product.
Fur outerwear includes:
Coat- shoulder clothing with sleeves, a slit from top to bottom, length 112-120 cm for women and 95-107 for men.
Short coat- short coat: for women - 80-100 cm, and for men - 88-98 cm.
Jacket- women's shoulder clothing of a rigidly fixed shape with sleeves, a slit from top to bottom, covering the torso and part of the hips, 65-75 cm long.
Blazer- men's shoulder clothing of a rigidly fixed shape with sleeves, a slit from top to bottom, covering the torso and part of the hips, 85-97 cm long.
Manto- a women's coat with a large wraparound, wide armholes, without fasteners, made from valuable types of fur.
Jacket- shoulder clothing with sleeves, a slit from top to bottom, not having a rigidly fixed shape.
Vest- Shoulder clothing with sleeveless armholes.
The range of types of children's fur clothing includes coats, jackets, jackets.
Fur parts of sewing clothing include collars, cuffs (narrow strips sewn to the bottom of the sleeves), fur trims (narrow strips sewn to the bottom, sides, pockets of outerwear), fur lining (used for clothes with a fabric top), tailoring (a set of parts for making a product ).
For women's fur garments relate:
Cape- a free-form sleeveless cape that fits the shoulders, back, chest, and is used as an elegant addition to the dress.
Half cape unlike the cape, it is shorter in length.
Gorget- a whole skin with a head, tail and paws with claws. There can be tubular gorgets - from whole uncut skins with a lining of batting and flat gorgets - from skins cut along the waist on a silk lining.
Scarf- a rectangular-shaped product, up to 30 cm wide, 2-2.5 m long.
Stole- scarf 2-2.5 m long and 30-70 cm wide.
coupling- a ring-shaped product to protect hands.
Fur hats includecaps, hats, caps, which are described in the section of sewing goods.
goods non-food assortment quality
Fur goods include a variety of fur products made from natural fur and fur skins; undressed and dressed skins and skins from fur-bearing, sea animals, domestic and farm animals. Thus, a distinction is made between fur raw materials, semi-finished products and products.
Fur raw materials- raw, untreated skins.
Fur semi-finished products- dressed, sometimes dyed skins, suitable for making products.
Fur product— all types of products made from natural fur, including plates and furs.
Fur raw materials are divided into 4 groups:
- fur raw materials ( fur) - skins obtained from animals hunted (sable, squirrel, otter, wolf, marmot, gopher, etc.) or bred on animal farms (mink, blue arctic fox, silver-black fox, sable, marmot, polecat);
- fur raw materials - skins obtained from domestic and farm animals (rabbits, dogs, cats, sheep, goats, reindeer) that have beautiful hair and are suitable for the manufacture of fur products;
- fur marine raw materials - skins of fur seals and seals of various age groups (belek, khokhlusha, serka, seal), suitable for the quality of hair for the manufacture of fur products;
- skins birds- skins of some species of waterfowl (grebe, loon, pelican, cormorant, swan, geese), which have dense, soft and durable feather and down cover, suitable for the production of fur products.
Fur and fur raw materials are usually divided into winter and spring types.
Winter species include skins of animals that have best fur in winter, do not hibernate, which are mainly caught in winter time(mink, fox, squirrel, weasel, marten, sable, hare, etc.), as well as the skins of animals whose hair in winter has best quality(rabbit, cat, dog).
Spring species include skins of animals lying in hibernation(gopher, marmot, mole, muskrat, nutria, etc.), which are hunted in spring, autumn and summer, as well as young domestic animals (sheep, goats, deer, foals, calves, etc.).
Skin structure
A fur skin has hair and skin tissue, which consists of the epidermis (surface layer), dermis (the main layer of skin tissue formed from tightly intertwined bundles of collagen fibers) and subcutaneous adipose tissue (removed during the dressing process). Hair cover - a collection of various hairs covering the body of an animal, performing protective and thermoregulatory functions. Hair is formed from the protein keratin and consists of a shaft and a bulb. The hair shaft is made up of three layers: the cuticle (the outer scaly layer), the cortex and the medulla. Hair can be of three types in shape: spindle-shaped, cylindrical and conical. Depending on the nature and degree of crimp, the hair of fur-bearing animals comes in various shapes: straight, curved at an angle, curved along the length, wavy, corkscrew-shaped, spiral. The hair of fur skins includes several categories of hair: tactile, covering, downy. Covering hair consists of guide hairs (straight, thick and long, protruding above the hairline, forming a “veil”) and guard hairs (shorter and thinner than guide hairs). Down hairs are thin and short, the most numerous.
The skin consists of the following topographical sections: tail, rump, ridge, scruff, muzzle, chuck, sides, womb, paws.
Fur raw materials are raw materials of natural origin; their quality and properties depend mainly on the natural, biological characteristics of the skin.
The hair coat of animals, under the influence of various environmental factors, is subject to strong variability, which is associated with living conditions, keeping and feeding, geographic location (geographical variability), time of year (seasonal variability), gender (sexual variability), age (age variability) and individual deviations (individual variability).
In fur-bearing animals that lead a terrestrial lifestyle (squirrel, sable, marten, fox), the difference in the pubescence of individual parts of the body is pronounced: the ridge is always covered with thicker hair than the womb. The color of the hairline of the ridge is darker. The skin on the ridge is thicker than on the womb. Animals that lead an underground lifestyle, i.e., spend most of their time in burrows (mole, mole rat), are covered with uniform hair. In amphibious fur-bearing animals (otter, mink, muskrat, nutria, river beaver), the womb is covered with thicker hair than the ridge. The color and thickness of the skin of the ridge and womb are the same in most species of amphibians.
Varies depending on climate following signs skins: size, thickness and length of hair, softness and color of hair and thickness of leather tissue. Northern fur-bearing animals are covered with thicker and longer hair than southern animals of the same species. Typically, the skins of northern animals are covered with softer hair than the skins of animals from the southern regions. As the thickness increases, the hair becomes thinner and appears softer. Air humidity also affects the softness of hair. Animals living in more humid climates have coarser fur. The hair color of individuals from the northern regions is lighter or completely white (protective), the forest belt is intensely saturated, the steppe and desert regions are dull, sandy-gray in color. A ridge is a set of certain commercial properties characteristic of fur pelts of a given type, obtained in a certain geographical area. The ridge, as a rule, is given the name of the geographical area where the skins come from: Amur squirrel, Yakut squirrel, Altai squirrel.
| Product groups | Types of semi-finished fur products |
| Winter | |
| Otters | Otter, sea otter, mink |
| Beavers | River beaver, nutria |
| Muskrats | Muskrat, muskrat |
| Musteluns | Sable, soft marten, mountain marten, harza, kidus |
| Ferrets | Dark ferret, light ferret, bandaged ferret, weasel, solongoi, ermine, weasel |
| Foxes | Fox: red, silver-black, platinum, snow, black and white fox, cross, corsac, jackal, wolf, white arctic fox, blue arctic fox, striped raccoon, |
| Raccoon | Ussuri raccoon |
| Felines | Wild cats: manul, reed, forest, Amur, steppe, lynx, leopard, leopard, tiger, cheetah |
| Wolverines | Wolverine |
| Badgers | Badger |
| Bearish | Polar bear, forest bear |
| Hare | White hare, brown hare |
| Squirrel | Squirrel, flying squirrel |
| Spring | |
| Marmots | Marmot, tarbagan |
| Small rodents | Chipmunk, water rat, barn rat, hamster, grasshopper, mole rat, dormouse, jerboa, gopher |
| Moles | Mole |
Fox skins. There are skins of red foxes, gray foxes, cross foxes, black-brown foxes, platinum foxes, and snow foxes. The color of the hair varies from dark red (bright red) to gray or off-white. Skins with ugly colors are dyed. Gorgets, collars, capes, hats, and women's outerwear are made from them.
Mink skins. There are two types of mink: cage-bred and hunted. The skins have soft and silky hair, with well-developed downy hairs and protruding guard hairs. Mink skins obtained by hunting are divided into 3 ridges: Siberian, northern and Caucasian. The color of the hair of skins obtained by hunting is dark brown or light brown. There is a wide variety of shades of cage-bred mink skins (extra, blue iris, sapphire, pastel, topaz, palamino, Aleutian and
etc.). Mink skins are used in in kind for the manufacture of collars, hats, women's coats, coats, women's fur garments. In recent years, mink skins have been plucked (the guard hairs are removed) to obtain a velvety coat.
Arctic fox skins. The Arctic fox has a thick, tall coat of hair with highly developed soft guard hairs and very dense down. The thickest and highest hairline is on the nape of the skin, less dense on the rump and sparse on the womb. Based on the color of their hair, Arctic foxes are divided into white and blue. Hats, gorgets, women's coats, short coats, collars, cuffs, etc. are made from arctic fox skins.
Sable skins. The most valuable type of domestic fur. The sable's hair is particularly thick and silky and can range in color from black-brown to light chestnut. There is a faint light yellow spot on the sable's throat. Free sable skins are divided according to ridges (Barguzin, Kamchatka, Amur, Yakut, Minusinsk, etc.). Sable skins are characterized by strong individual variability. Depending on the color of the hair, sable skins are divided into seven color categories. Sable skins are used to make collars, hats, gorgets, capes, stoles, women's coats, and mantles.
Muskrat skins. The hair of a muskrat's skin is relatively thick, consisting of an elastic spine and soft silky silver-blue fluff; the coloring is dark or light brown and silvery-white on the body. They are produced natural and dyed, mainly brown.
To the group FUR semi-finished products include skins of winter and spring species. Winter species include the skins of rabbits, cats and dogs. The group of semi-finished fur products of spring species includes the skins of the following domestic animals: reindeer, foals, calves, kids. The skins of foals and calves are produced natural or dyed (black or colored). The range of these skins includes:
- foal- the skin of a foal with low, smooth or moire hairline adjacent to the skin tissue; the leather fabric is thin;
- opoek- skin of a calf up to 10 days old. The hairline of the hide is low, thick, moire or smooth.
- goat- skin of a kid up to 1 month old. The hair of a goat is almost without fluff, soft, up to 4 cm high.
These types of semi-finished fur products are used for coats, short coats, and jackets.
Semi-finished sheepskin fur product. These are the skins of fine-fleece, semi-fine-fleece and semi-coarse sheep breeds. The hair of fine-wool sheepskin is thick, uniform in height (up to 8 cm), consisting of thin, strongly and evenly crimped hair up to 25 microns thick. Semi-fine-fleece sheepskin has a thick and high hair coat, consisting of coarser and less crimped hair than that of fine-fleece sheepskin. Hair thickness 25.1-31 microns. Semi-coarse wool sheepskin has a non-uniform hair coat, the hair thickness is more than 31 microns. Sheepskin fur is produced sheared (with hair height from 5 to 20 mm depending on the purpose), natural or dyed. In recent years, double-sided finishing of fur sheepskins has been used: the hair and leather fabric are refined, so-called fur velor and fur sheepskin with a film coating are produced. Fur outerwear, hats, collars, and vests are made from sheepskin fur.
Sheepskin and fur coat semi-finished product. obtained from coarse-wooled breeds of sheep: Romanov, Russian, steppe, etc. They are characterized by a coarse hair coat, heterogeneous in height, consisting of guard and down hairs. Modern semi-finished sheepskin fur products are characterized by double-sided finishing on the hair and leather side. A sheepskin coat may have a film coating. Sheepskin coats (sheepskin coats) are made from semi-finished sheepskin fur products.
Karakul-smushkovo-merlushechny semi-finished products. Astrakhan-smushkovo-merlushka semi-finished products include the skins of lambs of a certain age of various breeds of sheep with primary hair: astrakhan, astrakhan, smushka, merlushka, strap, etc. Astrakhan and astrakhan fur are obtained from lambs of the Astrakhan or crossbred breed of sheep. Smushka, whiting, strap - from lambs of fine-fleece, semi-fine-fleece, semi-coarse-wool and coarse-wool sheep.
Broadtail— the skin of an unborn lamb of purebred Karakul sheep and mestizos with low, soft hair tightly adjacent to the skin tissue, with a moiré pattern; the leather fabric is thin. Astrakhan fur is used for coats and jackets, but mainly as a trim for women's dresses, coats, suits.
Astrakhan- lamb skin aged 1-3 days. Karakul purebred (Karakul) sheep have silky, dense hair in the form of curls various shapes. The following main types of curls are distinguished: roller, bob, mane, as well as ring, half-ring, corkscrew, lassy, polka dot. Karakul mixed breed (from cross-bred lambs of coarse-wool sheep and Karakul sheep) is characterized by coarse or slightly silky, glassy-shiny or matte hair with various astrakhan curls. According to the color of the hair, purebred and mixed-breed astrakhan can be black (dyed), colored (sur, brown, white, pink, motley), gray (black, light, dark gray). Black and colored astrakhan fur is used for women's coats and jackets, as well as men's and women's collars and hats.
Smushka— lamb skin of Smuskov breeds of sheep (Chushka, Sokolskaya, etc.) at the age of 2-4 days. The curls are similar in shape to astrakhan curls, but looser and braided.
Sea animal skins are divided into the following age groups: belek (skin of a baby seal with primary hair coat of white and cream colors, sometimes with grayish or greenish tint); hooded seal (the skin of a baby hooded seal of a dark silver color); serka and sivar (skins of cubs and young seals with secondary, shiny, low, smooth hair of gray or silver-gray color, in the Baikal seal - with a greenish tint); seal and seal (skins of adult seals and seals with a low, shiny hair coat consisting of awns of gray-green, light yellow, smoky colors with dark spots).
Classification and characteristics of the range of fur products
Fur products are divided according to their functional purpose into the following groups: outer fur clothing; fur parts for clothes with a top made of leather, fabrics; fur women's clothing; fur hats; fur haberdashery; fur shoes; household fur products; plates and bellows.
According to gender and age, individual groups are divided into subgroups: women's, men's, children's. In subgroups, products are classified by types, styles, and sizes.
Fur outerwear
Women's fur outerwear. The assortment consists of coats (large wrap, wide armholes and no fasteners), coats (112-120 cm), short coats (80-100 cm) and jackets (65-75 cm), which vary in length. The styles of women's fur outerwear can be quite varied: single-breasted, double-breasted, simple and complex cutting methods. Coat silhouettes: semi-fitting, close-fitting, straight, flared from the waist, from the top, etc. For women's coats, short coats, jackets, jackets, the following semi-finished products are used: squirrel, astrakhan fur, goat, cat, rabbit of various imitations, mole, whiting, mink , sheepskin, seal fur, muskrat, polecat, opossum, marmot, fox, white and blue arctic fox, etc. For the outer fur women's clothing GOST provides 9 sizes and 5 heights.
Men's outerwear. Range of top men's clothing has less variety. Coats, short coats, jackets, jackets and vests are produced from semi-coarse-wool and coarse-wool sheepskin, dog skins, foals, feathers, whiting, and seals. The direction of the hair is from top to bottom. Recently, products made from sheepskin fur coats with double-sided finishing (velor-like and latex-coated) have become most widespread. Men's outerwear is made in 9 sizes and 5 heights.
Children's outerwear. The styles of coats and jackets depend on the age group. There are 3 age groups: preschool or nursery, junior school, senior school. For the first group, products for boys and girls are almost the same in style. Mostly coats are sewn with a straight or widened silhouette towards the bottom. For girls, semi-finished fur products are used in light colors, for boys - in darker colors. Coat for girls school and adolescence They produce straight, semi-fitting and extended silhouettes, single-breasted or double-breasted, sleeves - set-in, raglan, combined, yoke sleeves, stand-up collars, round, shawl, in the form of a hood, scarf, etc. Inexpensive types of semi-finished products are used for children's clothing: sheepskin and velor fur, rabbit, cat, whiting, smushka, strap, white hare. Arctic fox and fox skins are also used as finishing.
Fur part of clothing. The fur part of the clothing consists of collars, cuffs, trim, and fur lining. Fur collars are divided by sex and age groups, styles, sizes, colors, varieties and defect groups. Collar styles are very diverse and depend on fashion (shawl, straight, stand-up). For women's collars, semi-finished fur products of almost all types are used, for men's - from astrakhan fur, smushka, rabbit, sheared dyed sheepskin, etc. Children's collars are made from cheap types of fur semi-finished products - rabbit, squirrel, whiting, sheared dyed sheepskin .Fur lining for winter coats and jackets is made from sheepskin and fur coats, rabbit, astrakhan fur, fox paws and souls, furrier's rag.
Women's fur dresses. These products are divided into 2 groups: lined with silk (pelerines, half-pelerines, stoles, flat gorgets); unlined (tubular gorgets).
Drapes are a sleeveless cape. There are a wide variety of styles: long, short, wide, narrow. Tails are often sewn to the hem of capes. Pelerines - large collar. They are made from valuable types of fur: mink, squirrel, muskrat, sable, marten, weasel, ermine, silver-black fox, arctic fox, muskrat, broadtail, etc. Stoles are a strip of varying lengths (2-2.5 m) and widths (30-50 cm), sewn from the skins of sable, marten, mink, ermine, astrakhan fur, squirrel, etc. Gorgets are made round from uncut skins with heads, or flat, spread out on a silk lining.
Fur hats. The range of hats is varied. They produce men's, women's and children's hats. The size is determined by the circumference of inside bottom side. Headgear sizes for adults are 54-63, for children - 50-60. The styles of women's hats change quite often in accordance with fashion (hat with a brim, fantasy, tok, beret, boyarka, hood, ball, etc.). For them, the skins of arctic fox, sable, fox, nutria, astrakhan fur, astrakhan fur, ermine, otter, rabbit, squirrel, seal, sheepskin and
etc. The range of men's hats is more stable (boyarka, Moscow, gogol, earflap hat, papakha, kubanka, sports, Olympic, Leningrad). Men's hats are made from short-haired types of fur semi-finished products: astrakhan fur, smushka, whiting, skins of sea animals, calf, foal, rabbit, sheepskin, as well as mink and sable.
Fur haberdashery. Fur haberdashery usually includes mittens and gloves made using fur (webbing, rabbit). In recent years, handbags and muffs made of mink, astrakhan fur, rabbit, and sheepskin have become popular.
Household fur products. Household fur products mean carpets, bedspreads, blankets, pillows mainly made of sheepskin, as well as bear, leopard, zebra and other exotic types of fur used for interior decoration.
Sheepskin and fur products. Products made from fur sheepskin without lining with the leather fabric facing out are called headwear (sheepskin-fur). These products are characterized by high heat-protective properties and good wearability. These products are traditional for Russia and common in rural areas. Their range has expanded in recent years due to the use of color-dyed sheepskin coats with ennobled hair and leather fabric trimmed to look like velor. Modern product designs and improved finishing meet the increased demands of consumers for these clothes, commonly called sheepskin coats. For them, sheared fur sheepskins with a straightened hair length of 30 mm are used. Sheepskin and fur products are divided according to gender and age into: men's, women's and children's; by type: sheepskin coats, short fur coats, jackets, coats, short coats, jackets, vests; by size.
Regulatory documents regulating the quality of fur semi-finished products and products
There is no single standard classifying all types of fur. Standards for fur semi-finished products and goods can be divided into standards characterizing fur and fur raw materials various types; dressed skins of various types of furs and furs; methods for testing tanned fur skins; standards for fur products of various types.
Requirements for fur products are set out in the following standards: GOST 5710-85 "Clothing made of sheepskin and fur velor", GOST 28503-90 "Clothing with fur lining", GOST 8765-93 "Fur and combined clothing", GOST 10325-79 " Fur hats", GOST 10151-75 "Fur headwear for women".
Peculiarities of examination of fur semi-finished products and products made from them
Semi-finished fur products are divided according to ridges, sizes, varieties, color and groups of defects.
Division by ridges is typical for the skins of squirrel, sable, red fox, free mink, white fox, marmot, and tarbagan. The skins of various ridges differ in a number of commercial properties inherent to skins obtained only in a given geographical area. Such properties are: skin size, fluffiness, height, density, color, silkiness of hair, thickness of leather tissue, weight of the skin.
By size, the skins of those types of fur are divided, in which there is a significant difference in size depending on age variability and gender. As a rule, semi-finished fur products are divided into three (rarely four) categories: small, medium, large, and especially large. The size of the skin is determined by measuring its length (from between the eyes to the root of the tail), width (along the midline) and multiplying these values.
The type of skin reflects the condition of the hair of the semi-finished product, depending on the season of fur-bearing animals. A fur grade is understood as a set of certain commercial characteristics, depending on the degree of development of the hair of the skin. The commercial characteristics that define the variety are splendor, density, length and softness of the hair. Furs are divided into two and three grades. The first grade includes full-haired skins, with high, frequent awns, and thick down; to the second - less full-haired skins, with underdeveloped awns and down; to the third - semi-hairy skins with not fully developed awns and down. The skins of some types of fur are of the highest grade (extra).
The skins of those types of fur (squirrel, mink, marten, sable, silver-black fox, etc.) in which the variability of the hair coat is highly pronounced are divided by color. Color variability is especially pronounced in mink, nutria, and cage-bred blue fox.
Depending on the presence and size of defects, the skins of most types of fur are divided into three or four groups of defects. GOST establishes the indicator and size of the defect.
The sorting of semi-finished winter fur products is similar to the sorting of furs, but they do not have a division into ridges. The skins of cats, dogs, and rabbits are divided by size, color, grade and group of defects.
Skins of spring types of semi-finished fur products are divided by age groups, size, color, hair type, varieties and groups of defects.
Sorting of astrakhan-merlushka semi-finished product also differs from sorting of furs. In sheep of these breeds, age-related variability in hair coat is highly pronounced. The most valuable are the skins of lambs of the Karakul breed, less valuable are the skins of the Smushkov and Merlushka breeds. Astrakhan fur skins are sorted by age, color, size, grades and groups of defects. The variety is determined taking into account the shape and type of curls, their location over the area of the skin, silkiness, shine and thickness of the hair. Black dyed astrakhan is divided by variety (purebred into 29 varieties-brands, with a letter designation, mestizo - into 18 varieties), by groups (depending on defects) and by size (large, medium, small). The grade of fur coat sheepskin is determined depending on the significance and number of defects. There are two subgroups of the main defects of sheepskin: those measured linearly (seams, breaks, hair clips) and those measured by area (holes, bald spots, group clips, worn out places). Dressed, sheared, dyed and treated sheepskin is divided into two grades and five groups of defects.
Sorting of fur goods consists of dividing them by size, grade, group of defects, colors and ridges (if this is typical for semi-finished fur products).
Fur outerwear is divided by size and height. To do this, measure the width of the product with a soft meter at the level of the armhole under the sleeve from the middle of the back to the edge of the left side, putting the product on a mannequin or folding it in half in the center of the back. The result is true to size, but a deviation of no more than 1 cm is possible if the model does not provide large allowances for a loose fit. The height (length) of the product is measured in the middle of the back from the seam of the collar inset to the edge of the bottom.
The type of fur product is determined depending on the furiness, thickness, shine, and silkiness of the hair. It must correspond to the grade of the semi-finished product from which the product is made. Typically, finished products are divided into 2-3 grades. The description of the variety is given in GOST standards for fur products.
When determining the group of defects, defects of the skin tissue and hair are taken into account. The first group includes products without defects, the second, etc. - products with defects of various sizes in accordance with GOST. Products with defects in furrier-sewing production are returned to the manufacturer to correct the defects.
Division by ridges and colors is carried out similarly to semi-finished fur products.
Quality indicators of semi-finished fur products
Products of the fur industry (dressed fur skins, fur clothing, fur hats, collars, fur carpets) are subject to mandatory certification to determine compliance with the indicators established by the standards for each type of skin. When certifying fur products, they check the compliance of fur pelts with the requirements of standards for pelts, and also identify fur products for compliance with the requirements of standards for homogeneous groups of products in terms of furrier and sewing work. The certificate is issued for fur products that meet the requirements of the standards for the condition of the hair and permissible defects of the hair and leather tissue.
During certification tests, the following indicators are determined: pH of the aqueous extract; welding temperature of leather fabric; color fastness of hair or leather fabric to dry friction (for dyed skins); breaking load; mass fraction of unbound fatty substances in skin tissue and hair; lightfastness of color.
The first three indicators are determined without fail, the remaining indicators are assigned for testing in cases where the organoleptic assessment of the quality of hair or leather tissue raises doubts among the expert.
The welding temperature is a quantitative characteristic of the resistance of leather fabric to heat. At a temperature determined for each type of fur semi-finished product (Arctic fox - 55°C, Red fox - 65°C, Rabbit - 65°C, Sheepskin fur - 70°C, Sheepskin fur - 80°C) there is a sharp decrease in the length of the test sample . The indicator characterizes the degree of tanning of the skins. The higher the welding temperature, the better the performance properties of fur skins, but the lower their ductility.
Requirements for the quality of fur goods
The basic requirements for the quality of fur products depend on their purpose. There are completely different requirements for sheepskin coats than for mink coats. Consumer requirements for fur are determined primarily by its performance properties. Furs must protect the human body from unfavorable external conditions, have sufficient durability (durability) during use, retain their properties for a long time, meet hygiene requirements, meet the strength and energy capabilities of a person, have high aesthetic properties corresponding to the modern trend of fashion and have certain properties necessary for furrier-sewing processes.
Fur products are manufactured in accordance with the technical description of the models. The parts must be smooth and symmetrically located. Special attention paid to the selection of skins according to shade, height of hair, its shine, thickness of leather tissue, which should be the same in one product. The lining should be in harmony with the fur top of the product, the threads used to make the seams should match the color of the leather fabric. Catching hair in the seam, omissions and cuts are unacceptable. The hair must be combed, cleaned of dust, grease, etc. The presence of unbound dye on the hair and leather fabric of a dyed semi-finished product is not allowed. The leather fabric of the product should be soft and flexible and should not “rattle”.
Main defects of semi-finished fur products are: broken guards (broken and frayed ends of guide and guard hairs); worn out places; hair snatches (for shorn skins); leather fabric snatches; hair burn (areas with curled ends of guard hairs); breaks (damage to skin tissue due to rupture of the epidermis and papillary layer); stitching (thinning sections of leather tissue until the bulbs are exposed); through hair (hair loss as a result of cutting the hair follicle during fleshing; hair loss (hair loss due to
weakening the connection between hair and skin tissue); hair color (fading during use and storage); seams (due to removal of defects).
Defects of fur products: mismatch of longitudinal and transverse seams; poor selection of skins based on hair quality; incorrect placement of skins on cut pieces; lack of a smooth transition in color from one skin to another; poor selection of inserts on the skins; heterogeneity of skins in size and thickness of leather tissue; seams that stand out noticeably from the hairline; pulling hair into seams; skipping stitches; curvature of seams; distortion of parts; hair contamination, etc.
The marking of fur products must contain the following information: name of the manufacturer; name of the product and type of fur from which it is made; size; style; variety; group of vices; price; GOST number; release date. Fur outerwear is marked using a cardboard label attached to the loop of the product and a textile tape sewn into the seam of the left side indicating the necessary information about the product. Fur collars are marked with a stamp on the leather fabric indicating all the data about the product and its area. For collars made from valuable types of fur, cardboard labels with all the details are provided. Hats are also marked using a cardboard label with complete information, a trademark printed in the center of the lining and textile tape sewn into the seam of the crown indicating the necessary data. The cardboard label of all products must be sealed.
Fur products are divided according to their functional purpose into the following groups:
Fur outerwear;
Fur parts for clothes with a top made of leather, fabrics;
Fur women's clothing;
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Fur hats;
Fur haberdashery;
Fur shoes;
Household fur products;
Plates and bellows.
According to the gender and age of consumers, individual groups of goods are divided into subgroups: - women's;
Men's;
- children's room
In subgroups, products are classified by types, styles, and sizes.
Fur outerwear
Range women's fur outerwear consists of and; coat (greater coverage, wide armholes and no fasteners), coat (112-120 cm), short coat (80-100 cm) and jacket! (65-75 cm), jackets. Types of fur outerwear differ in length, which varies depending on fashion. Women's fur outerwear is made in nine sizes (from 8 to 120) and five heights.
Products are produced in a variety of styles, they can be single-breasted, double-breasted, semi-fitting, close-fitting, straight, flared from the waist, from the top, etc. The design of outerwear does not depend on the style, and the cut consists of a waist (back, floors, bottom - hem), collar, two sleeves. The sleeves are cut from the upper and lower halves, the upper one has a shoulder and an armhole. The following semi-finished products are used for women's outerwear: astrakhan fur, astrakhan fur, goat, opoek, cat, dog, rabbit of various imitations, whiting, moiret, ov-, chin, sheared, dyed fur, sable, mink, squirrel, seal, muskrat, polecat, opossum, marmot, fox, white and blue arctic fox, etc. Plucked skins of mink, muskrat, beaver, as well as semi-finished fur products dyed in bright colors are very popular. It is possible to combine different types of fur in one product: mink
and chinchilla, mink and sable, broadtail and arctic fox, muskrat and pecan (North American marten), etc.
Modern models of fur outerwear should be lightweight and have good drape. Depending on the style and fashion, skins are placed in products in different ways. All cut and epilated skins are positioned so that the hairline goes from bottom to top and the hair can be combed. Long-haired types of fur are selected in such a way that the hair is directed from top to bottom. Often the skins are arranged in a transverse direction, in a herringbone or screw pattern.
Simple and complex cutting methods are used. Products simple methods the cuttings are subsequently easily restored, but when unraveling or joining, this is almost impossible to do. Cutting semi-finished fur is widely used, imitating complex cutting methods. The main trends in modeling are the combination of fur with textile materials, the use of semi-finished products with double-sided finishing, obtaining the effect of a knitted wool texture in a fur product, which is achieved using unconventional technologies that involve cutting the skins into narrow strips and making fur “knitwear” from this “yarn.”
Numerous speeches by animal activists led to the emergence of a fashion for coats made of fabric or leather lined with fur from valuable types of fur.
Range top men's fur clothing has less variety. The most common are coats, short coats, jackets and jackets made of sheepskin, dog skins, foal skins, opka, whiting, and seals. Vests are made from sheared and dyed sheepskin, goat, whiting, and marmot with a fabric or leather top. Men's outerwear is made in nine sizes (from 88 to 120) and six heights. Recently, men's coats and short coats made from mink skins have become popular.
Range children's fur outerwear includes coats, jackets, jackets, the styles of which depend on the age group. Children's fur clothing is made from cheap
Fur products
types of furs and semi-finished fur products with low weight and high heat-shielding properties (goat, rabbit, webbing, sheepskin).
The clothes are intended for three age groups: nursery and preschool, junior school, senior school.
Products of the first group for boys and girls are almost the same in style. Mostly coats are sewn with a straight or widened silhouette. For girls, semi-finished fur products are used in light colors, for boys - in darker colors. Coats for girls of school age are produced in straight, semi-fitted and extended silhouettes, single-breasted or double-breasted, with set-in sleeves, raglan sleeves, with combined yoke sleeves, with collars of various styles - stand-up, round, shawl, in the form of a hood, scarf, etc. .
Fur outerwear for children of the nursery and preschool age groups is available in three sizes (48, 52.56); for girls and boys of the junior school age group - four sizes (60, 64, 68, 72) and two heights; for girls and boys of the senior school group - three sizes (76, 80, 84) and two heights.
Fur outerwear for women, men and children is produced in accordance with GOST 8765-93 "Fur and combined clothing. General technical conditions" and GOST 28503-90 "Clothing with fur lining. General technical conditions."
Fur part of clothing
The fur part of the clothing consists of collars, cuffs, trim, and fur lining. Fur collars are divided according to sex and age groups of consumers, styles, sizes, colors, varieties and defectiveness groups. Collar styles are very diverse and depend on fashion (shawl, straight, stand-up). For women's collars, semi-finished fur products of almost all types are used; for men's - skins of beaver, astrakhan fur, mink, seal, foal, smushka, rabbit, sheared dyed sheepskin, etc. Children's collars are made from cheap types of fur.
but semi-finished fur products - rabbit, squirrel, merlushka, sheared dyed sheepskin. The lining for the hoods of jackets is made from long-haired species of fur - arctic fox, fox, raccoon, etc.
Fur lining for winter coats and jackets is made from sheepskin and fur coats, rabbit, astrakhan fur, fox paws and souls, and furrier's rags.
Women's fur dresses
The assortment of this product group is intended exclusively for women and consists of capes, half-pelerines, stoles, scarves, scarves, flat and tubular gorgets.
Drapes are sleeveless capes that are made from valuable types of fur - mink, squirrel, sable, marten, kolinsky, ermine, silver-black fox, arctic fox, muskrat, broadtail, chinchilla, etc. When sewing, complex cutting methods are used - transfer, jointing, dissolution. Tails from skins are often sewn along the lower edge of drape. The half cape resembles a large removable collar made of valuable types of fur.
Recently popular stoles are wide (30-50 cm) and long (200-250 cm) scarves made from the skins of sable, marten, mink, chinchilla, ermine, squirrel, and broadtail lined with silk. It is customary to throw stoles over the shoulders. To decorate these products, braid, rhinestones, cords, appliqués made of silk, leather, and lace frills are used. Tails from skins are often sewn onto the ends of stoles. Interesting models of stoles made of fur “knitwear”, knitted from strips of mink and rabbit fur using a special technology.
Gorgets are made round from uncut skins with the head, paws and tail of the animal, or flat, spread out on a silk lining. Flat gorgets are sewn open and have a somewhat rounded shape. The range of semi-finished fur products is small - fox, arctic fox, marten, sable. Arctic fox skins are sometimes embroidered lengthwise, as a result of which they become longer, but the quality of the hair is not reduced.
Fur products
Women's fur headwear is produced in accordance with GOST 10151-75 "Women's fur headwear. General technical conditions."
Fur hats
The range of fur hats is quite large. They produce men's, women's and children's hats. The size is determined by the circumference along the inside of the bottom side. Sizes of hats for men - from 54 to 63; for women - from 54 to 62; for teenagers - from 54 to 58; for children - from 49 to 55. There are all-fur and combined hats - with a top made of fabric or leather. The main parts of fur hats are the following: cap (fur, leather, fabric), crown (fabric lining), covering on the crown (cotton wadding sheets, modern non-woven materials). "
The styles of women's hats change quite often in accordance with fashion (hat with a brim, “fantasy”, tok, beret, boyarka, hood, ball, etc.). The skins of arctic fox, fox, sable, marten, nutria, ermine, otter, rabbit, squirrel, astrakhan fur, astrakhan fur, seal, sheepskin, etc. are used for them. Modern fashion For fur hats, he prefers soft shapes that easily drape and transform on the head. Models of traditional classic styles are distinguished by lightness, elegance, small volume, and functionality. New design techniques are used to create volume through construction seams and darts instead of traditional molding. New frame cushioning materials with a mesh structure are used, which give traditional models (tok, boyarka, kubanka, turban) the necessary dimensional stability, lightness and grace.
The assortment of men's hats is more stable (boyarka, Moscow, gogol, earflap hat, papakha, kubanka, sports, Olympic, Leningrad). Men's hats are made from short-haired types of fur semi-finished products: astrakhan fur, smushka, whiting, skins of sea animals, calf, foal, rabbit, sheepskin, as well as mink and sable.
Fur hats must be produced in accordance with GOST 10325-79 "Fur hats. General technical conditions."
Fur haberdashery
This product group includes the following types products: gloves and mittens lined with fur, muffs, bags made of fur or with fur parts, small decorations made of fur - brooches, hair clips, etc. For the manufacture of haberdashery, furriers' scraps of valuable types of fur, defective rabbit skins, whiting, straps, minks.
Household fur products
Currently, this product group is becoming more and more important, as products for interior decoration made of fur and fur have become fashionable. Carpets are made from the skins of large animals - bear, leopard, zebra.
Exclusive blankets and bedspreads are made from mink, lynx, and sable skins on a silk lining. Furniture covers and pillows are made from sheepskin fur.
Sheepskin and fur products
Products made from fur sheepskin without lining with leather fabric facing outwards are called headwear (sheepskin-fur). These products have always been traditional for Russia and common in rural areas. The range of sheepskin and fur products has expanded in the last 30 years due to the use of fur velor and film-coated sheepskin. Fur outerwear made from these materials with modern finishes and called sheepskin coats in everyday life has become very popular among consumers due to its high heat-protective properties, wear resistance, relatively low cost and a huge variety of models. Modern technologies fur dyeing
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semi-finished products allow you to give the skins spectacular, bright shades, which are also resistant to friction and light. Products made from fur velor are often trimmed with the fur of long-haired Mongolian sheepskin, arctic fox, fox, mink, leather decoration is used, and original fittings are used. Outerwear made of fur velor and sheepskin coated with film, currently sold on the Russian market, is mainly imported (Turkey, Italy, Spain, China), although in recent years domestic brands have also appeared: “Zetta” (g . Moscow), "Melita" (Kazan), "Otrada" (Samara), "Kalinka" (Kirov), "Marital" (Yoshkar-Ola).
Sheepskin and fur products are divided according to the gender and age of consumers: men's, women's and children's; by type: sheepskin coats, short fur coats, jackets, coats, short coats, jackets, vests; and also in size.
Coats, short coats and jackets for men are produced in nine sizes (from 88 to 120), six heights.
Women's coats and short coats are also produced in nine sizes (from 88 to 120), five heights.
Outerwear made from sheepskin and fur velor for boys and girls, it is produced in nine sizes (from 60 to 92), in two heights.
Products made from fur coat sheepskin and fur velor must be manufactured in accordance with GOST 5710-85 "Clothing made from fur coat sheepskin and fur velor. General technical conditions."
Related information.
