Cleaning bricks from cement, limescale and salt, paint. Natural stone in your home: cleaning and care How to remove glue from natural stone

29.10.202027.05.2017

Despite its strength, stone is a very delicate material and requires care. This article provides recommendations for cleaning natural stone surfaces - how and what to wash it with. Even the types of stains are classified, because the choice of household chemicals depends on this.

General care

Place any glasses, especially those containing alcoholic beverages or citrus juice, on trays. Many drinks and foods contain acid that can corrode or discolor stone surfaces. Place hot dishes not on a stone surface, but on special mats. Place mats or napkins under porcelain, ceramic, or silver items that may scratch the surface.

FLOOR SURFACES
Sweep the floors with a dry, untreated mop or broom. Sand, dirt and abrasive particles cause the greatest damage to stone surfaces due to their abrasive ability. Rugs and mats on both sides of the main entrance will help minimize the entry of sand, dirt and abrasive particles onto the floor that can scratch the stone floor, as long as the bottom of the mat is non-slip. Eight steps is usually enough to remove all the sand or dirt from the bottom of your shoes. Do not use used vacuum cleaners, as their plastic or metal wheels and attachments may also scratch the surface.

OTHER SURFACES
Clean stone surfaces using a few drops of cleaner, stone soap (available at hardware stores or from a stone slab supplier) or mild liquid dish detergent and warm water. To receive best results You need a clean cloth mop to wipe the floor and a soft cloth to clean other surfaces. Excessive detergent or soap may leave streaks. Do not use products containing citric, acetic or other acids on marble or limestone slabs. After cleaning, rinse the surface thoroughly with soapy water and dry with a soft cloth. Change the water frequently and do not use detergent powders or creams, as they contain abrasive substances that can scratch the surface.

BATHROOM AND OTHER WET SURFACES
In the bathroom or other wet areas, soap scum can be minimized by wiping the surface rubber brush. To remove scum, use an acid-free scum remover or a water-based ammonia solution, although the stone surface may fade if ammonia is used too often.

WORKING SURFACES
For work surfaces, a primer varnish may be needed. To prevent water marks from remaining, you need to treat the surface with non-yellowing wax in the form of a paste.

KITCHEN AREA
Here you may have to use a sealing compound or primer varnish that does not contain toxic components. Always consult the manufacturer.

COVERED Patio AND POOL AREA
In pool, patio or hot tub areas, rinse the surface with clean water and use a mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss.

Properties of the stone

Natural stone comes in two types depending on its composition: siliceous or lime. Knowing the different properties of these stones is important when choosing cleaning products. Siliceous stone is mainly composed of silicon and quartz particles, is wear-resistant and can be easily cleaned with mild acidic cleaning solutions. Siliceous stones include granite, sandstone, quartzite, slate, ferruginous sandstone, and bluish sandstone (mica schist).

Limestone consists primarily of calcium carbonate. It cannot be washed with solutions containing acid, so it should be cleaned with products other than siliceous stone. Typical limestones are marble, travertine, limestone and onyx. A simple acid sensitivity test will help determine the type of stone. You will need 120 g of 10% hydrochloric acid solution or vinegar and a pipette. Since such an analysis can corrode the stone, perform this experiment on some remaining fragment. Apply a few drops of the acid solution to the surface of the stone. If the stone is calcareous, droplets of acid will begin to bubble or fizz. If no noticeable reaction occurs, then you are dealing with siliceous stone. Hydrochloric acid is a dangerous substance, so it is necessary to protect the surface of the skin from accidental contact.

Find out your stone

Granites and marbles are mined in different parts world and come in different color shades and with different mineral compositions. In most cases, marbles and granites can be identified by visible particles on the surface of the stone. Marble usually shows "veins", or a high concentration of minerals. In granite, minerals are usually visible as small specks evenly distributed across the surface of the stone. Each stone has a unique color, texture and mottling.

Sandstones differ greatly in color, due to the fact that the stone may contain various minerals and clays. Shades can vary from light gray to yellow or reddish. The dark red-brown sandstone is also called ferruginous sandstone. Bluish sandstone is a dense and hard stone with fine grains of greenish-gray or bluish-gray color.

Limestone- a stone widely used in construction with light gray, dark yellow or light brown shades. Feature many limestones - the presence of fossil remains in them, often visible on the surface of the stone. Slate comes in dark green, black, grey, dark red or multi-colored. It is most commonly used to make floor slabs, roofing tiles and has a distinct lobular texture.

Stone finishing

Polishing allows you to achieve a shiny surface that reflects light and emphasizes the color and texture of the material. Similar finishes are used for walls, furniture and floor tiles.

Polished texture- This is a smooth, satin surface that reflects light relatively poorly. Overall, the honed finish is ideal for floors, stair treads, porch steps, and other high-traffic areas where the polish can quickly dull. Polished texture is also used in furniture and for finishing other surfaces. Fire finish is a rough textured surface often seen on granite floor slabs.

Stains

SPILLS AND STAINS
Immediately blot up any spilled liquid with a paper towel. Do not rub this area as this will only spread the spilled liquid. Wash the area several times with plain water and mild soap. Dry thoroughly with a soft cloth. Repeat the procedure if necessary. If the stain remains, refer to the stain removal section.

STAIN REMOVAL
Identifying the type of stain on the stone surface is the key to removing it. If you don't understand what's causing the pollution, try playing detective. Where is the stain located: near a plant, a food preparation area, or a bedroom where cosmetics are used frequently? What color is the spot? What shape or pattern is it? What happens in the area around the spot? Surface stains are often easily removed with a cleaning product or household chemicals. Stains that are deeply embedded in the texture of the stone or cannot be cleaned with conventional cleaning products may require special sealants or professional intervention.

Types of stains and the first steps to remove them

OIL BASED (FAT, TAR, BUTTER, MILK, COSMETICS)
An oil stain causes the stone to darken and is usually dissolved with chemicals and then washed away. Gently wash the area with a mild, liquid cleaner containing bleach or household detergent, ammonia, lacquer thinner, or acetone.

ORGANICS (COFFEE, TEA, FRUIT, TOBACCO, PAPER, FOOD, URINE, LEAVES, BARK, BIRD LOODS)
Usually results in a pinkish-brown spot, but it may disappear once the source is eliminated. Regular rain and sun will whiten and remove such stains on the street. In the room, you need to treat the stain with a 12% solution of hydrogen peroxide, and also drop a few drops of ammonia on it.

METAL (IRON, RUST, COPPER, BRONZE) Rust stains range in color from orange to brownish. They can take the form of sources of contamination such as bolts, screws, tin cans, flower pots, metal fittings, etc. Copper-bronze stains have a greenish or dirty brown tint and are caused by exposure of nearby copper, bronze or brass products. Metal stains must be removed using a special putty or stain removal paste. It is extremely difficult to remove deeply ingrained rust.

BIOLOGICAL FORMATIONS (ALGAE, POWDERY MILDEW, LICHENS, MOSS, FUNGI)
Rinse with a solution (half a cup per 3.5-4 liters of water) of ammonia, or bleach, or hydrogen peroxide. Do not mix bleach with ammonia! When they combine, a toxic and deadly gas is formed.

INK (FELT PEN, BALLPOINT OR INK PEN)
Wash with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light-colored stones only!) or lacquer thinner or acetone (dark-colored stones only!).

PAINT Small amounts can be removed with lacquer thinner or gently scraped off with a razor blade. Thick layers of paint can only be removed with a commercial paint stripper solution, which can be purchased at a hardware store. These solutions usually contain caustic soda or lye. Do not use acids to remove paint from stone. Paint stripping solutions can corrode the surface of the stone, requiring re-polishing. Follow the manufacturer's instructions and remember to rinse the stained area thoroughly with clean water. Protect your hands with rubber gloves and your eyes with special goggles and work in a well-ventilated area. Use only wooden or plastic scrapers to remove tar or paint clumps. Typically, emulsion and acrylic paints do not cause surface contamination. Oil stains can appear when using oil paints, linseed oil, mastic, sealants and sealants.

DROPS AND RINGS OF WATER (SURFACE ACCUMULATION OF HARD WATER)
Polish with a dry iron brush.

FIRE AND SMOKE DAMAGE
Older stones and fireplaces with signs of smoke or fire may require more thorough cleaning to restore the original surface. Commercially available smoke removal products can save time and effort.

TRACES OF CORROSION
They can be caused by acid remaining on the surface of the stone. Some materials may corrode the coating but not leave stains. Others corrode and stain the surface. After removing the stain, rinse the surface with clean water and apply polishing powder, available at a hardware store, to the marble. Rub the powder into the stone with a damp cloth. Polish until the mark disappears and the marble surface begins to shine again. Any marks that you cannot remove should be treated and removed by a professional polisher.

EFFLORESCENCE
Efflorescence refers to a white powder that can appear on the surface of a stone under the influence of water containing mineral salts seeping from under the surface of the stone. Water passes through the fibers of the stone and then evaporates. When it evaporates, it leaves a powdery substance. If the slabs have been laid recently, wipe the area with a mop or remove the powder with a vacuum cleaner. You may need to do this process several times as the stone dries. Don't try to wash the powder off with water because it will only disappear for a while and then come out again.

SCRATCHES AND CRACKS
Small surface scratches can be removed with a dry iron brush. Deeper scratches and cracks on the surface of the stone should be repaired by a professional who will restore the polish.

Putties or pastes: how to use them

Putty is a liquid cleaning agent or chemical mixed with a white absorbent material. The result is a paste about the same consistency as peanut butter. A layer of paste 0.6-1.2 cm thick is applied to the contaminated surface with a wooden or plastic spatula. Then this area should be covered with plastic and left for 24-48 hours. The liquid cleaner or chemical will draw the stain into the absorbent material. This procedure may need to be repeated several times to completely remove the stain.

Materials for stain remover

These include kaolin, fulling clay, whitewash, diatomaceous earth, ground chalk, molding plaster or talc. On square meter you need about four kilograms of stain remover paste. Do not mix whitewash or fulling (iron) clay with acidic chemicals, otherwise they will react and the effect of removing stains will be negated.

Cleaning products or household chemicals

OIL STAINS
Requires an aqueous solution of soda (sodium bicarbonate) or one of the powdered putty substances and varnish thinner.

ORGANIC POLLUTANTS
Cover the stain with one of the powder paste materials and treat with a 12% hydrogen peroxide solution or replace the hydrogen peroxide with acetone.

RUST
Cover the stain with diatomaceous earth and a commercial rust remover. Rust stains are difficult to remove and you may need to call in a professional service.

TRACES OF COPPER
Cover these areas with one of the powdery, paste-like materials and add a drop of ammonia.

BIOLOGICAL FORMATIONS
Apply a solution of ammonia, or bleach, or hydrogen peroxide. Do not mix bleach with ammonia.

Prepare the putty.

If you are using a powder, stir the cleaner or household chemicals until the consistency of a thick paste. If you use paper, soak it in a chemical solution and let it dry, do not apply it in liquid form. Rinse the affected area with distilled water. Apply a layer of putty 0.6 to 1.2 cm thick: you should cover the stain and coat the surface around it at a distance of 2.5 cm from the stain. Spread the paste evenly with a wooden or plastic scraper. Cover the putty with plastic and seal the edges with duct tape. Leave the putty to dry for 24-48 hours. As the stain dries, it will be pulled out of the stone and into the putty material. After about a day, remove the plastic and let the putty dry further. Then you need to carefully remove the putty from the stain, rinse the area with clean water and wipe with a dry soft cloth. If necessary, use a wooden or plastic scraper. Repeat this process up to five times until the stain is gone. If the surface is corroded by a chemical reagent, apply polishing powder and rub with a jute cloth.

The most common and very unpleasant contaminants that spoil the aesthetic appearance are: cement deposits, the appearance of salt, the appearance limescale on the facade or fence. Moreover, this does not depend on time - plaque can appear almost after laying or during brick laying. Often, efflorescence forms white, hardened smudges that can increase in size every day.

Unscrupulous builders try as much as possible to hide or disguise defects; unfortunately, their actions are temporary and in 99% of cases, plaque and drips appear again. This is explained by the fact that by removing the efflorescence itself, we are fighting not the cause, but the effect.

What is the cause of efflorescence?

There are three main types of efflorescence:

Calcareous efflorescence appears in the form of hard, fairly thick deposits.
Lime stains appear in thin layers in the form of dusty deposits that are quite soft to the touch.
Lime efflorescence in the form of crystals of insoluble and soluble salts.

When do efflorescences form?

In a fresh mixture (primary efflorescence). With a porous mixture, OH and Ca ions move outward with the help of residual moisture, where they combine with CO2 in humid air (deposits form on the surface).
In the hardened mixture (secondary efflorescence). Water from precipitation, groundwater, and condensed moisture penetrates into the brickwork, thereby dissolving the salts of various chemical elements, including calcium. In warm, dry weather, the salt solution rushes to the surface of the masonry. The water evaporates, leaving salt crystals on the wall in the form of a white coating.

What accelerates and makes possible the appearance of limescale efflorescence?

High Water/Cement ratio.
Insufficient mixing of the masonry mixture.
A large amount of Ca(OH) 2 (calcium salts) and other foreign salts in mixtures.
Insufficient content of binder (cement) in masonry mixtures (increasing porosity and, accordingly, water permeability).
Poor seam care – incorrect seam profile.
Poorly prepared mixture - movement of water and lime.
Filler not washed from impurities
Filler of uncontrolled composition and quality.
The water is highly chlorinated, containing salt or other foreign substances, which contributes to prolonged drying.
Filling joints with mortar after precipitation until the base is completely dry.
Drying of cement mixtures too quickly.

How to clean cement deposits and efflorescence

Many people, when faced with such a phenomenon, panic and partly they are right, is this how they imagined their house or fence during construction. But don’t panic, this is all quite easy to solve.

There are two ways:

Calling a cleaning company that cleans stone;
Clean it yourself.

What do we need for cleaning?

Soap for natural stone. Exactly for stone, do not confuse it with ordinary detergents.
Cement and salt removal agent;
A stone scraper and a small spatula, for cleaning heavily ingrained and hardened areas;
Wire brush and regular brush;
Grinder with a metal brush (recommended to be used only as a last resort, for severely ingrained dirt that a metal brush cannot remove).

Let's start cleaning

The first thing we must do is wash off all non-surface dust and dirt. To do this, we dilute the soap concentrate for natural stone in water, in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer, and thoroughly wash the brick surface with the resulting solution using a regular brush. And rinse thoroughly with water. At the first stage, it is not recommended to overfill the stone with water so that it dries faster.
We dilute the cleaning agent concentrate in the recommended proportion and apply it to the surface with a brush and use circular movements (the direction does not matter) to clean the surface. Leave for 5-10 minutes. And rinse thoroughly with water.
After completing the first two steps, you will immediately notice the cleaning effect, but areas with heavily ingrained dirt will also begin to stand out. To deal with them, pour the undiluted concentrate into a small container and apply it to the contaminated areas with a brush. When applied there will be chemical reaction and the concentrate on cement and salt contaminants will foam, but don’t be alarmed by this, this is how it should be. Give it 5-10 minutes and begin rough cleaning using a scraper and, if necessary, a metal brush. And rinse thoroughly with water. Let it dry and repeat until the surface is completely clean.
The main thing is to rinse thoroughly with water after complete cleaning, as chemicals can leave a white residue.

How to protect brick from efflorescence and plaque

There are two types of protection:

Transparent impregnation for stone. Apply to the surface with a brush 1-2 times. Creates a protective layer on the surface that does not allow water to pass through and counteracts subsequent deep contamination.
Impregnation with color enhancement and wet effect. The most in demand and popular at the moment. Creates a protective layer and gives the stone a rich color.

The final stage of construction and repair work is cleaning the surfaces of buildings and structures, construction equipment, formwork and tools from hardened remains of concrete and cement mortar.

A chemical cement cleaner can effectively, accurately and quickly remove the remains of dried building material, softening even the oldest cement to an amorphous (crumbling) state.

Operating principle

Retail chains offer various options concrete cleaners, however, almost all substances are a solution of hydrochloric or sulfuric acid of a certain concentration. When the product is applied to a contaminated surface, the acid enters into a chemical reaction with the cement.

The result of the chemical reaction is the softening of the contamination to a state where it can be cleaned off with any suitable tool or washed off with water. In addition, the acid cement cleaner includes the following auxiliary components:

Corrosion inhibitor (protection) of metals and coatings.
Substances that accelerate the process of converting concrete into an amorphous mass.

On sale you can find concentrated and ready-to-use (diluted in a certain proportion with water) cleaners. Considering the different nature and degree of contamination, it is best to purchase concentrated versions and dilute them with water yourself, following the following recommendations:

Very old stains should be “softened” and cleaned with a concentrated solution as supplied.
Fresh concrete and mortar will be removed by a product diluted in a ratio of 1 part cleaner to three parts water.
Cement laitance deposits are removed with a mixture of concentrate and water in a ratio of 1:5.
The surfaces of equipment and tools can be easily washed with a 1:10 solution with the addition of a small amount liquid soap or dish detergent.

In any case, you should follow the instructions for use of the manufacturer of the product and, in order to avoid discoloration or damage to the surface being cleaned, try the substance on small area.

Rules for working with the cleaner

Considering that when exposed to exposed skin, concentrates and solutions of sulfuric and hydrochloric acid cause severe, difficult to heal chemical burns, and also emit toxic substances, when working with cement cleaner, you should adhere to the following basic rules:

It is mandatory to use personal protective equipment: rubber gloves, goggles and a respirator.
Apply the substance to the surface with an acid-inert material, for example a paint brush with artificial (plastic) bristles.
Wash off the reaction products with plenty of water, preferably with a hose or washing machine.
Do not allow product to come into contact with clothing, shoes and plants.
Upon completion of work, thoroughly ventilate the premises.

Review of popular grout cleaners

Lugato ZementschleierEntferner – Lugato is a cement cleaner based on amidosulfonic acid. Designed for removing cement and limescale from earthenware sanitary ware, unglazed ceramics and chrome-plated products. Recommended as an effective cleaner of cement from tiles after sealing and grouting tile joints. The product cannot be used to clean surfaces that react with acids. It is not recommended to treat marble and terrazzo. Packaging: 1 and 5 liter plastic canisters.
Cement cleaner Barracuda 10K.Concentrated detergent based on synthetic acid. The most effective type of broad-spectrum cleaner. The product can be used to clean wood, glass, ceramic, brick, metal and plastic substrates. Barracuda 10K is successfully used to remove contaminants from the surface of tools and concrete mixers, swimming pool bowls and pouring molds. Allowed to work in conditions low temperatures. Packaging: 1 and 10 liter cans, 200 liter barrels.
Mapei Keranet Organic acid based cement cleaner. Can be used both outside and inside buildings and structures. It is characterized as an effective cleaner of facades from cement, efflorescence, limescale and other contaminants. Recommended for removing traces of cement from surfaces: ceramic tiles, mosaics, terracotta tiles and natural stone (except marble and other materials containing calcite). Before using keranet acidic grout and cement cleaner, make sure that the surface to be cleaned is inert to its base. Available in the form of a concentrated powder and 15% aqueous emulsion (ready solution). Packaging: 1 and 5 kg containers for powder and 1, 5, 10, and 25 kg containers for the finished solution.
Cement remover for paving stones CMM(oak). An effective concentrated solvent for tough salt deposits, cement and corrosion based on a mixture of inorganic acids. Scope of application – removal of contaminants from the surface: granite, tiles, plastic, ceramics, basalt and sanitary ware. Packaging: 5 and 10 liter plastic canisters.
Acid cleaner Litoclean Plus.Ready-to-use product for removing cement residues from the surface of ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware. Does not produce toxic fumes. Packing: 1 liter plastic canisters.
Himfrez(“Mite Himfrez”). Does not contain hydrofluoric acid, hydrochloric acid or acetic acid. Can be used to clean ceramics, glass, brick and decorative surfaces. Increases the adhesion of penetrating waterproofing compounds to the treated base. Does not destroy the structure of the base made of artificial stone, concrete and brick. Packaging: 5 and 10 liter canisters, containers with a volume of 1 m3.

DIY chemical cleaner

Considering the high cost of “factory” products, it makes sense to make a concrete cleaner at home by dissolving industrial sulfuric acid with water in a ratio of 1:10. Technical sulfuric acid is widely used in the preparation of electrolyte for acid car batteries.

Therefore, it can be purchased freely on the hardware market or in an online store of automotive accessories and consumable fluids.

A homemade sulfuric acid-based cleaner is not suitable for all surfaces. Sand-lime brick, marble and other materials containing calcite cannot be treated with such means. At the same time, they can effectively remove cement from red and ceramic bricks, sanitaryware, quartz glass and other surfaces inert to sulfuric acid.

Natural stone that you bought to decorate your home or elegantly decorate your office is an investment for for many years, which will help create an atmosphere of comfort and coziness, so important for both relaxation and productive work. It is important to remember that a stone is natural material who requires appropriate care. Simple and easy maintenance procedures will help you preserve its beauty for a long time.

Following simple precautions will help you avoid many unpleasant problems. Use coasters for glasses, especially if they contain alcohol or citrus juice. The fact is that many quite ordinary foods and juices contain acids, the effect of which on a polished stone surface can be negative.

Coasters will also come in handy for a variety of hot items, such as plates or frying pans. Also try to place napkins under porcelain, ceramic or silverware, as well as under any other items that could scratch the surface of the stone.

Let's say the stone is still contaminated. What is the fastest and easiest way to return it to cleanliness? Let's look at a few of the most typical situations.

When cleaning floors, rinse the cloth frequently or change the attachment of a special mop. Dirt often contains abrasive materials, such as sand, which, when in intense contact with the surface of a granite or marble floor, can leave micro-scratches, ruining the attractive polish. Mats and rugs at the front door will help reduce the amount of dirt that gets into the room, as it usually only takes a few vigorous steps to clean the soles of shoes. Use vacuum cleaners with special care: their metal or plastic parts, and especially the wheels, can also scratch the delicate surface of the floor.

Do not use soap or gasoline-based detergents to clean stone floors; over time, they will dull the surface of the polished stone. It is much better to sweep away dry debris with a clean, dry mop, and then simply rinse the floor with hot water using a clean cotton rag. You can add a few drops of neutral detergent, special soap or mild liquid dishwashing detergent to the washing water. Special soap is no less accessible than other cleaning products - it can be purchased at hardware stores or directly from natural stone suppliers. We recommend that you refrain from using abrasive powders or pastes - these products contain abrasive particles and can scratch the surface. However, no matter what product you use, the water needs to be changed more often. Excess cleaning products or soap can leave a film or streaks on the stone surface, so do not skimp on water and wipe the floors with a dry cloth after washing.

In bathrooms and other damp areas, soap scum often forms a residue on marble tiles, which can be removed with a rubber scraper. In addition, a special, acid-free solution or an aqueous solution of ammonia (1/2 cup of ammonia per 4 liters of water) will help in solving this problem. But you should not overuse this method, since frequent use of ammonia can ultimately lead to tarnishing of the surface of the stone.

In order for your bathroom countertop to serve you for many years, continuing to delight the eye with the beauty of the clean surface of natural stone, it is recommended to treat it with a special sealant. For questions about choosing a specific product, it is better to contact the specialists who installed the countertop. In a good way Treatment with marble wax or non-yellowing car wax will prevent the formation of water stains.

The kitchen environment is very similar to the bathroom environment in terms of the degree of aggressive impact on natural stone, so measures to ensure the protection of countertops in both cases will be almost identical. But the situation with the kitchen also has its own important specifics. For example, the sealant must be non-toxic so that it can be safely used on surfaces in contact with food products. If you have any doubts about this issue, it is better to postpone stone processing and seek advice from specialists or representatives of the manufacturer of this sealant.

Remember that although before installing natural stone products, their surfaces must undergo appropriate treatment, the sealant layer must still be updated from time to time. Firstly, sooner or later it wears out, and secondly, different types of stones have different porosity, which directly affects the necessary frequency of preventive protective measures. For example, countertops made of marble or limestone are more susceptible to stains than granite, which, due to its greater resistance to external influences, is the most popular material for products decorating the bathroom or kitchen.

In outdoor pools and patio areas, natural stone should be washed with clean water, using a mild bleach to remove algae.

Let us briefly formulate the main features of cleaning natural stone.

What to do:
. Sweep the floor regularly;
. Wash the stone surface only with mild detergents or special soap for natural stone;
. After using cleaning products, rinse the surface of the stone again with clean water and wipe dry with cotton napkins;
. Do not leave the stone wet;
. Protect stone floors with non-slip mats or rugs, and countertops with wax, trivets (for hot dishes) and napkins.
...and what you should never do:
. Do not use vinegar, lemon juice or other acidic products on natural stone surfaces.
. Do not use cleaning products that contain acids, such as toilet cleaners, tile cleaners, construction cleaners, or drain cleaners.
. Do not use abrasive cleaning products - dry powders and pastes.
. Do not mix ammonia and bleach; their chemical reaction produces a deadly toxic gas.

Polished surfaces become dull over time

Very often, the facades of houses, offices and apartments are faced with natural stone. This finish is considered durable, and proper care can last for decades.

But over time, the polished surface begins to lose its shine, scratches, various stains, and cracks appear. In order for natural stone cleaning to be effective and safe, it is necessary to choose the right care products.

There are 3 different cleaning methods:

using acids and acidic compounds;
combined methods;
sandblasting.

Cleaning natural stone using acids and acidic compounds.

Cleaning natural stone using acids and acidic compounds is used only for outdoor work. The method is characterized by its low price and good results on moderately dirty surfaces (for example, residues of lime, mortar, and rust are well removed). Organic acids are used, as well as hydrochloric, phosphoric and others. The surface to be treated must be moistened generously with acid, previously diluted with water, and left for some time. After this, rinse with clean water. Use this method with extreme caution when cleaning marble and limestone.
Cleaning natural stone using alkali. Used in case of heavy contamination. Has a degreasing effect. Particularly effective for eliminating organic contaminants, traces of dirt and soot. Suitable for limestone. Should not be used to clean rust or cement stains.
Cleaning natural stone using pastes. Used to remove the following contaminants: mold, algae, moss, etc. Suitable for removing grease and oil stains, paint, resin. The method of application is to apply the paste to the surface to be treated for up to three days.

Cleaning natural stone using a combined method

Most often it is already used when the surface needs to be further cleaned by other methods. In this case, grinding is used with both mechanical abrasive and diamond tools. The main disadvantage of this method of removing contaminants is that it can cause damage to stone products.

Using sandblasting method

This type of cleaning is used only for external work. With this method, contaminated surfaces are treated with special fine sand under high pressure. It is necessary to carry out cleaning away from glass, wood and plastered surfaces, as this method can lead to damage.

always carefully read the instructions for use to avoid damage;
start cleaning the surface from dirt with a less concentrated solution and only then with a more concentrated one;
test the product on an inconspicuous area.